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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    Thank you Jon. For the aft skylight, I cut the base plate from 0.3 mm brass sheet and blackened it. I made the railing of the skylight from 0.7 mm brass wire, but I couldn't clean up the excess solder using my old files. So, I ordered a new set of files. I'll work on that later. Nothing is glued in place yet.
  2. mtbediz
    I am working on captain's skylight. I prepared a hexagonal prism and a hexagonal-based conical prism from pear wood, adding details cut from 0.5 mm pear strips. I used black paint to represent the windows and made the window bars out of 0.5 mm brass wire. Finally, I finished it with a matte varnish."
  3. mtbediz
    Never hesitate to ask anything Greg. I'm here to answer questions. Yes, I did exactly as you said and added a beam there. There are a lot of auxiliary beams on the original ship that I didn't add to my model anyway. And yes, I'll plank the aft side of the mizzen mast later.
  4. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. I was wondering where these ropes go and wanted to do a virtual tour to see them, but as you said, they go through the pantry.
  5. mtbediz
    Thank you so much for the pictures Jon.
  6. mtbediz
    Thank you so much.
  7. mtbediz
    I made the deck planking for where the ship's wheel would sit and mounted it in place.
  8. mtbediz
    Thank you Jon.
  9. mtbediz
    Helm pedestals were made.
  10. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. We have a saying; "The tool works but the hand boasts". Proper tools really make my life a lot easier.
  11. mtbediz
    Thanks Jon. I tried to make the spokes out of wood but they were really thin and broke during the turning process. It turned out I needed a drawplate but for now I'll have to make do with metal spokes.
  12. mtbediz
    Assembly of the steering wheels done. Since I couldn't find 0.8 mm diameter wooden rod, I made the spokes from metal wire. Later, I will paint them all the same color.
  13. mtbediz
    I didn't want to go down that path because I foresaw that this would happen to me I chose a path that I felt safe in. Also, I wasn't an expert in soldering, but I learned quickly while doing it. Thanks for the steering wheel plans Jon, they will come in handy.
  14. mtbediz
    Round nose pliers is an ideal tool to make those loops.
  15. mtbediz
    Nope, that's just sandpaper attached to a round stick with double-sided tape.
  16. mtbediz
    I began fabricating the ship's wheel. I started with the fellies Photos tell everything
  17. mtbediz
    Hi Peter, I will try to explain how I made the double eye bolts. First I cut 20 mm long brass rod from 0,5 mm brass wire. I make loops on both ends of the rod with round nose pliers then I bend the rod in the middle with needle-nose pliers.
  18. mtbediz
    Hi Greg, I used 0,7 mm brass wire.
  19. mtbediz
    All the canopies are complete. I will paint them.
  20. mtbediz
    Hi Peter, I used a round nose pliers, needle-nose pliers and side cutter. I will tell you how I made the double eye bolts with photos tomorrow morning. It's not so difficult.
  21. mtbediz
    Hi Peter, My method is actually quite simple and easy to apply. If you can be patient, I will show you with photos tomorrow. I can't do it right now because it's too late in the country I'm in.
  22. mtbediz
    If you mean the eyebolts on the gun beds, then yes, I won't be adding tackless to them. Because I added a tackle to a carronade to try it out and I didn't like the look because it looked too crowded. After all, the model is ours, we can do whatever we want.
  23. mtbediz
    Great job Greg. I don't know the quality of the ropes you're going to use for the rigging, but if there is any fuzz on the ropes, a quick run of a lighter flame over the ropes will remove the fuzz and make it look much better. Just a tip before you start.
  24. mtbediz
    I completed two of the canopies.
  25. mtbediz
    I admire Xken's metalwork, but there's no way I'll ever reach that level. I didn't try to join the rods together by making a central hub, I concentrated on joining them together by soldering neatly in the centre. Because I couldn't convince myself that I could make such a hub to scale. After a few unsuccessful attempts I found a method that gave me a satisfactory result. As can be seen in the photos I fixed the 0,7 mm diameter rods on a flat surface and soldered them all together in the centre. Here only the diagonal rods are in single piece, the other four are separate pieces. I then bent the rods using a jig and fixed it to a jig to solder the horizontal rods. I find the result satisfactory but the excess solders still need to be filed down.

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