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bruce d

NRG Member
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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. Hello Steve Welcome to MSW. It is a great place.
  2. That is the way I have drawn my plans without actually stopping to think about it. Thanks for the confirmation.
  3. Pete, that is nice work. I think I looked at those pictures some time ago when I was cogitating and can see the advantages: it is almost like a solid hull.
  4. Jaager, I have had good results from the holly I have cut so far. I sealed the ends soon after cutting and because the tree came down in winter (so I have been told) the odds are better. I think the blue mould is less of a problem over here but it definately can happen. The deck is the area where I want to stick close to the pale white holly colour so, if some of it shows discolouration, I will use the best for the deck and the duff stuff for the hull planking which will be painted/stained and coppered. I have about six of lengths as in the photo which is enough for my modelling needs, I expect, and more wood is seasoning from a cull last year. It is beautiful wood. Bruce
  5. Thanks Roger, it is now on my to-do list for tomorrow after the Grand Prix. Bruce
  6. I am cheating. The holly is from my garden, brought down by high winds in December 2013 and stashed in anticipation of this project. The first layer will be something else, perhaps beech or Sapele, both are available. Actually, I suppose that since I have a free hand the priority should be something easy to shape and sand for the first layer. Now that I have seen the responses I have started adjusting the frame drawings to allow for the two layers. Thanks Mike. Bruce
  7. Thank you Roger, I will look at that log. I still have time to adapt.
  8. Many thanks, Kurt. I am glad MSW is here for pooling iinformation. Before cutting a single piece of wood for my retirement project ship-build I have had the benefit of advice from experienced builders. Having spent time researching and drawing, digging and digesting, it is good to know that I have served a 'mini-apprenticeship' and enjoyed doing it.
  9. OK, this helped. ... and ... Jason, I will do a double planked hull. This was my Plan A but I needed to be told that I wasn't missing a trick. Kurt, your comment on spacing was a bulls-eye because this was what alerted me that I was 'out of step' with other builds: my schooner will have plenty of bulkheads and the great majority of builds I had looked at with similar construction were single planked. Many thanks for the input. You may even see a build log before long! Bruce
  10. Hello Gregory Yes, and maybe I am assuming too much but I imagine some experienced builders have clear opinions on the subject. I suppose it is yet another sign of hesitancy on my part, I know there is no rule to break or planking police to enforce it, but I have drawn my plans and after a year of anticipation this one point can still be adjusted. I am concious of being an inexperienced builder and wonder if one technique is more forgiving than the other, or one is more suited to the subject (P.O.B. schooner at 1/40th)? There is a whole bunch of unanswered questions that I am looking forward to tackling myself as the build progresses but this seemed like the best time to sort out this particular point. Thanks, Bruce
  11. I hope the forum will provide some last minute advice. I am about ready to start cutting wood for my first wooden ship scratchbuild, a P.O.B. schooner in 1/40 scale. This will be my first attempt at planking a hull. I have read logs and how-to guides looking for a clear statement (and reason) from a modern source on why one or the other technique would be best for a particular project. No luck. If it sways opinion one way or another, the finished hull will be painted and coppered. The planks (outermost if double planked) will be holly. Any comments? Thanks in advance. Bruce
  12. Hello Christian, I have sat down in the shade to catch up with your build. It is superb. Stay out of the sun! Regards, Bruce
  13. It is probably worth getting in touch with these guys: http://www.exotichardwoods.co.uk/ They trade under the name 'Timberline' and have a lot of different woods, mainly serving the musical instrument makers of this island. I have found them to be very helpful. You may be offered sheets/strips of another width but it is a start. HTH Bruce
  14. Thanks Allan, gott'em. They are great and I think this book completes the story. I have been going through some sections this afternoon and am pleased to see that most of the masts/spars I have drawn so far conform, I will have to decide what to leave and what to re-think. I promised myself I would not buy books on impulse. I am trying, but it is so hard .... Bruce
  15. I got the book. As soon as I looked at the content and format it became clear this is a summary of scantlings of the era with plain language explanations to guide the modeller. I am very glad I made the trip to the shop with the book, even though I have PDFs of some of the scantlings from that time-frame. This is what I needed: a modeller explaining the subject for the benefit of other modellers. Thanks for the help. Bruce
  16. Jan, I think I am going to get the book. Thank you for the advice, I believe 'quite a lot of ship types' is what I need. When I narrow it down I can look for more detail of a particular type/rig. There is so much to learn! Bruce
  17. Hello Nils, perhaps you can find some help here: www.oldmarineengine.com/ Keep up the good work, the boat looks good. Bruce
  18. ‘Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging’ by Marquardt Is this book as good as it looks? Thanks, Bruce
  19. It might be worth phoning/emailing the archive and pleading your case. I have found many (not all) archives have helpful people who can help with small requests. You don't ask, you don't get...
  20. I just can't leave it alone. Found these: Danish digital archive, images F417, F418
  21. Have you seen this thread? The piece I put through in the pictures was the maximum the saw would take. I was using an 18 tpi blade and this was a mistake. It started out slow but OK, however the blade was finished by the third log. Now I use an eight tpi blade and it cuts smoothly without overloading the 350W motor.
  22. Excellent idea. Another excellent idea. When the time comes I will I will let you know how this works out.
  23. Of course! How could I have missed it? On the subject of lathes for modelling (I think that was where we started) the Unimat SL collection of accessories was pretty much complete within a few years of the launch. Milling, dividing, collets and thread cutting were all early options and were popular with watchmakers and jewellers as well as model makers. I have an iron bed early model, two mazac bed later models and a bastardised iron bed that was cut in half and 'stretched' by mounting the two halves on a long bed for making drumsticks! I have no idea what I will eventually do with this long-bed beast but I felt sorry for it and gave it a warm home. Maybe masts?
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