tlevine

To prevent damage, the top rail was made last.  There are four balustrades that fit into the holes previously made in the top and a top rail.  The rail extended almost to the edges of the top and is 4” wide.  This was cut from 1/32” sheet wood and the edges were smoothed over.  The rail was placed on the top’s gunwale and the locations of the balustrade holes were transferred to it. 
The balustrades are two feet long and 2 inches square.  The two ends of the balustrade are square and the center section is round.  You can see the transition marks for the top and bottom pins, and between the square and round sections drawn onto the wood.  I used an 11 blade, files and sandpaper to round the center section.  The transition from square to round was shaped with a half-round file.  The end pins are square.
  
 
The balustrades were inserted into the rail after enlarging the drill holes.  Then they were glued into the holes in the top.  The rail is angled 90 degrees to the water line.  Once dry, the protruding pins were sanded flush with the rail. 

As a final step, I applied mahogany veneer to the exposed frames.  All that was left was to clean things up.  Thank you for following along!

 
 

To prevent damage, the top rail was made last.  There are four balustrades that fit into the holes previously made in the top and a top rail.  The rail extended almost to the edges of the top and is 4” wide.  This was cut from 1/32” sheet wood and the edges were smoothed over.  The rail was placed on the top’s gunwale and the locations of the balustrade holes were transferred to it. 
The balustrades are two feet long and 2 inches square.  The two ends of the balustrade are square and the center section is round.  You can see the transition marks for the top and bottom pins, and between the square and round sections drawn onto the wood.  I used an 11 blade, files and sandpaper to round the center section.  The transition from square to round was shaped with a half-round file.  The end pins are square.
  
 
The balustrades were inserted into the rail after enlarging the drill holes.  Then they were glued into the holes in the top.  The rail is angled 90 degrees to the water line.  Once dry, the protruding pins were sanded flush with the rail. 

As a final step, I applied mahogany veneer to the exposed frames.  All that was left was to clean things up.  Thank you for following along!

 
 

To prevent damage, the top rail was made last.  There are four balustrades that fit into the holes previously made in the top and a top rail.  The rail extended almost to the edges of the top and is 4” wide.  This was cut from 1/32” sheet wood and the edges were smoothed over.  The rail was placed on the top’s gunwale and the locations of the balustrade holes were transferred to it. 
The balustrades are two feet long and 2 inches square.  The two ends of the balustrade are square and the center section is round.  You can see the transition marks for the top and bottom pins, and between the square and round sections drawn onto the wood.  I used an 11 blade, files and sandpaper to round the center section.  The transition from square to round was shaped with a half-round file.  The end pins are square.
  
 
The balustrades were inserted into the rail after enlarging the drill holes.  Then they were glued into the holes in the top.  The rail is angled 90 degrees to the water line.  Once dry, the protruding pins were sanded flush with the rail. 

As a final step, I applied mahogany veneer to the exposed frames.  All that was left was to clean things up.  Thank you for following along!

 
 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

To prevent damage, the top rail was made last.  There are four balustrades that fit into the holes previously made in the top and a top rail.  The rail extended almost to the edges of the top and is 4” wide.  This was cut from 1/32” sheet wood and the edges were smoothed over.  The rail was placed on the top’s gunwale and the locations of the balustrade holes were transferred to it. 
The balustrades are two feet long and 2 inches square.  The two ends of the balustrade are square and the center section is round.  You can see the transition marks for the top and bottom pins, and between the square and round sections drawn onto the wood.  I used an 11 blade, files and sandpaper to round the center section.  The transition from square to round was shaped with a half-round file.  The end pins are square.
  
 
The balustrades were inserted into the rail after enlarging the drill holes.  Then they were glued into the holes in the top.  The rail is angled 90 degrees to the water line.  Once dry, the protruding pins were sanded flush with the rail. 

As a final step, I applied mahogany veneer to the exposed frames.  All that was left was to clean things up.  Thank you for following along!

 
 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The jeer tye blocks are suspended from the mast head, pass through the opening in the center of the top and hang below the top.  A rope, the jeer tye, comes up from below the yard, runs through the jeer tye block, down to the jeer block , up to the other jeer tye block and back down towards the deck.  These pictures shows the location of the jeer tye blocks and the jeer tye forming the letter “M”.
 
Cleats are located on either side of the masthead for the lashings that secure the jeer tye strop.  These were made the same way I made the yard cleats.   The sharp outer edges were rounded over and they were installed onto the side of the masthead between the battens and below the upper metal hoop.
 
The jeer tye blocks have a double strop.  Steel states that all block strops greater than 4” are served.  These are 17” blocks and would have had 5” strops.  However, Antscherl, in TFFM, Vol 4, page 100, shows jeer tye blocks stropped with unserved line.  Without a clear direction to take, I chose to leave them unserved.  The block hangs below the top a distance equal to the length of the block. These blocks were stropped using the same process used for the other blocks except the two legs are the same length.  The block was secured with a throat seizing and loops were seized on both arms.
 
 
The starboard jeer tye block was installed first.  Seven turns of lashing went through the jeer tye loops and the opposite cleat.  It was then wrapped around itself and secured on the aft side of the masthead.  The port jeer tye block was installed the same way and the lashing was adjusted so the two blocks hunt at the same level.
  
 
The jeer tye (the line than runs through the three jeer blocks) has a double block for the jeer tye falls on each end.  According to Steel, the tye should be the length of the mast, 56 feet.  “Falls” describe a pully arrangement with a heavier line (i.e. the jeer tye) stropped to a block with lighter rope running between this block and another block attached to the deck.
 
The easiest way I found to attach the blocks to the tye is to strop a block onto one end of the tye and then pass the tye through one of the jeer tye blocks, down to the jeer and back up through the other jeer tye block.  The line was threaded through all three jeer blocks until the  jeer tye block came up to the jeer block.  This gave me more room to attach the other tye block.  I passed the jeer tye back through the jeer blocks until the double blocks were level with each other. 

 
 
 
 

Stirrups are lengths of tarred line attached to the yard with an eye-splice at one end.  The number and location vary based on the length of the yard.  On this model, the stirrups are located between the two buntline blocks and at the end of the stub yard.  The footropes (or horses) are also tarred and pass through the eye-splices in the stirrups.  They are fixed to the yard near the opposite clueline block and at the end of the yard.  The scale difference between the two ropes is slight enough that they were made from the same diameter line.  The stirrups wrap around the yard three times and extend three feet below the yard.  In practice, the free end of the stirrup would have been nailed to the back of the yard, but these were glued.  They hang behind the yard.  The picture shows the length of the stirrup relative to the yard.  To install the stirrups I marked their locations on the yard and removed the buntline blocks.  I made an eye splice on one end and wrapped the stirrup around the same diameter dowels three times.  The wraps were coated with dilute glue.  After they were dry I installed them and replaced the bunt blocks.

The horses have an eye splice at one end just large enough to allow the line to pass through it, forming a loop.  The loop is tightened down around the yard just outside the opposite side cleat.  It then goes through the loops in the stirrups. 

It can be difficult to get the horses to have a pleasing curve.  I shaped these by painting them with clear flat acrylic finish and letting it dry on plastic wrap.  The horses were left free at the end of the yard as they would have continued further along the yard.  The yard rigging is now finished. 

Cleats are located outside both quarter blocks.  The length of the cleat is 125% the diameter of the yard.  The easiest way to make two identical cleats is to glue two pieces of the correct width wood together with PVA.  Shape them and then dissolve the bond in isopropanol.  The cleats were glued to the yard outside the quarter blocks. 
 
 
There are three more blocks on each side of the yard: two buntline and one clueline.  These are  single blocks and are stropped just as was done with the quarter blocks except the strops are not served.  I used 3 mm single blocks for them.  Because these strops are not served, it was easier to make an eye-splice on each end to form the loops, just as was done for the futtock shrouds (minus the thimble).  As with the other blocks, the strop seizing is on the fore side of the yard.  The buntline blocks point skyward and the clueline blocks downward, as seen below.

I have temporarily inserted the pin connecting the mast and yard.  The pin passes between the turns of the double strop of the jeer block.

Dealing with fit, finish, and accuracy problems for injection-molded plastic kits has been a characteristic of these kits for decades. Plastic modelers long ago resigned themselves to being "modelers" rather than "kit assemblers". This means correcting the many and manifold flaws in the models as the good doctor has expertly shown above. Often this borders on scratch-building. Witness the plethora of aftermarket accessories in resin, plastic, photoetch, metal, & 3D-printing from suppliers such as Evergreen Scale Models, K & S Metals, Albion tubing, Gold Medal Models, Eduard, and so on ad infinitum. Well done, Doc.

As mentioned in my previous post, the deck beams are not thought out well.  They are very flimsy pieces of plastic less than 1/8” thick after sanding down for the wood veneer.  There are tiny tabs on both sides of the beams which insert into notches in the hull.  The idea is to flex the beams to insert them into the notches.  When I attempted this, something very disconcerting occurred; the two hull halves separated.  I sanded the joint line and glued the halves together again.  The next day, the joint was still not solid.  I took some scrap pieces of sprue, sanded them flat and tried to cement them together.  I could break the joint.  I then looked at the hatches and pillars.  A tiny bit of pressure and the glue lines separated.  I don’t know if it was the cement or the composition of the plastic that was causing the problem but from this point onwards, everything was glued with medium viscosity CA.

The deck was installed next.  It slides into the hull from the open aft end.  There is no glue involved.  The deck is theoretically held in place by the inner bulwarks.  I was not comfortable with this concept and glued the deck to the aft deck beam after it had been slid into the hull.  After the finish was applied, the diagonal striations in the deck became even more apparent.  For someone building this model, I would suggest a hand-laid deck from thin veneer.  Apply the planking to the deck before inserting the deck into the hull.

 
The inner bulwarks were installed next.  They were painted before installation and include a waterway molded into them.  This is what holds the deck onto the beams. 

 
It is now time to start the outer hull painting.  I apologize for the poor paint job.  I had difficulty with the brush applications.  Later on, I used an airbrush for the body of the hull and it became apparent that the paint was designed for airbrush application, not brush.  Lesson to be learned is if one is dealing with an unfamiliar product, experiment using it in a place where it will not be seen (inside the hull before it is glued together, for example) before applying it to the outer hull.  After the painting was completed the bulwarks were installed.  The kit came with a laser engraved basswood base, as seen in the next picture.  The slot for the keel is too wide and the outline of the base does not conform to the shape of the hull.  I would suggest using the outer pieces but make new cross-pieces that fit the shape of the model.

The lower transom is installed next.  It was not a good fit and required a significant amount of sanding and filling.

 

If you have not read my kit review, take a look at it before you begin.  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36826-utrecht-172-by-hismodel/
The first (and most important) step in any build is to read the instructions and understand what they are trying to say.  Reading the instructions was easy…there is very little written.  It is essentially all drawings and computer-generated graphics.  Most of it made sense and I figured that the confusing areas would make themselves obvious further into the build.  I have not built a plastic kit in many years.  Construction sequences are different in a plastic model versus wood.  They are certainly neater to build.  No sawdust!  I need to apologize ahead of time for some sloppy painting.  My goal was to review the kit, not make this my magnum opus.
Since everything gets painted prior to installation, I needed to buy paint and glue.  I was told that many plastic modelers swear by Tamiya Extra Thin (the green label) and bought a bottle.  There is a paint chart in the manual listing the names and numbers of four suppliers as well as the RAL equivalents.  RAL is a system used in Europe for color standards.  It started in 1927 and is administered by the German RAL Institute.   I noticed a few problems.  The RAL equivalents were different than some of the paint colors.  Some of the item numbers did not exist.  The yellow specified was bright yellow, whereas the replica ship’s yellow is more muted, closer to mustard.  Even thought I am building OOTB, I could not stand the bright yellow and used Tamiya XF15, flesh, which closely approximates the replica.  Since I knew I would be blending paint, I stayed with a single manufacturer, Tamiya.
 
The first thing to be done is drill numerous holes for eventual insertion of ringbolts, cleats and belaying pins.  Larger holes were drilled for the scuppers.  The drill size is specified on the plans but in several cases, these are larger than necessary.  I drilled all the holes initially with a #77 bit, enlarging them as required.  Drilling plastic is much different from drilling wood.  The bits do not like to bite and the holes need to be drilled by hand to prevent melting the plastic.  After all the holes were drilled, the two hull halves were glued together.  I do not know what the fit-tolerance is for plastic kits.  There were several areas along the seam line that needed to be filled because of gaps.
 
Part 3 of the instructions is called Components Assembly.  It shows drawings of the various parts and their color.  The nineteen pieces window glass are noted as part “TF”, transparent foil but this was not provided in the kit.  I decided to use Saran Wrap.  I started by assembling and painting the two hatches and two pillars, even though they would not be installed for while.  The construction was straight forward.


There are a lot of things in this kit which were well thought out.  Other things…not so much.  One example of this is the deck.  This is the Premium version, which comes with a wood veneer to place over the plastic deck.  This increases the thickness of the deck, requiring the deck beams to be thinned by the thickness of the veneer.  The deck beams already are thin and bendable.  Decreasing their thickness made them even more flexible.  For anyone building this kit, I recommend either strengthening the plastic beams or replacing them with wood.   Here, the mounting pads for the hatches and pillars have been painted red. 

The veneer has been glued onto the plastic deck.  Because they are dissimilar materials, I used CA.  My plan was to apply Watco’s Danish Wood Oil so any bleed-through from the glue would go away.  You can see the coarse grain of the wood in addition to the diagonal saw marks.  I was afraid to sand the deck because the scribing for planks was very shallow.  The deck structures have been placed onto the deck temporarily.


 

I hope to have the build log started shortly.  Until then, this is the completed model.

The NRG Masting and Rigging Project is now available for purchase in the NRG store.  https://thenrgstore.org/collections/plans-and-projects/products/masting-and-rigging-kit  The purpose of this kit is to teach the novice and intermediate model builder the basics of how to mast and rig a ship.  The subject for this project is a waterline 1:48 scale cross-section of a late eighteenth-century British sloop of war.  All the materials necessary to build the kit are included.  We are pleased to provide the highest quality materials available.  All of the line is from our sponsor Ropes of Scale.  There are no square blocks in this kit!
 
For more details about the model, follow the build log.  
 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The truss pendants are paired ropes that hold the yard against the mast.  These are made from twenty feet of 4” rope with a double block stropped on one end and a thimble on the other.  The end with the thimble is seized onto the yard. I spliced a thimble into one end of the line and seized the pendant onto the yard inside the quarter block, keeping the thimble on the aft side of the yard.  I rotated the yard 180 degrees to gain better access to the aft side of the yard.

Once both pendants were attached to the yard, I ran the line from the starboard pendant through the top of the port pendant thimble; the process was repeated with the port pendant, passing it through the top of the starboard thimble.  The result is a crossing of the two lines on the aft side of the mast.
 
Three-millimeter double blocks were stropped on the ends of the pendants for the pendant falls.  In the picture below, the outer lines are the jeer tyes and the longer inner ones are the pendants.

The lower blocks for  the pendant and jeer falls attach to the eyebolts on the mast partners.  The strop for the blocks is spliced, with a loop seized at each end.  The lower loop is fitted with a hook and the falls will be attached to the upper loop.  It took a few tries to make hooks that looked realistic.  After they were made, I opened the loop and inserted it into one of the block loops.  The rope for the falls passes through the other loop and is spliced to itself to secure it.
 
The jeer tye falls are 2” rope.  After securing it to the lower tye falls block loop, the line was passed back and forth through the upper and lower blocks and hooked to the block on the aft eyebolt, adjusting the length of rope as necessary to get a snug but not too tight line.  I wrapped the line a few times around the bits and taped the ends to the back of the last frame.  This allowed me to easily adjust the tension.
 
 
The pendant tye falls were rove the same way.  The rope for the pendant falls is 1 3/4”.  The ends were taped to frame 1.  I tightened all the lines and let the model sit for a day to allow the rope to stretch from the tension.  The lines were adjusted and retapes them to the frames.  The jeer tye falls were finished off by making rope coils to go over the bit pin.  I made my coils by taking a piece of line and wrapping it around the jaws of a caliper.  The line was removed by closing the jaws.  A few turns of line were wrapped around the middle of the coil.
 
 

Steel states that both the jeer tye and pendant falls tie off to bits.  I tied the jeer tye falls to the bits and the pendant falls to itself to prevent the lines from rubbing against each other and to show an alternate way to tie off a line.  The rope coils for the pendant falls were made on the model.  My rope coil is 3.5’ long and the wrap is 4’ up from the deck.  That completes the rigging.

 

The jeer tye blocks are suspended from the mast head, pass through the opening in the center of the top and hang below the top.  A rope, the jeer tye, comes up from below the yard, runs through the jeer tye block, down to the jeer block , up to the other jeer tye block and back down towards the deck.  These pictures shows the location of the jeer tye blocks and the jeer tye forming the letter “M”.
 
Cleats are located on either side of the masthead for the lashings that secure the jeer tye strop.  These were made the same way I made the yard cleats.   The sharp outer edges were rounded over and they were installed onto the side of the masthead between the battens and below the upper metal hoop.
 
The jeer tye blocks have a double strop.  Steel states that all block strops greater than 4” are served.  These are 17” blocks and would have had 5” strops.  However, Antscherl, in TFFM, Vol 4, page 100, shows jeer tye blocks stropped with unserved line.  Without a clear direction to take, I chose to leave them unserved.  The block hangs below the top a distance equal to the length of the block. These blocks were stropped using the same process used for the other blocks except the two legs are the same length.  The block was secured with a throat seizing and loops were seized on both arms.
 
 
The starboard jeer tye block was installed first.  Seven turns of lashing went through the jeer tye loops and the opposite cleat.  It was then wrapped around itself and secured on the aft side of the masthead.  The port jeer tye block was installed the same way and the lashing was adjusted so the two blocks hunt at the same level.
  
 
The jeer tye (the line than runs through the three jeer blocks) has a double block for the jeer tye falls on each end.  According to Steel, the tye should be the length of the mast, 56 feet.  “Falls” describe a pully arrangement with a heavier line (i.e. the jeer tye) stropped to a block with lighter rope running between this block and another block attached to the deck.
 
The easiest way I found to attach the blocks to the tye is to strop a block onto one end of the tye and then pass the tye through one of the jeer tye blocks, down to the jeer and back up through the other jeer tye block.  The line was threaded through all three jeer blocks until the  jeer tye block came up to the jeer block.  This gave me more room to attach the other tye block.  I passed the jeer tye back through the jeer blocks until the double blocks were level with each other.