flying_dutchman2

The instructions say it gets painted, no brick. Glued the 4 small windows in the thatch areas (rietvelden). Laid the skeleton on the floor at an angle and glued and nailed the 8 thatch roofs on the skeleton. Put Titebond glue on both sides that come in contact with the frames. Put it on the frame and make sure that it is straight. Use clamps on one side and pre-drill pilot holes every 5cm in the thatch layer. Use small, long ribbed nails to attach it to the frame This is important. Start driving the nails from top to bottom. Left, right, left, right and so on. I made the mistake by doing one side first and then the other and the wood split in 2 places. Remedied that by pushing a square dowel under the crack and pasting it together. The dowel is nailed to the wall. Cracks I will cover with the tile glue. Let it dry overnight and then I will sand whatever needs it, fill cracks and see what needs to be fixed or added. Then prime the foundation walls and upper walls with 2 layers and also do the bottom plate (bodem plaat). Practice layering the tile glue on a piece of wood and imitate the thatch layer. Per instructions, the open areas between the bottom of the thatch layer and the top of the walls needs to be as is for aeration. I may glue or nail mosquito netting. I don't want any squatters occupying the mill. Working in this scale (1:15) sure is different compared to (1:48). Easier to cover up mistakes and no need to redo it. Marcus

Started glueing in the 2 windows and 2 doors. Used the paste as well to cover some small openings. Marcus

Glued and nailed the foundation wall and the pieces that go above that wall to the frame. I create a paste of sawdust and Titebond III wood glue and fill in the gaps between the two walls and where the sides come together. Once dry it is very hard, waterproof, and resists cracking and shrinking. I have made this paste for many outdoor projects. Once dry, I will dry fit the doors and windows. Remove them and paint a primer on the walls. Once done I will glue and nail the under layer for the fake thatch roof. I read on another site that a person uses an epoxy resin to water proof the outside. I have this from another model I made years ago and may use it. Marcus

Thanks. The above website has plans, instructions on how to build, lots of pictures, and the type, amount and measurements of all the wood they use. I am going to download everything for my second windmill built Marcus

There is a Dutch windmillwright by the name Anton Sipman and wrote 2 Dutch books on windmills. Molenbouw: Het Staande Werk Van De Bovenkruiers 2002 (no English translation) and Molen Wielen (Mill wheels) which is out of print. I am surprised that there aren't more books about windmills, the technical side of it. The workings of them, especially with the amount and types the Netherlands has. Or I am not looking in the correct place. I am going to put some type of lattice within the mill under the thatch area similar to the picture 'cog' uploaded, but less. Marcus

Sanded the skeleton. First drew a line down the middle lengthwise on the outside of the strut, then sanding straight. Took a sheet of 50 grain sandpaper, wrapped it around a piece of wood and then sand up and down. Used the belt sander for the top area which is narrow. Noticed that the space in between the struts are not all equal as some struts are slightly warped. I can use filler or redo some of the pieces and make them wider. Marcus

Thanks Backer. It is coming along. Most of the pieces have been cut out and sanded. It is just a matter of following the instructions with putting it all together. Marcus

Glued and screwed (2" long) to the bottom and top plate. Also glued the cap floor and the side together. I got the straightest 3/4" x 4' x 4' marine plywood but once sawn and sanded, three pieces still warped a bit and two pieces cracked when I put the screw in and all holes were pre-drilled. So I filled everything with the Tightbond glue. I was surprised that when it was all put together and put it on the garage floor it was level. Next I need to draw a line down the middle lengthwise for all the struts and file them in an angle so sides will fit. Marcus

Sanded all the upright struts. The picture is the measuring of the top. It needs to be level before I start building it up. I took all struts of and cut some of the edges off with the scrollsaw. Marcus

Cut out all the parts that are needed to get a good start building the mill. Tomorrow I need to do some sanding before I glue and screw the large pieces together. The picture with all the smaller pieces are for the cap. I did do a dry run as the picture shows. The two long pieces are screwed into the bottom plate. Marcus

Started to cut out the parts outside with a jig saw. This is for the 1/2" & 3/4" marine plywood. Anything thinner will be with the scrollsaw. Marcus

Today couldn't do anything outside because it snowed, yup, 2 inches. All my crocus flowers were covered. Then it got to be 45F and it all melted in less than a hour. So I took the 1/2" and 1/4" maritime plywood in the basement shop and glued the templates on them. The 3/4" marine plywood is 4' x 4' which is too big to carry around and will be used the next few days when it gets warmer. Other templates were glued on 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm walnut and oak. The 1/2" - 2' by 4' regular plywood is to be used to make a large template for the vanes (wieken). I bought extra as that project needs to be accurate. Marcus

Kees, The rudder looks great, love the details as well. Marcus

I know the website of penterbak. That is a cool video of windmills. Looks like a drone was used to get the images at different heights. Thank you andante. Marcus

Went to several big box stores to get supplies. Plywood and dowels in various thicknesses and sizes, copper tubing, tile glue and exterior glue, box of wood screws and at the same time got wood for the display case for the Utrecht. Monday I'll start the main structure and go from there. Marcus

I remember that one. I still have the catalog it is advertised in. Always wanted to get that. Alder is a good species of wood to make it with. Laid out the main pieces of wood on the drawing for the cap (walnut, redwood, poplar, maple & cherry) . For 'cog', that would be number 22 through 28. So many parts go in to the cap. Marcus

Wheel is completed. Needs to be primed and painted. The disk in the middle willi cadmium dark red, the spokes green, the ends which are the handles will be white. The steps have been glued together. Them primed and painted black. Marcus

Cut out all the pieces in the above picture and found some more wood (ash, redwood and oak) for more pieces. Put together the wheel which is made from plywood for the ring, walnut for the spokes and maple for some smaller parts. This will all be primed and painted. Marcus

Thank you Backer. Marcus

This mill is going to be made of lots of different wood. This coming weekend I am purchasing the marine plywood. regular plywood, square and round dowels, copper & aluminum tubing, other metal items, outdoor glue, tile glue for the thatch. I have glued some of the templates on the various pieces of wood. For the kruipalen (English ?) which are thick wooden pieces I am using maple pen blank pieces. Person at the woodworkers club does pen turning and he gave me box full of them. They are 1" x 1" x 6". Just right. Marcus

I am waiting for a dry day so I can start sanding her. It has been drizzling on and off. So instead of the boat I've been working on the mill Marcus

Cool, and I love the basket, nicely detailed. Marcus

Since I am not going to get the maritime plywood this weekend (Easter weekend) I made the hooks and eyelets so shutters can go on the window frames. I used 1 mm thick brass wire. The shutter design look so Dutch. The doors have little knobs on them. Also been going through my stash of hardwood picking out pieces for the various parts of the cap. So many odd sizes needed. The cap has about 20 pieces total Marcus

Looks good. Marcus

# Carl, thanks for the suggestion. # Jan, thank you for the elaborate explanation. That picture in the Rijks is also in the book. I will ask the questions as you are answering them as I built. The plans itself is an interpretation of a contract in Witsen's book and Ab mentions the pages as well. Ab has translated this book in English and it is more than $100.00. So I have to save some money and need to get this. Marcus