Heronguy

Frame 38 and 39 proved to be more time-consuming than expected. Frame 38 is made of two segments and then has to be tapered to fit the counter.
 

 
Still dry-fitted I have to squeeze some scrapwood into the jig to make it stay in place. Frame 39 is just a single peace that has to be tapered. Frame 40 is still missing.
 

 
Stay tuned and save..
 
Andreas
 

The keelson is build up from 4 segments. The slots have to be cleaned and checked first before installation, so that the frames will fit into them later.
 

 
Test-fit on the plan..
 

 
... and on the frames. Still nothing is glued yet.
 

 
I will make some final adjustments next weekend. Stay tuned and save.
 
Andreas

I've finished making holes in the hull for the time being, so I masked off the deck and gave the bulwarks a coat of admiralty paints matt white.  Then I made up and mounted the double blocks in the bulwarks using the smaller sheaves provided in the kit and the 0.5mm wire also provided. The holes were hand drilled very carefully with a 0.6mm pin-vice. They're not perfect, but I was worried I'd destroy the parts using a power drill.
 
The blocks were assembled and a drop of superglue applied at each end to secure the pin in place. The blocks were glued in place with carpenter's glue. They all slope so that the fore end is higher and the aft end lower.
 
Once mounted I masked the sheaves themselves, and painted the bulwarks again.
 

 

 

 
Having done this, I marked the waterline, masked it, and painted the hull above the waterline with Admiralty paints dull black. I started with a 50% water mix to act effectively as a mist coat, and then use a 80% paint / 20% water mix for a few coats after that. 
 

 
Then it was time to start opening up the holes for the surrounds, which were gently sanded to round them off, and then glued in place once the holes were opened up to match the insert. So far I've just done the rosettes on the port side for the mooring ropes. These photos are seriously close in, and a bit brutal and show that I have plenty of room to improve on this task! Hopefully I can clean these out a bit. I'm very pleased with the overall effect, though.
 

 

 
Thanks as always for the likes, comments and encouragement.
 
Rob
 

Okay - a milestone to report 
 
I've finished planking the deck. I also took the opportunity to get a photo with one of my other models in shot as a comparison. HM Cutter Sherborne (a Caldercraft kit).
 

 

 

 
The paper cover is to stop the coal getting lots of dust on it from the build.
 
I believe the next step is to start making the holes in the side of the hull for the scuppers and fairleads, etc...
 
Happy building, and thanks to all who take an interest in the journey.
 
Rob

Hi all,
 
A little update to show progress. I've finished second-planking the port side, (and I'm a good way down the starboard side, too). There were a few moments of doubt along the way, but I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Here are a few pictures showing the really lovely lines that these working vessels had...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I'm not bothered about the marking from the superglue, because it's all going to be covered up. But the superglue did make the whole job MUCH quicker. I went from 4 1/2 months on Ethalion, to under a month on Stefano from first plank, to this point.
 
Looking back I notice now that I hadn't sat the model on the stand properly, but thankfully nothing amiss happened. The stand is surprisingly sturdy, and a very useful part of the kit. Now... back to planking! I'm hoping to have the port side complete in the next couple of days.
 
Happy building
 
Rob

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

That's really helpful. Thank you. And I agree about the tedium... a good audio book goes a long way for me

Hi Rob,
 
I didn't use side cutters.  I used a scalpel or x-acto blade to free up the 1st row from the panel. Subsequent rows just need the end tags cut then bend the whole row back and forth a couple of time and its free.  I did bend a few individual plates.  They straighten out just fine as long and the bend is not too sharp.  When it came to trimming plates (near the end of the coppering process) I cut them with snips that I bought for the purpose.  I'd get a slight curl but it was easy to flatten.
 
Biggest challenge I had (other than tedium) was getting the plates to adhere to the hull.  Ended up using thin CA glue.
 

 
Weather is getting better here so  may get back to the shipyard soon.  
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

The coppering is going to be a long term project.  I expect to get perhaps 10-20  plates per hour.  I am using CA glue despite my general dislike of the substance.  
 

This is a pretty big hull.  Makes me glad the Winchelsea won't be coppered!!

Thanks Chris
 
I mentioned above that the copper plates provided had fairly significant marking across each of the sheets. I was reasonably confident it would come off, but didn't want to leave it until I came to the point of wanting to install them just in case I was wrong.
 
Well, here are the results of my test... 
 
1. The whole sheet before testing... (as it came in the box)
 

 
I cut out one tile to experiment on from the centre of the worst marking. Here's a close-up...
 

 
2. Test one: Acetone (nail-varnish remover)
 
The first attempt to remove the marks was with acetone. Despite bathing the tile in the acetone (in a sealed container for about five minutes) and then scrubbing it with a toothbrush, this seemed to have absolutely no effect.
 
The tile ended up looking precisely as it started, when compared to the sheet it had come from.
 
3. Test two: neat Lemon juice
 
The second attempt was using neat lemon juice... and scrubbing gently with a toothbrush. (The detail on the etching is so fine, it shreds tissue paper, and I was concerned I'd damage the tiles)
 
This method provided almost instant results. Within 20 seconds the tile was completely shiny, as I would hope - all marking entirely gone. I was conscious that the active ingredient is citric acid, so I rinsed the tile afterwards in plenty of water to remove the acid.
 
Here's the tile on it's own...
 

 
And in situ to compare to the rest of the sheet...
 

 
And...
 

 
I'm much more confident it's all going to be fine now, so I can pack it all away and concentrate on Ethalion
 
Take care, and a very happy Christmas to you all!
 
Rob

 
Update: Zoran from MarisStella has helpfully pointed out the putting the sheet into Coca Cola for a few seconds, and then rinsing with clean water will clean the copper well, too. Thanks Zoran

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

This schooner has been languishing on the shelf for a few months awaiting the motivation to work on the rigging.  When the @xken's Ratliner tool was released I decided to give it a try.  My use of the Ratliner is documented in this forum.  The main mast shrouds were made that way.
 
Once the shroud set is placed on the model it is still necessary to reeve lanyards through the deadeyes.  This has in the past been a step I found straightforward in theory and frustrating in practice.  I found a small enhancement to the process that helped me a alot!
 
As recommended by others on MSW I use a piece of bent brass wire to temporarily connect the upper and lower deadeyes at the desired spacing.
 

 
 I've bee frustrated by the tendency of the wire to slip out before the lanyard is threaded.  Solution turned up in my daughter's earring box.
 

 
On a cheap pair of ear studs there were these small rubber/plastic keepers.  Easy on, easy off, but no slip!

 
With the pair on it was easy to wrap the bottom end of the shroud around the deadeye and clamp it to the shroud above and then proceed to reeve the lanyard.  Once the 1st wrap is made the keepers are removed so they don't interfere with the threading.  Works for me.
 
The foremast shrouds and ratlines were done in the usual way - shrouds 1st then tied the ratlines.  The mainmast shrouds were done with the Ratliner.  
 

 
Don't worry about the forestay - I'll tighten it!
 
I'm looking forward to more rigging - gotta conquer it sometime so why not now?
 
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

Treat sanding as a chance for meditation.  Be the wood.  Feel the the grit ....
 
OK - at least your almost there!

I've done 2 copies of the bulkheads and BF (plywood was too thick >1/4").  Definitely improved the job I did 2nd time.  Yours already were well cutout so you'll just have to chalk it up to "experience". 😀

This probably belongs in the tool category, but to cut that Lauan plywood and for many other tasks, a jeweler's fret saw is indispensable. They're like a super fine toothed coping saw, but the blades don't rotate, so you're limited by throat depth. They're used with a simple block of wood sticking off the bench called a "bird's mouth" to support the workpiece. The blades are cheap and come in many varieties, even spiral toothed. They'll cut metal too, brass, even mild steel. The pictures show the variety and huge difference in price that you can get. Anywhere from $10 to a hundred plus for the "Knew" tools line of super rigid precision milled aluminum stuff. The first picture shows their unique powered design. ($2k+!) It's advantage over the usual scroll saws is that it moves straight up and down and with a much longer, slower stroke. Great for mother of pearl artisans, jewelers, and model makers. In general, when working with Lauan aka Philippine mahogany plywood, score the face veneer with a sharp knife, and then saw to the outside of your score line. It's a good strong material, but really splintery. It's not as common as it used to be. I believe the Shorea species are now endangered.
 
 
 
 

Thanks to everyone for the tips.
 
What worked pretty well for me was:
 
Drill the set of closely spaced holes using the dremel with drill press accessory:

 
Finish the cuts with the x-acto knife (no rolling cutter to try yet) 

 
Use the drum sander attachment n the dremel to get closer fit

 
and finish sanding by hand.
 
I tried to use the jeweller's saw again but couldn't get good clamping on my desk and found it quicker to do the drilling technique.
 
Thanks again,
Doug

The kit instructions simply suggest attaching a small eye pin with the twisted wire holding the deadeye. The stem of the eye pin is inserted into a drilled hole in the rail and affixed with glue.  Once again I had to use CA to bond the wire to the wood. (The chainplates mounted on the hull are not connected to the deadeye - just simulating the practice on the actual ship) I’ve “tested” each one with a good tug to see if they may hold when under tension from shrouds and don’t expect too many challenges there!  A long time from now at the current rate!!! 

The coppering is going to be a long term project.  I expect to get perhaps 10-20  plates per hour.  I am using CA glue despite my general dislike of the substance.  
 

This is a pretty big hull.  Makes me glad the Winchelsea won't be coppered!!

Current task is to install the chainplates.  On this kit the chainplates are simulated by PE strips attached to the exterior hull but not all the way through the rails.  Eyebolts will be inserted on the rails to complete the appearance of chainplates.
 
Copying the position of the chainplates from the plans made it straightforward to position the PE strips.  


 
The foremast chainplates
 

 
 

The bulwark went on without much trouble.  The holding jigs  worked well enough.  If I were to repeat this I would have used a harderer wood for the jigs since the roasted poplar I had lying around split under minor pressure and had to be glued back together a couple of times.  When it came to clamping near the bow and stern (where the rails curve) I cut the jigs so that they were not as long and could follow the curve better.
 

The next challenge is mounting the topgallant bulwark onto the toprail.  The bulwark is a 1.5X5mm strip that is glued on its narrow edge to the toprail.  Getting if to sit properly for glueing seems a bit difficult.
 
1st thought was just to clamp it with some shims.



 
That looked like it would work but was a bit fussy to hold, position , and clamp without things slipping out of place.  Refinement of the method was to mill a one-piece holder.
 

The groove will hold the bulwark strip and th4e channel above it will position it on the top rail.


 
I cut it into 4 pieces to space out along a section of the bulwark.



The small clamps create the downward pressure on the bulwark while the glue sets.

Hopefully tomorrow morning will validate this effort!
 
 
 

So, the work continues... Once the hull was done I switched my attention to making the remaining yards and the mast. This is a small model, so there is only a handful of spars: boom, gaff, bowsprit, spreadsail yard, topsail yard, mast and topmast. I have already made the bowsprit earlier, so only 6 spars were left to do. The workflow I follow for making them is always the same:
 
1. I narrow down the part (by sanding the part so It has square cross section everywhere):

 

 

 
2. Then I use a mini-plane and cut off the edges of the part to make it more or less hexagonal:
 

 

 
And after that I wrap it into a small sheet of 180 grip sandpaper and rotate it with my left hand while holding the sandpaper with the right hand. In the end I get something like this:
 

 
The mast is something different. Instead of making a square round, I make a circle square by removing material. I first try to identify the order (or stages) in which material needs to be removed and then start cutting, the first cuts are always perpendicular to the mast and they establish the depth of the rest of the cuts:

 
In the end after the first stage, the mast looked like this:
 

 
Once the mast was complete I attached all the stays and the shrouds to the mast top:
 

 

 
 
And then established the angles for the chainplates using the actual shrouds (I usually take a lot of time at this stage, because I love perfect symmetry :):
 

 

 

 

 
Once this was done, all the tedious work was over! Now the fun part could begin. I could finally start some of the standing rigging. Bobstay:
 

 

 
And the bowsprit shrouds... This is what it looks like right now:
 

 

 

 
Next I'm going to continue rigging all the spars (I try to install as much rigging with them off the ship as possible)...