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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Spent some time working on sails..... Here are some pix. Started with the topgallant construction...
  2. Thanks Popeye....I'm trying the best I can to achieve the most accuracy in this scale. Rob
  3. Wire. Then painted black. No one is going to play with them to see if they are hemp or not...and in many cases, anyway, they were wire cable. Once tucked amid the numerous other running and standing rigging....they present themselves with great accuracy. Which is the actual goal anyway. Thanks for the fine comments and interest. Rob
  4. Once that was all done I moved into making and installing the first of the sails...the royal. It is setting suspended at the right billow..and allowed to dry....then I will add the clew blocks to the clew cringles and finish rigging the bubntlines by adding the bunt blocks on the yard and running the lines down along the mast to the spider rail. After this is all finished I will begin fabricating the topgallant sail and her rig.... Rob
  5. I realized that I could also add items side by side as well as from top to bottom. Installing all the sagging lifts one side at a time made the process move out faster. Next is making and adding all the blocks needed for the sail rigging and for the yards. Unlike last time, I'll probably just make all the blocks, then hang them and then run the rigging. It is more productive for me to create small projects......making the BIG project come along that much faster......It's all mental.... I'll be back at it tomorrow for an hour or so then CHRISTMAS! Merry Christmas everyone....... Rob
  6. Those resistors are great for toning down the brightness of those LED's. I appreciate your response about the sails. Fine chalk powders are great for weathering, if that is what you are using. Cloth sails have always been problematic....because of the scale issue....I'm interested in your technique. Another question; What is the gold paint you are using for all your gold work? Is that the automotive paint? It sure is bright and has a tendency to flow smoothly into voids and makes the carvings softer and less rigid looking. Rob
  7. Fantastic Doris.... I can see from that one image of you holding the cabin bulkhead, that your scale is much larger than what I generally work in. 1/55 is slightly larger than 1/128. Your work is just wonderful.... On another note; you will have to give a quick tutorial on how you fashioned your sails...what they are made of and your treatments for them. Your sails are very realistic. Rob
  8. Once all the yards are mounted, then I will add all the relaxed lifts in sequence. I began the topgallant yard by adding all the eye bolts and the sheet block...now I'm getting ready to rig the foot ropes and stirrups. The sheet holes have been drilled and chamfered. Rob
  9. Spent a bit of time today and finished up the top sail yard...still need to add the halyard.
  10. These are my vary own thoughts. I am no purist and for as long as I have been building ship models(nearly 50 years), I have used anything and everything to build my models. You can find material from wood, plastic, metal, paper, card, wax, vinyl, rubber, poly-, bondo, plaster, and a plethora of other materials on all my models. The key philosophy is that *Paint covers a multitude of sin*, and the REAL ship I'm modeling was painted. It's not what you use to build your model...it's HOW you used it and does it replicate what you are modeling accurately. Rob
  11. Layering of multiple colors is the key to form detailed cabinetry. Wonderfully done. I suspect the light has come on for many modelers after you have exposed your techniques and they will begin to incorporate these techniques and materials into their own builds...so very nice. The purist of modeler can still find respect for your technique...even though they themselves would try to achieve their results in wood. I am a firm believer in using whatever material you can to achieve the results you are seeking. It is the end result that matters.. NOT what you made your model from. You have done that is great measure. Rob
  12. In this sail-less image, the lines missing are the buntlines and the stun sail yard rigging. Still lots going on with out them. Rob
  13. Indeed, I am confident you are very correct. However, my point is that the smaller the scale, the more difficult the application....just by the size and my inability to handle the material...due to shaky old hands. I see a million applications for this material...and I for one will avail myself of it for future builds. Thanks so vary much for your tutorials. Rob
  14. I took one of the over all build sight...and one from on face so you can see the the 20+deg pitch to the yards. This weekend and most of next week I'll be building like mad(I pray). Rob
  15. Spent a bit of time this evening making the lower top mast. Because this design is based on Forbes and not Howes...the lower topsail has a large gin block used for hauling up the spar. I remembered that I will be adding the yards going up in sequence and THEN coming back down adding the sails in sequence. Here is a couple pix of my slow progress tonight.
  16. I find this technique very reminiscent of a technique I also used on some models....however, I I didn't grasp the realization of using this technique extensively as Doris has. Not to answer for her, but I believe real wood is used for the proper relief needed and being real wood in a desirous shade it blends in after being sealed with the dull coat. Wonderful execution. My Great Republic deck houses are smaller than her interior panels alone.....so the strips would have to be extremely thin if I were ever to adapt this technique in my scale. Still it is intriguing. Rob
  17. Michael...wonderful adaptation. Looks like something I would do...oh wait......I have. I also have some high speed air dental hand pieces, I Use as well that work very good. Great ingenuity. Rob
  18. Well.... having nice sail control rigging doesn't always mean it has to be completely blocked by the sails. When sails are removed you lose some additional rigging namely the buntlines and clews. You only get to see the rigging from the aft aspect...if it is done correctly, you can still enjoy it with sails set. Rob
  19. Thank you Doris for the fine examples of the direction you are going. I suspect my own lack of the exact time frame for the shift from offset bowsprits to the more traditional forward and on axis designs drove me to this line of questioning. I'm looking at the counter action created by the gammon lashing, which do their work by pulling the bowsprite in toward the midline and down toward the stem. Your picture examples show that lateral forces are applied to the starboard side of the Stem not on top of the stem(which I referred to as the *Foot*)....which in later designs became more prevalent. If the bowsprit does not find support from contact with the *Foot* or Stem...then all the Gammon lashing energy is being countered by the fore stays. Regardless....my questions have been answered, and your attention is most appreciated. Love your work. Rob
  20. I appreciate that very much Popeye....effective looking sails can be some of the hardest things to replicate...and keeping the web of rigging that controls them is just as critical. Now I'm back at the beginning stages again of yard fabrication and rigging for the mainmast. Much of what I learned along the way of fabricating the foremast will truly expedite this next masts construction. Foot ropes, stirrups, and eye bolts will all be added prior to install. I'll be off work for 11 days during the holidays so I hope to get loads of work done. Thanks again for your fine comments and compliments. Rob
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