Jump to content

drobinson02199

NRG Member
  • Posts

    914
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by drobinson02199

  1. The yard lifts are now up, so from here on to the final stage of rigging, then mounting & done. Regards, David
  2. Chris: Thanks very much. Yes, I do have the next build planned. I'm going to do the Amati Titanic, which I have on the shelf waiting. Regards, David
  3. All the stays are now up. Some run close to the mast and shrouds so you have to look for them. Regards, David
  4. Foremast crow's foot rigging is up. As I was snipping the last loose piece of crow's foot, I managed to commit the ultimate rigging sin and snip the crow's foot too. 😫 All of the "feet" are one long continuous line. So I spliced the last lead and saved it. You can see the splice if you zoom in on the second picture and look at the leftmost "foot". But it's hard to see with the naked eye, so all's well that ends well. Regards, David
  5. All shrouds are now up. 😂 I think I've been seeing ratlines in my sleep. Now on to other rigging, in between some business trips coming up this week and next. Regards, David
  6. I haven't posted in a while, because I have been traveling and also busy with some business. But this week I was able to do the mizzen lower shrouds and finish off the lower shrouds, futtock shrouds and ratlines, so here's a picture of that. Regards, David
  7. Continuing to work on shrouds. When I did the foremast shrouds, I followed the approach noted in the drawings (see below), which is certainly structurally sound and is probably how shrouds were "hung" off the mast on the real ship. The issue I had was twofold: alignment of the deadeyes when fixing the second deadeye in the loop, and more important, creating the proper alignment and spacing at the top. I really had to struggle to get separation and not have the shrouds cross approaching the top of the lower foremast, and the alignment I had on the foremast was marginally OK, but not what I really wanted. So for the main mast I went back to the approach I used on the Revenge, which is to rig the shrouds one at a time, fixing the alignment and tensioning at the top with CA gel. I'm much happier with the results. See below, including two pics with white paper behind the shrouds so the alignment up to the mast is easier to see. Regards, David
  8. It's been a bit since my last post, partly because I was away last week, but also because I have hit the shrouds and ratlines -- and you all know what that's like. Never ends. Here's my first stage of those -- the lower foremast shrouds and futtock shrouds. Regards, David
  9. All the yards are now up. I also mounted the driver boom and driver gaff, even though they don't have rigging support, because I think it would be much more difficult with the shrouds up. A kit note: not enough parrell beads supplied. Fortunately, I had some left over from the Revenge. Now on to shrouds -- which I'll be at for a while. Regards, David
  10. I have finished the 3 main mast yards and mounted them on the main mast, then stepped the mast to the boat. Picture below. When I started this kit, I wondered if the upgrade kit would prove worth it (other than the lifeboat kit it contains). But there are three brass fittings in it that have proven to be really valuable: The deadeye fittings are upgraded and are more secure. The footrope stanchions replace having to fabricate them out of thin wire, and are better looking than anything I could have created myself in the non-upgraded kit The fittings for the stunsail booms again avoid having to fabricate two fittings per yard end (4 per yard) out of separate parts. Regards, David
  11. I guess maybe 2-3 hours per day when I don't have a lot of my professional work to get to. I spent more time yesterday on the main yard -- maybe 4 hours in all. Each part is an engineering challenge for me. I look at the drawings and think about how I'll build it, and part of that is the "what is the most efficient way?" Here's the catch: if you zoom way in on my woodworking, you'll see that it doesn't stand up to some of the really outstanding detail work I've seen here -- such as by Zappto, Vossy and AntonyUK. I think it's fine, and looks good on the model for normal viewing -- but I just don't have the patience that I've seen some others apply -- and their results show it. Regards, David
  12. First yard done and mounted -- lower main yard. I hadn't run into stunsail booms before, but really like the interest they add to the yards. I know that some modelers pin the yards to the mast, but I'm always concerned that I will "prang" them during rigging with a random elbow or hand strike (and have done so many times), so I installed a pin on the back of the mast and "hung" the yard to that, which supports it but still allows for play in the yard. This one is lashed to the mast, but the next one above it will be installed with parrel beads and ribs. One yard down -- 9 more to go. Regards, David
  13. Finished the bowsprit and went ahead and did the bowsprit yards and mounted them. The only rigging on the bowsprit so far is the yard lifts. I thought the bowsprit was the most complicated block/deadeye assembly I have encountered so far in modeling. I also included a shot of the full foremast, which I completed since my last post. Regards, David
  14. Thanks, Martin. I think I go fast and then slow, depending on what else is going on. I'm working on the bowsprit now, and there are a LOT of blocks to tie on. I think I'll do the bowsprit yards and attach them, and then shoot out another picture. Regards, David
  15. Antony: I am in astonished admiration at the beautiful quality and precision you have achieved in a scratch build. This is a masterpiece. Regards, David
  16. Finished the lower fore mast. It's just dry-fitted in the picture. Lots of detail and blocks to attach. I really like this kit, but one thing I don't much like is the instruction to dye natural thread black when a small diameter thread is needed. The reason given in the manual is that black thread gets brittle when glued, but there was plenty of it in the Revenge kit, which is a later Amati Victory series kit. So I'm using the leftover thread from that kit when I need thin black. Regards, David
×
×
  • Create New...