garyshipwright

Hello,
and many thanks for all the likes. A last picture this year

 

Looking good Ron. Believe it or not some of us our still learning. It still takes me a couple of tries to get it to the point that I like it. Keep up the good work. Will be watching your build. Gary

Ok guys with a bigger scrap box which I have and it's over flowing what is one to do with all the small little pieces of wood???  O I know send it to you  guys and let you figure that one out. You guys are talking about who has the biggest one right? 🤪

Ken usually the garboard strake next to the keel is a little on the finicky side. It widen's at the stern post and decreases at the stem. You don't want it getting to far up the stem and usually doesn't go to far past  the joint between the stem and the keel, maybe 6 inches. but each boat and ship are different here.  Once you get that one to your liking the rest of them should be a lot easier. If I get a chance I will take a photo of the one am doing on my Winchelsea which may be of some help to you. Gary

Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about  breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using  a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times  I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary

Very well put good sir,

Hi Shipman. You are right and time is short but one can think of it like this. When you build your ships you probably get a lot of enjoyment out of it, just like myself and others. Building the inside I get just has much enjoyment as building the out side even through we won't see it, that is unless you take photo's of them.  A lot of folks like you self also don't like building the inside, but that's ok because there is also a lot of folks like to build the inside.  It like building a 32 pounder on the gun deck. It takes awhile and building a cannon with a lot of detail just to be hidden by the upper deck,  will not be seen so why build them. Guess because I like building them and installing as much detail as my skill will let me.  They are just going to be hidden any way and all you will see is the barrel of the cannon. But I still get enjoyment out of building them and adding the detail to them hidden or not. I build them because of the sheer enjoyment that one get's from building a ship. You say that you will never understand the dubious ideal that considerable work on what will be entirely invisible details has any merit what so ever.  Well  a lot of folks like building the inside knowing that one day it will be covered up. The question is who's merit???? If you get merit out of you building then you must be enjoying it much as I do, making the parts and pieces that go in to it. Of course you may never understand it unless you do it. Which is your chose but getting the enjoyment out of your build is the most important thing.  Here is a photo of the magazine that one can not see now in her hold but can be seen with a photo, no pun intended good sir.

Hi Mark. Sounds like one building a model tank, build it with the guts or just build it as a hull. Lets us have a choice. I much prefere to build it with the guts. To me much more interesting even if I can't see the inside. At least I know it's there. Gary

Mike I would add another item to Greg accessories which will be a good one and that's the Sensitive  Drilling Attachment. Great when you drilling a lot of holes using very small drill bit's.  They really do make a lot of good accessories thats for sure. Gary

Before starting on the decking of the orlop I decided to plank between the waterway and spirketing in the stern of the ship,kind of a tricky task on the Mahonesa's because the waterway starts out nearly flat then makes a gradual climb towards the deck clamps,the bend of the planking in the stern area is so much that I had to make templates for every piece then cut each piece out of thicker material then sand in the curve top and bottom before fitting them in place.

another piece:





 

amen to that

The ship's wheel.
 
About 20 years ago, after the lower deck was completed, it was time to fabricate the rudder. The steering gear assembly, consisting of the tiller, tiller sweep, and tackle, resides just below the middle deck framing. It was built to be fully operational. Over the years, deck by deck, I made sure the tiller ropes were passed up through the structure. With so many mini-projects which are the sum of the whole involving ship building, the wheel was on the back burner of my mind. How and the heck was I going to build it?
 
As an artist, if I don't have a solution, I bypass it and work on other parts of the task at hand. The elephant in the room will tell me when it's ready. Finally I was approaching the point where I had to come up with the solution.
 
My long time friend, Simon, suggested 3-D printing. I gave him the scaled drawings (McKay) and photos of Victory's helm. In "Solid Works" he reproduced the wheel with all the numbers crunched for printing. This was sent off and when it came I knew it would not withstand the sands of time. Too fragile. It broke just trying handle an installation. The spokes were the problem.

 The time and energy to try a method which failed was not wasted. It was the catalyst that lit the light bulb of a successful solution.
 
In my studio is a large cabinet full of 1:32 models of WWI airplanes. I use Albion Alloys Ltd. Nickle tubing for turnbuckles for tensioning the rigging.  0.7mm o.d. x 0.5mm i.d tubing telescoped over .05mm tubing would look perfect.
 
I turned the wheels, hubs, and barrel on my lathe. I built a fixture, that I can't seem to find, to center everything. The tubing is cut to proper lengths by rolling sharp #11 Xacto blade over it. I twist the tip of the blade inside the tubing to remove burrs and file the outside edges to round them off. After a couple layers of paint they appear to be lathe turned. The whole assembly is very strong.
 
After installation I gathered the tiller ropes, clamped the rudder to one side, did seven wraps around the barrel, and spliced the ropes. Once the rudder was centered, the splice disappeared below decks. I had a working ship's wheel that turned the rudder. After showing my wife and a few friends how it worked, I came down from cloud nine and decided to stop doing that. I came to the realization that I don't have a miniature boatswain to fix it if something wears out.
 

If any one is interested I have a extra book of David Steel plates 1805 from Sim's Comfort that I would part with if any one is interest if they want it. The cost would be Vol 2 of the Naiad Frigate (38) 1797 Volume II by Edward Tosti with CD. I purchase a new set from Sim's after the fire took vol one and don't need two of the same book. Seems that Sea Watch book isn't going to reprint Vol 2 so I would be more then happy to trade vol 2 of David Steel's book of print's if some one is willing to trade Naiad vol 2 for it.  If interested let me know. Gary

amen to that

Hi Steve. I knew Victory  was floated in a drydock at Chatham because usually 1st and 2nd rates was  built in drydocks and was a little to big to be launched like a 3rd rate in a slip. I was just wonder how big was your base. Thank you for the info.  Gary 

I've been moving right along on the aft cant frames. Just like the fore cants, there is a long span between the upper and lower attachments which results in some flexing. To stiffen things up I placed chocks between the frames. This will help greatly to keep the frames from breaking loose while fairing. The chocks were placed in the area between upper wale and the lower planking strake. They will be completely hidden.

Mike

Thank you David, other photos.

I redid the columns of the base by reducing their size and added two side support bars. Now I feel it has more harmony and above all more stability
 

It almost feels like someone who is confident enough to tackle a POF would also be the type of person who would loft and cut their own frames.  I'm thinking you might have a larger pool of potential customers if you don't supply the wood, but do offer all of the templates needed for someone to cut their own frames, with very detailed instruction on how to cut/shape the difficult areas  (full-color photos/instructions, sexy book cover, etc).  I'll bet you could net out higher if you sold books at 300 bucks a pop (and low time investment in printing) instead of full kits at 2 grand (and a lot of time burned in creating material).. I could also see a lot of modeler's requesting a book (or set) as a Christmas gift from their spouse at 300 bucks a pop, but would not have success in asking said spouse to drop a couple grand for a kit.  If you found the right publisher and right mailing list, you might hit the jackpot. I've got a number of expensive books in my collection, but have no intention on creating the models; I just love having the books, looking at the photos, and knowing I could build the model some day if I ended up with an unexpected bonanza of free time.
 
If I were to tackle a POF, I could see myself paying for instructions/templates, but not the actual wood that I could cut/sand/shape myself.  The wood type is a limiter as well.  There would probably be people who might be interested in the kit, but only if it's in swiss-pear, etc. At this point in the game, if it were me, I'd create one or two kits and market them here and on your website, knowing that they would probably eventually sell, and then just replace them in stock one at a time as they do sell, so you could eventually recoup your investment, and also have a nice, random income source for as long as you want.  I think that in theory, with the right marketing, you could go either way; it would just be far less time consuming to create books than kits. 
 
EDIT: I would also absolutely offer this as a POB kit. 
 
2nd EDIT: Also as a miniature navy board project. lol 
 
Alan

Hello,
and many thanks for your comments and likes, they are very appreciated.
I'm at least always busy with painting! But this time more relaxed.  I painted all the deck beams and the walls of the galleries. 

Hello,
and many, many thanks.
Today I hope I finished that chapter. I do not like this painting very much. On these round surfaces is it extremely hard to paint a strait line! So, don't look too sharp. Without glasses you did't see the faults.  
Next would be the interior of the upper gun deck. With the windows of this deck I start when the beams of the quarter deck are laid.

Hello,
after now around the house and garden is all in perfect order and the weather is rainy and cold (11°C) I have no more excuses not to paint the counter. So I started with it today. 
And before I forget it, many thanks for all the likes and comments I got from you

Another interesting thing that I found in Falconers dictionary under coat. For me it's too late to install it, but may be for others it comes to the right time.

Hi Tobias and thank you for the compliments. Yes I drafted the plans of her, the half breadth plan and then her frames from that.  I also drafted the lay out of her deck lines from the shear plans. One does have to be very careful because after many years the plans have enlarge, grown and redrafting this parts, help's straighten this out. Makes her easier to build. I do thank you for your kind words. 

Hello and thank you Gary, and all others for there likes.
It is done, the lower finishings are build in. Painting them was very difficult, but also that is done.