Hsae
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Everything posted by Hsae
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Another option: https://ultimation.ca/products/slicer- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Glenn, you work is marvelous, as always. I have to ask: where did you get your “mini-me” from? Did they actually scan you, or how does it work? I hope you didn’t answers this question before, I didn’t see it …. Hermann
- 840 replies
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- 2
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Byrnes ropewalk https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/ropewalk5.html
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I am building a whaleboat from the late 1800. I was wondering which paint would be best for wood? So far I painted plastic models with acrylic or enamel with the brands you are easy getting, like Testors, Tamiya, Vallejo or AK. And if I had to paint some wood I used only Wipe-On Poly. But how do I paint a model, say from 1800 in the appropriate color? I don’t have experiences with the Model Shipways paint, or other paints which are made especially for wooden models, so they say. But it there really a difference compared to the more common brands, like I mentioned above? Since paint got quite expensive I don’t want to buy all kind of different brands. I would really appreciate any input. Thanks, Hermann
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Also I would like to know what preperation ship modellers are using to brass or other metals prior to priming the surface before using an acrylic based paint.I always find that the paint is easily scraped off afterwards? I always prepare the brass with steel wool or #400 sand paper, after that I clean it with acetone, or alcohol. It is important that you don’t have any grease for instance from your fingers on the brass anymore. Hermann
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I was also trying the line tub, but I don’t know if I like it …
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Thank you for the likes. Slow process. Continuing with the paddles & oars …
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If you do “reply” or “quote” to this you can add photos with “choose files” located at the bottom. You can even take pictures. Hope this helps.
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PJG, may I ask what kind of diameters you used for the whale line & rigging? I agree the supplied stuff is awful. Hermann
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Used Cameron Drill Press Opinions Requested
Hsae replied to James G's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My two cents … 1) it depends how well maintained the drill press was/is 2) I don’t think that age matters as long as the drill press wasn’t abused 3) well I guess you find out later. Unfortunately you can measure the concentricity on eBay. You have to trust the seller. 4) I guess that is with every machine you purchase a concern. Maybe you should buy some parts while they are available, like belts. On the other hand what kind of parts do you need with a drill press? I have a Proxxon for over 20 years now, without any issues. I am guessing you don’t use it every day anyway. On the other hand you get a set up like in the picture below for roughly $300 new. Which in my case was from the point of accuracy sufficient (for my needs). Hermann
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Good evening Lester,
I was browsing the thread from Roy (New Bedford Whaleboat) and you offered some photos from Whaleboats.
I am in the process of building the Whaleboat too. Would it be possible to get some photos?Thanks,
Hermann
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Oar production …
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Meanwhile I did my first oar. I made it out of 3/8” square basswood. Of cause the handle broke off. I will see if I can fix that, or if I have to cut into the oar a little bit further.
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I was thinking that too. But I wasn’t sure if I don’t have the print reverse on the iron board. I’ll give it a try. Thats a good idea with the foam board. 👍 Thanks Geoff! Hermann
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I have a question for you guys. How in the world can the two keel layer (1/16 + 3/64) match the six posts with 1/32 each? The difference is roughly 5/64”. I am struggling with the scarf joint. Or am I overthinking this? Just sand it down?
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John, I did find something else in my library regarding anchor chain size, although it was for American schooner, but you get the idea. It is out of the “bible “ from Howard Chapelle. ISBN 0-393-03755-x Like allanyed already mentioned. 🤣
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John, I don’t know if you have the Bluenose II book ISBN 1-55109-063-5 Hope that helps. Hermann
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… laminating the steam & stern posts…
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The big moment where I finally start building a boat, to attach the molds to the horses. And an even bigger surprise, it didn’t fit. In my infinite wisdom I glued the center horse already in place. With the result you see in the pictures. Maybe next time I should dry fit everything first, before I glue it together. Oh well … After adding some strips under the stern & bow horse, I was able to level the mold.
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Next was to bevel molds # 1, 2, 4 & 5
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Of cause I forgot to notch mold #1 & #5. I noticed it after I had glued them together. In this case a mini Japanese saw is very helpful. The blades are ultra thin, only 0.1 mm or 0.00393701” ! One saw is for crosscut the other for rip cut.
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Next was to bend and attach the cap strip. I used hot water to soak it and clamp it to the molds.
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On a side note, the waviness of the plan was / is kind of annoying. you have to be very carefully if you measure something. BTW, I reinforced the molds.
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Thank you for the likes & comments That will be a long build, time wise, because I can only work on the model on weekends. Furthermore I had to build something for my cloth pin collection. I managed to get the hull molds and the horses done. I encountered more issues withe the “laser cut” parts than I had imagine. But nothing which couldn’t be fixed. It was just time consuming before you actually start building.
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Next was getting the waterlines on the molds and reduce thickness on the bow & stern (WL 1-4)
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