aliluke

Bob- More fool me I should have read your text more carefully. It is all looking brilliant.

Beautiful work Bob - the stern looks fantastic - just spot on.

One wee note - which you can choose to ignore - the rudder hinges should be in copper and not represented as iron. Visually, I actually like the iron representation that you have gone with but it would produce a catalytic reaction leading to quick decay and they, the hinges, were coppered or in copper to prevent this. I think Dirk, (Dubz) discusses this in his Syren log.

Louis

I agree with everything Jason says. You have quite a bit of fairing to do - take your time.

Martin

Certainly that fore hatch is a ladder hatch. I've built one for it and that is how I will portray it. That is the only ladder I'll be showing from the main deck downwards. The aft most hatch is also a ladder hatch but I have put a grating in that one.

Stunning work Michael. The gratings look superb but everything else does as well.

Very fine stuff Bob. Perfect knees - all else is as well. Your work is inspiring to say the least.

Superb work Robert, I turn my head and suddenly see you rocketing along. Great stuff.

Very elegant. The seeming simplicity of this ship I'm sure understates the complexity of making a model of it. Love it - well done!

Hi Mike

All my bulkheads and false keel on Fly were in plywood. There is nothing wrong with MDF just don't wet it! It will absorb moisture and expand.

The deck ply for my Fly kit is just fine - in fact all of the parts are. I believe Spyglass got a bad run on the deck ply but I'm not sure why.

I'm not sure about the size of the bitts but I don't care as I'm making my own anyway to the dimensions in the FFM.

Hi Jesse

Your work is fantastic. Taking on the belaying pins is commitment indeed and well worth it!

Carry on and keep ship modelling!

Looks darn good to me Martin. I hardly rounded the corners at all. Just a little snip on the top leg of the box joint.

Are you putting a ladder in that fore hatch?

Looks really good Brett. You can keep that natural finish with pride.

Middle of winter here too of course. Blue skies, no wind but hell we struggle to muster 21 degrees in summer!

Hi Louis

I've had a closer look at your photos. To be blunt- you are in trouble. You really need to take a step back. The model is founded on the plywood patterns, bulkheads and first planking. You need fillers between the bulkheads - see my log - and much more fairing of the bulkheads. The plywood pattern must follow the flow of the hull. If it is flat and the planks below it angle down it is wrong. This, by your photos, is what you have made. Sanding and filling will not fix this. You will really struggle from here on if these issues aren't fixed and the kit and your investment in it deserves better. There is joy to be had in making these things but I see pain ahead for you.

I do not like saying this and you don't want to hear it, but to continue, with success, you have to undo the plywood gun port pattern and all of the planking to date. This is my opinion. This forum would be pointless if I couldn't express this and I hate to see model makers fall at the first hurdle and then disappear.

Hi Jason

I had a warp in my Fly false keel. Perhaps not as bad as yours. I soaked it for a good while and weighted it with steel angles = very heavy weights. I think I left for 2 to 3 days until it was completely dry. The rust from the steel made it look really ugly but it worked.

Hi Louis. Speedy progress by you.

Some comments:

I agree with Jason, getting the turn up of the planks to the lower counter at the stern correct is very important even on the first layer. I think your planking looks a little loose there at the moment.

At the bow the planks should all be tapered so that they all meet the stem. That is the lower planks shouldn't turn up to butt into a planking band above them as you have done. This doesn't matter on the first layer but is worth pursuing on the second layer. To do it, only the first plank below the plywood pattern is not tapered. Every other plank is and the taper needs to start quite a long way back on the hull.

I think there are some good photos of the bow planking in Blue Ensigns log and there is a photo of my stern planking in my log.

Keep enjoying yourself!!

Looking forward to this Mike.

With an unpainted approach will you be using the PE brass friezes that run along the hull?

I also have Bob Hunt's practicum - bought years ago in a bulk buy deal he did - but it is a very strange read in places. He goes completely off topic and complains about his eyesight and the state of the economy etc. The rigging section is actually for the Bounty. I have not used it all and feel no need to.

Nice progress Louis.

I'm guessing your deck fittings aren't fixed down yet but one small note; your riding bit is the wrong way around - the bit should be aft of the pins not forward of them.

Stunning work mate. Super crisp and accurate.

Hope you are enjoying an East Coast summer. Here it is cold, wet and dark.....

Hi Richard

Just came across your log. I like this style of ship very much.

That's a gutsy decision to re-plank the deck. My Fly model is holly from Hobby Mill. Jeff's product is very precise and the holly comes up a treat. Have a look...

Hi Nils

Although I've looked in now and again I never have said anything on your build. This is because it is the Scratch Forum while I mostly hang out in the Kit Forum .

Great work on your Pegasus - everything looks very authentic. You do have a lot of rope on the decks from the gun tackles. That is why I left the rear tackles off my Fly but that is just a choice...Anyway good stuff and keep it coming!

Can't answer your question Bob but stepping back a bit...You have certainly nailed that stern; colour, painting, detail and fabrication. Absolutely brilliant work - Bravo (worth much more than a Like!). Looking forward to seeing it the right way up - I struggle to do head stands in front of my computer screen...

Hi Louis

I'm with Spyglass here. On my log you can see an area of lower deck planking beneath the fore/ladder hatch. This is just visible when the ladder is in place.

I use an HB pencil to simulate caulking. Some do it on only one side of adjoining planks - this makes repairing any gaps easier. I do it on both and hope I don't have gaps! 

Hamilton - I'll bet you are being too hard on yourself. "Embarrass" it and we'll see. I reckon it is probably as good as anyone of us can do.

Looking forward to this Jason - a magnificent ship to model.

Hi Nicholas

All the bulkheads fitted well on my kit - no issues to alert you to excepting for the normal need to get them square, true and properly seated on the centre piece. As you'll see in other logs the gun port plywood strips are where the kit gets a little bit more challenging...