aliluke

Looking really good Brian. As well as fillers at the bow I added fillers at the stern - highly recommended.

I bought my angle plates from a local steel work shop. They are used on industrial lathes, are a fraction of the Micromark cost and I'd suggest much, much sharper. You can see them in my AVS log. This note is added as I think a lot of the hobby shop tools are easily obtained from other sources at less cost and better quality. They just need a little bit of research and inventiveness to find. Jewellers and dentists tools are a good example - although in those two cases you may pay more but you pay for what you get!

I mean the curved bits above the channels that reinforce them and attach them back to the hull (I believe they are called "standards" but I could be wrong). They appear to be plywood but maybe you intend to paint them along with the channel itself?

Looking really great Ron.

A wee improvement you could try is to overlay the top edges of the standards above the channels with blackened paper or fine card? Gets rid of the plywood look?

Sounds like a great plan Mike. I look forward to seeing in unroll. Good luck with my copper technique - it is actually very easy and the effect is still holding strong in spite of much handling. I'm working those friezes at the moment will update but not an easy piece to paint let alone patina.

She is a real beaut Denis. Congratulations! A stunner and, like others say, you underrate yourself.

Hi Brian

I use water based wood paste for my treenails. I mix it so that it looks almost exactly the same colour as the deck. That way they don't stand out which I believe, at virtually any scale, is correct.

Hi Mike

I didn't have the issues with he false deck that Spyglass discusses - maybe that is a kit difference between Fly and Pegasus? One thing I added was main mast partners which reinforce the deck around that area and are correct according to the FFM.

Hi Gil

I remember lurking on your log on MSW 1 (I may have commented then but I can't remember). I never tracked it down on NRG-MSW 2 until now and have just been through it all, beginning to end. A complete pleasure.

Just wanted to say that your work is at the very pinnacle of our craft and it is an absolute joy to look at.

We crossed on the internet...nothing can be seen below the main deck except for a glimpse from the forward hatch to the lower deck. I covered this remote prospect with a few planks down there. Many here have done full cabin fit outs. They look great in the photos but virtually nothing can be seen through the window lights. Even my very poor efforts in this regard were a waste of time - you can't see anything.

I'd get some deck strips on the lower deck under that fore hatch but otherwise relax about what can been seen.

Looking very good Jason. But I wonder why you do this off the model? That is why do you not install the false deck and plank in place? Just intrigued by your approach...

Hi Brian

The kit itself is less than half the total material cost if you want to do it justice. Welcome to our madness!

That said there are a lot of "out of the box" AVS's that look perfectly fine. It is about how much you feel you need to improve it and which improvements really count. Ropes and blocks get a big tick as does the decking. Aside from that the kit serves very well in all its bits.

With your after market parts you'll make a great model. I enjoy looking at mine every day! And I'll enjoy seeing yours come about.

Thanks Chuck

Hear what you are saying. I can get access to a laser cutter but I'm kind of opposed, in my own workshop, to anything except hand tools (well it is my wife that is...). That said, getting a scroll saw seems to be about a base line for scratch building so I may have to invest and hide it somewhere. Then there's the drill press...and...

Good to see the prospect is filled out with turned gunnades. However you furnish it and package it, it is looking really tempting. I'll wait for your decisions on that and just keep watching for the time being.

Thanks

Hi Dave

Just found your log and looked through it. Fantastic work - I don't have a patch on you! Now that I've penned in I will follow.

That looks seriously good. With your access to plywood and a laser cutter will you be offering pre-cut bulkheads and a centre keel with the plans as part of a package? I realise that heads you towards a full kit supply as I'd guess gun, rope and blocks from you could be packaged in as well. I'd certainly be interested in a bigger package combined with Jeff Hayes timbers. But that might be an expansion path that you don't want to go down...

In any case looking forward to more as this unfolds!

That is looking great Joe. Working the strakes to that extent is well worth the effort. Fantastic work.

Yep she is a well made kit. Mine was plywood rather than MDF and I had some warping issues but once they were corrected she fit together like a glove. You are looking good - racing along. Keep enjoying!

I'm another who has been looking forward to this one. Seems like we won't have to wait long for progress. Great!

It looks superb to my eye Bob. Not sure you need that grumpy face if I'd made those head works I'd .

Very nice work. The rudder looks spot on. A very clever idea for bending the stern decoration - I wish I'd thought of that!

Hi Mike

Wow that is seriously nice work. We all know how hard some of these wee parts are. You have done an amazing job. The interior of the stern is a stand out. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to more.

Smart work there Brian. Similar to what I did but you are probably more thorough than I was. You are on your way to a very good hull foundation.

Superb work on those anchors. That is dedication to craft and art of the highest order!

Brian

All that is typical of this kit. You just have to gently work each piece for a fit. All the char should be removed and then you shape, shim and fair until you get the right flow for the planking. It is common to many kits and particularly common for this one. Even the Amati/Victory models are not perfect in this respect but are better than most. You just have to suck it up and work those pieces. It'll be fine if you take your time.

P.S Russ jumped in while I was posting. Sure get another set from ME but I doubt it will make any difference. You just have to work it. Make sure you get these parts resolved - the entire model depends on its frame. I went back and forth on this stuff but when you get there it works...Yes, a good laser cutter with good plans would be nice but I think ME might be a bit lazy in this department. Just work it and you'll be fine.

Very nice work on the rigging Ken. You are on the home straight now.

Worth the wait in my opinion!!