Keith Black

It's a lot better than "good", it's a fantastic addition. What kinda pain in the backside would it be to attempt adding icicles hanging off the wheel?

Thank you for joining up, Micha.

https://www.shawandtenney.com/how-size-your-oars

I don't think the ventilators look ratty at all. Speaking of ventilators, did you ever notice that at distance they kinda look like earbuds?

Dan, if I can make some of the goofy stuff I've made at 1:120, I'm quite certain you can make acceptable looking 1:128 oars. In fact, look at the oars Eberhard made in his 1:160 build log, page 25, post #733.

Nice wheel, Glen. I hope you can use it on the Jenny.

I've seen folks carve the shaft/handle separate from the blade and then join the two.

I'd use the keel as is, the other two i might scab and glue with PVA thin pieces to either side of each. Sandpaper will easily remove any edge irregularities.

Micha, being an NRG member means you're providing financial support for MSW. You've only been a member of MSW for a short period of time but by the number of your post thus far you obviously find benefit in being a MSW member. For myself being a member since 2016 MSW is a major part of my life. I consider 99.99% of the MSW membership my 'family'. MSW is way too important to me, I'm happy to support MSW by being an NRG member. Having access to the MSW database is invaluable, I dare say that if you have a question about ship modeling the answer can be found in the MSW database. The better question is, why would one not want to support MSW by becoming an NRG member.

Mark, it's probably the cost of display maintenance. There doesn't seem to be as much money being donated to museums these days and reduced attendance. Folks don't feel they need to go to the museum because Mr Google is right there waiting to guide them through whatever interest was put in the search box.

John, welcome to MSW. I like clocks as well and keep a few singing along merrily. Glad to have you aboard.

And that's why I wasn't impressed. Had it been totality here in out little patch of heaven I may have felt differently.

Great story, Bob. Glen, great photos but I think the eclipse was way over hyped. Maggie and I sat on the front steps with our I can't see a bloody thing glasses and observed 98.11% totality in our area. I'm much more impressed by comets.

Micha, I would use PVA on the above and CA for the planking.

I was trying to save Micha from diving down the rabbit hole at this point but it's something he'll encounter soon enough. At 77 I'm a pretty old school kinda guy but I used poly in antique furniture restoration long before I could spell model ship. The biggest plus for me is the protection poly provides, I don't get that sense of protection using shellac. It comes down to personal preference from product usage.

For what application? Number one I'd toss in the bin, number two I've never used and have no experience, so it's three (Google Titebond II and III and see what the internet reports about the differences) or four, coming back again to the question, what application?

Micha, let me clarify a bit here. If you use CA to glue a eye or twisted wire stropped block into the deck, mast, or yard, you'll break something trying to pull it out once dry. If you CA glue a wood edge (pilot house base as an example) to a wood deck, you could pop off the pilot house with a rap to the side or by placing an Xacto chisel blade tip at the edge of the pilot house base and get it to release with a gentle rap. Using PVA wood to wood it's pert near impossible to make it let go without using copious amounts of isopropyl alcohol. You use Acetone to release objects glued with CA. I haven't had any luck gluing painted surfaces no matter what type of glue used unless the painted surfaces have been sealed with polyurethane. I don't have any trouble using CA to glue poly sealed painted surfaces. I don't know if PVA would work as I've never tried but my wee brain thinks it wouldn't. As with all methods suggested by us, you need to experiment/test on scrap pieces using our suggestions and see what works best for YOU.

Regarding the broken pieces....this is where I would NOT use CA. In this case I would use a yellow PVA. Once the glue is added and the pieces fitted together, wrap the whole with Saran Wrap, then add supports on either side and clamp. If you don't use the Saran Wrap you WILL permanently glue the supports to the broken pieces once the glue dries.

I don't like Gorilla because it foams, that just disturbs the heck out of my Inner Tao.

Simon, the one positive thing about working in the garden is the amount of natural light is so much better to see by, By 4 legged friends I assume cats? If it is cats they are such little dunderheads when it comes to wanting to be a part of whatever is going on. Not an easy task cutting those by hand, hats off to ya.

There is no problem with fossilized ivory both walrus and mammoth tusk. Hippo and warthog ivory is also legal to own in the USA at this time. The Humane Society has given notice to sue the US Fish and Wildlife Service to protect Hippos under the Endangered Species Act, see the below. https://www.humanesociety.org/news/legal-action-launched-protect-hippos-under-us-endangered-species-act

The trade in elephant ivory is one of things that at some point mankind will have to answer for. The elephant ivory trade is one of the saddest chapters of our species. Having said the above, the trade in walrus ivory is another matter. Fossil walrus ivory is fairly plentiful (I owned a fossilized walrus tusk once upon a time) and is legal to buy and sell. My wife being Alaska native allows us to posses walrus ivory obtained after the 12-21-1972 law. We have several pieces both pre and post Marine Mammal Protection Act. Very few walrus are harvested annually for their ivory as there are numerous walrus found along the beaches after being killed by polar bears, plus harvesting a live walrus is a Herculean task. If one wanted to carve walrus ivory using fossilized ivory presents the least amount of issues. WALRUS (non-fossil)- Regulated by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service under the 1972 Marine Mammal Protection Act. Raw walrus ivory predating the Dec. 21, 1972 law, tusks bearing the Alaska state walrus ivory registration tags or post-law walrus ivory that has been carved or scrimshawed by an Alaskan native (Eskimo) are legal to buy, possess, and sell. Raw walrus ivory obtained after 12/21/72 is not legal to buy or sell unless both parties are Eskimo (it is legal to own). A $30 export permit is required to ship walrus ivory or oosik (legal as per above) out of the United States. FOSSIL WALRUS IVORY- Not restricted as it pre-dates the 1972 cutoff, it is legal to buy and sell anywhere within the United States. Shipping ivory or oosik (fossil walrus penal bone) out of the U. S. requires a $30 permit. https://scrimshop.com/shopcart/items/materials2.html https://www.scrimshawcollector.com/product-category/raw-ivory/fossil-walrus/

https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=glue&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=17

Good to see you post again, Simon.

There's a huge gap of wood model ship kits available from the 1860's to 1900. That period of transition from sail to steam, cannon to gun, and wood to iron clad is largely ignored. I guess it's driven by market demand but I still say provide the option, I think manufactures would be surprised.