rwiederrich

Good question. Several things I take into consideration. First:.... The angle of the sails is directly attributed to the direction of the wind and the *tack* of the vessel. Most paintings you see of sailing ships, the sails appear full on...meaning the wind is leeward, or coming in from the side of the vessel. When the vessel is running with the wind, the sails will be perpendicular....some paintings of ships looking toward their bow,,,shows this inclination. Second:.... In many cases, when you reef your yards over to port or starboard..you need to make sure the yards do not impede or press up against the backstays or the shrouds. This can become quite evident on the shrouds of the tops. or the topmast shrouds. I chose a 20deg to starboard reef for the Great Republic,,,,but there is nothing that dictates the degree...but the desire and privy of the modeler. Also if you set the cant/reef to an extreme, you could adequately hide the rigging details of the sails and the yards behind the sails......IF... you do not allow viewing from both sides of the vessel. My Great Republic is in its case against the wall...preventing one to view clearly from the starboard side. But because I rigged my yards with only a 20deg...Cant/reef...the viewer can see all the detail of the internal rigging AND can see all the detail of the sail face rigging as well....without making the vessel look like it is running with the wind...or having the wind directly behind the vessel. Which is a rare thing indeed, under natural conditions. Hope this helps. Rob

I hope you can find it and it helps..... Rob

Interesting...I don't get it..you should be able to see just below every post I make a line then the list of current builds I'm involved with. Here...just go to the scratch built model thread and press page #7. The Great Republic thread is located there, several lines down. press that and then follow the previous directions. Weird......

Utterly magnificent. Your skill is unmatched. Rob

Keith...simply delightful. Masterfully accomplished. Rob

Personally I do not think it is too thin for that scale...but if you are still questioning...simply get a hold of some thicker ply paper. Copier paper comes in all manner of thicknesses. Just go to your paper supply store and ask for a sample of some of their thicker stock to compare. For larger sails...you might consider getting some of the larger sheets used for official documents. Also remember, you will be painting the paper sail as well(both sides), so this will also add dimension. Keep me posted if you will...of your progress... Rob

I'm sorry...just look at my sig line beneath any comment I make, you will see the models I am working on. the Great Republic's log is there to review. The sail making portion begins on page #17 post #505. If you follow along you will note that even my own knowledge and skill improves...and I made some revelations on the 3rd and 4 sails on page #19. I originally failed to take into consideration the amount of paper required to make the *Billow* of the sail. I needed to add slightly more material to the height of the sail to make sure it reaches properly down to the next yard and the sheets are well drawn through the sheaves of the lower yard. The error can be see on other folks examples of their own sails. It really isn't a big deal, but a fully set sail had its clue points drawn down snugly to the lower yard. Hope this helps. Rob

The size 12~24 is referencing the size of the sail panels. Some sails utilized a 12" panel that makes up the sail and it gives the sail its vertical lines. Some sails used double wide panels...24. this depended on the bolt of material the sail maker used. Yes the lines I drew are representative of the panel lines. Yes you can copy each sail as it is on the plastic sheet....however the *stretch* of each sail must be taken into consideration when making them. As far as adding the top and side banding...(other then the belly band and the reef point band)... they are all I add. I tried to add the foot band...but because the sail must have that *Natural* curve along its lower edge...adding paper to this edge is quite difficult. so because of the scale....I left it off of all the sails. It's omission, hardly does noticed and having a wrinkled band is unacceptable...and cutting a curved band for each sail was far to argueous. Lastly...the belly and reef point band can be one in the same or separate, depending on the particular sail you are modeling. Just follow the design on your plastic sail sheet...you can also transfer the panel lines from the plastic sails to the paper ones. Let me know how it goes. Remember...experiment often if you desire to solidify your technique. Don;t forget to visit my Build log for the Great Republic...there I posted some images of the sails in stages of their construction. Rob

Bill, if I can assist in any way, please let me know. Here are some recent pictures of the sails on my current project, Glory of the Seas. A mix of furled and set. Trying to depict her in the only image of her under sail. Rob

Thanks Michael.....paper is amazing when its manipulated into convincing sails. Rob

I turned the model around and am getting ready to begin the entire port side rigging of all the yard lifts, halyards, buntlines and blocks and the sheets. Lot of stuff going on...but it works out better this way. Rob

Thanks Druxey.. Spent a bit more time today working on the topgallant and royal rigging. Here I'm setting up for the lifts and sheets.

Here is a bit better image. You can see the lift on the topgallant...and the halyards on both yards. When things dry a bit I will add the royal lift and then rig up the sheets and the buntlines and their blocks.. Rob

Now the sail ir bent and the yard is fixed to the mast. I installed the lift and getting ready to work up the sheets and their blocks. I decided to work on one side at a time...so I don't have to keep flipping the model around. This is why you can see the topgallant still needs the port lines installed.

Spent a bit of time working on the Glory....I began the royal yard....here before the furled sail is bent to it.

Thank Arina....I anxiously awaiting when he will want to meet. I have so much to discuss with him and it would be such an honor. I hope to hear from him soon when that will be possible. Rob

Arina...hello. I am missing your father...since this Corona nonsense. We never got to meet up. Everything hit hard and I'm hoping everything is well and Mike is well. I'm still planning on getting together with him...just don't know if he is able at this time. Please let him know I am still looking forward to our meeting. Rob(Glory fan)

Pre-rigging the mast, and even adding sails to the yards before you set the mast in the hull is an extreme time saver, not to mention it allows you to get up close and personal, without having to fight existing rigging on the model. I adopted this technique for the mast/rigging construction for my 1/128 Great Republic slipper.

Wonderful progress...…. Rob

Formed and billowed.

Beautiful model by the way....nice, clean execution. Now if you are thinking of using the preformed Furled sails from the kit...DON'T! They are poor representations of furled sails. 2 things to consider: If you are attempting to use paper as furled sails, you need to treat the paper first..before you ever attempt to use it as a furled sail...and what does that mean? You have to crumple the paper so much that it becomes almost soft and pliable... then it can be successfully used. Next, in your case make mimic yards from dowel material so that you can make and bend your sails to them..working the furled sail against the dowel..forming it. Once you have fashioned the sail to your satisfaction...remove it from the mimic dowel yard and glue it to your model yard. Same with billowing sails. Make a mock-up of the lower and upper yards on a mast and form the sail to them, making all your adjustments and fiddling. When done, it only takes its removal from the *Jig* and it's placement and gluing to the model. See? You never have to try to bend your sail initially to the finished model, possibly ruining all your previous rigging work. Rob

Typing it out was nothing....really, I was not on a mobile devise.. Take measurements from yard to yard if you can. Measuring the existing plastic sail will work too, but you must remember, if you measure the exact height, when you curve the sail it will become to short and your sheets will be long and the sail will not be fully bent to the lower yard. When I was experimenting with the sail length I found if I added a mm or so of extra length to the sail, that when I rolled and *billowed* the sail it fit perfectly. Paper sails do not stretch like real cotton canvas sails do. Make a few trial runs to see if you have the correct billow you are seeking. I'm sure your idea will work. Just practice it. Rob

No secret really...and no problem sharing. I did describe this method in my Great Republic Build log...but for expeditious purposes, I'll describe the process here. First, you'll need to know the scale of your sails.....this means you'll need to know the size of the panels...generally they are 12~24" in width. Then take your plain white copy paper...8"X11" general thickness. Next you draw all your panel lines in scale on the paper...to include both sides. Making sure your lines are as close to being over the top of each other as possible. Once you have the *Master* Go to your copier and make loads of double sided copies. Now you have the foundation of your sail material. Then all you have to do is cut out your desired sail from each of the copies. This may mean you have to align the panel lines correctly for stay sails and jibs. Main course and topsails will require the panel lines to run vertical. Once the sail is cleanly cut...I use a sharp scalpel and metal rule...you need to then cut strips for all the banding and edging you will need from a plain sheet of paper. Keep these also to scale...12~24". Now you break out the white glue and glue on your top band....belly and reef bands. I just spread the glue so lightly on the band..turn it over and hold it where it needs to be and press it against the sail. You'll Leave enough on both edges outside the sail, hanging off....you'll cut these extra pieces off later. Next you take some bands and glue and press them along the side edges. Again leaving some material over the edges. One thing I failed to mention..prior to adding the banding you will have cut the bottom of the sail in its *curved* fashion....from sheet point to sheet point. I have a good eye...so I simply draw the curve from middle to edge(sheet point* on both sides. You will NOT be adding a foot band. Remember at the scales we are talking about, 1/96~1/128, we don't need these details. The main sail anatomy of panel lines and banding will suffice. Once you add the bunt lines and any other sail control lines your period requires...your sails will look amazing. Now, back to the sails....once the glue is dried, and it doesn't take long. Take a sharp scissor and precisely cut off the extra banding along the sail edges. Now you have the clean basic sail to begin working. Sails need control points or clue and cringle points. What I did was make extremely small wire eye bolts(Electric motor winding wire) and glued them on these places...and then cut patchwork points that I glued over the top of the shanks of the eyebolts....making sure to press then down snugly against the sail..pressing out any excess glue. The patchwork is simply cut from the strips, previously used for the banding and cut to fit the angles of the clue corner of the sail . I make clipper sails.....so I don't use rope along the edge of the sail. At my scales it would be an unnecessary detail. Next, I first use a dowel to begin the sail curving..by rolling the dowel along the sail in your hand....like rolling a cigarette. Now this may take some practice...rolling the sail against the dowel between your fingertips. Once a curve has been created, you want to *billow* the sail. All I can say is go get a fondant/gumpaste metal ball rolling tool. They are used to roll the edges of fondant flower pedals. When this tool is used with its thin foam pad....you can roll along the bottom edge of the sail and literally create a *billow* effect in the paper. So your sail doesn't simply have the curve to it, but an actual exaggerated billowed edge. this technique can be somewhat technique sensitive..so don't overdue it and ruin your sail. I practiced a bit on a plain piece of paper first. Once you have the general curves and billows in your sail...you'll want to paint the sail...in what ever color you think best suits the era of sail you are creating. A nice muslin tan works. Now, apply the paint in even thin coats. You want the panel lines to be muted and opaque...covered, but not so, much that they are completely painted over. Paint both sides and let dry. I place them under a hot lightbulb and they dry in no time. Once dry, you can add your buntlines. Mark out the distance and location lightly with a pencil and run your line through a pool of white glue,,,removing excess and then stretch the line across the sail from top to bottom in the desired location..press it against the sail. when dry, you cut off the excess at the lower edge of the sail. You can if desired bring the buntline all the way around the bottom of the sail and up the inside if that amount of detail is desired. Now attaching the sail to the yard may cause some purists to try another method, but for me(And I'm a simple man), I lay a bead of glue(this time I use good wood glue) on the inner edge of the sail....the point of contact to the yard and I glue the sail to the yard. I use alligator clips to aid me in this. You want the sail to be on the top/front of the yard...facing out almost...because you want the sail to appear to be pulling away from the yard NOT just hanging down from the yard. This technique works best (from my experience) when you are working off the model... When dry....finish laying your buntlines and rig the sail...….. In a nutshell...this is my technique. Does it take some work, and finesse......YEP...but what doesn't? Good luck Rob

Even the jib sails are fully detailed with their hanks, haulyard and downhaul. Same principle....paper, glue and little manipulation. Rob

Remember, as stated before..the devils in the details and concerning reef points. Most try to use thread..punching it through the sail...but thread in many amaller scales is waaay out of scale...plus thread *NEVER* wants to naturally hang across the billowing sail. Am I right? I developed a trick that works in a flash. Just take a tan colored nylon bristle brush and cut the desired length of pieces that can be used as the reef point. Careful.....these guys can be invisible. Take them and dip their cut and into a puddle of white glue and then press it against the reef band at the appropriate distance. These nylon bristles look very convincing and they are uniform. Here are a couple of pics to show.