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Hubac's Historian

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  1. It has been a good and productive day, as the figure rounds into form. For the next section, I am focused on the hips and abdomen, bordered by the breastbone and garland. It’s a small area, but surprisingly complex for conveying a sense of anatomy. The main thing to keep in mind is that this area gets divided into three levels of relief; the hips are the lowest level, while just slightly more proud is the lower abdomen, and topping all is the upper abdomen, which gets cut back rather sharply to create what will be the overhang of her breasts. The process in
  2. Thanks for that, Vic and EJ. As I say, videos would be tremendously more insightful, but these explanations open, at least, some window Into my process. Ultimately, a desire to get into all the tightest little corners, combined with an unwillingness to buy every carving knife on the planet, trained me to find the versatility in the few tools that I rely on. I think the main sacrifice, there, is speed.
  3. Alright, so it took me a moment to finish the tail on the port side figure, and then work the starboard side to the same point. The tails differ in small ways, but working the carvings in tandem helps ensure a degree of consistency from one side to the other. It is also helpful and faster, carving the second piece because all of the process you just worked through for the problems of that section are still fresh in your mind. The next section I concerned myself with is the flowing, billowy skirt, up to the lower edge of the bellflower garland. The process begins the sa
  4. Work on the middle deck is now complete. All of the main deck gussets are in place, now, and I have begun fitting the cambered main deck beams. These first two, are just aft of the main mast, and bookend the aft hatches. Now that I’m dealing, once again, with aspects of the model that are going to be seen - I am taking extra care to check and re-check measurements and maintain my centerline. Because of the necessity of framing around fixed openings in the deck, I have had to position shorter gussets over gun port openings, at times, and this has made for som
  5. Well, FC, taking an initial look-through at this project, I can fully appreciate why others here, at MSW, are concerned for your whereabouts. You are very talented! I’m late to the party, but I will read through the whole log and follow through to the end. Great work!
  6. This is what I love about MSW - someone, out there, always seems to have the perspective you are searching for. Nice work, Mark P!
  7. Excellent additional insights, Druxey, and thank you Dan and Mark. A video would be better, but hopefully what I’m trying to describe is sensible enough. And, Kurt, I think we can all attest the the devastation wrought with pool noodles by covert kids who want to spray is off out comfortable floatie!😉
  8. You absolutely can do it, Stephen. The primary requirements are time, commitment to a standard, and the willingness to just keep at it. I designed and made my first carved piece in 2003. It was a decent sized inlay for a piece of furniture -approximately 12” X 6”. I worked very hard at it, and it turned out okay. Mostly, because I took my time. Over the years, I learned how to work smaller and smaller - although, never really faster. If it interests you, I would suggest doing a basic relief carving, in wood, and at a reasonable size, just to get your feet wet. The
  9. In this second installment, I’ll discuss the initial planning and approach that goes into modeling the carving, while introducing the tools that I use the most, and discussing the techniques that have given me good results. At the stage pictured, below, I’ve invested about four hours cleaning to my outlines on each carving. I’ve used the smallest diameter drill bit I have - roughly 1/64” - to get in-between the head, wings and arms. Doing so, even to this minimal degree will greatly ease the cutting-in later. The carving blanks have good symmetry. I made one small drilling error in
  10. On the Ships of Scale site, a few members have expressed interest in my carving process. I’m still up in the air about creating a YouTube account for posting video content. I thought, though, that these Mer-Angels were a good opportunity to discuss my approach and technique in depth. The major benefit of what I do is that it doesn’t require a ton of specialized carving tools. Continue, below, for parts one and two of this series ______ I thought, perhaps, to demystify my carving process, that I would do short updates, as the carvings take shape. The first
  11. Any of Bellona’s crew, at the time, would certainly have agreed with you!
  12. So, last night, I ordered a pair of small, brass micro-planes. The quality appears decent, on EBAY, and they weren’t terribly expensive. What I like about them is that the sole is flat for the middle third, but there’s an entry and exit relief that should facilitate light, fairing passes. We’ll see what comes of that. I needed a good small-work project, so I have decided to tackle the low-relief Mer-Angels that flank the upper finishing of the quarter galleries. I’m carving these in 1/16” white styrene, and I will begin with the aft-most pair: It’s good to carve like-fi
  13. Hi Kudin- I love your videos! On this most recent video, I have a question for clarification: it seems that you are gluing your deck planking directly to the paper plan layout which, itself, must be glued to the sub-decking. What adhesive of paper to sub-decking do you use to ensure there’s no de-lamination? Clearly there are tremendous advantages to being able to taper planking directly to the layout, in-situ.
  14. Thanks for the reminder, Jan. Yes, I am also considering this approach - particularly with the top and t’gallant masts because you automatically have the squared foot that the masts require. It also enables me to mill perfectly straight stock, initially, rather than having to weed through any number of dowels, searching for straight examples. I’ve always wanted a mini violin maker’s plane, and this would be a great excuse to go out and buy one.
  15. Hi Mark - I also prefer the first figurehead, but I do think the actual ship would not have been launched without arms, as they would add gesture and expression to the figure. On the plus side, although it certainly begs a little due diligence, I suspect that her arms would be bare; or, at most, only short tunic sleeves.
  16. Hi Jonathan - can you remind me of the sail paper, please? Is it Modelspan? As for authentic sail color, perhaps take a look at the photo-log of Hermione on her maiden voyage across the Atlantic, after completion of her construction. That will likely give you a fair idea of realistic weathering.
  17. Work on the middle deck is coming along nicely. As mentioned, earlier, I found it much simpler to re-make the dummy carriage platforms from scratch, in order to achieve a close scribe without sacrificing platform depth. I used this simple scribing method to arrive at a faithful pattern for each side: You can see the relative flattening of the ship’s sides, here, with the new pattern mapped-out on white styrene: Once I had achieved a close scribe for each side platform, and before gluing them in place, I checked for the ideal positioning of the dummy carriage
  18. Really nicely proportioned carriages, and excellent consistency of effort and standards.
  19. I’m particularly excited for this sail-making portion of the build. ‘Looks like you have everything prepped perfectly, and now it’s onto the magic! The Galleon model looks awesome, BTW!
  20. Well, since my return to work, the pace of work has slowed, but I have still managed to make good progress. This evening, I completed the lower gun deck. Typical of my approach to this build - because I want it to remain fully intact over the next six or seven construction years (hopefully shorter😉) - I have over-engineered everything. Once all of the dummy carriage blocks were in place, I decided to add backing blocks for a little extra connection/insurance, so that when I glue in the gun barrels, at the end of the project, I won’t loosen the dummy carriage blocks:
  21. Spectacular progress - very nice framing! I watch your build with great interest, as I consider converting Heller’s Victory to this 1765 appearance - way down the road. You are doing a fabulous job, so far.
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