aliluke

Good luck with the carving Martin. If you can pull it off it will a lot easier to handle than the cast metal kit part.

The deck looks great - is it holly?

Wow there is so much stuff out there.

I'm fluent in Sketchup and AutoCad. I have a passing knowledge of Microstation and Archicad. I have a little bit of Revit knowledge. From all the programmes that I've engaged with Revit is the winner - no contest. For modelling a compound curved object such as a ship you need a parametric programme - none of the previous listed in my experience deliver this with ease.

Attached a chess set model I did in Sketchup - it shows its simple power and it's ability to deliver simple curves.

That said I would be looking for a more parametrically aligned programme for ships. I've no idea which would be the best one and I'm interested about the thoughts on this thread.

Driven to the wall or driven nuts...The results are fantastic. Hats off Bob. I'm going slightly mad with my little bits at the moment but I'll keep striving for fit and symmetry. There is no other way to do this craft in my opinion. Good stuff by you - I get mad too but in the morning it all feels alright.

Hi Ollie

I'm not a fan of cases - it turns a model into a massive object which I know I can't deal with in my house. So I live with the dust and the model feels much more free and delicate. Careful cleaning with a soft brush deals with the dust issue but even the dust you can't get to gives it a certain patina which I don't mind. My opinion maybe rare here on MSW...

Ollie

The cradle looks amazing - I mean that! A softer option than the pedestals but a good one. The rest of the rigging looks spot on as well. Great stuff.

The product I use is probably not available in the US - it is Wattyl interior timber putty and is water based. The product you show is non-hardening and can't be sanded. The Wattyl putty fully hardens and can be sanded. I don't pre-seal the planks first and have no issues with bleeding. My deck is holly strip.

The best way is to trial whatever you find on a few planks off the ship.

Really nice work all round Joe. Your experience shines through. I'm going to keep following - Granado is a great subject.

I'm a big fan of wood paste for the treenails - effective, fast and easy. By making the paste almost the same colour as the deck they become invisible at most angles. This is the way it should be at this scale in my opinion.

Hi Rich

I don't know anything about Victory but just found your log. Your work is looking really good.

Going back to your deck planking post...keep that caulking really fine IMHO. At 1:72 it would nearly be invisible. I know a lot of builders here go for Sharpie's or archive pens. An HB pencil does the trick for me. A thin line and no bleed into the planking.

I reckon treenailing is a good way to go. Just match your treenails to the colour of the planks using wood paste and you can't see them. I'm not trying to be being clever with that comment - you can actually see them but only at certain angles. It adds a detail that works in certain respects. I definitely do not favour black treenails and a deck covered with them like measles.

Your second planking looks top notch - I don't think I can add much more. Victory is a major mission!

Continues to look amazing Ollie. A great piece of craft.

Not sure what you have in mind for mounting but a little trick I did for the AVS is as follows:

 - Easily found brass pedestals.

- The trick is to rebate the base board so that the base of the pedestal is recessed into the base board. This is epoxy glued in place. This makes it very stable. The ships keel can then be epoxy glued onto the pedestals with no other treatment required - but I did add a panel pin from underneath into the keel. Solid as a rock. I also like the pedestal being flush to the baseboard rather than sitting on top of it.

Just a thought, you may have better plans. Attached.

Welcome Ian

Who is the manufacturer of your Bounty kit? I haven't seen one like it before and some aspects of it are a little odd - I refer to the cannons for instance. Not a criticism just a query.

P.S - I'm silly it's Billings. I thought your name was Ian Billings!

Fascinating kit Marisstella. I really like the fact that you design, manufacture them and also log them here. Not many do that - Chuck and Chris Watton come to mind. It shows a real commitment to the craft and makes me tempted to try your unique kits.

Hi Robert

Just came across your log. You are doing some really nice work there - very clean and crisp. I like the contrast you are setting up between the upper and lower planking even though I'm more a fan of the painted hull.

I'll follow along.

Hi Curtis

I echo Ken and Ryland's thoughts. I think the last photo in my first batch on my log shows the degree of fairing of the filler at the stern. A reasonable gauge is - if the first layer of planking is tending to snap at the turn up to the counter you haven't faired enough.

It looks superb Mike. I'm glad you are dusting it off for continuance.

Sharp as a tack Oliie. This has/is really turning into a wonderful model. Your first and second photos really capture that (not that your other pics don't). Great stuff.

Superb work Bob. I'm already looking forward to the end of cannon rigging and I've only done three. Doing them in batches is the way to go. The capstan looks great but everything else does too.

Hi Sal

You are doing so much precision work on Phantom that I haven't seen before on this kit. It always struck me as an awkward model to make clean and crisp. Perhaps it is but you have overcome that. Great stuff - precise, clean and crisp. It is a pleasure to look at your work.

I see John's point about a band around the mast but heck...your rigging work is superb in every way and such details, while they might add to things, are just gilding the lily.

All the deck fittings look great Ken. A launch party post installing the last four guns is well deserved!

Mere mortals look at this in awe .

Hi Curtis

I can't remember my own sequence there but I do remember following the practicum to the letter and it certainly worked. One of the best things about the practicum is how it teaches a sequence of work (which varies from the kit instructions) and I'd follow it if I was you.

Your AVS is coming on very well by the looks of it.

Good one Gary. They sure do look the part with that little detail added.

Hi Gary

I don't pre-shape the strip at all. By sequentially gluing it I just shape it as I go using a toothpick to push it into the start and finish of the curve over the trunnion.

P.S. Also when I say a long strip I mean 5 - 6 inches long - makes it very easy to hold and align.

Hi Gary

I agree with Russ. I use manila folder, thin card. Brass would be flasher but I can't get it to fold in a way that looks as good as card.

I cut a long strip of card painted black and glue it to the front of the top edge of the carriage, roll and glue it over the trunnion, glue it to the aft of the trunnion, cut the remaining length of strip off with #11 blade and then touch up the cut end with black paint. The beauty of using a long strip is that it allows much more control over the initial placement and alignment of the piece.

Some here add even more detail to this piece as the cap squares were hinged at the front and pinned at the aft end. I don't go that far. I also do them when the cannon is off the model, your situation maybe a little more tricky...

Snow in Nelson? Well it sure is cold here.

I guess I won't turn you towards a painted version but it does pick up those details...photo taken this afternoon in the sun.