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garyshipwright

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  1. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from catopower in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Pilot Boat   
    Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about  breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using  a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times  I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
  2. Laugh
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in WOOD SHRINKAGE!   
    😊🥰
  3. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Thanks Druxey. I was sort of a newbe to the party and showed you a photo of my Richard. Of course some one forgot to tell me who the real ship builders were at that time. 😲It was a lot of fun and I will be glad when the NRG has another one in  either place, which  would make me one happy camper. Gary
  4. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Kurt you may ask Jim when you get ready to send it to him about keeping those parts for the Preac saw. He has a big heart about this thing's. Gary
  5. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Hi Kurt. I got my Preac in 2000 I believe at the Chicago NRG  conference or was it the the Mariner's Museum can't remember which one. Charlie was still with us and we talked about his saw and getting one.  Also meet David and Greg there with my daughter and misses. Believe she was 2.  Do remember some one wasn't happy that we had brought our daughter to the conference, but every thing turned out ok. I also went to the 2010 which I believe was the Chicago one. What your seeing is just a piece of wood that is setting between the fence and blade which is for keeping the blade  from cutting in to the fence. I did do one Mod to my Preac once I had all the pieces. My Byrnes saw came with the first mic that Jim installed on them which I got from him in 2002.   When I sent my table in to Jim I had removed the old mic and rail along with its brackets from the table and mounted it to the Preac. You have to drill holes and thread them for the brackets, which keeps the rail in place, but it wasn't to bad at all. It worked good until I sold it to a good friend who brought it for his shop. I had them set up like you have your's  for doing different cutting but I didn't use it much and figure selling it at a cost one could afford it, would be worth while. He also brought the hog and shipping which cost sometimes more then what you want for it just stop good folks from buying them if they lived to far away. 
  6. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from yvesvidal in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary





  7. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary





  8. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from allanyed in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Pilot Boat   
    Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about  breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using  a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times  I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
  9. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from hollowneck in WOOD SHRINKAGE!   
    😊🥰
  10. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in WOOD SHRINKAGE!   
    😊🥰
  11. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Thanks Druxey. I was sort of a newbe to the party and showed you a photo of my Richard. Of course some one forgot to tell me who the real ship builders were at that time. 😲It was a lot of fun and I will be glad when the NRG has another one in  either place, which  would make me one happy camper. Gary
  12. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Hi Kurt. I got my Preac in 2000 I believe at the Chicago NRG  conference or was it the the Mariner's Museum can't remember which one. Charlie was still with us and we talked about his saw and getting one.  Also meet David and Greg there with my daughter and misses. Believe she was 2.  Do remember some one wasn't happy that we had brought our daughter to the conference, but every thing turned out ok. I also went to the 2010 which I believe was the Chicago one. What your seeing is just a piece of wood that is setting between the fence and blade which is for keeping the blade  from cutting in to the fence. I did do one Mod to my Preac once I had all the pieces. My Byrnes saw came with the first mic that Jim installed on them which I got from him in 2002.   When I sent my table in to Jim I had removed the old mic and rail along with its brackets from the table and mounted it to the Preac. You have to drill holes and thread them for the brackets, which keeps the rail in place, but it wasn't to bad at all. It worked good until I sold it to a good friend who brought it for his shop. I had them set up like you have your's  for doing different cutting but I didn't use it much and figure selling it at a cost one could afford it, would be worth while. He also brought the hog and shipping which cost sometimes more then what you want for it just stop good folks from buying them if they lived to far away. 
  13. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Hi Keith. As far as the blade guard I took mine off when I first got the saw and as you  said, one has to be  a lot more careful. To make up for the missing guard I use push stick's to keep my fingers a good distance from the blade. I also have a 10 inch table say but the guard stays on because it float's above the table and is also part of the dust collection.  Works' great. I did just order the thin strip saw jig for my Byrnes saw. Should give me a nice cut plank using it. I don't think I have seen any one putting the top flush with the bench surface, and would like to see how they did  it.  
  14. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from KenW in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Pilot Boat   
    Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about  breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using  a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times  I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
  15. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from bruce d in WOOD SHRINKAGE!   
    😊🥰
  16. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Bill Morrison in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary





  17. Wow!
    garyshipwright got a reaction from AON in WOOD SHRINKAGE!   
    😊🥰
  18. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from druxey in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Thanks Druxey. I was sort of a newbe to the party and showed you a photo of my Richard. Of course some one forgot to tell me who the real ship builders were at that time. 😲It was a lot of fun and I will be glad when the NRG has another one in  either place, which  would make me one happy camper. Gary
  19. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from fake johnbull in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary





  20. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from albert in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary





  21. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary





  22. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class   
    Hi Kris and thank you. I did find a place, the office depot does this accept they use plastic rings instead of metal. She also put a clear plastic sheet on the front cover and a blue one on the back cover. Came out real nice and now resides in my library. Was very happy how it came out that's for sure. Once again thank you very much for putting this on the site. Gary
  23. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Hi Keith. As far as the blade guard I took mine off when I first got the saw and as you  said, one has to be  a lot more careful. To make up for the missing guard I use push stick's to keep my fingers a good distance from the blade. I also have a 10 inch table say but the guard stays on because it float's above the table and is also part of the dust collection.  Works' great. I did just order the thin strip saw jig for my Byrnes saw. Should give me a nice cut plank using it. I don't think I have seen any one putting the top flush with the bench surface, and would like to see how they did  it.  
  24. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from druxey in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.   
    Hi Keith. As far as the blade guard I took mine off when I first got the saw and as you  said, one has to be  a lot more careful. To make up for the missing guard I use push stick's to keep my fingers a good distance from the blade. I also have a 10 inch table say but the guard stays on because it float's above the table and is also part of the dust collection.  Works' great. I did just order the thin strip saw jig for my Byrnes saw. Should give me a nice cut plank using it. I don't think I have seen any one putting the top flush with the bench surface, and would like to see how they did  it.  
  25. Like
    garyshipwright got a reaction from hollowneck in HMS Winchelsea by rafine 1/48   
    Hi Bob. Our prayers go with you and may God watch over you and keep you safe during these trying times. Gary
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