Modeler12
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Nirvana in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Your first comments about 'Jim's saw' cutting up to 3/8 inch thickness is a bit limited.
The blades that come with the saw include a four inch diameter 'course', carbide tipped blade that cuts boards to 3/4 inch thickness very nicely. I have used that to cut slabs of hardwood, such as maple, blood-wood and poplar, and then used the 3 inch 'fine' blade to cut planking. Both cuts were very close to what I wanted and with some adjustments of the fence 'dead-on'.
I have a larger saw but for this kind of work I don't use it. The Byrnes saw does it all.
PS. It was an administrative error, I am sure, but I just got another bill from Thurston for blades I bought last year and paid for by card (the normal way with them). Keep your records (receipts)
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Modeler12 got a reaction from thibaultron in Miniature Russian carving tools
Looks like great carving tools.
I also would like the email address and was wondering how payments and shipping are handled.
In particular, I like to see more details of the shape of each tool and if I could order some individually rather than a whole set.
For 23 of those at $360 total I assume a price of $18 each would not be unreasonable.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Canute in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Your first comments about 'Jim's saw' cutting up to 3/8 inch thickness is a bit limited.
The blades that come with the saw include a four inch diameter 'course', carbide tipped blade that cuts boards to 3/4 inch thickness very nicely. I have used that to cut slabs of hardwood, such as maple, blood-wood and poplar, and then used the 3 inch 'fine' blade to cut planking. Both cuts were very close to what I wanted and with some adjustments of the fence 'dead-on'.
I have a larger saw but for this kind of work I don't use it. The Byrnes saw does it all.
PS. It was an administrative error, I am sure, but I just got another bill from Thurston for blades I bought last year and paid for by card (the normal way with them). Keep your records (receipts)
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Mike Y in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Your first comments about 'Jim's saw' cutting up to 3/8 inch thickness is a bit limited.
The blades that come with the saw include a four inch diameter 'course', carbide tipped blade that cuts boards to 3/4 inch thickness very nicely. I have used that to cut slabs of hardwood, such as maple, blood-wood and poplar, and then used the 3 inch 'fine' blade to cut planking. Both cuts were very close to what I wanted and with some adjustments of the fence 'dead-on'.
I have a larger saw but for this kind of work I don't use it. The Byrnes saw does it all.
PS. It was an administrative error, I am sure, but I just got another bill from Thurston for blades I bought last year and paid for by card (the normal way with them). Keep your records (receipts)
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Modeler12 got a reaction from BETAQDAVE in Miniature Russian carving tools
Looks like great carving tools.
I also would like the email address and was wondering how payments and shipping are handled.
In particular, I like to see more details of the shape of each tool and if I could order some individually rather than a whole set.
For 23 of those at $360 total I assume a price of $18 each would not be unreasonable.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from mtaylor in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Your first comments about 'Jim's saw' cutting up to 3/8 inch thickness is a bit limited.
The blades that come with the saw include a four inch diameter 'course', carbide tipped blade that cuts boards to 3/4 inch thickness very nicely. I have used that to cut slabs of hardwood, such as maple, blood-wood and poplar, and then used the 3 inch 'fine' blade to cut planking. Both cuts were very close to what I wanted and with some adjustments of the fence 'dead-on'.
I have a larger saw but for this kind of work I don't use it. The Byrnes saw does it all.
PS. It was an administrative error, I am sure, but I just got another bill from Thurston for blades I bought last year and paid for by card (the normal way with them). Keep your records (receipts)
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Modeler12 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Your first comments about 'Jim's saw' cutting up to 3/8 inch thickness is a bit limited.
The blades that come with the saw include a four inch diameter 'course', carbide tipped blade that cuts boards to 3/4 inch thickness very nicely. I have used that to cut slabs of hardwood, such as maple, blood-wood and poplar, and then used the 3 inch 'fine' blade to cut planking. Both cuts were very close to what I wanted and with some adjustments of the fence 'dead-on'.
I have a larger saw but for this kind of work I don't use it. The Byrnes saw does it all.
PS. It was an administrative error, I am sure, but I just got another bill from Thurston for blades I bought last year and paid for by card (the normal way with them). Keep your records (receipts)
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Nirvana in Byrnes Table Saw
Bill, I might add that the hold down fixture can easily be made using the bracket that came with the saw. It is easy enough to remove the clear plastic saw guard and then put in a bearing in its place. The bearing I used came from one of my router bits.
I use this hold-down fixture only for thin boards. It is a bit flimsy for sipping thick stock.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Byrnes Table Saw
One more addition. A splitter.
For my .035 inch thick blade, I used a piece of copper wire at .032 inch thickness. Then I drilled two #66 holes in the zero clearance insert as shown below. I had to make minor adjustments with a pair of pliers and now I am ready to add a couple drops of epoxy underneath to keep the wire in place.
The wire does not wrap around the top of the blade, but even so it worked well.
The hold-down ball bearing will be moved forward when in use, but for the picture I had it sitting well behind the splitter.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Anthony Burnside in Byrnes Table Saw
Here is my second addition. It is essentially a hold down fixture but uses a ball bearing mounted as shown.
The design came from seeing what another modeler had done to cut thin veneer.
Jim Byrnes also uses this idea for his clear blade guard.
I have cut several pieces this way and it really works very well.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Nirvana in Byrnes Table Saw
I am sorry, but I rather have the dull look. It is less glare in my face
In fact I have adapted it to my Ryobi sander and it works great there also. That is a piece of 1/8 inch plywood on the table to give me zero clearance.
But that is not all.
I now have several featherboards that use a 1/2 x 1/8 inch aluminum bar and three 10-32 thumb screws. The one to the right is mounted in a 'tapered' threaded hole. As I tighten that screw it forces the bar against the sides of the slot to lock it in place.
The featherboards are made of 1/8 inch plywood.
I have used this for cutting narrow strips (not too cool when using your fingers). True, I have to readjust the featherboard as I progress cutting more strips from the same piece. But, se la guerre.
BTW magnetic featherboards don't work on aluminum tables, so the only practical way is to use the slots.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from wefalck in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from mtaylor in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from captainbob in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from robnbill in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from Canute in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from Richard Griffith in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from jud in Proportional Dividers
It is interesting to see the two sides of this 'coin'.
If you have used the proportional dividers for a long time, I can appreciate that you like them for various reasons.
In my case, I have a pair and seldom use them, but so be it.
When Jud mentioned his liking for the decimal system (rather than fractions, I suppose) I agree. But when he talks about using a slide-rule - - - - I have to grin because those are dinosaurs in my college collection. Slide-rules are as accurate as proportional dividers and even more difficult to use and understand (I know Jud, you add or subtract logarithmic values, etc.).
The upshot is: if you like the tool you have, use it. If you want accuracy, calculate.
-
Modeler12 reacted to jud in Proportional Dividers
Tools are tools, which to use is a mater of preference, confidence, knowledge and the availability of tools to choose from. I may choose to measurement using cubits, 'IE 14.7 cubits, the .7 being an eyeball best guess', and a slide rule for the math or a calculator if I need to measure that result somewhere using a measuring device marked in meters. I prefer to work in decimals, decimal feet unless I need decimal inches, you will find lots of little pencil marks around my fabrication projects. I may measure using a decimal scale with 10, 10 or a thousand divisions regardless of scale, imperial or metric, scales are a simple conversions, divisions are visible things that create refinement in the eyeball reading of a measuring tool and are the single most used method of refinement in any measurement until needing to think about technique to avoid repetitive and cumulative errors. Wife was an inch, foot girl, a defect in her early potty training, had to rid the place of such marked measuring devices, until the lesson was absorbed with comfort, that the end of fractions did not destroy her world, only requirement, was to be aware of the division, inches or decimal feet, I have pocket tapes with both, amazingly the foot marks are common, not double. Why pick on the wife? She wanted, and did help me in my work, Inches were a problem in a decimal world.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from Nirvana in Byrnes Table Saw
One more addition. A splitter.
For my .035 inch thick blade, I used a piece of copper wire at .032 inch thickness. Then I drilled two #66 holes in the zero clearance insert as shown below. I had to make minor adjustments with a pair of pliers and now I am ready to add a couple drops of epoxy underneath to keep the wire in place.
The wire does not wrap around the top of the blade, but even so it worked well.
The hold-down ball bearing will be moved forward when in use, but for the picture I had it sitting well behind the splitter.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from mitbok in Byrnes Table Saw
Here is my second addition. It is essentially a hold down fixture but uses a ball bearing mounted as shown.
The design came from seeing what another modeler had done to cut thin veneer.
Jim Byrnes also uses this idea for his clear blade guard.
I have cut several pieces this way and it really works very well.
-
Modeler12 got a reaction from nobotch in Byrnes Table Saw
I am sorry, but I rather have the dull look. It is less glare in my face
In fact I have adapted it to my Ryobi sander and it works great there also. That is a piece of 1/8 inch plywood on the table to give me zero clearance.
But that is not all.
I now have several featherboards that use a 1/2 x 1/8 inch aluminum bar and three 10-32 thumb screws. The one to the right is mounted in a 'tapered' threaded hole. As I tighten that screw it forces the bar against the sides of the slot to lock it in place.
The featherboards are made of 1/8 inch plywood.
I have used this for cutting narrow strips (not too cool when using your fingers). True, I have to readjust the featherboard as I progress cutting more strips from the same piece. But, se la guerre.
BTW magnetic featherboards don't work on aluminum tables, so the only practical way is to use the slots.
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Modeler12 got a reaction from mtaylor in Proportional Dividers
I might add a couple comments about the way I measured the planking problem I showed above.
The length of the two openings (4.85 and 4.00 inches) was measured by using a piece of stiff paper. You can see that in the photograph. These dimensions were used in the calculation.
The width of the planks was measure with a dial set of calipers (with a dial indicator) that is accurate to within 0.001 inch.
There is no way that you can be that accurate with the proportional dividers.
To pace off sets of repetitive dimensions on a chart it is cheaper and easier to use a simple pair of dividers:
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Modeler12 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Proportional Dividers
Ok, let me explain. Let me do this with an example, the hull planking of my cross section.
If the planks need to be tapered because the space or opening as shown in the picture below changes along the hull lines, it is necessary to use the 'proportional method'. In this case, you measure the two dimensions of the opening and they are 4.85 and 4.00 inch respectively. Let's say the planks you have are 0.121 inch wide. What should the plank width measure at the other end? Obviously smaller if you put the wide end to the left in the picture.
The proportional ratio is 4.00 divided by 4.82. Now multiply that ratio by the 0.121 and you get 0.100 inches, the width of the narrow end.
Now you could have done this with the mechanical divider, but the accuracy becomes questionable because of the big difference in the size of the opening and plank width.
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