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drobinson02199

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Everything posted by drobinson02199

  1. I've now planked the sides and rear transom with mahogany, and I'm pretty satisfied. I haven't hit it yet with the 400 grit -- I'll wait on that until I finish it. See picture 1. The bow area is planked with individual strips running keel to edge, and they are made of balsa and are flimsy and don't sand down well. I covered them with wood filler to try to smooth them a bit, but that area was still pretty ugly. See pictures 2 and 3. Fortunately, the instructions call for spreading a layer of Bondo onto that area after the mahogany sides go on, and because I've built a Dumas boat before, I had some Bondo on the shelf. Pic 4 shows the result, and while it's not final-sanded, it's pretty smooth now and the join between the bottom and sides looks good now. The color changes you see between the Bondo, the wood filler, and the actual wood are actually pretty smooth, although they don't look it to the eye. The waterline leaves the bow and travels across the lower mahogany side, so all of the bottom, and all of the join between the mahogany and the Bondo (below the waterline), will be painted bow to stern in Hunter Green. The finished mahogany is above the water line. Now I have to decide when to paint the bottom up to the waterline. I am paranoid about paint getting under the tape and onto the mahogany, so I'll want to keep the boat oriented so the taped edge faces down. I also don't want to have too much superstructure on the boat when I paint it. So that will be a step coming soon, but I need to read way ahead to see what's coming. Regards, David
  2. Mystery solved. The issue for me was the alignment of the first mahogany strip. Common sense says it should be aligned with the bottom of the side of the boat, where the side meets the bottom. But the instructions say to follow the bottom of the side panel, which if you look at the attached pic would leave a gap. I called Dumas, and the common sense answer is the right one. I think what happened is that they intended the sides to overlap the bottom, and I had the bottom overlap the sides. The instructions really aren't clear about that -- in fact, I think if followed literally they lead to what I did. But no matter -- I can align to the true bottom with no problems. But thought I'd post this for any of you who are getting ready to build one of these, particularly for Tom. Regards, David
  3. Hull now complete through the first planking (I really should say "paneling"). Next step is mahogany strip planking, but I need to ask Dumas a question first about alignment -- the instructions are clear, but if I follow them what will show on the boat doesn't make sense to me. Regards, David
  4. Here's the start of the hull. This was a difficult assembly. The boat "sheer" is stapled to the workbench, and the instructions say to glue the frames to it, and then glue on the keel. Lots of issues doing it that way. So I glued each frame from bow back to the keel, dry fitted that assembly and let it dry, then glued the next frame, dry fitted again and so forth. Then I glued all the frames to the "sheer" at the same time. That worked well and the result is what you see. Regards, David
  5. Thanks, Robert. Hope you find it interesting. The frames on this boat are made up from subassemblies. Here's frame #3 (from the bow). Regards, David
  6. Back from my one month trip to Asia and ready to ease back into ship modeling. This kit is part of the Dumas Chris-Craft series. Unlike most Dumas boats, this one has a planked hull. What's in the box: Pictures of the box cover with a close-up showing the model. Lots of wood, unsorted. Some good-looking mahogany strips and some very fragile laser-cut mahogany. Manual and lots of charts and drawings. This one should be a challenge -- the manual says it's a very difficult kit. The part I want to get right is the finish on the hull. I'm going to spend some time with the manual before I start on this. Regards, David
  7. Beautiful work. Your rope coils are exquisite, and also your line seizings. Wonderful craftsmanship on the rigging. Regards, David
  8. Thanks to Chris, Steve and Lou. And Chris, if you worked as fast as me, your models wouldn't look at beautiful as they do. I am selective in my picture taking to not expose my more awful "goofs". Regards, David
  9. TITANIC IS FINALLY FINISHED! I have posted completion pictures in the Gallery of completed kit ships, but I couldn't resist this one that shows the "place of honor" for this model in my office. Ensures that I will look at it multiple times each day. 😁 A few final construction notes. Some of these you'll see better in the Gallery pictures: The kit instructions use a plain wood dowel painted brown for the masts. Couldn't stand that idea so I found a walnut dowel of the same size and used that. I bought a finished walnut base. The kit includes a MDF base, but I've never figured out how to make one of those look like wood, and I didn't want a black base under this one. You'll see a yellow stripe down the side between the white and black parts of the structure. This is in the box picture, but not in the instructions. I did it by using the planking strips, which were perfectly sized, and pre-painting them. Even conserving the supplied rigging thread, I ran out after rigging the Marconi antenna and didn't have enough for the leads down to the ship, so I used some spare from another kit. I wanted to get this done this week as we are headed off for 5-6 weeks for a long Asia trip. When back and time adjusted, I'm going to do the Dumas Chris Craft Commuter next. Should be a different challenge to get the finish right. Thanks to all who have followed this build -- for your encouragement and help. Regards, David
  10. Popeye: OK, got it. I gave you measurements for two boats. The larger one is 2960, and the smaller one is 2961 (they are called "dingy" and "cutter" respectively in the English instructions. These part numbers are unique to the Titanic kit. If you call Ages of Sail, ask for James. He's really good, and sometimes they keep an open kit around to cannibalize for missing parts. You might be able to persuade him to sell you a "sprue" from that vs. ordering from Amati. Two "sprues" come with the kit. Regards, David
  11. Popeye: Thanks for the comments. You asked "Do the sprues have part numbers?" What's a sprue? Thanks, David
  12. Finished the lifeboats on the starboard side. I'm pushing to finish the boat, because I go away at the end of this week for 5 weeks and want to have it done before I go. Regards, David
  13. Before going into mass production on the lifeboat davits, I wanted to make sure I understood how it all comes together, so I did two davits and one lifeboat and mounted them. Result below. The stern lifeboats (like this one) hang partly out from the deck. The bow lifeboats mount flush to the edge of the deck. Regards, David
  14. Here's one of the lifeboat davits not yet painted and dry-fitted on the deck. This is a five piece brass assembly with a lot of bending, but it's not too difficult. I think these will add some real detail. Also a pic of the funnel stays, which are now finished. Next steps are to finish all the davits and paint them, then add eyebolts to the lifeboats, and then mount and rig them. Regards, David
  15. Popeye: I wasn't thinking about what Ages of Sail normally shows -- if the Titanic lifeboats work for you, my thought was that you'd have Ages of Sail order 1 or 2 plastic sets of the Titanic ones like you saw in my picture. They are Amati's US distributor, so they might be able to do that. Each "set" comes with 7 of the 38mm lifeboats, and two smaller ones that are 33mm, plus a tenth item that is Titanic-specific. Hope this helps. Regards, David
  16. Popeye: The lifeboats are 38mm long. If that fits, I would expect that Ages of Sail could order some from Amati for you. Regards, David
  17. I've installed the stanchions on the upper decks -- a couple of pics here. A sequence issue: I had to install two small lifeboats now (see pics), because the funnel stays would be in the way if I did those first, But then I have to do the stays next, because the davits for the rest of the lifeboats would make deck attachment really difficult. Then I'll install the lifeboats. Speaking of the lifeboats -- I think way back in this log someone commented that they thought the use of plastic boats was inappropriate for a kit of this quality -- but as I have painted them I've found that they look nicer than some metal boats I've painted, and hold very fine detail as you can see. Regards, David
  18. Bow detail finished. It's New Year's Eve here, but Happy New Year to all and especially to our Australia/New Zealand friends who are already into 2019. Regards, David
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