bruce d
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These from the Danish museum may help: HTH Bruce
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There is a feature on Hacker designs on pages 33-4 of the PDF in this link: https://archive.org/details/ruddervolume00unkngoog/page/n29?q=zipper+hydroplane ... and pages 398, 556 as well. I tried to attach the PDF but it was I believe too large, hope the link works. Aren't these old hot-rod boats great? Bruce
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It was. Have you seen this? https://www.vandamboats.com/special-hydroplane-wooden-race-boat/ HTH Bruce
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The English Wiki page for Danish oil is here... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil However, just to spread the news, a few years ago I found that the oil IKEA sells for sealing their kitchen worktops is NOT the same as the Danish oil product we in the UK know. The IKEA oil is similar but has a lighter, more stable colour and is reputed to slow the rate the wood below it changes colour with age. I am about to make some tests and if it does have this magical property I will probably use it on the exposed wood of my model. Christian, I really like what you are doing. Bruce
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Thanks to all that replied, and especially Gregory for observing that I can leave out a couple of the illustrated components: always happy to find that there is less to do than I had imagined. Bruce
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I don't want to put you on the spot (well, maybe a little...) but the first subject in the Petersson book is the only one that affects me: it is "The British Naval Cutter", based on a model in the Science Museum. Is this one of the 'pure nonsense' items? Will I regret using his instructions? Thanks, just trying to get it right and glad I found this pool of knowledge. Bruce
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Hello JerseyCity Frankie, Well that got my attention. I was planning on using the book as a guide in my first-ever rigging exercise. Would you mind elaborating? Are all the subjects in the book wrongly described or is it one in particular? Thanks, Bruce
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Surface rust can be dealt with by electrolysis. If you haven't tried this process before I am happy to tell you that is very easy and it works. Don't be too concerned about equipment, I have used an old phone charger for the last few years to clean up small items. Here is a good starting point: https://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ HTH Bruce
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Hello irishrover1970, As a newbie I also wondered what books/guides were good and what was 'less than' good. I found the Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay great, as you will have read in post #14 by JerseyCityFrankie but my education on the subject took a great leap forward when I got 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' by C. Nepean Longridge. This great work explains what the parts of a wooden ship are and how they work together: it finally made sense of many of the other instructions and guidelines by enabling me to understand what the devil they were talking about. I have not reconciled the names of parts of a Viking ship with the names in use by an English shipyard from the age of Nelson, but the book's illustrations are very good at showing what goes where and it can only help. I am making a set of drawings for my modelling subject and it is a LOT easier now that I have that book. Good luck with your model, there is a lot of good advice available here. Bruce
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source for steel bar stock?
bruce d replied to Griphos's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Griphos, Have you tried contacting any local engineering firms? They may have F1 or a suitable alternative sitting on their shelves. If you want modest amounts you might find them able to help instantly. HTH Bruce -
Locomotives evolved, the kit shows a later stage. If I recall correctly, there is no definitive record of the original valve gear, just a generic description. It would be a big job to convert anyway since it probably would mean fabricationg new wheels as well. It looks good straight from the box. The struggle for possesion of General got nasty. You might say it was ... a war between the states. Bruce
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The original is (still?) on display in a dedicated museum in Kennesaw GA. Tennessee and Georgia fought over ownership of the General for ages. Be aware, the running gear is not period correct for the Civil War, it is a later modification and the kit represents the modication. Bruce
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After seeing your build I am tempted to get this kit so I have been digging. I am fascinated by the look of these craft and hope to find some reliable accounts of how they were used in action. Bruce
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Found this, good view of deck arrangement. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Decked_kanonjolle1.jpg HTH Bruce
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Therer are more, if you have trouble finding them please let me know. Bruce
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See National Maritime Museum collections: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79963.html "Object ID ZAZ0172 Description Plan showing the body plan, sheer lines with inboard detail, and longitudinal half-breadth for 'Montanes' (1794), a Spanish 74-gun two-decker. Signed by Julian Martin de Retamosa [Shipbuilder and designer, and Lieutenant General of the Spanish Royal Navy]. Date made 1 December 1812" HTH Bruce
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Oliver, one more offering: have you searched keyword 'Spanish' in the National Maritime Museum ship plans collection? There are a few plans there of captured ships, such as the two below. There is also a plan of Montagnes. HTH Bruce
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Hi Oliver, You might find some useful stuff here ... https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/1789-spanish-ship-plans-rare-scans/ Hope this helps, Bruce
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Are light-ships of any use to you? There are a few more like this plus equipment drawings. Regards, Bruce
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Jean-Paul, I like the look of the different woods and textures. Can I ask what wood are you using for the deck planking? Bruce
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Thank you, Kevin, I was about to start looking for advice on quartersawing and here it is! Bruce
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Straightening thin brass wire
bruce d replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
The bead roller is perfect, but if you don't have one there is a simple method that works on small and large gauges: get it as straight as you can with your fingers and then roll the wire between two pieces of glass. The ruler trick works but the larger surface area of the glass makes it easier to control. You may need to 'feed' the wire in from one end to start but once you get that first part straight it gets easier. A FLAT piece of tile or the kitchen worktop will also work. Wires come in standard diameters called gauges and any electrical supply shop can provide additional lengths. If it is to be used as, for example, a handrail on a stairwell, a nice effect is to pinch the end slightly to produce a flared handhold. I used to do this often but for a work-related reason. HTH Bruce -
Thank you, Paul. I have put the links in my favourites. Regards, Bruce
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Many thanks for the welcome. The subject of ‘change’ is always interesting and I agree absolutely with the observations that once-upon-a-time scratchbuilding was the norm. I am delighted to see the high standards of modern kits and chose to start with a a blank sheet mostly because, based on other events in the past, I enjoy the research and preparation as much as the building. I imagine one major difference in the working space will be the amount of dust and debris I will create compared to building a similar size kit. Thunder, you are right but I am lucky enough to be within range of this place: http://www.exotichardwoods.co.uk/ … and Cornwall Model Boats has a mail order service I have been told is very good. Also, I have a stash of fruit woods I can harvest. Regards, Bruce
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