Brucealanevans

Thanks for the advice! I used Aliphatic Resin. I will try it on a few pieces of scrap wood for further building. This time I will let it be on this model. The reason I used a large clamp was that the "point of contact" between the board and bow was so small. Next time I will att a piece of balsa wood to the bow and sand it down so that the planks have a larger contact area so to speak. this will also guarantee that the shape is correct.
 
But thanks again, I did not think of trying to dissolve the glue. I thought of sawing it loose but that then I would loose a couple of millimeters and the plank would be too short. So I decided to leave it.

Thanks for all the opinions.
Have a table saw for all ripping. Won't be dotting anything more than 3/8.
Limited space too.
I think the Proxxon 115 will work for me.

Thanks for all the opinions.
Have a table saw for all ripping. Won't be dotting anything more than 3/8.
Limited space too.
I think the Proxxon 115 will work for me.

More expensive tho, and some of the work I want to do has sharper curves
Think I'll go with the Proxxon micro.
Thanks

I'm in the US.
Went to Lowes today and they only had one scroll saw which was too big.
The $500 was absolute top for highest quality. Would prefer to spend much less but needs to be a clear upgrade or I'll get by with the micromark saw as long as it lasts if it will cut the .5 cm holly when I start my Granado build.

Hi all
I have read all the posts about scroll saws, band saws, etc.
I have a rather specific set of requirements and would like some advice and directions from owners.
 
I will be cutting some pieces for my next build from holly for the bow pieces, and my micromark microliux mini scroll saw isn't up to the job. I also don't like that it doesn't have a vacuum port or blade dust blower. Looking for a replacement that is more capable and higher quality. .
 
I have a Byrnes table saw so no need for ripping or straight cuts.
Would like it to have vacuum port but not a deal-breaker.
Unlikely to be cutting more than 1/4 or perhaps 3/8 inch woods including boxwood, cherry, holly, and ply. No metal or plastics.
Will be doing a cross section in the future so capability to cut frame pieces inside and outside curves essential. I don't have the patience or dexterity to do this work with a coping saw.
Modeling work only and space is constrained so don't want or need a "full sized " tool. A footprint similar to the micromark saw would be ideal.
Willing to pay for a good tool but realistically $500 tops would prefer less.
 
Is the similar sized and priced Proxxon an upgrade? Other suggestions feom users with similar tasks?
 
Bruce

More expensive tho, and some of the work I want to do has sharper curves
Think I'll go with the Proxxon micro.
Thanks

More expensive tho, and some of the work I want to do has sharper curves
Think I'll go with the Proxxon micro.
Thanks

I'm in the US.
Went to Lowes today and they only had one scroll saw which was too big.
The $500 was absolute top for highest quality. Would prefer to spend much less but needs to be a clear upgrade or I'll get by with the micromark saw as long as it lasts if it will cut the .5 cm holly when I start my Granado build.

Hi all
I have read all the posts about scroll saws, band saws, etc.
I have a rather specific set of requirements and would like some advice and directions from owners.
 
I will be cutting some pieces for my next build from holly for the bow pieces, and my micromark microliux mini scroll saw isn't up to the job. I also don't like that it doesn't have a vacuum port or blade dust blower. Looking for a replacement that is more capable and higher quality. .
 
I have a Byrnes table saw so no need for ripping or straight cuts.
Would like it to have vacuum port but not a deal-breaker.
Unlikely to be cutting more than 1/4 or perhaps 3/8 inch woods including boxwood, cherry, holly, and ply. No metal or plastics.
Will be doing a cross section in the future so capability to cut frame pieces inside and outside curves essential. I don't have the patience or dexterity to do this work with a coping saw.
Modeling work only and space is constrained so don't want or need a "full sized " tool. A footprint similar to the micromark saw would be ideal.
Willing to pay for a good tool but realistically $500 tops would prefer less.
 
Is the similar sized and priced Proxxon an upgrade? Other suggestions feom users with similar tasks?
 
Bruce

Bob
I believe I'm going to do this ship next.
I love the look of the holly below the wales.
Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that?
How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips.
Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before.
Bruce

Gone on a family trip for a while, and I always have trouble motivating myself to beaver away on a repetitive job - in this case building the whaleboat stations as I finish off the standing rigging and prepare for the running rigging.
I finished the 3 portside stations.
 
I now - but not earlier - appreciate the precision with which the positional interplay of the channels, deadeyes/chainplates, shelter platform supports, and the components of the whaleboat stations need to be carefully worked out very early on. Because of even minor variances, I have had more than a little trouble with the davits and lashing posts and their rigging interfering with the shrouds and deadeyes. Consequently, I have some distortions and/or twisting I'm just going to have to put up with on the finished model. This is one of my big takeaways from this - my first really challenging build. I was a bit cavalier in placing the channels and the chainplate holes in the channels at that point. Well, build and learn.
Eyeballing the starboard side, I think the 2 stations there will be less of a problem, especially as I am now forewarned about the clearances I will require.
 
Here are a few photos of the port side stations with the blocks and hooks rigged. I used Syren Co. laser cut black hooks - I like the way they look.

Bob
I believe I'm going to do this ship next.
I love the look of the holly below the wales.
Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that?
How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips.
Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before.
Bruce

Bob
I believe I'm going to do this ship next.
I love the look of the holly below the wales.
Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that?
How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips.
Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before.
Bruce

Bob
I believe I'm going to do this ship next.
I love the look of the holly below the wales.
Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that?
How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips.
Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before.
Bruce

Unless you can find a hairdryer really cheap at a thrift store, consider a heat gun instead.  They can be had for less than 20 bucks on Amazon brand new, and they generate a higher temperature and get to temperature faster than a hair dryer, with less 'wind', which works great for our purposes.
 
I don't suggest trying to use a heat gun to dry your hair though, that might not work out so well.  

I just finished the ratboards for the first level of the masts. Dozens of boards and hundreds of knots. A tedious job I had to break up to an hour or so a day, so took a long time. I also inexplicably installed the main shroud ratboards on one side with the "free" shroud aft rather than forward - of course I didn't notice until I was putting the LAST on one. After some bad words, I had a long job picking off the securely knotted and glued ratboards without ruining the shrouds which would have been VERY difficult to replace.
At any rate finally done. Looks OK but looking at the close up picture below a bit untidy. Still looking way up at perfection! Never pays to look too close.
Thanks for the likes and kind words.
After a few days break will start on the next level of masting. Back to another tedious job - serving the lines for shrouds.

So I've finally finished the planking and a rough sanding. Some work on filler for cracks, etc. yet to go.

No, I'm going to paint it so I think I'll just go with the single planking.
Speaking of which, here it is with provisional planking bands marked out with artist's tape.
Still adjusting, then will mark the lines on the bulkheads and remove the pins and tape.

Now on to hull planking

So I've started on a Charles W Morgan build, although somewhat intimidated by the speed and or quality of the currently documented construction projects for this ship.
This model is a stretch for me, given the amount of scratch building involved and the somewhat cryptic instructions of this older MS kit.
I got interested after building the New Bedford Whaleboat, and added this kit to my "to do" stack. Having finished Picket Boat #1 to my satisfaction, decided to defer the Phildelphia Gunboat and take on a more complicated project.
I'm not retired (yet) and have many professional demands on my time, so I end up working in fits and starts and when I need the "therapy".
I decided to go ahead and build the hull superstructure before planking to allow better access for clamps for the waterway, planksheer, rail and topgallant structure. That's where I am now (pictures below). The rail structure is a bit wavy viewed end on on one side, but overall I'm relatively pleased within the envelope of my skillset. I had a few disasters in terms of inadvertant breakage of thin pieces (mainly the main rail) after installation by a misplaced hand while working on another part, but managed to overcome that adequately. I still have to do some sanding on the main rail as the strip I used was a bit wider than the rail is supposed to be - that is evident in the pictures where the rail meets the laser-cut curved rail piece forwards.
Next I'll plank between the planksheer and the mail rail to reinforce that area, and then likely add the wale and plank between the planksheer and the top of the wale.
Then I'll go on to bands A-D
The build logs and galleries on this and other sites have been a great aid.
 
Bruce

Gone on a family trip for a while, and I always have trouble motivating myself to beaver away on a repetitive job - in this case building the whaleboat stations as I finish off the standing rigging and prepare for the running rigging.
I finished the 3 portside stations.
 
I now - but not earlier - appreciate the precision with which the positional interplay of the channels, deadeyes/chainplates, shelter platform supports, and the components of the whaleboat stations need to be carefully worked out very early on. Because of even minor variances, I have had more than a little trouble with the davits and lashing posts and their rigging interfering with the shrouds and deadeyes. Consequently, I have some distortions and/or twisting I'm just going to have to put up with on the finished model. This is one of my big takeaways from this - my first really challenging build. I was a bit cavalier in placing the channels and the chainplate holes in the channels at that point. Well, build and learn.
Eyeballing the starboard side, I think the 2 stations there will be less of a problem, especially as I am now forewarned about the clearances I will require.
 
Here are a few photos of the port side stations with the blocks and hooks rigged. I used Syren Co. laser cut black hooks - I like the way they look.

Gone on a family trip for a while, and I always have trouble motivating myself to beaver away on a repetitive job - in this case building the whaleboat stations as I finish off the standing rigging and prepare for the running rigging.
I finished the 3 portside stations.
 
I now - but not earlier - appreciate the precision with which the positional interplay of the channels, deadeyes/chainplates, shelter platform supports, and the components of the whaleboat stations need to be carefully worked out very early on. Because of even minor variances, I have had more than a little trouble with the davits and lashing posts and their rigging interfering with the shrouds and deadeyes. Consequently, I have some distortions and/or twisting I'm just going to have to put up with on the finished model. This is one of my big takeaways from this - my first really challenging build. I was a bit cavalier in placing the channels and the chainplate holes in the channels at that point. Well, build and learn.
Eyeballing the starboard side, I think the 2 stations there will be less of a problem, especially as I am now forewarned about the clearances I will require.
 
Here are a few photos of the port side stations with the blocks and hooks rigged. I used Syren Co. laser cut black hooks - I like the way they look.

Thanks
When I just stand back and look at it I smile.

Gone on a family trip for a while, and I always have trouble motivating myself to beaver away on a repetitive job - in this case building the whaleboat stations as I finish off the standing rigging and prepare for the running rigging.
I finished the 3 portside stations.
 
I now - but not earlier - appreciate the precision with which the positional interplay of the channels, deadeyes/chainplates, shelter platform supports, and the components of the whaleboat stations need to be carefully worked out very early on. Because of even minor variances, I have had more than a little trouble with the davits and lashing posts and their rigging interfering with the shrouds and deadeyes. Consequently, I have some distortions and/or twisting I'm just going to have to put up with on the finished model. This is one of my big takeaways from this - my first really challenging build. I was a bit cavalier in placing the channels and the chainplate holes in the channels at that point. Well, build and learn.
Eyeballing the starboard side, I think the 2 stations there will be less of a problem, especially as I am now forewarned about the clearances I will require.
 
Here are a few photos of the port side stations with the blocks and hooks rigged. I used Syren Co. laser cut black hooks - I like the way they look.