tlevine

Hello friends,
news pictures of the Bonhomme Richard.
 
Regards Karl
 
 
T e i l  3 7
 
 
B.  Orlop-Deck
 
     6  Surgeon's storeroom     /   Arztraum
     7  Spore anchor   /   Reserve Anker
     8  Scuttle leading to the carpenter's walk  /  Zimmermann - Laderaum
     9  Scuttle providing acces to the shot-locker  /  Zugang zu dem Kugelraum
   10  Dried vegetables  /  Trockenraum für Pflanzen
   11  Officer's provisions  /  Versorgungsraum der Offiziere
   12  Bread- room  /  Brot - Lagerraum  

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

Well, a few days has turned into a few weeks.  I received my cup burrs.  They do a nice job of smoothing the ends of brass "bolts".  There are several sizes available, depending on the gauge of the wire.  I purchased my from Widget Supply, a company that sells hobby supplies.  While on the site I found a great sanding devise, a 1/2" disc sander for the Dremel with several grits.  I used to get these from Micromark, but they stopped selling them last year.  The disc sander is perfect for outside tapers and when you want a less aggressive sander than the drum sander.  I have no connection to the company, simply a pleased customer.
 

 
I have installed beam set 4.  Notches have been cut into the bulkhead walls for the carlings and ledges.  I am much happier with the bolt head on the fore mast partner after rounding them up and painting them.  Blackening was not possible in situ and I was pleased with how it turned out.  The hole in the deck aft of beam 5 is for the pin of the bit.
 

 

The hand is mostly healed so I was able to get a little work done this weekend.
 
The fore mast partner is located between beams 2 and 3.  Unlike the lower deck, the fore and main partners on the upper deck are complicated affairs.  The carlings are let into the beam from below but stop one inch below the top of the beam.  Fore and aft cross chocks are mortised into the carlings and the beams.  Finally, the four corner chocks  are mortised into the cross chocks and the carlings.  The cross chocks have a round-up to match the beams.  A total of 32 bolts hold this assembly together.  Sorry for the picture quality but these were taken before I finish sanded and cleaned up the assembly.  The blue discoloration is from the droplet of blackener I put on one of the bolts that was damaged during insertion.  I put plain water on the area later and it is not longer a problem.
 

 

 

 

 
The completed assembly is glued to beam 3 but dry-fit to beam 2.  The brass wire will keep the assembly in place as I make the knees and carlings.  You can see that the blue color is gone.
 

 

 
I have started work on the beam 3 assembly.  The lodging knees are attached to the beam but everything else is simply press fit in place.  I was lucky enough to have bright sun to take pictures in.  Yes, I know, light overcast is best to prevent shadows.  But sunlight picks up gaps and other irregularities better.  You can see the difference between beam set 2, which is finished and glued and beam set 3 which is still in the "rough" stage.
 

 

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

I have the radio on and was reminded that this time last year the temperature was in the low 80's.  This year it is unreasonably cold.  I was thrilled that it got above freezing for the first time in several weeks.  I found a picture of the newly completed hull taken one year ago today and would like to compare it with my progress one year later.  The good news is that I have not been distracted with gardening this year.
 
March 2012

 
March 2013

Danny, thanks for the head's up.
 
Not much has been accomplished the last week.  The spring here has been particularly cold and cloudy so now that it is a little warmer (50 degrees with a 30 mph wind!) I have been occupied in the gardens.  We finally saw the sun yesterday so I took Atalanta sailing in the lawn.
 

 

 

Over the last few weeks I have been continuing work on the lower deck bulkheads and doors.  The fore doors are a simple affair with drilled holes for ventilation and a z-brace on the inside.  The hinges are from the photoetch sheet from Admiralty Models and the door knobs are brass pin heads.  Because the doors are very plain looking, I left two of them ajar to break up the line of wood paneling.  The aft doors are more visually interesting and so are shown closed.  These doors have a lower "floating" panel and ventilation is via louvers.  When making the doors it is important not to simply notch the top of the door for the beams but to notch the entire header where it would interfere with opening the door completely.  
 

 

 

 
There is a lantern on both sides of the bulkhead separating the boatswain's store room (port) from the gunner's store room (starboard and not shown).  The small piece of wood between the 3rd cant frame and the lower deck hook is a piece of scrap that fell in the space.
 

 

 
The next task was to make the upper deck hook and eking pieces.  On the lower deck, the hook was rabbetted for the run of the deck planking.  On the upper deck this is not the case.  Although not very apparent in the photos, there is a round-up on the hook to match the round-up of the beams.
 

 
 

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

My two cents in the "should I buy the kit" discusion
 
With the knowledge I have now of the 'kit' I would not buy it again. Apart from the hefty price tag it's more of a scratch build starter package than a kit. And although all the parts are precut, Mr Hunt had no good control of his CNC router leaving ugly dents in every part. Cleaning up is tedious and will harm the overall shape of the parts. I stopped using them a long time ago....
Building the kit is just as complex as making it from scratch, so if I could go back in time I would:
 
Get the Swan plans from admiraltymodels.com 
Get the Swan framing package from hobbymillusa.com 
Get TFFM Vol I, II and III from seawatchbooks.com, well I got them as you need the books even if you have the 'kit' as the practicum won't take you all the way.
 
(ps just a happy customer from the above company's nothing more) 
 
Buy yourself a good scroll saw and table saw, you can easily squeeze this into the budget of the kit price you've just saved from spending. And it's a good investment for future projects. 
Take a plunge into the wonderful world of scratch building, it's not as difficult as I had imagined especially with all the help and knowledge here on MSW you can tap in to. And one other thing, if you mess up a kit part like the hawse timbers ( it took me more than one attempt  ) you're in trouble. But if you make your own parts you just cut a new set and try again.....
 
Now lets get back on topic Thank you Martin for your kind words.
 
Current state of the lower deck. Progress is slow bud steady.
 

 

 
Remco
 
 
 
 
 

With this installment, I'm about up to where I was on my other build log. I've done some work since then, but I'll leave it for another time to update the log here.
 







 
As you can see in these photos, I've added the floorboards, risers, platforms and stern seats. I used Chuck's technique for scribing the moldings and was really happy with how they turned out. The wood is all treated with a 50/50 mix of Golden Oak and Natural stains. The paint was my own mix of acrylics. I know the brighter red is more authentic, so I chalk up the darker color mix to artistic license.
 
In the fourth photo, if you look carefully, you can see the light shining through the thin planking above the waterline. 
 
Finally, I did start the metal work here, shaping the kit provided brass and using the "Brass Black" solution that Bluejacket sells. I find that I get better results using their product than with A-West's "Blacken-It" product. Anyway, the blackened brass was then given a clear coat and glued into place.
 
Clare

Thanks.
 
I temporary turned my attention to make the aft hatch and grating. Making gratings was one of the things I've been looking forward to making. I finally got around to set up my table saw to make the notched battens, it was actually less difficult than I had imagined. In the end I didn't use the special sled I had made, but just a regular cross sled with a small batten off set from the blade to make repeated cuts. I had to adapt the coamings to let the bitt pins pass. 
 
A big batch of notched battens were made so I only need to do this once and have good supply to make all the gratings.
 

 

 

 
The nails are simulated with a graphite tipped needle, just like I did on the mast tops.
 

 
Remco

Well, a few days has turned into a few weeks.  I received my cup burrs.  They do a nice job of smoothing the ends of brass "bolts".  There are several sizes available, depending on the gauge of the wire.  I purchased my from Widget Supply, a company that sells hobby supplies.  While on the site I found a great sanding devise, a 1/2" disc sander for the Dremel with several grits.  I used to get these from Micromark, but they stopped selling them last year.  The disc sander is perfect for outside tapers and when you want a less aggressive sander than the drum sander.  I have no connection to the company, simply a pleased customer.
 

 
I have installed beam set 4.  Notches have been cut into the bulkhead walls for the carlings and ledges.  I am much happier with the bolt head on the fore mast partner after rounding them up and painting them.  Blackening was not possible in situ and I was pleased with how it turned out.  The hole in the deck aft of beam 5 is for the pin of the bit.
 

 

The hand is mostly healed so I was able to get a little work done this weekend.
 
The fore mast partner is located between beams 2 and 3.  Unlike the lower deck, the fore and main partners on the upper deck are complicated affairs.  The carlings are let into the beam from below but stop one inch below the top of the beam.  Fore and aft cross chocks are mortised into the carlings and the beams.  Finally, the four corner chocks  are mortised into the cross chocks and the carlings.  The cross chocks have a round-up to match the beams.  A total of 32 bolts hold this assembly together.  Sorry for the picture quality but these were taken before I finish sanded and cleaned up the assembly.  The blue discoloration is from the droplet of blackener I put on one of the bolts that was damaged during insertion.  I put plain water on the area later and it is not longer a problem.
 

 

 

 

 
The completed assembly is glued to beam 3 but dry-fit to beam 2.  The brass wire will keep the assembly in place as I make the knees and carlings.  You can see that the blue color is gone.
 

 

 
I have started work on the beam 3 assembly.  The lodging knees are attached to the beam but everything else is simply press fit in place.  I was lucky enough to have bright sun to take pictures in.  Yes, I know, light overcast is best to prevent shadows.  But sunlight picks up gaps and other irregularities better.  You can see the difference between beam set 2, which is finished and glued and beam set 3 which is still in the "rough" stage.
 

 

Richard, there are two issues here.  First, which woods are best suited to model building?  Second, which wood species look good together and (maybe) simulate the appearance of the prototype?  As far as the first question...any reasonably hard wood with minimal grain will work fine.  There are many builders who insist basswood is fine to use for hull planking.  Personally, I prefer to use hardwoods.  They cut cleaner, sand better and are more resistant to minor damage during the building process.  They, however, are more expensive and do not take paint as well as basswood.  Pear, swiss pear, costello boxwood, pau marfin, holly and satinwood come to mind for the lower hull planking.  For the wales and upperworks, wood with natural color (apple or cherry) or dyed/stained wood gives a nice contrast.  Check out the build logs or the gallery for a palate you find pleasing and contact the builder to find out what woods were employed.

Well, a few days has turned into a few weeks.  I received my cup burrs.  They do a nice job of smoothing the ends of brass "bolts".  There are several sizes available, depending on the gauge of the wire.  I purchased my from Widget Supply, a company that sells hobby supplies.  While on the site I found a great sanding devise, a 1/2" disc sander for the Dremel with several grits.  I used to get these from Micromark, but they stopped selling them last year.  The disc sander is perfect for outside tapers and when you want a less aggressive sander than the drum sander.  I have no connection to the company, simply a pleased customer.
 

 
I have installed beam set 4.  Notches have been cut into the bulkhead walls for the carlings and ledges.  I am much happier with the bolt head on the fore mast partner after rounding them up and painting them.  Blackening was not possible in situ and I was pleased with how it turned out.  The hole in the deck aft of beam 5 is for the pin of the bit.
 

 

Ben and Tom thanks. 
 
I have installed the bed platforms (three aft and one fore).  These are simple structures with a higher edge medially to help prevent rolling out of bed in rough weather.  Once everything was glued in place I applied a single coat of Watco's.  As I may have mentioned before, it appears their formula may have changed because it is causing a significant yellowing of the wood.  With the Costello box it is not an unpleasant yellowing...almost an aging look.  Compare these pictures with the bare wood pictures on the preceding page.  But I am not sure it works well for the holly.  Well, I have several months to work that out.
 

 

 

Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
 

 
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp.  I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway.  On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops.  The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
 

 

 

 

 

 

The scuttles in the fore deck are all fitted with covers.  There are sills that run fore and aft on the carlings that form the scuttle framing.  They can be seen in the first picture.  The cover rests on top of them.  These covers could either be fit to lift out (which is what I modeled) or hinged.  I deliberately made the covers slightly undersized so that they would stand out from the deck planking.The ring bolts are used to pull the covers and are 3" internal diameter.  They are made from blackened 24 g brass wire.They measure out correctly but look oversized to my eye.  All of the eyes are oriented fore and aft.  
 

 

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 7 – Stem and False Stem
I decided to do the stem next because I still have some checking to do on the drawings of the sternpost.

The first picture shows the four pieces involved.  They are all sided 16" - same as the keel.



In this picture the gripe and the false stem have already been assembled. Once the pieces were cut out and trimmed to their final shapes, the patterns were removed to permit close fitting of the joint. The two stem pieces in this picture have been cut to “almost” final shape and still have their patterns attached. Once the assembled forward assembly is fit and attached to the keel the stem pieces will be added – lower stem first then upper stem.

The next picture shows the connection to the keel assembly – not yet fit up.



The desired result in fitting this joint is that the false stem adheres to the line on the underlying drawing, and of course, that the joint gripe/keel assembly seams are tight.  The unfinished end of the keel rabbet can be seen in this picture.

The CAD patterns are extremely accurate. On these pieces I cut up to the 1-pixel line before final fitting. I use a disk sander where possible to keep the edges square. The final adjustment of the joint faces was done with a #0 barrette file with many test fitting. Some adjustment is being made in the next picture.

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In the next picture the back face (port side) of the joint is being checked for fit. The joint will be visible from both sides.



In the next picture the assembly is being glued to the keel while aligned on the drawing. Waxed paper is being used under the glue joints to protect the drawing..



Once the glue has dried and the assembly has been cleaned up, the lower stem is fit into place on the drawing to assure final alignment - as shown below.




The next picture shows the lower stem permanently attached and the upper stem being fitted. Again, patterns have been removed to be able to see the final joint line.




The last picture shows the finished assembly.







The forward edge of the rabbet runs along the joint between the stem and the false stem. Forward of the rabbet the false stem and the gripe taper to a smaller thickness forward – roughly in line with the planking. The rabbet should probably be at least partially cut at this stage.

It is also time to start thinking about bolts.


Ed