tlevine

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos.


 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 


Un Saluto.

thank you
and a few more

Hello gentlemen,
Small progression ...




















That's all for today !
See you later ...
Patrick


 

Brian, it is not up on the website yet.  Please either call or email the office (both are found here: https://www.thenrg.org/contact-us.php).  
 

In order to keep the planks from becoming to wide aft, a stealer will be required.  This extra plank "steals" some wood from one or two adjacent planks, hence the name.  There are two types of stealers: half-checked and quarter-checked.  With a half-checked stealer a notch one-half the width of the plank is made in the plank below the stealer; in a quarter-checked stealer a notch is made one-quarter the width of the planks above and below the stealer.  I hope the drawings clarify this.

A big question is where to put the stealer.  As a rule, a stealer would be placed where the arc of the run of planking no longer parallels the wale.  The fore end of the stealer extends as far as necessary to maintain a smooth run of planking.  Look at the picture below.  This nothing more than a piece of thread with a knot tied in it and secured to a random frame.  The lower leg is along the border between the lower and middle planking belts.  The upper leg is paralleling the arc of the wale.  On the deadwood, in pencil, are evenly spaced marks for the ends of the planks of the lower and middle belts (four planks in the lower belt and five in the middle because of the stealer).  Play around with the fore end of the string (lengthwise and vertically) to decide where the stealer should be located.  Now look at the surrounding plank butts and make sure that the tip of the stealer is at least one row away from a plank butt.
You will probably find that the tip of your stealer will land between frames.  I glued a spacer between Frames F and G for this reason.  The following pictures show a quarter-checked stealer drawn onto the spacer with and without the string.  My other models were made with a quarter-checked stealer; this one will be made with a half-checked stealer.  No reason other than to do it differently.  The quarter-checked stealer is actually more difficult to make and the description of making it can be found in the kit manual.


 

Now that the garboard and broad strakes are completed, it is time to develop the planking belts.  I have chosen three belts of four planks each.  One could also do two belts of six planks.  I simply find the narrower belts easier to work with.  The midships area is easy...divide the frame by three.  But fore and aft, the relative width of the belts will change.  There will be a stealer aft and a dropped plank fore to compensate for this.  What is needed now is an aesthetic series of lines for the belts.  Play with it until you are happy; again, try and avoid the smiley-face look at the bow.

Mark the location of the belts on the frames.  On the frames are a series of hash marks on the side of the frames.  You can see some of them in the photo above.  These represent the locations for the top of the garboard and broad strakes and belt lines on my first build of the kit (this is number 5!).  They are a good starting point but I discovered that each build was a little different, depending on the fairing and the actual width of the wider planks.
 
Make a tic strip for each frames.  Mark the planking belts and the bottom of the wale on them.  Frames C through 2 were identical which is why there are no strips on several of the frames.  Remove the tic strips from the frames and divide the lower belt into four equal divisions.  Either eyeball it or use a caliper.
 

It is time to figure out the planking scheme.  Initially, I spent over an hour to figure this out.  Ships were planked in either three-butt shifts or four-butt shifts.  This ship will be planked with a four-butt shift.  The rules for a four butt shift are as follows: at least three rows of planking between butts on the same frame, a minimum of four feet between butts with one unbroken plank between them and at least five feet between butts on adjacent planks.  The distance between frame centers (except at the bow and stern) on this kit is four feet.  Take a sheet of paper and line out the frames and twelve rows of planking.  Play around with the butt locations.  It gets more complicated aft because of the stealer.  Eventually, I came up with three possible sequences for the planking.  On this ship the butt sequence will be BF3, D1, A4F and C2.   As mentioned in the previous post, I realized that the broad strake planking sequence should have been D1 rather than C2.  But I did not notice this until the first belt had been completed.  And, mea culpa, I decided to leave it alone rather than completely strip the hull except for the garboard strake.  Mark the lower belt and the aft part of the middle belt with the butt sequence.  I did this in red ink.
 

 
 

And if you are interested in learning how to plank correctly, consider this:
 

And if you are interested in learning how to plank correctly, consider this:
 

And if you are interested in learning how to plank correctly, consider this:
 

And if you are interested in learning how to plank correctly, consider this:
 

And if you are interested in learning how to plank correctly, consider this:
 

Great post!
  If we could all build like Chuck, Chuck wouldn't be so special!😄

And if you are interested in learning how to plank correctly, consider this:
 

Double planked hulls usually dont have a rabbet.  That is problematic.   Double planked hulls as said were done because the MFG usually cheaped out on the number of bulkheads.....
 
If your kit has few bulkheads and is single planked that would be a huge problem....
 
If you have a lot of bulkheads or frames......Why would you plank twice if you take your time and do it right the first time.
 
If your hull is painted or plated,  why plank it twice?
 
If it is not and you dont know how to plank,  then it doesnt matter if you you plank the first layer poorly because chances are that the second layer will also be poor.
 
Best to plank it once and plank it correctly.   Single planked hulls force folks to learn proper planking techniques as well.
 
My advice would be to start a log and post some photos.....also ask a lot of questions.  Its not easy to plank a hull and it requires some practice.   With lots of failures along the way.  

Brian, it is not up on the website yet.  Please either call or email the office (both are found here: https://www.thenrg.org/contact-us.php).  
 

In order to keep the planks from becoming to wide aft, a stealer will be required.  This extra plank "steals" some wood from one or two adjacent planks, hence the name.  There are two types of stealers: half-checked and quarter-checked.  With a half-checked stealer a notch one-half the width of the plank is made in the plank below the stealer; in a quarter-checked stealer a notch is made one-quarter the width of the planks above and below the stealer.  I hope the drawings clarify this.

A big question is where to put the stealer.  As a rule, a stealer would be placed where the arc of the run of planking no longer parallels the wale.  The fore end of the stealer extends as far as necessary to maintain a smooth run of planking.  Look at the picture below.  This nothing more than a piece of thread with a knot tied in it and secured to a random frame.  The lower leg is along the border between the lower and middle planking belts.  The upper leg is paralleling the arc of the wale.  On the deadwood, in pencil, are evenly spaced marks for the ends of the planks of the lower and middle belts (four planks in the lower belt and five in the middle because of the stealer).  Play around with the fore end of the string (lengthwise and vertically) to decide where the stealer should be located.  Now look at the surrounding plank butts and make sure that the tip of the stealer is at least one row away from a plank butt.
You will probably find that the tip of your stealer will land between frames.  I glued a spacer between Frames F and G for this reason.  The following pictures show a quarter-checked stealer drawn onto the spacer with and without the string.  My other models were made with a quarter-checked stealer; this one will be made with a half-checked stealer.  No reason other than to do it differently.  The quarter-checked stealer is actually more difficult to make and the description of making it can be found in the kit manual.


 

Now that the garboard and broad strakes are completed, it is time to develop the planking belts.  I have chosen three belts of four planks each.  One could also do two belts of six planks.  I simply find the narrower belts easier to work with.  The midships area is easy...divide the frame by three.  But fore and aft, the relative width of the belts will change.  There will be a stealer aft and a dropped plank fore to compensate for this.  What is needed now is an aesthetic series of lines for the belts.  Play with it until you are happy; again, try and avoid the smiley-face look at the bow.

Mark the location of the belts on the frames.  On the frames are a series of hash marks on the side of the frames.  You can see some of them in the photo above.  These represent the locations for the top of the garboard and broad strakes and belt lines on my first build of the kit (this is number 5!).  They are a good starting point but I discovered that each build was a little different, depending on the fairing and the actual width of the wider planks.
 
Make a tic strip for each frames.  Mark the planking belts and the bottom of the wale on them.  Frames C through 2 were identical which is why there are no strips on several of the frames.  Remove the tic strips from the frames and divide the lower belt into four equal divisions.  Either eyeball it or use a caliper.
 

It is time to figure out the planking scheme.  Initially, I spent over an hour to figure this out.  Ships were planked in either three-butt shifts or four-butt shifts.  This ship will be planked with a four-butt shift.  The rules for a four butt shift are as follows: at least three rows of planking between butts on the same frame, a minimum of four feet between butts with one unbroken plank between them and at least five feet between butts on adjacent planks.  The distance between frame centers (except at the bow and stern) on this kit is four feet.  Take a sheet of paper and line out the frames and twelve rows of planking.  Play around with the butt locations.  It gets more complicated aft because of the stealer.  Eventually, I came up with three possible sequences for the planking.  On this ship the butt sequence will be BF3, D1, A4F and C2.   As mentioned in the previous post, I realized that the broad strake planking sequence should have been D1 rather than C2.  But I did not notice this until the first belt had been completed.  And, mea culpa, I decided to leave it alone rather than completely strip the hull except for the garboard strake.  Mark the lower belt and the aft part of the middle belt with the butt sequence.  I did this in red ink.
 

 
 

The next row of planking, the broad strake, has essentially the same width as the garboard.  However...it is no longer a straight line because the width of the garboard changed fore and aft of midships.  Mark the frames and deadwood at the sternpost just as you did with the garboard strake, 12" midships and 14" at the sternpost.  Run a piece of string or tape to determine the run of planking.  The fore plank will end approximately halfway between Frames 5 and 5a and 0.06" below the first waterline.

The plank butts on this model landed on Frames C and 2.  In retrospect, Frames D and 1 are a better option, as you will see in the next sequence.  Take a piece of tape and place it over the garboard, extending onto the frames.  Again, mark the location of the sternpost and frames.  Take a soft pencil and rub it along the edge of the garboard strake from the sternpost to Frame C.
Mark the height of the broad strake on the tape, put it on the planking sheet and cut it out.  When cutting out the planks, leave a little meat on the bone for final fitting to the previous row of planking.  Sanding blocks and sticks are the best tool I have found for fine-tuning the fit between planks.  Gaps are easily seen by holding the hull up to a light.  It will be necessary to sand a bevel into the side of the plank to ensure a tight fit.  The angle of this bevel will change based on the curvature of the hull... a relatively flat area like over the deadwood will have minimal bevel and sharply curved areas like the turn of the bilge will have significantly more.  Hull planks are caulked for water tightness.  This is simulated by rubbing a soft pencil lead along one long and one short edge of the plank.  Rubbing all four sides will result in a darker line; if that is the effect you are after, fine.  I prefer the more subtle look.
 
Repeat for the other two planks.




 

Some builders like to install the wale before the lower hull planking.  I prefer to install it after the lower planking belts have been installed.  Either approach will give the same results.  
 
Before any planking can be installed, the “median plank width” must be determined. This number represents the typical plank width measured at the dead-flat frame. This width varies by size and type of vessel, as well as by where and when it was built. This mid-18th century American schooner would have had a median plank width between 4-12” depending on the availability of materials. I have chosen a median plank width of 9”. The bottom two rows of planks are wider than the other planks and are the garboard and first broad strakes. These planks have a median plank width 1/3 greater than the other planks, in our case 12”. The length of planking was also determined by the availability of lumber. In this era, a length of 20-25’ would be appropriate.  At our scale of 1:48, the median plank width will be 0.18"; the garboard and broad strakes will have a median plank width of 0.25".  Going forward, all widths cited will be full-size unless otherwise stated.  To get to the kit size, divide by 48.  Take a strip of paper (tic strip) and mark off the median width of 12".  Put the end of the strip into the depth of the rabbet in the midships area (Frames D through 3) and mark this location on the frames.  All planks taper as they approach the bow and widen towards the stern.  The garboard and broad strakes are no exception.  In this little ship, the garboard widens to 14" at the sternpost and narrows to 6" at the bow.  Place a mark on the deadwood at the sternpost 14" above the bottom of the rabbet.  Remember that the rabbet transitions to a mortise by Frame F.  One of the biggest problems builders have is locating the fore end of the garboard too high up the stem.  This gives the planking a "smiley-face" look and makes the fore ends of the regular planks too narrow. Take a look at the photo below.  The garboard does not extend beyond the fore end of Frame 5 and has minimal rise.  On the plan there are green lines spaced 0.33" apart.  This is 15" full-size.  These are called waterlines and would be numbered from bottom to top; the numbering was not added to keep the plan less cluttered.  The fore end of the garboard on this model ends 0.24" below the first water line.  Using tape or a thread, connect the midships with the fore and aft locations of the garboard.  When happy with the run of planking, mark the frames and remove the tape.

There are several ways to determine the shape of planks.  During the project I will show two approaches that work for me.  Both approaches utilize templates to determine plank shape.  I arbitrarily decided that the garboard will be made up from two planks and the broad strake from three.  The planks will end on Frame 3.  The garboard is the only strake with a straight edge.  Place a piece of tape from Frame A to the stern post and another from Frame A to the stem.  I always leave extra tape fore and aft so these two pieces will overlap each other at Frame A.  Mark the location of the frames onto the tape; then mark the run of the garboard.  Using semi-transparent tape makes this process a lot easier.  You can see that I have also marked the rabbet/mortise transition in front of Frame F and the run of the plank at the bow and stern.

The aft plank template has been placed on the planking material.  The kit provides 1/32" basswood sheets.  This material was chosen because it is inexpensive, easily cut with a #11 blade or single-edged razor blade, and readily available at craft and hardware stores if you run out.  I have exaggerated the notch by Frame F for purposes of the picture.  Remember, this is the transition between the rabbet and the mortise.  The wood will dive into the rabbet but will lay flat in the mortise.  Make a tiny cut at this spot to allow the wood to bend into the mortise.  The notch will be sanded to its final width as the plank is given to the hull.


This is how it will look when the garboard planks have been installed.

In order to determine the planking belts, we must first find the top and the bottom of the regular hull planking: the bottom of the wale and the top of the broad strake.  The wale is a thicker run of planking that adds strength to the hull.  It will be located on the plans of whatever ship you are building.  It is marked on this plan with two blue lines.  Use a square to locate the top of the wale on the frames.  Make sure the line looks fair.  Then mark the bottom of the wale on the frames, extending the line to the intersection of Frame H and the counter.
 

In order to keep the planks from becoming to wide aft, a stealer will be required.  This extra plank "steals" some wood from one or two adjacent planks, hence the name.  There are two types of stealers: half-checked and quarter-checked.  With a half-checked stealer a notch one-half the width of the plank is made in the plank below the stealer; in a quarter-checked stealer a notch is made one-quarter the width of the planks above and below the stealer.  I hope the drawings clarify this.

A big question is where to put the stealer.  As a rule, a stealer would be placed where the arc of the run of planking no longer parallels the wale.  The fore end of the stealer extends as far as necessary to maintain a smooth run of planking.  Look at the picture below.  This nothing more than a piece of thread with a knot tied in it and secured to a random frame.  The lower leg is along the border between the lower and middle planking belts.  The upper leg is paralleling the arc of the wale.  On the deadwood, in pencil, are evenly spaced marks for the ends of the planks of the lower and middle belts (four planks in the lower belt and five in the middle because of the stealer).  Play around with the fore end of the string (lengthwise and vertically) to decide where the stealer should be located.  Now look at the surrounding plank butts and make sure that the tip of the stealer is at least one row away from a plank butt.
You will probably find that the tip of your stealer will land between frames.  I glued a spacer between Frames F and G for this reason.  The following pictures show a quarter-checked stealer drawn onto the spacer with and without the string.  My other models were made with a quarter-checked stealer; this one will be made with a half-checked stealer.  No reason other than to do it differently.  The quarter-checked stealer is actually more difficult to make and the description of making it can be found in the kit manual.


 

Brian, it is not up on the website yet.  Please either call or email the office (both are found here: https://www.thenrg.org/contact-us.php).  
 

Brian, it is not up on the website yet.  Please either call or email the office (both are found here: https://www.thenrg.org/contact-us.php).