garyshipwright

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

Hi Marsalv.   You are really doing a outstanding job and enjoying your build. Thank you for sharing.  Gary

Greg I couldn't agree with you more. Now were can I get one of those  CNC carvers. Very very nice marsaly and enjoying looking at your build. Gary

Good morning.

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

Thanks Mark and druxey your comments help keep me going, of course I have to thank the Swan guys, Greg and David  and their books for showing me some ideals that really help make the job a whole lot easier, such as how Greg would take a over size piece, get the joint to fit first and then cut out the rest of the item. Gives one lots of wiggle room. I take a over size piece and fit it to the wall and then cut out the front curve shape along with the upper edge of knee against the beam it self. Greg shows the stem and dead wood in vol 3, page 18 and  20.  Another thing to some that's not sure is take a piece of card file to fit the space. Put rubber cement on the open side and then clip it in place and the shape can then be filled in with small pieces to get the shape of that area. Once again thank you.   

Thanks Mark and druxey your comments help keep me going, of course I have to thank the Swan guys, Greg and David  and their books for showing me some ideals that really help make the job a whole lot easier, such as how Greg would take a over size piece, get the joint to fit first and then cut out the rest of the item. Gives one lots of wiggle room. I take a over size piece and fit it to the wall and then cut out the front curve shape along with the upper edge of knee against the beam it self. Greg shows the stem and dead wood in vol 3, page 18 and  20.  Another thing to some that's not sure is take a piece of card file to fit the space. Put rubber cement on the open side and then clip it in place and the shape can then be filled in with small pieces to get the shape of that area. Once again thank you.   

Thanks Mark and druxey your comments help keep me going, of course I have to thank the Swan guys, Greg and David  and their books for showing me some ideals that really help make the job a whole lot easier, such as how Greg would take a over size piece, get the joint to fit first and then cut out the rest of the item. Gives one lots of wiggle room. I take a over size piece and fit it to the wall and then cut out the front curve shape along with the upper edge of knee against the beam it self. Greg shows the stem and dead wood in vol 3, page 18 and  20.  Another thing to some that's not sure is take a piece of card file to fit the space. Put rubber cement on the open side and then clip it in place and the shape can then be filled in with small pieces to get the shape of that area. Once again thank you.   

Good morning Mark.
 
Yes that might have been a possibility except the timber body outline is from slicing the 3D model and then the centerline was sketched in, followed by the chocks and scarph joints on one side, then mirrored.  So if my centerline was off the mirrored items would not have fallen inside the frame outline but rather crossing to be outside of it, and I hope I would have spotted that.
 
What is as bad as having traced this onto a piece of wood and cutting it out and not noticing, I keep a log of my builds and bind them into a book for myself.  I snipped an image of frames off my drawing and copied it into my log quite some time ago.  It just so happens it was this frame and it's mate.  I didn't notice it then either!
 
I must have sketched it once wrong, made the correction on the other side and then didn't delete the original and mirror the proper.  It is the only thing that makes sense.
 
I worked for someone whose favourite saying was "it is what it is".  I argued "it is what you make it, and if you choose not to change the outcome, then you choose what it is".... I choose this to be correct.
 

The ratelines for the futtock shrouds of the mizzen mast are completed.
 
Furthermore I mounted a single block next to each trestle tree. These are used for the topping lifts of the mizzen boom. 
Soon I will continue with the ratlines of the foremast.

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

The futtock shrouds were meanwhile attached to the shrouds of the mizzen mast.
I have already started with the fixing of the ratlines.

 

Hi Guys. Have a question about the messenger rollers time frame when they were used. According to Peter Goodwin,  The Sailing Man of War, page 156, he says that they came in 1790/1792. Does any one know if they was in use earlier then this?  She was broken up in 1818 so adding them  as I show her would that be to much of a reach being they didn't come out till  10 years later? Also how did the messenger round the coner in the manger it self or was it helped along by the crew to do this taken away hands from the capstan?  I know it was three question but curious minds are wondering. I know it would be nice to have a time machine, but your thought's would be greatly appreciate.  Thanks.  Gary

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

Scrubbyj427 - I am using pear wood (steamed and not steamed - different color) and black hornbeam.
Completion of the quarter gallery.

small advance:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fore Cant Frame #2
Need to review how to make cants -back to instructions for aft cant in TFFM.
All cants are 4.77mm wide. Remember that the other “direction” will be the inner and outer hull surface, so extra will be removed later with hull sanding.
Decided to try again with the chocks- in any case shorter blanks are far less wasteful.
With#2 the bevel of the chuck is minimal. So I cheated. Made it as one piece, chiseled the chock out, and reassembled it. Looks o.k.
Triple check bevel angles, each is different. #2 is 32.5degs
TFFM also mentions additional small bevel at foot because the angled foot is wider than - I tried this before gluing, but insufficient, so remove some from base #1 can with a chisel It's easier after gluing so with do this with the rest of ribs as required.
Trunnels(staggered pattern as suggested). Hold in piece vice for position and “verticality”and use drill press.
Trunnels oversize at 0.7mm, but I want to see them. (also difficult for me to make smaller)
Fit, check “foot” doesn’t overstep step.If necessary pare back by beveling neighbouring #1cant foot (very slightly).
Glue,hold in place until holds up by itself, and adjust the angle so vertical (square) and alignment with the timberline as on the breadth plan ( previously made height card and holder).
Keep rechecking position maintained while glue dries( present weather, 5-7 mins)
Repeat for port twin.
They look symmetrical, so probably OK.  

Hello,
thanks for the positive feedback.
I'm still busy with the chain plates.
Here are some pictures of the current state of the model building:
 

 

 

 

 

In the meantime, not much has happened to the model.
But in this autumnal weather you spend more time inside again.
The futtock shrouds for the mizzen mast have already been prepared. The catharpins are now fixed.
The rear futtock shrouds have been fixed provisionally for the binding.

 

@Jorge Diaz O
Thanks ! 

Also thanks to you all for the LIKES.

The ratlines for the mizzen mast are ready.


The preparations for the futtock shrouds are in progress.

Thanks friends!
A few other small details before treating the model with shellac:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New look:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went a bit further in the work

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Siggi one of the contract's I have, time frame wise ,1770 and also used in 1775 says that the gun deck and upper deck had 11 per side. I looked for the number of standard's in a couple of books, for your time frame but could not find the number,  other then the number of them in your post. My reason for the question was if there is only two standards on the gun deck per side where would that placement be. Maybe as you said in the middle of the deck.  It does say the iron ones on the  upper deck were place under the forecastle and quarter deck but still doesn't say where. I added a picture showing the ones on my gun deck. It may come down to, she didn't have many, just what the establishments said. Siggi I was able to go back, contract wise to 1755 to the 74 gun ship Warspite and it said that there was 13 standards per side on the Gun/Upper deck. Then I went forward to 1763 to the Marlborough and seems to have been reduced down to 11per side per deck. I wonder if any one has contracts that takes us back even further. Sort of like a time machine.
Ggary