garyshipwright

Glad to see you gave into temptation Tim! You won't regret your choice.
 
I second Glenn's comments about jigs. Half the art of milling is about finding the best ways to hold work down securely and in the best position to work on it. If you enjoy problem solving that's half the battle, but you'll also find lots of examples of jigs on the forum. As a starter, have a look at Marsalv's Royal Caroline build. In his current model he uses CNC machinery, but on Caroline you'll see what he was able to achieve with the standard MF70.
 
I also agree with Glenn on the Proxxon vice (PM40) and dividing head (#24 264).
 
Enjoy!
 
Derek

Hi, and tanks to all 😊
 
a question for Wayne et Allan: in the drawing, on the upper deck, the bread bins room is without a door, maybe it's just a platform? Thank you
 
 
 

Hi 😊
Tanks Justin, tanks Allan, and tanks to all
 

Hi, and tanks to all  😊
 
 

Hi 😊

Hi 😊

Hi 😊

Hi ☺️

The wood always moves, due to humidity, temperature, my hull is firmly at the top, med below, to reduce movement, it is better to insert the fillings in winter, or in any case when the wood has more humidity, then the temperature will rise, and the humidity will drop, small gaps will be created, and the hull will have little movement

Hi 😊

Beautiful work, Matiz.

Hi, and thanks to all
 
 

Alan , Rif put out 4 books of the British Warships in the in the age of sail, one through 1603-1714, 1714-1792, 1793-1817.1817-1863, all of them have a ton of info on the British warship. I do believe that  he also join up with David Lyon to put out one on the Stream ships.  I went looking for his other books and talk about being very expensive, his 1603- 1714 would cost you $5899.97. Of course you could get one a lot cheaper  on Amazon for 734.99. 😭They sure are not getting any cheaper that's for sure. Gary

The info is in the History of English Sea ordnance by Caruana. On page 237 he gives the PRO WO 51-291 as his reference. He does state that Alfred had a complete set of Carronades as well, including  eighteen 9 pound carronades. He goes on to say Rare though it was, there was a 9-pdr carronade, but it was presumably a civilian piece never officially adopted by the Navy. I always look in the back of the book's to see what they use as a reference and try to get that reference. Some times  it work's  out, other times its out of range as far as the cost goes.    

Alan just a question for you. When I was doing  more research on Alfred, which of course I have not ,stop I was searching the Public Record Office, better know as PRO, lead me to WO51/291/882H which lead me to info on what guns Alfred carried and ADM 51/34 1056 44 which was her log books  I believe, around the 1780's. This is when I was looking for info on the lathorn in the magazine.  I went through your build and couldn't find that you may of used these, hope they are of some help.  Gary

They have got a little on the expensive side havn't they. Druxey do you have Vol 1 also?  It is a nice set and a good addition for one's  library.

Alan , Rif put out 4 books of the British Warships in the in the age of sail, one through 1603-1714, 1714-1792, 1793-1817.1817-1863, all of them have a ton of info on the British warship. I do believe that  he also join up with David Lyon to put out one on the Stream ships.  I went looking for his other books and talk about being very expensive, his 1603- 1714 would cost you $5899.97. Of course you could get one a lot cheaper  on Amazon for 734.99. 😭They sure are not getting any cheaper that's for sure. Gary

Mark She is outstanding good sir and like you am  slow, slow , slow. After looking at her, she is one very gorgeous Lady and her fine lines are really showing through in the first photo. . Gary

It has been almost two months since my last post but I have been busy doing small projects.  Having recently completed a capstan in 1:16 scale, it was time to duplicate my efforts at 1:48.  If you have purchased the Capstan Project, I used the approach outlined in the advanced version.  The capstan on a ship of this size and from this era has five whelps and six bars.  I turned the spindle in a lathe and then used a mill to make it ten-sided.  The pencil marks are to help the edges stand out.  

The whelps were glued-up as a sandwich; the thickness was the maximal thickness of the whelp.  The sandwich was then glued to a block of wood, which was put into the mill vice.  The face was milled and the whelps were separated by soaking in isopropanol.  I made a few extra to allow for mistakes.  The whelp is wider at the bottom and on its face.  The final shape was achieved with a sanding stick.

The drumhead was made from four semicircular pieces and a cap.  I used thin adhesive-backed copper sheet as the iron ring.  I used liver of sulfur to give the copper a patina.

After the whelps were glued to the spindle, the chocks were made and installed and the bolts were installed.  The iron ring looks much better than the photo would suggest.  And the final result...

The next item I needed to address was the decorative molding.  The plans show the molding at the level of the bottom of the gunports.  The model shows the molding halfway up the gun ports.  The plan shows the bottom of the oar ports raised by the width of the molding.  The model shows them at the same level as the gun ports.
 
As it turned out, I (accidentally) built them at the same level, as shown on the model.  If I left the molding where it is seen in the plan, it would have gone through the oar ports.  So my choices were to rebuild the upper works to lower the oar ports or raise the molding, as seen on the model.  I went to the RMG site and looked at other models with oar ports; they were most commonly positioned at the same level as the gun ports.  Therefore, I decided to move the molding instead of the oar ports.  
 
The ship has eleven swivel gun mounts on each side, although she only carried eight guns.  These were located per the plan.  They were notched to fit over the rail.  Bolt holes were drilled.  The metal work will be installed later.  

 
The cathead and cathead knee were made next.  The cathead was sawn from a single piece wood.  Two sheaves were installed.  The cathead knee was made up of three pieces, as seen in the picture below; the final shape was attained with sanding drum and disc.  The cathead and knee were then temporarily installed.  No finish has been applied to either the swivel posts or the cathead.  As you can see in the third picture, the tops of the swivel posts have not been shaped yet.  They will be horizontal across ship and will parallel the shear when seen from the side.  Also temporarily fitted are the first oar port and gun port covers.  They will all be hinged horizontally.



Other small items which have been installed are the cleats (three per side) and the mast coats.  The entry ladders, pumps and capstan are temorarily in place.  

 
 

Mark She is outstanding good sir and like you am  slow, slow , slow. After looking at her, she is one very gorgeous Lady and her fine lines are really showing through in the first photo. . Gary

Slow but steady progress. I have planked up to the drift rail level, and look forward to cutting those volutes in the drift rail. I started this outboard planking 5 years ago to the day, and this is what I have to show for it. In this period I did cast the guns and prefabricate the beams for the remaining decks, but still slow, slow, slow!
 
My wife is threatening to put my ashes on this ship and push it out into the lake on fire, if I don't get it done before I pass away. So I am highly motivated to keep going....
 
Mark
 

Looking great, Mark.  Life does tend to get in the way but the threat of a Viking funeral seems a bit extreme but effect motivation.

Mark She is outstanding good sir and like you am  slow, slow , slow. After looking at her, she is one very gorgeous Lady and her fine lines are really showing through in the first photo. . Gary