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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    Thank you....if it ain't one thing...it's six other things. I have so many conversion models I'm working all at the same time...I feel exhausted. Which one to work when I have so little time to give to them ? Glory of the Seas...needs finishing up on backstays and yards(running rigging). Donald McKay...needs Fore and main masts and yards(Rigging). Great Republic...needs shrouds,backstays, yards(rigging) Ferreira...needs(running rigging)
  2. rwiederrich
    Yes..the flat head punch concentrates the force and makes very nice flat portions to the wire. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Doug...when smashing wire..use a flat head punch to contact the wire and strike it, instead of the wire. This way you can have more control of what the wire does under compression. Then you can return to them and use a moto tool and grind/file them to make them all similar.
  4. rwiederrich
    Steve....I'll try to add more pages so you can have something to follow. Thanks for your attention and comment. Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    Well Pat..I can be relatively fast when I'm actually working on the models. As of late, time has been precious and that tends to keep my modeling hours to a severe minimum. Thanks for the comments. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    A couple images of the new boats and their davits. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    Boy it has been a while, hasn't it? I've only just now installed the port and starboard davits and rigged the boats to them. I've had much family issues as of late..new grand babies, in-laws passing away...so I've not been doing much. But to answer your question. I didn't use brass strips...I used soft metal rod wire about 1mm dia., cut them for convenience sake(bout 1.5"long) and then using a hammer and anvil smashed one end to represent the chainplate mounting plate. I then cleaned the smashed area up and evened them...bent them in the correct locations and pressed them into pre made slots in the channedl. Leaving just enough of the metal exposed on top of the channel to secure the dead-eye to. Then I covered the recesses with a finishing strip. I then secured several finishing rivets on the plates. Thanks for asking. Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    From what my study has revealed , unlike men of war, clippers were heavily spared and generally had taller masts to accommodate those spars. Double channels simple allowed the stresses of the shrouds and backstays to disperse their loads over a greater surface. Double channels allowed such forces to be fixed as have been mentioned earlier, over a greater area of strength on the hull...plus more points of contact for the chainplates allowed for greater retention against the pull or force applied against them. Enormous lateral stresses were placed upon the shrouds and backstays and many captains who were bent on *DRIVING* their ships in extreme conditions, far beyond what would be expected in ordinary ships relied upon well built *STRONG* vessels to *Do the Impossible*. these ships had to be extremely strong to endure what they were expected to do, in the hands of a driving captain. Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Wonderful job indeed. I appreciate the sentiment for the one you care about. I plan on making a half hull model of the clipper ship Sovereign of the Seas for my study/library. I did, however, make a half hull model using one half of a broken model of the Revell 1/96 Constitution. It worked out very well and it was nice to detail out the chain plates and deadeyes with metal and wood parts. I have no images of this build because it was so long ago and I never thought to take images. It was given to a friend. I'll enjoy following your log. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    Pat the technique works on any thing you want to weather. You can substitute brown Ink for the black if you like. Here are some images of the Revell Cutty Sark I converted into the Portuguese Ferriera. This is modeled when she was at her lowest, rotting in some backwater. before she was purchased and rebuilt to her original glory. I applied the alcohol technique to everything and then applied cerium oxide(which is an extremely fine(5 micron) powder to dust and add further ageing. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    I think we are digressing from the OP's original question. How do you age a deck to look.....weathered? Personally I use extremely diluted India ink in 90~100% Isopropyl alcohol sprayed on from a spray bottle. The ink is spread along the cracks and creases using capillary action and then the alcohol evaporates and leaves a nice *Weathered* surface. The extent of the Weathering depends on your ink dilution and your application. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    In my experience..it is like taking a piece of greyed pine(weathered) and then plane it down to raw wood...it becomes much lighter..hence the *whiteness* mentioned and referenced. Fresh planed wood cannot be made any whiter then it is already is...not unless you bleach it with chemicals. Even as you mentioned..tar stains and the like that came from dirty feet that have been climbing tarred ratlines and similar fixtures needed to be removed from the deck...I'm sure holystoning made the deck lighter. Buffing a high traffic area (In a tiled public building) with a buffer today is probably the modern equivalent. Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    I feel weathering is dependent on the theme or state of the model/vessel you are modeling. Even in brand new vessels a certain amount of weathering is expected if not avoidable. Sun, salt water is caustic to wood and metal and to eliminate the effects entirely is, IMV not representing the vessel accurately.
  14. rwiederrich
    Or *Sheer v. sheer*...that one always trips me up. Heehee. Ed...Your work is a model for all who are serious about improving their own skill. Happy new year! Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    It depends on the era of ship you are building. Copper oxidizes whitish green..Muntz metal turns a metallic/brown when oxidized. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    I originally left it shinny copper..it looked awful. Painting/sealing it with metallic paint created the desired oxidized muntz metal look. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    I used a roller with wire mesh and a strip of sanding matrix...all compressed in the roller and out comes the finished plates. For my scale it worked.
  18. rwiederrich
    Goat Locker shipyard? I built a rolling gig that I simply rolled foil sections with imprinting material to form the individual plates in 6 inch sections. I then painted the finished copper with metallic paint to seal them and to age them to look like oxidized Muntz Metal. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Good job Jim. Plating is a tedious job and your work paid off...looks great. Copper tarnished with a green/white film...were Muntz metal that was used on my clipper ships turned more of a metallic brownish color. Supper job! Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Wonderful! Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    Excellent....but you will be modeling her with her original single topsail yards as you originally claimed? Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    Ed..it occurred to me..will you be treating the yards as you have with every other portion of this build and leave some incomplete to demonstrate the symmetry of the build, or will all the yards receive the detail you are placing on the main yards? Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    I too find it strange....and a bit frustrating. On one hand you have the data(or lack of it) and on the other hand you have logical application. The problem arises when your logical...reasonable application does not concur with what the limited known record shows. Some of the stunsail spars on some McKay ships rest on top of the main yard suspended above the jackstays with points of leverage at the yard ends, much like your example...but without the interior iron. I don't know.....without sails being bent, the detail is astonishing, and since none of us are true experienced experts in the actual rig of these vessels...your application might be the best and will have to fall within the parameters of every other *creative license* move we make...to try and replicate these magnificent ships. I don't recall off hand, but was the YA's cabins actually painted white....or *Pearl* or *Buff*? Your YA is stunning to say the least...any number of us would have done things differently on many points...but you have done it superbly. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Great job Ed...love it all. It appears the fife rail is pulling from the deck on that last image? Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    GAW is the metal whisperer....... Unbelievable workmanship. Rob

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