Beckmann

Hi TJM, thank you very much for your explanations. I did not know, that there exists a list of ship names. I used to spend hours, looking througt the online-archive in search of special plans. This list is of great value if you are looking for something, it contains also ships of similar construction. Thanks a lot for that. Matthias

Hi TJM, I just came across your build log of the Frigate Christiania and this topic about the CAD-plans on the basis of the riksarchiv. I am myself very interested in the danish navy and have a build log myself about building the stern-section of the orlogskib TRE KRONER from 1742. Maybe we can get in contact about how to use the riksarchiv best, I have the problem of not understanding danish language very well, but my method of working with the plans is similar to your method. Matthias

Hi Igor, Can you make CNC carvings yourself? And did you try it with the ornaments of L’Ambitieux or Dauphin Royale? Matthias

Good morning Igor, that looks fantastic!! How can you transform these drawings now into a real model? Can you use them for Cnc carving? Matthias

Dear colleagues, thanks for the likes and comments, As a short addendum to my previous post, here are three more pictures of the now completed ‘underste Kajyt’, best regards, Matthias

Hi Tartane, Thank you for your message, I hope to begin with the carvings in 3-4 months. Matthias

Hello everyone, After the summer break, I have returned to the TRE KRONER. The model continues to develop from bottom to top, so the interior of the ‘Underste Kajyt’ is currently being worked on, as well as the continuation of the transom from the outside. Here we start with the cantilevered balcony, which was glued into shape from two layers of pear wood and butt-jointed to the model: The cornices that form the end here are again partially curved. I experimented a little and steamed the rather stiff boxwood mouldings (7/10 mm) in the cooking pot and shaped them. This works quite well for continuous curves, from which the segments for the side pockets are cut, the attempt for the balcony railing went wrong, I then discarded that and chose another way: In principle, this consists of building a jig in which the moulding is fixed and the profile is profiled to its final shape. The advantage is that there is no need for hot forming or the use of force if it doesn't quite fit and the profile follows the mould neatly. The disadvantage, of course, is that the curved ends always run slightly against the fibre, which makes the profiling process somewhat laborious. Here are the first cornices fitted to the model, the accuracy of fit is quite good: Finally, I continued working on the interior. I've had some feedback that my choice of colours is not authentic and that the colour scheme is definitely too strong. However, I have somehow fallen in love with this petrol shade and find it quite suitable. The bold interior colours are also not completely untypical for the Baroque period; you can find something similar in residential buildings. The colour restraint only really became predominant again in Classicism with the imitation of the ideal material marble. Anyway, I stuck with my colour and painted the stern bench, rudder head box and panels the same colour. Best regards, Matthias

Thanks Chuck, One day I would like to add the medway longboat to this collection. Will there be the chance of getting a kit of the longboat in future? Matthias

Hello everybody, in the summer, unfortunately, nothing is really going on in the workshop, but a little bit has happened with the displaycase. I've changed the arrangement of the models a bit and today they were given a trial run. Matthias

Very impressive and perfectly executed. Congratulation. Are you going to make a display case for the model? It will be huge. Matthias

Hello everyone, and thank you for your interest and comments. Not much has happened since my last post, but I have decided on a color to be used for the paneling of the “underste Kajyt”. Siggi had suggested a turquoise color, which is common for the rococo-style. In addition to all sorts of other suggestions such as grey, natural or red, I somehow stuck with it. Not because it was historically vouched for my model, but because it is something different from the usual red and white, and spreads a Northern European-Scandinavian cool atmosphere, which I like for my model, it is not English, so red would have been a good choice. It may still be a little intense, but I'll leave it that way for now: In the Danish National Archives, under the archive number A 1175d, there is a layout of the stern cabins of the Orlog ship ELEPHANTEN (same size, same designer and same year of construction as the TRE KRONER) and under the archive number A 975 an elaborately drawn longitudinal section of a Danish ship oft he line, which also shows the paneling of the “underste Kajyt” and the “Storre Kajyt” (great cabin). The “Storre Kajyt” has fluted flat columns with Corinthian capitals. I am basing my model on both drawings, i.e. there will be no partitions in the areas of my stern section and the paneling in the upper cabin will be correspondingly more elaborate. Further clues are provided by a contemporary cutaway model from the Krigsmuseet, where the rudder trunk, the stern bench and a bookshelf are beautifully depicted, and the preserved interior of the Swedish royal yacht AMPHION in the Sjohistoriska Museet in Stockholm. It doesn't have to be quite so magnificent, but the columns and the paneling are comparable to the sectional drawing A 975 (see above) I visited and photographed the Amphion myself, it is extremely impressive. Best regards, Matthias

Hello everybody, At the moment I am planning how to colour the interior of the lower deck cabin. I've looked through all my picture books and picked out a selection of interior shots. There are all sorts of things: Left natural: Or bright blue: Or the panelling and rear gallery inside in black: But also red: The more detailed pictures are from the Princess Royal, red bulkheads, inside of the stern gallery red, sides natural with red beams and black below the ports, red deck beams and knees: Is there any more information on this anywhere in the literature? I actually wanted to paint the lower cabin red, with a stern bench, rudder trunk and one or two rows of supports in red under the red deck beams. Then white in the upper cabin. Nothing has happened yet, here is the status of my work, I would be pleased to receive suggestions for the correct colour scheme. Best regards Matthias

Hello and thank you for your encouragement, In the meantime, I have made some progress on the lower section of the stern-gallery and added the cornices and surrounds for the parapet panels. The gallery windows have also been partially installed, but still without glazing. The basic structure is already quite recognisable. There is nothing new to report on the craftsmanship at the moment; it is essential to create the correct bending radii in advance so that each moulding finds its correct place in the arrangement. The foliage carvings will later be inserted into the black fields below the window gallery and the arcanthus fronds below the side gallery, but there is still some way to go until then, although my fingers are itching to get started. But first I'll continue with the interior of the model, the panelling of the lower cabin is laser-cut from 2 mm pear wood, the posts and transoms are placed along the markings. I originally wanted to leave it natural, but now I'm leaning towards painting everything brown-red, like the windows of the rear gallery. Best regards, Matthias Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Hello everybody, I'm slowly making progress with the building of the quarter galleries. First Im made myself a certain supply of mouldings. These mouldings have to be prebent. On a scale of 1:32, boxwood mouldings are quite stubborn. Cold bending and clamping them in place is not an option, nor is it any fun, as the slightest slippage disturbs the whole arrangement considerably. Heating with an iron doesn't work with mouldings either. After some try and error, I got stuck with the hot air gun. However, you have to work carefully with it, so that the moulding can be bent and remains in its curved shape, it has to be heated quite strongly, but the surface should not get brown. A moment too long will result in a charred surface. The model in the Nationalmuseet at Copenhagen has painted mouldings, but I prefer to leave them natural. Here you can see my somewhat primitive bending device. The bent moulding is then filed at the ends so that the ends match the profile. In the corner areas, however, the curves become so tight that bending no longer works. I used the scraper to round off the middle moulding, which was very tedious. In the protruding corner area of the lower gallery end, I cut a round disc with the circular hole saw, clamped it in the upright drill and inserted the scraper there while the machine was running. The long wood areas turned out well, the cross wood areas can be thrown away. But it only needs a 50-60° cut-out, so it worked. The lower "drop" of the side gallery was sanded freehand from a piece of pear wood. Now a few more photos from the state of construction The windows do not fit very well, I will make new ones, now, that the exact shape is fix. Best regards, Matthias

Hello everyone, Just a small note today, perhaps the information will be helpful for some of you. The fancy moldings of the TRE KRONER are an important element, so I have been looking around to see if it is possible to get an ornamental scraper wich is more precise than I can achieve by hand with a file and saw. After several inquiries, I ended up at the company MetallEhrnsberger in Teublitz/Germany, which also accepts such small private orders. I had to send them a CAD drawing of the desired profiles and of course select a material for the scraper, that was all I needed. I chosed 1 mm thick steel, the costs were €40 altogehter. I am very happy with the result. I couldn't have made the scraper that nice. The material thickness of 1 mm also makes it possible to sharpen the burr several times if it gets a bit round. I used boxwood as the material for the strips. I had sawn up a supply of it some time ago and left it to dry. Matthias