bruce d
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Hello irishrover1970, As a newbie I also wondered what books/guides were good and what was 'less than' good. I found the Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay great, as you will have read in post #14 by JerseyCityFrankie but my education on the subject took a great leap forward when I got 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' by C. Nepean Longridge. This great work explains what the parts of a wooden ship are and how they work together: it finally made sense of many of the other instructions and guidelines by enabling me to understand what the devil they were talking about. I have not reconciled the names of parts of a Viking ship with the names in use by an English shipyard from the age of Nelson, but the book's illustrations are very good at showing what goes where and it can only help. I am making a set of drawings for my modelling subject and it is a LOT easier now that I have that book. Good luck with your model, there is a lot of good advice available here. Bruce -
source for steel bar stock?
bruce d replied to Griphos's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Griphos, Have you tried contacting any local engineering firms? They may have F1 or a suitable alternative sitting on their shelves. If you want modest amounts you might find them able to help instantly. HTH Bruce -
Locomotives evolved, the kit shows a later stage. If I recall correctly, there is no definitive record of the original valve gear, just a generic description. It would be a big job to convert anyway since it probably would mean fabricationg new wheels as well. It looks good straight from the box. The struggle for possesion of General got nasty. You might say it was ... a war between the states. Bruce
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The original is (still?) on display in a dedicated museum in Kennesaw GA. Tennessee and Georgia fought over ownership of the General for ages. Be aware, the running gear is not period correct for the Civil War, it is a later modification and the kit represents the modication. Bruce
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After seeing your build I am tempted to get this kit so I have been digging. I am fascinated by the look of these craft and hope to find some reliable accounts of how they were used in action. Bruce
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Found this, good view of deck arrangement. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Decked_kanonjolle1.jpg HTH Bruce
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Therer are more, if you have trouble finding them please let me know. Bruce
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See National Maritime Museum collections: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79963.html "Object ID ZAZ0172 Description Plan showing the body plan, sheer lines with inboard detail, and longitudinal half-breadth for 'Montanes' (1794), a Spanish 74-gun two-decker. Signed by Julian Martin de Retamosa [Shipbuilder and designer, and Lieutenant General of the Spanish Royal Navy]. Date made 1 December 1812" HTH Bruce
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Oliver, one more offering: have you searched keyword 'Spanish' in the National Maritime Museum ship plans collection? There are a few plans there of captured ships, such as the two below. There is also a plan of Montagnes. HTH Bruce
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Hi Oliver, You might find some useful stuff here ... https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/1789-spanish-ship-plans-rare-scans/ Hope this helps, Bruce
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Are light-ships of any use to you? There are a few more like this plus equipment drawings. Regards, Bruce
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Jean-Paul, I like the look of the different woods and textures. Can I ask what wood are you using for the deck planking? Bruce
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Thank you, Kevin, I was about to start looking for advice on quartersawing and here it is! Bruce
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Straightening thin brass wire
bruce d replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
The bead roller is perfect, but if you don't have one there is a simple method that works on small and large gauges: get it as straight as you can with your fingers and then roll the wire between two pieces of glass. The ruler trick works but the larger surface area of the glass makes it easier to control. You may need to 'feed' the wire in from one end to start but once you get that first part straight it gets easier. A FLAT piece of tile or the kitchen worktop will also work. Wires come in standard diameters called gauges and any electrical supply shop can provide additional lengths. If it is to be used as, for example, a handrail on a stairwell, a nice effect is to pinch the end slightly to produce a flared handhold. I used to do this often but for a work-related reason. HTH Bruce -
Thank you, Paul. I have put the links in my favourites. Regards, Bruce
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Many thanks for the welcome. The subject of ‘change’ is always interesting and I agree absolutely with the observations that once-upon-a-time scratchbuilding was the norm. I am delighted to see the high standards of modern kits and chose to start with a a blank sheet mostly because, based on other events in the past, I enjoy the research and preparation as much as the building. I imagine one major difference in the working space will be the amount of dust and debris I will create compared to building a similar size kit. Thunder, you are right but I am lucky enough to be within range of this place: http://www.exotichardwoods.co.uk/ … and Cornwall Model Boats has a mail order service I have been told is very good. Also, I have a stash of fruit woods I can harvest. Regards, Bruce
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Hello, my name is Bruce and I am, at last, beginning a wooden model of a ship. This forum and website have already played a part in the process by showing what others have done, giving answers and ‘de-mystifying’ some of the steps. It would probably be smarter if I started with a kit but I have decided to scratchbuild. This is not quite as brave as it may sound (or perhaps the experienced readers will not think ‘brave’, rather more like ‘naive’?) but either way I have been fortunate in finding a set of plans for a similar boat which I am adapting to my dimensions. I will post a build thread later and give details as well as the reasoning behind the decision to scratchbuild. For now, I am working on the plans. About me: I have recently retired and am sorting space in the garage for the build. I am a stickler for details and a newbie, a combination that is guaranteed to produce mistakes, hopefully rectifiable. One thing that has impressed me about this forum is the willingness to pass on honest observations, so if you see me headed for trouble, please go ahead and say so. I am looking forward to my new hobby. Bruce
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Thanks, it is a vast archive and I had hoped for a 'short-cut' to the interesting boat. If I find it I will post it. Bruce
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Yes, I see it too. DPK, if you got this image from the Dansk Museum would you mind giving me the Image File Reference (A124c etc.)? Chris, seeing your build makes me want one. Regards, Bruce
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Chris, I am new to this thread, so maybe this has already been established. Is this the same ship? Bruce
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Hi torpedochief, nice explanation. Just a further point for anyone looking at this process: make sure the tub for the etchant is ABSOLUTELY DRY before pouring in the ferric chloride, with no splashed drops of water at all. The acid and the water don't socialize well. Since this process is for etching thin brass from one side you can seal the back with a good coat of any spray auto paint or primer. Test first if in doubt. HTH, Bruce
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Hello David, I found it on the Games Lab Forum, sadly without a source. https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/19749-proposed-british-kickstarter-pack-with-plans/?tab=comments#comment-393240 It is near the beginning of the long thread described as '18 Guns Ship'. Regards, Bruce
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… and here is a plan of CYANE, another sister ship, as she was when captured.
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David, quite right, sorry about that. These are for Banterer class craft of the right era although not built at South Shields: J4309, J4307, J4305 and J4310. Bruce
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Hello David, There are plans for Banterer in the National Maritime Museum, collections ADBB0595, ADRB0126 and ADFB0016. Regards, Bruce
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