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Posts posted by kentyler
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- bolin, GrandpaPhil, mtaylor and 2 others
- 5
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- mtaylor and GrandpaPhil
- 2
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- GrandpaPhil, bolin, mtaylor and 1 other
- 4
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Thanks everyone for all the helpful hints.
Making a little progress
I realized that the bottom 4 sections were NOT 3/8" thick
so I printed up some new plans
and sized the bottom sections.
I keep a stock of heavy card...and i can use one layer for the bottom section
and a combination of 2 thicknesses for each of the 3 layers on top of that
The card drills like wood
after I cut out a section it separates from the plan
I'll have to be sure and write its number on it, so as not to lose track
ps
in the 2nd to last picture you can see that i'll need 3 additional 3/8's sections in order to accomodate the full rise of the bow
- mtaylor, GrandpaPhil, Baker and 1 other
- 4
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I actually was able to find a drill the right size for the bamboo skewers in my tool box
I drilled really small holes first, because on pressboard you don't get much "centering" effect from an initial punch hole
And then with a drill the size of the bamboo
I'm punching the outline of the next layer down through the paper before I do the cutting (because the paper is not glued on, when it is cut to the outline it will come off the board.
So I'll have the 2 pegs and the punch marks to guide me as I glue the layers together
- GrandpaPhil, mtaylor and Louie da fly
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- GrandpaPhil and mtaylor
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Still waiting for some help for my jigsaw. I think the battery has completely died. Planning in the mean time. Two holes through each piece for bamboo skewers..holes always "wander" a little. I'll center punch them and drill with a small drill first, then follow up with one that is just a little bigger than the skewers.
- GrandpaPhil, Baker and mtaylor
- 3
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- GrandpaPhil and mtaylor
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Thanks for the clarification Roger
that's the plan.
I hope to construct a shell around the plug of the hull planking
then lift the plug out and put in the internal frames.
With luck, I want to make the model so the internal framing can be lifted out to inspect the framing
rather than leaving parts of the hull exposed.
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- GrandpaPhil, mtaylor, amateur and 1 other
- 4
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stitching the plans back together digitally always gives me fits. since I can only print them 1 scan at a time anyway, I decided to print the 4 scans that cover the hull and assemble them back together "on paper"
by good luck the horizontal height of the layers is 3/8", just the size of some press board I have left over from building another "block" hull. So I'll be assembling 12 plans (1 for each layer) gluing them onto the pressboard and cutting them out with my jigsaw.
then a lot of sanding and filling to fair the lines
- mtaylor, bolin and GrandpaPhil
- 3
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Thanks Roger,
How should they be interpreted ?
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- mtaylor, Chuck Seiler and Louie da fly
- 3
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Well, I measured this morning and I'm in luck.
I have some 3/8's inch thick untempered masonite from a previous project where i was building a "block" model, and the layers in the 1/50 view are just 3/8's of an inch thick.
So I will rework the lines to get full outlines for each layer, cut them out and glue them together, and the file/sand the hull smooth, and i will have my plug.
I have decided to go ahead with the idea of dividing the stem and the stern posts so that the shell of the hull built around the plug will be separateable from the framing, deck and mast.
At this scale, and using wire "ropes" i should be able to make the mast/sail actually riggable, so they can be taken down for storage.
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Yes. The plans are detailed enough to build a full size ship, if one wished.
- Chuck Seiler and mtaylor
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I'm going to assume that the lines provided are to the outside of the hull planking.
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So
Looking at the plans the model at 1/50th looks ok. Smaller than a suitcase
Because of the way the ship is constructed, I'm going to try first carving a plug
Then building the planking over the plug
Then removing the plug and "filling in" the framing.
"Dutch Style" so to speak.
If I get really adventurous I will trying building the model so all the interal planking (and the masts and sail) can be "lifted out" of the shell for inspection. Instead of leaving off part of the hull or deck to make the internal construction visible.
- GrandpaPhil, Roger Pellett, mtaylor and 2 others
- 5
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going to keep working on this while I build the Kogge Van Bremen
Putting the reef points in the sail
i use wire for rope
you can tie a knot in the wire for one side...but for the life of me i cannot tie the knot on the other and have it be tight against the sail.
so i am tieing the knot in another piece of wire.. i will have to superglue this false knot against the sail and then trim the ends
- tkay11, ccoyle and GrandpaPhil
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Die Kogge Von Bremen by kentyler
in - Subjects built Up to and including 1500 AD
Posted
here we are, ready to go