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Everything posted by drobinson02199
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Fore topgallant yard up. So now on to the mizzen yards, which are simpler to build than the fore and main yards. Regards, David
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Allan: You asked why many of my blocks are rigged upside down. Actually, I think it's all of them. I'm sure you are right, and that I'm doing it upside down. When I started building ships, it seemed to me that rigging the sheaves (the holes) at the loop end vs the tie end would lead to more aligned rigging and less fouling. So I've always done it that way. Regards, David
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The fore yard is built and rigged onto the ship. Going on a trip for a couple of weeks so won't be posting again until latter part of June. Regards, David
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Main topgallant yard built and mounted. I included a pic of the rigging. Again, as with the topyard, I have rigged a strop to hold the yard down, and I'll cut that if something comes along later that does that. Regards, David
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Finished the main topsail yard and mounted it. Some things to comment on with accompanying pictures: The parrel beads and ribs look nice. I've typically had trouble mounting yards with parrel beads -- holding everything in place (even with the ends knotted to make a tight assembly. This time I dry-mounted the yard with painters tape, which made it relatively easy to rig the beads. Didn't have to resort to my default on earlier boats of gluing them to the mast and then rigging them. Other pics show the "tye" rigging including long block and tackle at the end. In order to get the tyes tensioned correctly, I needed to tie the yard down, and there is a thin loop (red arrow) doing that. If something comes up in the later rigging that holds the yard down, I'll snip that loop. There is something called a "truck" that lashes the rigging to one of the backstays. It's supposed to be a cast item, but looked high and low and nada in the parts box. So I improvised with some scrap walnut dowel as shown in the picture. In general, I've been pretty disappointed in the cast items in this kit -- particularly the yard rings, which I've ditched for my own using wire. It took me about 5 days to build and mount this second yard, so allowing for an upcoming vacation it may be sometime in August before I have them all done -- maybe later. I'll keep posting as I go. Regards, David
- 218 replies
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Finished and added blocks to the main yard. Because I need my workbench to make the yards, I have moved the ship across the room. I also need somewhere to store the yards as I build them -- so I will mount them on the masts as I go along. Pic of the first mounted yard is shown, along with some rigging detail. The light is not very good in the part of the workroom where the ship now is, so I bought a LED headset light (shown). Wow, what a godsend. Puts a ton of light just where you are looking. Only $30 at Amazon. Wish I'd had it sooner. Regards, David
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Built my first yard -- the lower main yard -- and thought I'd offer a few comments: 1) The plans show banding on the yards, but there is no indication there or in the manual what they are made of, so I used black thread. 2) For the life of me, I can't figure out the mast rings supplied with the kit. The inner diameters seem wrong, and the counts seem wrong. So I have abandoned them and made my own for the stunsail booms out of wire. It's all painted black at the end so it looks fine. The finished yard (rigging blocks not yet installed) is shown below as well. Regards, David
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Finished the standing rigging on the jib. Now all of the standing rigging is done. I haven't built any of the yards yet, so now it's on to shaping and sanding. Regards, David
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Thanks, Allan. Yes, I did vary the circumference according to the manual specs.
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A couple of "not in the plans" mods: When I made the main topgallant mast, I messed up and created an area of the mast that was too narrow, and too weak. As I got into rigging the backstays, I saw that it might not hold the tension. So I added a small splint, which is virtually invisible at normal viewing distance, and that has strengthened the mast back to where it can handle rigging tension. I also added a backstay that isn't in the plans, running left to right from the top of the main mast down to the mizzen. The backstays that are in the plans run at too steep an angle to pull the topgallant mast back to straight, which is what was needed. Regards, David
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Here is most of the forestay rigging done. Last picture shows some lines I've temporarily rigged through the boomkins and up to the jib, to try to keep me from pranging anything else. Regards, David
- 218 replies
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Well, it was bound to happen to me sooner or later -- a bad prang. In this case, I was wearing a sweater while working around the bowsprit from the front. The tip of the bowsprit caught on my sweater without me knowing it, I moved, and SNAP. I thought it would need a really stiff nail for repair, so I used a picture hanging nail, which is shown below. I THOUGHT I had it completely aligned when I dry-fitted the repair, but at the end of gluing it somehow had developed a slight downward cant -- which I'm going to have to live with since I'm not about to try to take it apart -- I really glued it on solidly. I can think of worse disasters -- like dropping the whole model -- and all in all, this repaired fairly well given the total snapoff. It took the jackstaff with it, and I'll probably add that back at the end of the build. But there is that slight downward angle . . . Oh well. Regards, David UPDATE: I was able to bend the sprit up some, and to a point where I can use the stays to finish the realignment. Final picture shows what it will look like when the stays are installed. I'm only putting a slight upward pressure on with my hand. WHEW!
- 218 replies
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I've begun work on the forestays. Mizzen stays done; first main mast forestay installed. Closeup picture below of the heart blocks and lashings used to secure the main forestay. Regards, David
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Bowsprit now permanently mounted and gammoning completed. The gammoning on this model is more than decorative -- it performs the same function as it would have done on the real ship: locking down the bowsprit tight. Gammoning was tricky to thread behind the beak struts. Regards, David
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Thanks, Mort. I need to find your build log and will do so. Regards, David
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Finished the foremast topmast shrouds and ratlines, and THAT'S IT for ratlines on this model!😃 I looked back to when I started the shrouds, and removing the 6 weeks I was away on vacation, I was dong shrouds and ratlines for 4 1/2 months. That's as long as some other models I've built took overall. Not sure what it is about this model that makes things go so slow -- maybe the size? Regards, David
- 218 replies
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- 218 replies
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Finished the shrouds on the main topmast and topgallant mast. And yes, for the sharp-eyed, the shroud attachments for the futtocks are not level with each other. That's just a goof. I find attaching those to the shrouds to be devilish, so my latest approach is to put glue on the bar and spray the shrouds with quick-set, then press the bar against the shrouds. Got them aligned on the mizzen, but missed here. I'm not worried about it because the ship on display will be viewed from one side (the one showing below), and the other futtock attachment won't be that noticeable. Regards, David
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- 218 replies
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The topgallant shrouds run down through the topmast crosstrees and become the topmast futtock shrouds in one continuous run. The instructions aren't terribly clear about this. This is still the mizzen. Regards, David
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