RGL
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I just recieved the North Star Russian hatch covers, which appear in an earlier photos, which also depicts the actual hatch opening up from the side not the end.
Photos; The eduard is the most basic with no rims to the hatch, the Artwox one is lovely, with dogs on them which you just bend up, but I can find no evidence they were used, and the North star ones. I think I will layer the bottom of the north star one with the Artwox rim with dogs, then use the doors cut off the fret opening up from the side.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The next bit will be to put the stair into the decks which are attached to the false deck. Given I have extra's I reckon I'll use the stairs from Eduard instead of the resin ones provided by Artwox, as the level of detail is so much better and I'll be using difference hatch covers.
The brass sheet you are looking at is the PE false deck that the wooden one will go onto.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I read on a polish forum (love google translate) that the Artwox masts were poor compared to the master models one. The master models ones are soooo much better. I now have to learn to solder, but can proactice on the Artwox ones.
The zoom shot is a bit blurry, but it shows the mast caps which just appear to be a little piece of PE and another part which I just do not understand nor is it expalined.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
There are a heap of open source documents available on this ship I have discovered using Google translate. The Russian ship modeler's forums seem to have many hyperlinks to PDF documents.
As such I am finding more and more inacuracies. The Stern Torpedo tube's hinges are on top, not the side.
The companionways in both Eduard and Artwox are wrong (You can see from the zoomed in photos of the real thing). The Draminski book which I have purchased is nice, but the available blueprints are fantastic for every aspect. The files are too big to upload but easy to find at http://karopka.ru/forum/forum263/
Now I have two frets of companion ways that are inaccurate and have ordered ther North Star models version.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The stern gallery. This is fiddly as the platform has 8 individual struts underneath. The Atrxwox fret is nicer but about 1/2 as this as the Eduard fret (the darker one is eduard) and is paper thin and very fragile. The latticework is finer, more detailed and has extra struts.
There is also a stern torpedo tube with the fret from eduad which is not not even mentioned in the Artwox kit but is in all the reference stuff.
I have a stern nameplate and coat of arms which i will attach after painting. Both aftermarket.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I have never worked with resin, and I was some what apprehensive. The prop shafts are on a sprue for want of a better word I supose. I eventually cut them off and accidentally clipped off a little noggin on the end of one, thinking crap, scratch build here were come. 1 obscure photo in the instructions set me right that it was supposed to be cut off. Who knew!
The instructions also told me to use a 1mm rod (not provided or numbered) so luckily had and used 1mm steel rod to align them onto the hull untill I can get some 1mm brass rod and blacken it. It has not been glued in but will act as a prace for protectioon. The braces have to be drilled all the way though to have one continious shaft. .
really happy to take resin tips from the pros.
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RGL got a reaction from RRLittle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Time to join the hull pieces togeather, which go with a minimum of fuss and putty to hide the seams. I could not find a decent set of pedestals anywhere on the net (there was one set at $85 before shipping from the US - no thanks).
I then had a mind storm and remembered I had some $2 brass rod which I had in my spares.
I cut down each to an easy working size (and can be cut down further and polished up when the model is finished. I then used some offcut wood pieces, cut into 4 square pieces, 2 of which I drilled to the diameter of the rod, then stuck one drilled piece to a not drilled piece to make a sturdy slot to hold the rod. Both pieces were then glued onto the inner hull each.
An offcut of a floorboard aligned with the rods as a base will allow me to go hands off with the model.
The rods are not glued (they done't need to be as the model can slide on and off depending what I need to do with it.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
There is a small boom arm on either side that is obviously used to lower small things. The eduard photo etch shows a large arm and the Artwox is smaller arm with a block attached. Easy choice. First set of spares i suppose.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Steps complete. I did not shave off the hull steps that were on the original hull as I wanted a guide. It worked out that the prt side has less steps than the starbord side so I actually had enough. Note for beginners I suppose, I scribed a line above the bulges that are supposed to be steps and using a pin ran some CA and then used tweazers to place the individual steps. i did not do this on the starboard side so the alignment is not as good.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Ok, 2 days work on half a hull. I've used Dafi's scaling system of a Tic Tac as everyones coins are different. Drilled out the portholes and started on the photo etch. The Artwox fret has the hatches, the Eduard Fret has the footrails and the steps. I need to get some really fine grain sandpaper for a bit of tidy up from the CA.
You can see at the bow how I've started to sand off the scrollwork as the Artwox kit leaves it as is but Eduard provide one.
It's been such a long time since I've usd Photo etch I've forgotten how fiddley it is. The steps are microscopic, and whilst they look a little out of line, in the broad view it won't really matter.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The contents of the box; lots of resin, 2 sheets of photoetch, a false brass deck, a wooden deck, the hull, lots of little brass rods, and instructions. Also is the Eduard frets. As I progress I will compare the pair, but I have already noted that the wheelhouse for the Artwox kit is resin where the Eduard is photoetch, and Eduard includes the Bow decorations where as Artwox omits it. Eduard also does not included the hatches on the hull. Neither kit has a decent rendition of the rails on the hull. Artvox does not bother and it is only representative with Eduard. The steps on the hull are not included in the Artwox and the Eduard fret has them.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I just recieved the North Star Russian hatch covers, which appear in an earlier photos, which also depicts the actual hatch opening up from the side not the end.
Photos; The eduard is the most basic with no rims to the hatch, the Artwox one is lovely, with dogs on them which you just bend up, but I can find no evidence they were used, and the North star ones. I think I will layer the bottom of the north star one with the Artwox rim with dogs, then use the doors cut off the fret opening up from the side.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The next bit will be to put the stair into the decks which are attached to the false deck. Given I have extra's I reckon I'll use the stairs from Eduard instead of the resin ones provided by Artwox, as the level of detail is so much better and I'll be using difference hatch covers.
The brass sheet you are looking at is the PE false deck that the wooden one will go onto.
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RGL got a reaction from docidle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I read on a polish forum (love google translate) that the Artwox masts were poor compared to the master models one. The master models ones are soooo much better. I now have to learn to solder, but can proactice on the Artwox ones.
The zoom shot is a bit blurry, but it shows the mast caps which just appear to be a little piece of PE and another part which I just do not understand nor is it expalined.
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RGL got a reaction from dgbot in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The next bit will be to put the stair into the decks which are attached to the false deck. Given I have extra's I reckon I'll use the stairs from Eduard instead of the resin ones provided by Artwox, as the level of detail is so much better and I'll be using difference hatch covers.
The brass sheet you are looking at is the PE false deck that the wooden one will go onto.
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RGL got a reaction from docidle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I just recieved the North Star Russian hatch covers, which appear in an earlier photos, which also depicts the actual hatch opening up from the side not the end.
Photos; The eduard is the most basic with no rims to the hatch, the Artwox one is lovely, with dogs on them which you just bend up, but I can find no evidence they were used, and the North star ones. I think I will layer the bottom of the north star one with the Artwox rim with dogs, then use the doors cut off the fret opening up from the side.
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RGL got a reaction from mtaylor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Super glue slices all in tiny amounts, but I will have to solder the masts and yards unless I can drill them, as the tension with the rigging may pull them off, thus the practice with the spare yards or even some brass rod, they are tiny so I'll have to learn how to go from big to small, my Endeavour was much more forgiving.
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RGL got a reaction from Canute in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Super glue slices all in tiny amounts, but I will have to solder the masts and yards unless I can drill them, as the tension with the rigging may pull them off, thus the practice with the spare yards or even some brass rod, they are tiny so I'll have to learn how to go from big to small, my Endeavour was much more forgiving.
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RGL got a reaction from docidle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The next bit will be to put the stair into the decks which are attached to the false deck. Given I have extra's I reckon I'll use the stairs from Eduard instead of the resin ones provided by Artwox, as the level of detail is so much better and I'll be using difference hatch covers.
The brass sheet you are looking at is the PE false deck that the wooden one will go onto.
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RGL got a reaction from Captain Slog in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I just recieved the North Star Russian hatch covers, which appear in an earlier photos, which also depicts the actual hatch opening up from the side not the end.
Photos; The eduard is the most basic with no rims to the hatch, the Artwox one is lovely, with dogs on them which you just bend up, but I can find no evidence they were used, and the North star ones. I think I will layer the bottom of the north star one with the Artwox rim with dogs, then use the doors cut off the fret opening up from the side.
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RGL got a reaction from GuntherMT in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Super glue slices all in tiny amounts, but I will have to solder the masts and yards unless I can drill them, as the tension with the rigging may pull them off, thus the practice with the spare yards or even some brass rod, they are tiny so I'll have to learn how to go from big to small, my Endeavour was much more forgiving.
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RGL got a reaction from RRLittle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I have never worked with resin, and I was some what apprehensive. The prop shafts are on a sprue for want of a better word I supose. I eventually cut them off and accidentally clipped off a little noggin on the end of one, thinking crap, scratch build here were come. 1 obscure photo in the instructions set me right that it was supposed to be cut off. Who knew!
The instructions also told me to use a 1mm rod (not provided or numbered) so luckily had and used 1mm steel rod to align them onto the hull untill I can get some 1mm brass rod and blacken it. It has not been glued in but will act as a prace for protectioon. The braces have to be drilled all the way though to have one continious shaft. .
really happy to take resin tips from the pros.
-
RGL got a reaction from Captain Slog in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
The next bit will be to put the stair into the decks which are attached to the false deck. Given I have extra's I reckon I'll use the stairs from Eduard instead of the resin ones provided by Artwox, as the level of detail is so much better and I'll be using difference hatch covers.
The brass sheet you are looking at is the PE false deck that the wooden one will go onto.
-
RGL got a reaction from Captain Slog in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
I read on a polish forum (love google translate) that the Artwox masts were poor compared to the master models one. The master models ones are soooo much better. I now have to learn to solder, but can proactice on the Artwox ones.
The zoom shot is a bit blurry, but it shows the mast caps which just appear to be a little piece of PE and another part which I just do not understand nor is it expalined.
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RGL got a reaction from coxswain in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
A bit more work with resin, the Bow Torpedo tube, it's tiny and about .5mm this which needs to be filed down flat off a piece or resin cast. Then the small anchor braces, I have not put the anchor on and will not until I have painted it as it will just bend the anchor when I handle it.
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