Pierretessier

Tabernac c'est compliquez . 
Excuse my french. Loving the details and its just the beginning.  So glad to be on board to see this build. 

Officially finished my first build.
Finished her with a Minwax wipe on poly, gave it a nice finish I was looking for.
 
She is now proudly displayed on the mantel.
Time to clean up the bench and get ready for my next build....
 

Little update, been a while since I’ve done any work on the ship. Had a little health issue I’m dealing with. I’m now looking at returning to the shipyard. I need to set things up workbench wise then I need to find and study the build from were I left of. Zoltan sent me some updated build details that will greatly help moving forward. Hoooing to start posting soon. Looking forward to returning.

Have not been here for a bit....WOW I am floored. This is museum quality. Nice work mate!

Hey Doug,
 
Looking real good, totally agree regarding fairing the blocks. I just spent the weekend with band aids on my thumb. Not that I'm much of an othority on this but I am finding that a pillow and various blocks of wood with coarse sandpaper the best assurance to a nice hull. It's taking a lot of time and patience, trying to keep it all in one piece is key. All in all it's pretty relaxing when you just take your time..... Hey there's my new signature....
 
Keep up the good work....

Looking like you're making headway. I know what you mean about fairing the hull. I just began mine. Slow going and tender handling. Keep up the good work. I'm enjoying the build. 

Thanks for the kind words. For those following, a little update, I did some preliminary panelling on both sides at the stern and bulkhead 11. Next I started fairing the blocks at the bow, this is a slow going process. 


 
Not much to look at I know but this step takes time. You know what they say! "The foundation to a good planking job starts with proper fairing of the hull. "

Hey Doug,
 
Looking real good, totally agree regarding fairing the blocks. I just spent the weekend with band aids on my thumb. Not that I'm much of an othority on this but I am finding that a pillow and various blocks of wood with coarse sandpaper the best assurance to a nice hull. It's taking a lot of time and patience, trying to keep it all in one piece is key. All in all it's pretty relaxing when you just take your time..... Hey there's my new signature....
 
Keep up the good work....

Santa Maria by Pierre Tessier - Maris Stella - 1:60
This is a Christmas gift from my son, I promised myself I would finish the Batelina before starting this one. Now that my first build is complete and my shop is clean I can begin my second build and build log here on MSW.
 
I must mention that I was pleasantly surprised when I met Zoran from MarisStella, here online. He saw that I was building the Batelina and noticed I posted that I had the Santa Maria on the shelf. He got in touch with me and mentioned that he was in the process of re-writing the build manuals for the latter, and offered his re-wright.
This would allow, help, a beginner to go about the proper way of building this kit. Also must point out this is single layer POB construction.
Maris Stella School of Model Ship Building has categorized this as a "Beginner Set: Level 3" which according to them should be your 5th build. I am in no way an expert nor do I feel I am better then others but thought this would be a great 2nd build as I do like challenges. Hopefully I did not bite off more then I can chew. (If I do I have Zoran to help....lol)
Now about the box, two full size plan sheets, two plywood laser cut parts, two hardwood laser detailed bits and parts, full stock of beautiful walnut and mahogany wood planks, strips and dowels, bag of hardware including canons, guns, hinges, bags of wooden bits, anchor, rope, carving block for 2 small boats and pre sown embroidered sails, expert build manual. (Beginner manual being written as we speak) 
Kit box closed

Kit box open

Kit box stuff

Plan 1

Plan 2

First step to do according to manual is to take inventory of supplied wood.
Lumber yard (bundled as per material list.)

Next I built the stand with an. 11.4mm incline at the bow. This is to allow proper alignment of the bulkheads when using a square.
Stand plan

Stand keel 11.4mm offset

Stand 

90' without offset   --- 90' with offset

Plywood Elements


That's it for now, next I will post the work to be done to prepare the keel for the bulkheads.  Did I say how much I am enjoying this hobby, So looking forward to building and learning more I'm like a kid learning to walk for the first time.....lol...anyway until next time.
Cheers.
 

Coming along nicely Don, love the mill work.

Loving it! The details! Your work is commendable. Windlass details down to the square peg holes are a nice added touch and that brass pot sitting on your stove is pretty nice too.
Keep the pics coming mate....

Looking like you're making headway. I know what you mean about fairing the hull. I just began mine. Slow going and tender handling. Keep up the good work. I'm enjoying the build. 

Yes looking real good. Question Don, is that the rope that comes with the kit?

Yes looking real good. Question Don, is that the rope that comes with the kit?

'She is looking sweet indeed. 

Nice reward
Looks like it will be quite a big ship once she is done.

What i have done recently on her. Planking is finally complete.

Hi Pete,
 
If I understand well the thickness of the plank is the thickness of a half frame, it was about 1/2 inch.
I guess you would like to know the size of all the bundle as in the picture.
 
It is not a good idea, for many reasons, and these 2 specifically:
 
stack of plank was for frames only and to add planking  and decks is difficult to calculate, especially the loss when cutting. Iy is not an exact science, guess is even a stronger way to be closer to what you need.
 
a 74 guns at 1/48 is roughly: 1 foot by 4 feet by 1,5 foot: 6 cubic feet
a 74 guns at 1/24 is roughly: 2 feet by 8 feet by 3 feet: and it is more than the 2X
 
Nevertheless, here is what I usually do to estimate the quantity: I buy a quantity of wood which is between 1 and 2 times the volume of the model: a 74 at 1/48 would be 6  cubic feet.
 
Every time I tried to calculate a wood quantity to buy, I had to go back later to buy some more.
So If I need 6 cubic feet, I would buy the double, this way I am sure not to arrive short and if there is too much, I will have some for the next one.

Monday and Tuesday, April 17/18 2017
 
It 's time to get myself dirty with brushes and colors . .
 
More precisely I painted with a matt acrylic white part of the gunwales.
 
For the first time I experienced the suggestion I received sometime ago from a friend modeler (expert in plastic modelling) that explained me the trick to prevent paint managing to sneak under the masking tape. The trick is to apply a coat of transparent (and matt in this case) paint on the border area between the masking tape and the part to be painted before using the final color paint. This clear paint seals the microscopic cracks that inevitably form . . It works great, thank you rudyf-104.
 
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I have also painted two wood strips in white: these are the wales to be applied immediately below the gunwale. My only problem: I do not know why but the acrylic white covering was poor and I had to apply many coats before obtaining a proper color. Luckily with the hairdryer trick I did not have to wait the paint getting dry between coats.
 
03 - 20170417_171323.jpg

Finally I proceeded to color with black acrylic the outer part of the hull, leaving for the moment unpainted the part where the wales will be installed, still to be completed and glued. I will do this task in the coming days.
 
04 - 20170418_174811.jpg

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Greetings, Jack.

Very interesting to see just how much time and wood goes in this. Wondering if you are keeping a time log on this project and also what the weight of the final build will be. Agree with other post regarding needing a bigger door, I was wondering about the muscles needed to move such a piece. 

Tabernac c'est compliquez . 
Excuse my french. Loving the details and its just the beginning.  So glad to be on board to see this build. 

The keel is now in 4  or 5 parts and extensive milling has been worked almost completely.
Both extremities are taper but only at the height of the frames to allow the external planking to fit flush with the keel.
The keel beams are not tapered they remain full.
I am beginning to fit the ''lock beam'' above the frames.
When this part will be completed, beams will be assembled.
The fitting of the beams on the keel is done at this stage because it is easier to manipulate just a part of the frame instead of the entire frame.

Nice reward
Looks like it will be quite a big ship once she is done.

I thought the planking was going remarkably well but then of course I found a small problem.  The planks were sitting proud of the stern bulkheads close to the garboard strake.  I thought that to correct this I would add a shim.  However, thinking into it a little longer I decided this wasn't the best approach because it would only cause me problems further down the line.
 

Of course, the best solution was to remove and replace.  Which is what I did
 

I then reattached the planks and made sure they were fastened to the keel and bulkheads
 

After which, I used my proportional dividers to determine that the plank on the forward part of the ship needed to be shaved down a bit so that it would match the stern.
 

I think I am now back on track (I hope).

 

 
 

Rob, when I do miniature carving, I do not watch tv, because I really need to focus on the movement of the tool.
 
Since I was  very young, when I wanted to study, I turned tv on... like this, I controlled the sound I heard, and  this way I did not hear other sound by other people.
It is not all tasks which needs 100%  of focus.
I guess it is like the new thermostat for heating, it does not always heat at 100% to keep the temperature stable.