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Hubac's Historian

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  1. I hear what you’re saying Chapman, although if I were serving on a ship like this, I wouldn’t mind having a little extra shelter around me while I do my business.
  2. These are difficult to photograph, but I am very happy with the modeling and the overall impression of these: Now that I have worked through the problems, the starboard pair should come out even better. To finish these off, I’ll insert domed bits of styrene rod into the eye sockets. I really appreciate all of the likes and kind comments!
  3. The ship is looking really fine, Gary, and I could not agree with you more about the Tally-Ho project!
  4. Hello Chapman, A while back, I had a conversation with Michel Saunier about this, and I have to say that I agree that the roundhouses are most likely incorrect for a French ship of the First Marine. To borrow an example of one of my favorite models of all time, here is the head of L’Ambiteaux: As a side note, this modeler’s rendering of the ornamental program is the best and most faithful to the spirit of the epoch, IMO. What I think is notable, here, is the way that the hull wraps around, past the beakhead bulkhead, in a diminishing crescen
  5. One of the primary benefits of the long time that it has taken me to get to this point is that I have had plenty of time to figure out how best to tackle the more vexing aspects of the ornamental program. The amortisement of the quarter galleries is tricky because it must all remain very shallow, while giving the impression of a full relief. The specific aspect of the amortisement that I am working on now are these pairs of dolphins, flanking the two windows, on the main deck level: My interpretation of this carving is that the inner dolphins should project,
  6. Thanks, EJ! The year marker is my own idea as a way to fill an awkward space in the trailboard, where Berain’s design no longer fit neatly. As far as I know, this was not a known practice, in 17th C. France, and the only specific year marker I can think of appears on the tafferal of the Vasa. In build news, I’ve extended the beakhead deck (15/32”, overall), from the center/out, and am thinking about ways in which I will modify the beakhead bulkhead. Since I have a number of stern plates to pull from, it was a no-brainer to include the Arms of France and place them whe
  7. Thanks, Guys! Druxey, I’ll give rubber cement a try on the next go-round. I’ll be making the supporting dolphins that flank the middle pair of windows, of the amortisement.
  8. Excellent tip, Dan! I will look into it, as this yellow ocher color I mixed is exactly what I want. It would just be nice to not have to waste so much paint, in the process - overloading the brush, wicking off the excess and trying to apply before having to rinse, etc. Welp - at long last - SUCCESS!
  9. Of all the carved work that I have done for this project so far, the trailboard has been the most vexing, by a long-shot. While I usually double-stick the work to a scrap of masonite, I reasoned that I would need to work this carving, constantly, from one side to the other. The necessity of this approach, as I quickly discovered, is underscored by the fact that - despite a sound indexing point, in the half-round forward notch - the paper patterns were just askew of each other, from one side to the other. I wonder whether this can be attributed to the paper expanding un
  10. Hey EJ - ‘just catching up with your log. The stern and QGs are very neatly framed and trimmed out. Beautiful work on the scarfed wales, as well.
  11. Thank you, Mark! My goal, always, is to reduce the impression of plastic as much as possible. Sometime in the not-too-distant future, I’ll begin painting the stern, and then the thing will really start to come to life.
  12. The stem and figurehead in place: This is the trailboard layout that I have arrived at: I find that it is much easier to neatly draw something on vellum because you can mark-out reliable reference lines, and the paper has tooth. You can also erase easily and forever on vellum which, in the case of something like this, is extremely helpful. My layout of the Berain design was going very well until the foremost section, in front of the big fleur. The essential problem is that Heller threw a wrench into the design with the way that the tail of the figurehe
  13. Gaetan, as always your work is impeccable, and your ship is rounding into form beautifully. Thank you for posting that listing of NRJ article subjects. I will have to obtain a set of the CDs. If I may ask about the chatter groove on the aft face of the rudder - in what period of French naval architecture did this groove first appear?
  14. Thank you, Louie! Just wait until you see the actual stem/figurehead; the paint work in that really is the best of my ability. In particular, there is a greater depth of grey-shade on the white portion of the horse. This looks so good, IMO, that I have decided that the four continental figures will be done in this fashion; grey-shaded white flesh with gilded vestments. The Four Seasons figures will have natural flesh tones with gold leaf vestments, and possibly silver leaf washed with translucent green for the foliate head-dresses. I’ll have to see what that looks like. The Pi
  15. I’m enjoying a very pleasant and relaxing family vacation in Dennis Port, Cape Cod. I was close to finishing up the amortisment crowns, so I brought them with me. I had to simplify the design a little bit; the fleur-de-lis are really tiny, so while the design calls for three, I found I could only really make a good relief for the central one. I’m also attempting to layout the trailboard, but it is difficult to reliably draw something so complicated onto styrene - the pencil skates across the surface. Even if I don’t come up with a polished design, I can at least work o
  16. Given these reasonable arguments for keeping the spritsail holes, and given that Lemineur shows them in his monograph for the St. Philippe, I would be inclined to represent them for this time in 1689. There’s a good chance, though, that my diorama won’t have the spritsails unfurled, so it is a moot point for this model.
  17. I did not know this. So, Druxey, is it incorrect to show this sail detail in the latter half of the 17th Century? The bowsprits of French ships, at this time, are pretty steeply raked.
  18. Once again, a beautiful model, Don! If I had seen it earlier, I'd have followed the build. You're work is so clean, and I appreciate the spare workmanlike quality of your execution of the ship. And that base ROCKS!😉
  19. That is more than okay, John. I am gratified that you are getting useful insight from it all, and I really appreciate the kind words. I am happy to help others, as so many, here, have been extremely helpful to me. In large part, that is what this hobby is all about. You should check out EJ_L’s fine Soleil Royal build. I believe it is also the Sergal kit. EJ chose to make all of the ornaments from scratch and he made a fabulous first effort of it.
  20. You’re in plenty good shape, Henry. I have some main deck line leads to figure out (if I remember correctly, you already addressed this topic in your build) for the main tacks and sheets, but it will be a longtime before I advance beyond that point. It will be cool to make use of the chesstrees (sp?) that I added to the upper bulwarks. CF, I totally agree with you about restrained use of gold - that is, indeed, my strategy.
  21. What are you worried about Piet? You’re still the front-runner! I’ll give it til’ Sunday, 12 midnight, EST. If no one else responds, then you’re the Man!
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