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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    I know right....but the Great Republic didn't carry them during the period I am modeling........her expanse of sail was the largest ever placed on a sailing ship(120ft main sails)...and by the way...she wouldn't have set them on her journey down the coast from Boston to New York anyway. Not one contemporary painting or model of her depicts her with stunn sails set. I still have to rig the buntline blocks on the yard for the topgallant and I'll be finished with that yard...and on to the upper topsail. Pics will be forthcoming. Rob(I know...*it never happened* unless you have pics)
  2. rwiederrich
    Dave....so true. Many years ago after I built my third Cutty Sark model...I diverted. I refocused and began modeling period HO steam model layouts. those are a bit more diversified in their subject matter. In addition to model railroading...I build Refractor telescopes(In my machine shop area of my shop)...and I dabble in furniture making as well(In my wood working area). So...I've had to diversify my hobbies to stay interested. I'll jump into one for a time and as I finish up a project(Or not), I tend to get re-inspired, and then I'm back at clipper ship modeling(Or what-ever). I have 4 scratch builds on the ways...not to mention several telescope projects...and now my wife needs me to build her a new Maple mantle for the living room before Christmas. Hang in there, and I'll bop in and see your new log...great job. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Here is another example of what I am trying to achieve. Slight billowing that would be expected with a ship with all sails set....Cept stun'sls Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    One other note to point out for those interested. Some might ask why not use silkspan? Silkspan is a very nice, nearly to scale material..but I have my issues with it. One; silkspan does not support itself very well, in larger portions, and therefore need some treatment. Starching or lacquering. This means the sail will need to be formed and then will need some kind of forming mold to support it while it dries. Secondly; Silkspan once painted, tends to demonstrate a crinkled or micro wrinkled texture. In larger scaled vessels this might be acceptable...even if you are modeling drying sails. Limp drying sails generally look wrinkled. However, I want smooth tightly pressed/billowed sails.... and my years of experience with paper sails shows me that they will last...especially once painted. They form very nicely and retail their shape...and being paper you can use simple white glue to make them. This images demonstrates what I'm looking for.
  5. rwiederrich
    Dowmer...The details will get even better when I add the reef bands/points to the topsails and main course. One item I need to compensate for is the length of the sail. When it is *billowed* it shortens. I didn't want my model to have just *hanging* sails, but active ones.....so it takes a bit of 3D imaginational geometry. Kinda like when I make furled sails....I never use the actual size of the sail....but a modified version.so when it is furled it looks neat and tightly and clean...not oversized and bulky. The next couple of days might be a bit slower in the yard due to family issues...but I will attempt to keep moving forward. This is just the first mast...and I have 2 others along with the for and aft rigged spanker. Smooth sailing to all. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    The paint is the preservative. I mounted the topgallant and will take pics tomorrow. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    With these particular sails I am detailing the edges and seams with pencil highlights..adding wear and tear shall we say...just enough to validate the sail, because they are supposed to be new canvas prior to that eventful night the Great Republic burned. Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    One thing I failed to mention about the panel lines on the paper. I drew them out fist on both sides...then double sided copied them over and over....and I reduced the saturation to make the lines as dim but recognizable as possible.....so all that is needed is to cut and paint(after you added the bands of course). I have enough copies to last till the cows come home. Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Once you've decided on the opacity of the panels...let it all dry then add the bunt and clew lines. Reef bands and reef points will be added only on the topsails and the main course. I will glue the sail directly to the yard...since the jackstays will typically be hidden by the bent sail...in my scale I opted to not add the detail. If the yards were bare poles..I surely would have added the jackstays. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    Thanks for the fine compliments, and comment. Their construction is very simple..first you take a piece of copier paper...draw in scale all the panel lines...mine is 3/32 to 1ft. Don't forget both sides. Then you measure and cut out the sail to size. I then cut and place banding using simple white glue(dries fast). You'll have to follow the design of the period and vessel you are building. Next I form the sail by rolling it over a 1/4" dowel..working it gently and rolling it to form the billow. I then us two colors of tan/cotton paint to simulate slightly different sail colors...to add dimension and realism. I'll paint one sail slightly darker then another...if you know what I mean. Several light coats per side will do....you want the panel lines to show through opaquely. Once done you can then add the hardware for the clews and sheets. I still have to add these on this topgallant sail. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Some more.
  12. rwiederrich
    I tinkered on the GR today..not much because a dear friend of ours was admitted to the hospital today...she has early onset Alzheimer's and she had a Grand Mal seizure this morning and she is currently alert but unresponsive..... So I only set the foreroyal. I wanted to do more.....but we're off to the hospital now that she can see visitors. I made the paper sail, rigged it prior to install. Some of the buntlines are loose and so much more needs to be done...but I'm on my way...to setting sail. Here are some images.. Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    I don't get all that precise or technical myself....just use a brown wood glue spread out thin....roll the rope coil up in the glue, starting in the middle and working out. when I have the desired size of coil...I lay the end over the rest and with my fine tweezer slide the entire glued coil up and off the plastic placemat I was working on and then place the coil were I want it...make some final adjustments and then simply let it dry. Yellow wood glue dries clear and with the tan rigging goes unnoticed. No runs, drips ,errors. Even if there is a bit more glue on the rope then needed it all dries clear. Now on to something else to model..... Here are some I did on a model of the Cutty Sark many years ago Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    Fantastic....I'm not sure but did you ever describe your method for making the long twisted wire sheets, and halyards? I have an idea, but would like to know your method. They are quite even and clean. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    Won't get to work on the GR tonight...Grandkids are coming over. but here are some pic of yesterdays work. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    Thanks Pat...very much. I failed to get some images last night, but I finished up the stirrups for the foot ropes and am set to begin adding the relaxed lifts(All the sails are going to be set) and I'll be adding the sheet blocks and their purchases for the topsails, which will be fixed to the top. I try to do projects in separate stages(Like add the foot ropes, then paint any touch-ups...etc)...it makes the build go by faster I think. And for the first time (In 40 years)I am building each mast individually, with all its yards and sails affixed. I will only leave the main yards and their courses removable..so when I step the mast I can more easily rig the main shrouds and ratlines without any interference. As I said...this is the first time I ever tried rigging a mast this way....the advantage is I can fully rotate the mast/yards apart from the hull...making the assembly and addition of new components far easier....then if the mast was already stepped and I had to work around(In my small space) the hull. Pick in up and moving/rotating to the other side would be quite annoying. I don't have the leisure of having my model on a center island where I can work around it. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    Wonderful work...... Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Next visit I will rig the upper and lower topsail's halyards block purchases that fix to the top. The topgallant and royal sheets will follow the downward path along with the buntlines to the rail. The interesting part will be when I add the first sail (Royal). I will need to affix the clew to the sheet at the sail corner garnet (from the topgallant yard)...the trick is permitting just enough oversize or width of the sail so that when it is fixed it will naturally bow...giving the sail the *Full* effect. Once this process is accomplished I will lift the sail up and affix it to the royal yard. After this I can rig the buntlines. Before all this funnary...I will add the foot rope stirrups. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Absolutely Amazingly....beautiful Ed. I was wondering how you were going to run the sheets...but it appears you shackle them to rope then run that down to purchase and to a pin on the rail.....? or is that just the haul? Sweet. Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Spent a bit of time today rigging up the foot ropes and adding more blocks and sheets. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    Spent some time adding blocks to the lifts and to the sheets. Tiny scale is working my eyesight....... Once I get the blocks in place....I'll fix the foot ropes....this is going to be very busy...with sails set too. Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    This is indeed so true of these clipper vessels...rigging was being invented as were nearly every aspect of them....the theme of speed left no area or subject untouched. As you have aptly pointed out, in the short lives of many clippers, their look took on(In some cases extreme) adaptations or improvements. My own experience(And clippers are all I model) has taught me this very important lesson. Thank you for enduring my own criticisms and questions. It was never about your work or your attention to detail or mastery of wood/metal working in such small scales. We are all blessed you have taken your time to share your build with us. Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    I built a few more blocks for the buntlines.
  24. rwiederrich
    Do you have a log for this build? Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    Wait a minute...did you start it already....did I miss this? Am I clueless? Rob

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