RGL

Back to the hull. I have sprayed on some 'worn effects' fluid over the pre painted parts of the hull then about 4 shades of red trying to bring out the frames and hull plates. This photo from another ship of this class shows them up nicely. 
 
Ill give it it a few hours to dry then start rubbing back sections to reveal the undercoats. 
 
I have used some Mr Surfacer on the bottom which when oversprayed with black and grey may represent barnacles, then a bit of rust and alge. 

Back to the hull. I have sprayed on some 'worn effects' fluid over the pre painted parts of the hull then about 4 shades of red trying to bring out the frames and hull plates. This photo from another ship of this class shows them up nicely. 
 
Ill give it it a few hours to dry then start rubbing back sections to reveal the undercoats. 
 
I have used some Mr Surfacer on the bottom which when oversprayed with black and grey may represent barnacles, then a bit of rust and alge. 

The stand is a rough one I made out of mdf just to hold the ship during construction. I will make a proper stand when I'm finished, probably like the small supports I made for my first Endeavour in this pic

The Hull
The following pictures show the hull as it is at present. I have added the stanchions and capping rail. The stanchions were not supplied in the kit and are from 3x3mm lime. The positioning came from the instructions for the Dursk kit. I have also added the wale, again this differs from the instructions in the kit, though it does conform to the supplied drawings.

At the front I have cut off the ply stem and headpiece and replaced them with one from solid wood. Not sure what, it came from the scrap box. I have also replaced all the head timbers, which were supplied as 3mm ply, which fell apart as I tried to cut it to size or reduce it to the required thickness. These are all made with some lime that I had in stock. This also shows the wale a bit better. The pencil line is where the hull coppering extends to. I will neaten up the bottom of the stem before doing the coppering. That bit of lime on the front of the headpiece was my first attempt to carve the decoration there. I took off to much trying to carve the concave profile. I will remove it all and then try again.

A view from the rear. I have cut off the bit of wood that would have held the rudder. It was getting in the way when trying to sand the hull. It will be easy to replace and the whole thing will be covered in copperplates.

This shows a close up of the bows. In these last two pictures it is possible to see the deck planking. I am very unhappy with this and not sure whether just to do it again on top. I used the wood supplied in the kit, which was of very poor quality. It was very thin and impossible to get a clean edge. Trying to darken the edges in any way did not work, so I first tried gluing strips of black paper between the planks, which is how the raised stern in planked. But again the thickness/thinness of the wood made this very difficult.
For the rest of the planking I glued black cotton between the planks. This was much easier to do, but the thinness of the planking meant that in places the cotton was so near the top that it was damaged when finishing. Also I had calculated that there was only just enough material supplied to do the planking if I omitted areas that would not be seen.

Recently I had been working on the hull, but have stopped while I wait for the plans I have now ordered. I have gone back to making the various deck houses, winches and companion hoods. I will move onto these in my next instalment.
​Glenn

Great work,  that main mast looks so like the one on my Warpy (when I het round to continuing)
 
 
OC.

The extra frame supports I put in have come into use already. I've fitted the first two hull skins, and without them I would have had all sorts of problems. The "bumps" opposite the forecastle bulkhead are supposed to be there, as is the odd way the forecastle deck is fitted to the top of the hull. It'll look a lot different when more pieces are installed :
 

 
I'm really happy with the way these went on, it was something I was dreading a bit but these are probably the two hardest ones to fit .
 
Cheers,  Danny

I'm in, IJN is in favour at the moment. 

Nah, anyone could do this. The seriously good plastic modellers are usually Korean or Chinese and if I could find their blogs to learn something I couldn't read it. 
 
I just follow the instructions. Married a long time, that'll do it. 

thanks. The depth charge racks and mortar, will get a bit more weathering when finally fixed on. 

The three Amigos, bit of grunge and rust
 

I'd rather leave a gap than bend the PE or leave great globs of glue. We've all got a skill level still to attain! 
 
Now, extra after market depth charge racks. The kit ones are atrocious and didn't bother with some bits and neither did Flyhawk. 
 
The kit depthcharge thrower is pretty pretty good but just not on the instructions as they provide multiple spruces for multiple kits for some reason. 
 
This stuff is nice... there is actually only one main rack, the first one is a practice fret that is .1mm out (my fault). 

Yes mate, a little gap, paint will bring them closer! Or maybe a tiny bit of mr surfacer, I'll see how it looks after the primer coat. 
 
Depth charge racks today. 

From experience the only way it works is to cut the very first spoke too close to the fret, and make a pilot hole for it, otherwise it just does not work. As there is a curve you can't guess where each hole goes and it looks like crap as they don't align or you use too much glue. They're horrible to install. 

Ah, that's why I do them poked onto a stick in a vise then! 
 
Sunday afternoon, and all three stacks complete and ready for paint. They are fairly fragile so I'm thinking the airbrush will knock bits off.

Started on the funnels. The kit provides 3 pieces per funnel, so tossing one piece and stripping and sanding it down, started them again also using brass rod as the external steam vents.1/3 done. 

I'm in, IJN is in favour at the moment. 

I'm in, IJN is in favour at the moment. 

The three Amigos, bit of grunge and rust
 

Nah, anyone could do this. The seriously good plastic modellers are usually Korean or Chinese and if I could find their blogs to learn something I couldn't read it. 
 
I just follow the instructions. Married a long time, that'll do it. 

thanks. The depth charge racks and mortar, will get a bit more weathering when finally fixed on. 

I'm in, IJN is in favour at the moment. 

Nah, anyone could do this. The seriously good plastic modellers are usually Korean or Chinese and if I could find their blogs to learn something I couldn't read it. 
 
I just follow the instructions. Married a long time, that'll do it. 

thanks. The depth charge racks and mortar, will get a bit more weathering when finally fixed on. 

The three Amigos, bit of grunge and rust
 

I'd rather leave a gap than bend the PE or leave great globs of glue. We've all got a skill level still to attain! 
 
Now, extra after market depth charge racks. The kit ones are atrocious and didn't bother with some bits and neither did Flyhawk. 
 
The kit depthcharge thrower is pretty pretty good but just not on the instructions as they provide multiple spruces for multiple kits for some reason. 
 
This stuff is nice... there is actually only one main rack, the first one is a practice fret that is .1mm out (my fault).