rwiederrich

Thanks Michael.....paper is amazing when its manipulated into convincing sails. Rob

I turned the model around and am getting ready to begin the entire port side rigging of all the yard lifts, halyards, buntlines and blocks and the sheets. Lot of stuff going on...but it works out better this way. Rob

Thanks Druxey.. Spent a bit more time today working on the topgallant and royal rigging. Here I'm setting up for the lifts and sheets.

Here is a bit better image. You can see the lift on the topgallant...and the halyards on both yards. When things dry a bit I will add the royal lift and then rig up the sheets and the buntlines and their blocks.. Rob

Now the sail ir bent and the yard is fixed to the mast. I installed the lift and getting ready to work up the sheets and their blocks. I decided to work on one side at a time...so I don't have to keep flipping the model around. This is why you can see the topgallant still needs the port lines installed.

Spent a bit of time working on the Glory....I began the royal yard....here before the furled sail is bent to it.

Thank Arina....I anxiously awaiting when he will want to meet. I have so much to discuss with him and it would be such an honor. I hope to hear from him soon when that will be possible. Rob

Arina...hello. I am missing your father...since this Corona nonsense. We never got to meet up. Everything hit hard and I'm hoping everything is well and Mike is well. I'm still planning on getting together with him...just don't know if he is able at this time. Please let him know I am still looking forward to our meeting. Rob(Glory fan)

Pre-rigging the mast, and even adding sails to the yards before you set the mast in the hull is an extreme time saver, not to mention it allows you to get up close and personal, without having to fight existing rigging on the model. I adopted this technique for the mast/rigging construction for my 1/128 Great Republic slipper.

Wonderful progress...…. Rob

Formed and billowed.

Beautiful model by the way....nice, clean execution. Now if you are thinking of using the preformed Furled sails from the kit...DON'T! They are poor representations of furled sails. 2 things to consider: If you are attempting to use paper as furled sails, you need to treat the paper first..before you ever attempt to use it as a furled sail...and what does that mean? You have to crumple the paper so much that it becomes almost soft and pliable... then it can be successfully used. Next, in your case make mimic yards from dowel material so that you can make and bend your sails to them..working the furled sail against the dowel..forming it. Once you have fashioned the sail to your satisfaction...remove it from the mimic dowel yard and glue it to your model yard. Same with billowing sails. Make a mock-up of the lower and upper yards on a mast and form the sail to them, making all your adjustments and fiddling. When done, it only takes its removal from the *Jig* and it's placement and gluing to the model. See? You never have to try to bend your sail initially to the finished model, possibly ruining all your previous rigging work. Rob

Typing it out was nothing....really, I was not on a mobile devise.. Take measurements from yard to yard if you can. Measuring the existing plastic sail will work too, but you must remember, if you measure the exact height, when you curve the sail it will become to short and your sheets will be long and the sail will not be fully bent to the lower yard. When I was experimenting with the sail length I found if I added a mm or so of extra length to the sail, that when I rolled and *billowed* the sail it fit perfectly. Paper sails do not stretch like real cotton canvas sails do. Make a few trial runs to see if you have the correct billow you are seeking. I'm sure your idea will work. Just practice it. Rob

No secret really...and no problem sharing. I did describe this method in my Great Republic Build log...but for expeditious purposes, I'll describe the process here. First, you'll need to know the scale of your sails.....this means you'll need to know the size of the panels...generally they are 12~24" in width. Then take your plain white copy paper...8"X11" general thickness. Next you draw all your panel lines in scale on the paper...to include both sides. Making sure your lines are as close to being over the top of each other as possible. Once you have the *Master* Go to your copier and make loads of double sided copies. Now you have the foundation of your sail material. Then all you have to do is cut out your desired sail from each of the copies. This may mean you have to align the panel lines correctly for stay sails and jibs. Main course and topsails will require the panel lines to run vertical. Once the sail is cleanly cut...I use a sharp scalpel and metal rule...you need to then cut strips for all the banding and edging you will need from a plain sheet of paper. Keep these also to scale...12~24". Now you break out the white glue and glue on your top band....belly and reef bands. I just spread the glue so lightly on the band..turn it over and hold it where it needs to be and press it against the sail. You'll Leave enough on both edges outside the sail, hanging off....you'll cut these extra pieces off later. Next you take some bands and glue and press them along the side edges. Again leaving some material over the edges. One thing I failed to mention..prior to adding the banding you will have cut the bottom of the sail in its *curved* fashion....from sheet point to sheet point. I have a good eye...so I simply draw the curve from middle to edge(sheet point* on both sides. You will NOT be adding a foot band. Remember at the scales we are talking about, 1/96~1/128, we don't need these details. The main sail anatomy of panel lines and banding will suffice. Once you add the bunt lines and any other sail control lines your period requires...your sails will look amazing. Now, back to the sails....once the glue is dried, and it doesn't take long. Take a sharp scissor and precisely cut off the extra banding along the sail edges. Now you have the clean basic sail to begin working. Sails need control points or clue and cringle points. What I did was make extremely small wire eye bolts(Electric motor winding wire) and glued them on these places...and then cut patchwork points that I glued over the top of the shanks of the eyebolts....making sure to press then down snugly against the sail..pressing out any excess glue. The patchwork is simply cut from the strips, previously used for the banding and cut to fit the angles of the clue corner of the sail . I make clipper sails.....so I don't use rope along the edge of the sail. At my scales it would be an unnecessary detail. Next, I first use a dowel to begin the sail curving..by rolling the dowel along the sail in your hand....like rolling a cigarette. Now this may take some practice...rolling the sail against the dowel between your fingertips. Once a curve has been created, you want to *billow* the sail. All I can say is go get a fondant/gumpaste metal ball rolling tool. They are used to roll the edges of fondant flower pedals. When this tool is used with its thin foam pad....you can roll along the bottom edge of the sail and literally create a *billow* effect in the paper. So your sail doesn't simply have the curve to it, but an actual exaggerated billowed edge. this technique can be somewhat technique sensitive..so don't overdue it and ruin your sail. I practiced a bit on a plain piece of paper first. Once you have the general curves and billows in your sail...you'll want to paint the sail...in what ever color you think best suits the era of sail you are creating. A nice muslin tan works. Now, apply the paint in even thin coats. You want the panel lines to be muted and opaque...covered, but not so, much that they are completely painted over. Paint both sides and let dry. I place them under a hot lightbulb and they dry in no time. Once dry, you can add your buntlines. Mark out the distance and location lightly with a pencil and run your line through a pool of white glue,,,removing excess and then stretch the line across the sail from top to bottom in the desired location..press it against the sail. when dry, you cut off the excess at the lower edge of the sail. You can if desired bring the buntline all the way around the bottom of the sail and up the inside if that amount of detail is desired. Now attaching the sail to the yard may cause some purists to try another method, but for me(And I'm a simple man), I lay a bead of glue(this time I use good wood glue) on the inner edge of the sail....the point of contact to the yard and I glue the sail to the yard. I use alligator clips to aid me in this. You want the sail to be on the top/front of the yard...facing out almost...because you want the sail to appear to be pulling away from the yard NOT just hanging down from the yard. This technique works best (from my experience) when you are working off the model... When dry....finish laying your buntlines and rig the sail...….. In a nutshell...this is my technique. Does it take some work, and finesse......YEP...but what doesn't? Good luck Rob

Even the jib sails are fully detailed with their hanks, haulyard and downhaul. Same principle....paper, glue and little manipulation. Rob

Remember, as stated before..the devils in the details and concerning reef points. Most try to use thread..punching it through the sail...but thread in many amaller scales is waaay out of scale...plus thread *NEVER* wants to naturally hang across the billowing sail. Am I right? I developed a trick that works in a flash. Just take a tan colored nylon bristle brush and cut the desired length of pieces that can be used as the reef point. Careful.....these guys can be invisible. Take them and dip their cut and into a puddle of white glue and then press it against the reef band at the appropriate distance. These nylon bristles look very convincing and they are uniform. Here are a couple of pics to show.

I felt that way too....but I developed a method using paper that is so easy....it almost makes me feel I have *one-up* on everyone else. Silk Span is a good medium, however it tends to be too translucent. Almost transparent. Just not what I was looking for. Paper still resembles the natural translucency of cotton canvas, and is so forgiving. Plus a bit of white glue and a sharp knife and ruler...and anyone can be a sail maker. Rob

Yes Bob they come with an expandable hose that fits to a window adapter. I elevate my machines so I can run the drain hose to a bucket for condensation collection. If you don't do this you will have to tip the thing to the side/back to drain the internal tank...(what a pain). Rob

Yes indeed they can be. You have to include panel lines and belly/reef and top banding...not to mention the reef points and clue and cringle rings. Paper lets me build my sails with plain white glue and then I can roll and billow them using a cake makers fondant ball roller tool. Pressed and rolled against a thin foam backing, This allows me to get the edges to *roll* making the sail *fill*. Then they can be painted with what ever shade of tan you choose(Lightly...you don't want to totally cover up the inked in panel lines). Next the bunt and leech lines can be added, along with the reef points. A finished out sail can in of itself, be a small model all by itself if ample details are desired. And once the paper is painted it holds its shape, especially if it's clued to the lower yard. Thanks for the fine compliments. Rob

One thing to note.....when adding sails...to establish viable realism...they must have billow and must have form to impress the notion they are active. Billowed sails are active sails.... IMV, is left limp they give the vessel the appearance of *Drying sails* or as in a calm. Note in the image the drying of sails and how they are lifeless...sheets pulled up. Rob

I have several of them and they are fantastic. You definitely need to vent them, however, generally though a window. And you need to set up a condensate drip tank near them. They have an internal collection tank, and you can drain them, but what a pain....I simply elevate my air conditioners and run a drain line off and down to a collection tub...that I can easily dump out when close to full. Keeps things as cool as 60 degrees in real hot weather.....nice...…. Rob

And currently I am adding set and furled sails to my Clipper, Glory of the Seas. Paper is IMV convincing at this scale as well....1/96. Here are several images.

To the OP....personally, I prefer sails on models..even if they are only furled. In reality, vessels generally only removed their sails when in port of extended periods or in service dock, to eliminate clutter and to do maintenance on the sails themselves. If you are considering the Cutty Sark...remember....the expansive sail pattern was one of the aspects that made a clipper a fast vessel....it was one thing that made her unique from other ship designs. Clippers carried lots of sails for their hull size. So in my view the sails are just as much a part of the overall representation of the vessel type, as is the hull...or all her rigging. My recently completed Great Republic sported 22 sails...and I left off many stay and all the stunsails. Here is an image of how convincing PAPER sails can be on a 1/128 scale model. One with light so you can see the translucency of paper. Rob

Vlad...I'm just so happy I could be of any influence...when it comes to clippers. Since the clipper is an American invention...an invention of necessity....I am compelled by their robust, wood construction and grace in simplicity. Even though the Clipper Era was short...there were and are, a vast amount of vessels to entice the prudent modeler. I am so glad you are beginning to focus on the Flying Fish. She was one of McKay's smaller models..but she had a wonderful history. A good set of plans is a good start....and 1/48 is a fairly large scale to work in...so details can be more accurately replicated. Good luck and I'm glad I can be of any help. Rob

Yes..can you imagine Donald McKay's reaction when he first heard that his largest most expensive vessel burned to the water...before she could even prove herself in her design and her ability. To answer your question, *Am I going to build every clipper Donald McKay built....well the answer to that is no. He built 38 clippers...from extreme models to medium designs. With that said....I am mostly interested in the models that made significant contributions and or had historical implications. Not simply recognizing the ones that have available plans and working descriptions. I first built the Glory of the Seas, because she was Donald's last clipper, with an epic beginning...not to mention life and end. The Donald McKay...she was Donald's second largest clipper and the last *extreme* clipper McKay built. Similar to the clipper Lightning, she had a (single) open railed gangway that led from the poop deck forward to the main cabin...permitting sailors to traverse forward and aft without having to descend down to the main deck and back up to the forecastle. An ingenious design that the latter *Windjammers* and DownEasters would employ. Then there is the Great Republic...being nearly twice as large as the average clipper and coming in at a whopping 4555 tons. She was, IMV a *natural*. Her concept to her demise is a thrilling story in of itself. an amazing ship and tale. I have one other Ship of significant design, that is on my list to build from the McKay catalog and that is the Sovereign of the Seas. She was large, 2421 tons...but she is famous for being the Fastest clipper ship ever made. Not only in knots per hour, but in miles logged per day. The Flying Cloud is on record for having the fastest passages from NY to SanFran, however, the Sovereign, holds the fastest speeds and miles per day records. I entertained building all of Donald McKay's clippers that shared the same theme in their names....too, like, Sovereign of the Seas ,Empress of the Seas, Romance of the Seas, Champion of the Seas and Glory of the Seas. However, more important contributions superseded vessel names. Hope this helps. Rob