RussR

There is a good thread here on Model Ship World titled " Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW".

2 hours ago, Mike Y said:

Same as Dave, the best way to fix KS115 problems is to buy Proxxon FET and advise everybody to do the same. It is a classical example of spending money on a cheaper tool, ending up spending more money on a proper tool. KS115 is, honestly, a junk  (I had it, upgraded to FET and never looked back).

It is hard to use the table saw if you can't event adjust the blade height, and the precision is super bad (fence alignment, miter gage, etc). You also can't make any sleds for this saw, since there is only one miter channel instead of two. Its real price should be around $30, there are "saws" in this range on AliExpress and Harbour Freight. But they are asking $130 for it 😳

This would be great it one had unlimited space and unlimited funds.

For me a KS115 is a big upgrade from a miter box and a hobby saw. 

Thanks for the comment.

RussR

15 minutes ago, druxey said:

I bought this saw before the Byrnes' saw came on the market. The original fence is problematic. However, fitted with an Accurizer II fence, the problem is solved.

druxey,

This would probably solve the problem. With shipping and all, this would cost 150% of what I paid for the saw. 

At this point I think I can live with 0.5mm tolarance. 

Thanks for your input. It is much appreciated.

RussR

Brian,

You are "probablyright". Dressing the screw to a point would screw it up for good.

I just now checked to see if there was any debris on any of the surface you mentioned. There was none.

The variance isn't consistent. I did clean the fence and table with no effect. But I did notice pits where the screw made contact with the table. So I used a sanding block and to smooth out the pits.

Now the variance is about 0.5mm across the full length of the fence. I guess for a $50.00 saw, what can one expect. 

Thanks for putting me on the right track.

RussR

I bought a used Proxxon Bench Circular Saw KS115, and it works great. But there is one problem with it. When I try to set the fence it tries to cant in at an angle to the blade.  

My thinking is, if the adjustment screw was ground to a center this wouldn't happen. But the way it is made that can't happen. The only way I can think of to fix this is to buy a machine screw and and cut the head off and chuck it up in a drill motor or better yet a lath and dress the end up. Then make a knob for it.

Can anyone think of a better solution? 

Photo the the type saw:

Mm

Messis,

I am enjoying your build log. 

I have read that some modelers use hairspray and a fan to get the effect of wind in there sails. I don't have experience with it myself but it sounded good.

RussR

On 7/10/2018 at 12:12 AM, MESSIS said:

Shipyard has reopend since yesterday. Vacations are over 😣. Here we go again...

MESSI,

I would love to see your more of your vacation photos of the ship Hermione. 

RussR

Hello Christos,

I have also ordered this model with the crew figures. 

Would you send me the paint colors you wrote about here in your log?

I tried to send you a message here in MSW but your box must be full and can't except anymore.

PS: I hope my ship turns out a well as yours

RussR

It is interesting to note the number of starts to the number of finishes.

                           Starts     Finishes

Wooden Ships       1673       308

Small Craft             235       107

Plastic/Resin           172        34

XSect/Guns/Dior       52        14

Ships in Bottles         23        12

RadioControled         20         4

Restorations             14         4

Looks like there is a lot still being built or given up on.

26 minutes ago, Mike Dowling said:

That's one idea but the bank manager won't like it.

I know what you mean, I am surprised that I get away with what I do.

"Boys need there toys".

My vote is "not covered.

That is a lot of work to be covered forever.

54 minutes ago, Mike Dowling said:

What do others think because I can't make up my mind ?

 

That shouldn't be a problem, just do two of them. One covered and one not covered. 

Thanks WackoWolf,

My order is in for some real drill bits. I am tired of buying what just looks like drill bits.

Thanks, Gregory and Lou, for those great ideas.

What was suggested so far I think is doable.

I think that the author of the video's intent was what he built with only what was handy.

Kind of like a "MaGyver Project".

Russ

31 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Something like this:

 

12V Motor on Amazon

 

Power supply

 

Just search for 12v DC motor..

Gregory,

Thanks for the info. So it would cost about $20.00 plus some styren or wood and a couple of connectors and a switch. One might even run it on eight D-cells if you didn't plan on using it much.

4 minutes ago, miloman said:

Do you know what type of motor was used and the power source. I'm a real neophyte at this....Allan

Sorry I don't. I just saw the video and though it may be of interest to others. May be someone else here would have some suggestions.

RussR

Not long ago I ask how to cut a piece of 30mm X 4mm X 4mm into four equal parts and received many great ideas.

Just now I found a video on YouTube "How To Make Mini Cutting Machine Cut Popsicle Sticks". I haven't made one but I admire the creative thoughts of some people.

I have downloaded this and hopefully I can upload it here.

RussR

How To Make Mini Cutting Machine Cut Popsicle Sticks.webm

I appreciate all you guys input on my little problem. All of your ideas are well taken and filed away in my mental bank for future recall.

What I had done was I found a piece of 3/16" square junk wood and cut it to 7mm length and sanded two edges to 4mm. I just painted them. Since they are so small I think it will look like it was planed.

At this point in my skill level I bought an AL model of the 1805 Pilot Boat for $35.00 on eBay to practice on. My skills are far from perfect at this point. It is doubtful if I will even display it. I am learning a lot. But it gives my pea brain something to do. Like they sayl "you learn by doing".

Thanks again.

RussR

Dave, that is a good idea.

I only wish we had a local model shop. The closest thing we have to a model shop is Hobby Lobby or one that is about 60 miles away. And they sell mostly plastic.

I'll have to make do with what is available.

Thanks for the reply

RussR

That was my though, but I have to think about cutting the last piece into two.  I would have to be able to hold a very tiny piece and cut it.

At this point I am thinking I would be better off to just buying some 4mm X 4mm basswood stock at Hobby Lobby and cut it with my 2" cut off power saw. The trade off is I would need to either paint them or stain them.

My complaint with kit manufacturers is they don't put dimensions on there drawings.  And they don't consider how the builder is to do what is required for a good out come.

I am looking forward to the day that I reach a point to start scratch building from plans.

Thanks again for the reply.

Jan,

Thanks for the reply

No.

It is to be cut into roughly 7mm lengths.

Sorry that I wasn't clear bout that.

The model that I am working on requires that I cut a piece of 30mm X 4mm X 4mm walnut into 4 equal pieces. I considered using my exacto hobby saw. It is probably to thick for side cutters. It is probably to small for a 2" power cut off saw.

What do you old "Salts" recommend?

RussR

This may be old news for some, but I just found these two videos on YouTube that was very interesting to me.

The site won't let me post the link. You will have to do a search on youtube.

"Flagship Endeavour Ship - The Launch / HM Bark Endeavour Replica / 9 December 1993 HD"

And the other one is "HM Bark ENDEAVOUR, 1999, 18th century sail training".

RussR

I finished a 18th century longboat for my 1st build and learn a lot. I think a 1st scratch build would be the same 18th century longboat but in a larger scale.

Okay,

I own the Dremel 3000 and the drill press adapter and it works good enough for model building etc. Also I own the router attachment but haven't used it so at this point I don't have a opinion. But for a hobby tool how good does it have to be?

For a tool to make my living I want the best quality.

I own one with the 4486 keyless chuck and don't have any complaints. But it isn't set up all the time. For a grab and go tool I just use a cheap $9.95 tool that I bought at Harbor Freight. 

I am just curios, why do people buy something and then ask for opinions later. Shouldn't it be the other way around?

I don't like to tell someone they screwed up.