bruce d
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Thanks Roger, it is now on my to-do list for tomorrow after the Grand Prix. Bruce -
I am cheating. The holly is from my garden, brought down by high winds in December 2013 and stashed in anticipation of this project. The first layer will be something else, perhaps beech or Sapele, both are available. Actually, I suppose that since I have a free hand the priority should be something easy to shape and sand for the first layer. Now that I have seen the responses I have started adjusting the frame drawings to allow for the two layers. Thanks Mike. Bruce
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Thank you Roger, I will look at that log. I still have time to adapt.
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Many thanks, Kurt. I am glad MSW is here for pooling iinformation. Before cutting a single piece of wood for my retirement project ship-build I have had the benefit of advice from experienced builders. Having spent time researching and drawing, digging and digesting, it is good to know that I have served a 'mini-apprenticeship' and enjoyed doing it.
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OK, this helped. ... and ... Jason, I will do a double planked hull. This was my Plan A but I needed to be told that I wasn't missing a trick. Kurt, your comment on spacing was a bulls-eye because this was what alerted me that I was 'out of step' with other builds: my schooner will have plenty of bulkheads and the great majority of builds I had looked at with similar construction were single planked. Many thanks for the input. You may even see a build log before long! Bruce
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Hello Gregory Yes, and maybe I am assuming too much but I imagine some experienced builders have clear opinions on the subject. I suppose it is yet another sign of hesitancy on my part, I know there is no rule to break or planking police to enforce it, but I have drawn my plans and after a year of anticipation this one point can still be adjusted. I am concious of being an inexperienced builder and wonder if one technique is more forgiving than the other, or one is more suited to the subject (P.O.B. schooner at 1/40th)? There is a whole bunch of unanswered questions that I am looking forward to tackling myself as the build progresses but this seemed like the best time to sort out this particular point. Thanks, Bruce
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I hope the forum will provide some last minute advice. I am about ready to start cutting wood for my first wooden ship scratchbuild, a P.O.B. schooner in 1/40 scale. This will be my first attempt at planking a hull. I have read logs and how-to guides looking for a clear statement (and reason) from a modern source on why one or the other technique would be best for a particular project. No luck. If it sways opinion one way or another, the finished hull will be painted and coppered. The planks (outermost if double planked) will be holly. Any comments? Thanks in advance. Bruce
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Hello Christian, I have sat down in the shade to catch up with your build. It is superb. Stay out of the sun! Regards, Bruce
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It is probably worth getting in touch with these guys: http://www.exotichardwoods.co.uk/ They trade under the name 'Timberline' and have a lot of different woods, mainly serving the musical instrument makers of this island. I have found them to be very helpful. You may be offered sheets/strips of another width but it is a start. HTH Bruce
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Hello Greenstone, Did you look in here: Hope this helps, Bruce
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‘Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging’ by Marquardt
bruce d replied to bruce d's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks Allan, gott'em. They are great and I think this book completes the story. I have been going through some sections this afternoon and am pleased to see that most of the masts/spars I have drawn so far conform, I will have to decide what to leave and what to re-think. I promised myself I would not buy books on impulse. I am trying, but it is so hard .... Bruce -
‘Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging’ by Marquardt
bruce d replied to bruce d's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I got the book. As soon as I looked at the content and format it became clear this is a summary of scantlings of the era with plain language explanations to guide the modeller. I am very glad I made the trip to the shop with the book, even though I have PDFs of some of the scantlings from that time-frame. This is what I needed: a modeller explaining the subject for the benefit of other modellers. Thanks for the help. Bruce -
‘Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging’ by Marquardt
bruce d replied to bruce d's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Jan, I think I am going to get the book. Thank you for the advice, I believe 'quite a lot of ship types' is what I need. When I narrow it down I can look for more detail of a particular type/rig. There is so much to learn! Bruce -
Hello Nils, perhaps you can find some help here: www.oldmarineengine.com/ Keep up the good work, the boat looks good. Bruce
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‘Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging’ by Marquardt Is this book as good as it looks? Thanks, Bruce
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It might be worth phoning/emailing the archive and pleading your case. I have found many (not all) archives have helpful people who can help with small requests. You don't ask, you don't get...
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I just can't leave it alone. Found these: Danish digital archive, images F417, F418
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Have you seen this thread? The piece I put through in the pictures was the maximum the saw would take. I was using an 18 tpi blade and this was a mistake. It started out slow but OK, however the blade was finished by the third log. Now I use an eight tpi blade and it cuts smoothly without overloading the 350W motor.
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Unimat 1 Classic 6 in 1 Tool 83000 Power Tool
bruce d replied to JamesT1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Excellent idea. Another excellent idea. When the time comes I will I will let you know how this works out. -
Unimat 1 Classic 6 in 1 Tool 83000 Power Tool
bruce d replied to JamesT1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Of course! How could I have missed it? On the subject of lathes for modelling (I think that was where we started) the Unimat SL collection of accessories was pretty much complete within a few years of the launch. Milling, dividing, collets and thread cutting were all early options and were popular with watchmakers and jewellers as well as model makers. I have an iron bed early model, two mazac bed later models and a bastardised iron bed that was cut in half and 'stretched' by mounting the two halves on a long bed for making drumsticks! I have no idea what I will eventually do with this long-bed beast but I felt sorry for it and gave it a warm home. Maybe masts? -
Unimat 1 Classic 6 in 1 Tool 83000 Power Tool
bruce d replied to JamesT1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Bob, just a detail in the history of this marque: the Unimat lathes were designed and manufactured by Maier & Company in Austria. The Elliot Machine Company (EMCO) was the UK distributor for the range and had their name on the badge of the models they sold. There was more than one distributor in North America. In my opiinion, the fully equipped SL model, marketed as the DB in North America, will probably never be bettered as a modelmaker's lathe. -
Unimat 1 Classic 6 in 1 Tool 83000 Power Tool
bruce d replied to JamesT1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
James, what is it you want to do with a lathe? And by the way, which part of the world are you in if you don't mind me asking? -
Unimat 1 Classic 6 in 1 Tool 83000 Power Tool
bruce d replied to JamesT1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is a very basic tool so be sure it is adequate for whatever you need to do. Some have only battery power and I do not believe any useful work can be produced without the optional mains adapter. I own one, which came as part of a larger purchase in a workshop clearout sale, and have tried a few basic moves on it. It will never be my 'go-to' but it did work. The main chucks use an M12x1 thread which is identical to that used on the original (1950s to '70s) Unimat SL/DB range. However, despite being interchangable, the chuck for the Unimat 1 in your picture is an injection-moulded plastic item. OK for really light work but it was never meant to work hard for a living. It all depends on what you expect to do with a lathe. This is a tool designed to be safe as a child's first serious workshop tool. It will not do any heavy work but it will do light jobs with a good level of controlability, and this may be adequate for your needs. It will not have a long life. I will defer to anyone who has good experience with a Unimat 1 but, personally, unless the price is really low (and your expectations are modest) I would point you toward a 'proper' small second-hand lathe or a Dremel kit (Proxxon if the budget allows). One last warning: some sellers are asking absurd prices for these. Check ebay and you will see a wide range of final prices. HTH Bruce -
More from the Danish digital collection: https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189068,31896754 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189069,31896804 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189070,31896806 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189737,31916662 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189738,31916754 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189739,31916873 Thats a lot of stoves.
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... and then I realised that there were even more in this collection: https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189067,31896643 HTH Bruce
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