bruce d

https://www.wood-database.com/?s=briar HTH Bruce

Have you seen this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Axminster-Sleeveless-Sanding-Drum-25mm-x-75mm/351794312321?epid=1279424135&hash=item51e8933481:g:9PcAAOSwfKRc0svT HTH Bruce

Well Maury, that is a very useful description. Many thanks for taking the time to spell it out. I have some thinking to do now. Regards, Bruce

Yes please, Maury. I have been admiring the build and wondering how much the gantry helped. I have just made and then scrapped a gantry, yours looks much more useful. Great job. Bruce

Chris, did you see this earlier thread?

Yep. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/9-members-build-logs/ They are in the forums, see 'browse' at top left of page, choose 'forums' and the build logs are divided into kits and scratch-builds, plus lottsa good sub-types. I suggest you choose a comfortable chair because there is a lot to trawl through. Bruce

Hello Calvin and welcome to MSW. This is a great place for good advice and we look forward to seeing your progress. You have already had a 'heads up' concerning starting with a big project: I also am in at the deep end with my first build, a scratch build, and have recieved good advice of a similar nature. I decided on a couple of smaller projects to practice on before going further in to my big build and it is so far proving to be worth while. I will post some of these little 'uns soon. It is a good idea to study the build logs, some are by first-timers who have gone down the same path you are about to travel and have tackled the what-do-I-do-now moments with help from the members. It is a pretty friendly place. Have fun, it is your boat. Regards, Bruce

Looks good to me. I'll be interested to hear how you get on with Velcro. It might actually be a good thing to have a bit of 'squish' in the process provided it squishes consistently across the width. Bruce

Inspiring.

Jeff, he's a saint, you shouldn't swear at him. Welcome to MSW! Bruce

Hi Steve, There are a few Hacker boats in this ... https://issuu.com/mecumauction/docs/warnercatalog ... including a few cockpit views. The instrument panels remind me of a Ford Model A interior. HTH Bruce

https://archive.org/download/NewhallShipChandlery1899Catalog/Newhall Ship Chandlery 1899 Catalog.pdf Lots of pictures, bits and pieces. Bruce

Neon and fireworks. Although some pieces in my stash have straight, milky white grain the rest is contrasting rings. It carves very well and has closed pores in the yellow parts tending to open pores in the whitest areas. The most appealing feature of this wood, and the reason I am thinking about using it, is the carving. Bruce

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=depth&PN=RULE-DEPTH-GAUGE-12435.html#SID=381 In the UK, not sure where you are. I have used RDG for a looooong time and they are good on customer service. HTH Bruce

A much under-rated quality. 😎

Hello Bob, Yes, it is a wonderful resource which I was introduced to by an earlier thread in the forum. This wood was considered a superior choice in the past for furniture and house trim and that is the source of my modest stash. I don't have enough to make a useful wardrobe (the ideal use for this aromatic wood) but more than enough for a ship's hull and base. Besides the general question, because you never know what will pop up, the particular point I was curious about was how it acts when bonded to another wood. It has resins, as all cedars do, and strong aromatic properties. Both could cause 'issues'. Any problems? Pretty sure I will use some but it seemed wise to tap into the collective (and vast) wisdom of this forum. Bruce

Hello, Does anyone have experience using a wood called ‘Cedar of Lebanon’? Wiki says ‘Cedrus libani, commonly known as the cedar of Lebanon or Lebanon cedar, is a species of cedar native to the mountains of the Eastern Mediterranean basin.’ I have a small, well seasoned stash of this. It is very easy to work with and takes an edge beautifully, but all the information I have found refers to large applications like doors and wardrobes. I have nothing to tell me how it behaves in small projects where it might be bonded to another wood: for example, is it stable enough to be used in bread-and-butter hulls? Any thoughts appreciated. Bruce

Very nice, Nils. I like the subject and the way you are approaching the build. By the way, have you formed an opinion on the plane you showed in post#21 yet? Bruce

... and the dirt in that part of Georgia is red clay. More red, just what you want! Bruce

Absolutely. And be sure to order the two front-and-back images to be printed 'emulsion to emulsion'. It is worth shopping around as prices vary.

Thomas, John has given good advice. To add my two cents' worth, I cannot emphasize enough how important registration is if etching from both sides. Have a go at etching, there are several good YouTube guides and I suggest you find one that you feel suits your capabilities and facilities: some of the jeweler's processes can look very casual and amateurish but the fact is they work for those people. However, modellers who need through-etching are not well served by YouTube, and the reason is the difficulty of registering artwork produced without professional equipment. It can be done but the smaller the piece the easier (and the greater the chance of success.) Brian King's book (in the link in earlier post) is useful but the key to success in 2019 is to use the facilities available in 2019. The etching part of the process is within the grasp of any amateur willing to approach the task methodically, but getting the image onto the workpiece is, and always has been, the 'the trick'. Assuming you are going to use a photoreactive etch resist on your workpiece, finding out how your printer performs when given the task of printing mirror-image versions of an image is the first task. The reason is that you will need two images, exact mirror-images of each other, printed on clear sheet to be placed on either side of the workpiece. The image on these sheets must align perfectly, and this is where home printers may let you down. A slight skew or distortion in most printing jobs is invisible and will never matter at all but in this task any difference in the two images will produce an inferior etching. Also, the image toner must be on the surface that is against the etch resist that will be exposed. If it is not then the light will diffuse through the thickness of the sheet and give a false edge, which translates into a soft/poorly defined edge on the developed resist. Having an expensive printer is no guarantee of this particular characteristic. This task is not what modern printers were designed to do with great accuracy so it is necessary to test (you may find that the output of the printer is best in one part of the printed page, such as the middle or bottom, and that is where you will have to place the image). It is easy to see why size matters. There are build logs on the forum that include home etched components. It would be a good idea to study them and see if they match what you want to achieve and are willing to do. HTH Bruce

Can you say how big, and what thickness material? One side surface etching or all the way through? Everything is possible. Bruce

That was not uncommon in immediate post-war UK publications. For this subject, the author would have needed permission from His Majesty's government to write it even before it went to publication and it is quite possible that he was forbidden from naming sources. Bruce

It looks identical to one I got 40 years ago, and yes, it was great and I used it for everything. My one 'improvement' to it was to tape a small bit of wood under the spot where my thumb rested to give a more positive feel to the grip. It lasted for years of heavy use and one day grew wings and vanished. Bruce