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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Even that famous painting of her you love...depicts her plates as weathered brown........take another close look. Rob
  2. My original Revell Conversion version was built to those specs. However, I'm building her as she appears in that San Francisco image...with all the mods to her houses and rigging. She was NOT shinny and new at that point. So to make her so would be an inaccurate representation of her at that point. If one wishes to make her all shinny and new in her later configurations....they would be taking extreme artistic license in doing so. That is my view anyway. If we want to be accurate in one aspect....that needs to transcend into her esthetics as well. Rob
  3. This particular color of paint IMV replicates weathered muntz......NOT......brand new brassy muntz that has not seen water or wear. I know that Vlad is attempting to build his model as clean and flawless as he can...representing a new Glory, as one might expect to see when she came off the *line*. That is not my way. I prefer weathering...it represents IMV a more accurate representation of the subject. Someone once said that a modeler who weathers his model is after effect...while a modeler who models clean spotless models is showing off their skill and prowess as a modeler. Though this notion appears to be on line...IMV it takes more skill to accurately weather a model and not over due it then to simply leave it un touched in an out of the box state. This particular paint is lightly painted on and along with the shinny copper...blends to produce a convincing aged, browning, oxidized muntz metal. It's all perspective anyway. A couple of examples using this technique...changing copper into muntz. And what real old weathered muntz looked like on Cutty Sark
  4. Once I am finished coppering I will mask and paint the plates...once done I will then apply a dull coat to the entire hull(after I add the chainplates and channels). I have more weathering before I seal it all up. Thanks for peekin in. Rob
  5. Spent a bit of time working in the shop and I finished up the starboard side and I masked it off in prep for painting. Here is the paint I use to create it into weathered muntz metal.
  6. Vlad..you are doing great....but I'm trying to wrap my head around the location of the side port. Several images are conflicting and I know that the copper line has changed over time with Glory...probably due to her weight restrictions placed on her over time.....but... Your ports are placed just above her copper line...similar to that of the image of her being towed to Alaska....but her original launch image shows the side port much higher from the copper line. Even the era I am building shows her side port higher up from her copper line. Note the images. Her copper line has changed in her later years...probably after they removed the copper. Sorry about the upside down image..?
  7. I can't wait to mask the copper off and paint it with the metallic color for the muntz color....I really dislike the glare of shiny copper. More to follow. Rob
  8. Spent some time working in the shop and adding more plates. Here is a progression session. Still have a bit more work to do till I'm finished on this side. Rob
  9. I designed a copper plate simulator by way of using a piece of wire fence.....drywall sand paper and a wash bin roller. The simulated nail imprints are convincing IMV, and from a scale distance look fine. Here is a batch of finished strips and applied strips. This method is fast and I think is accurate enough in my scale of 1/96 Check out my *Glory of the Seas* Log in the scratch build section. Rob
  10. Rich...I got an email from Mike and he tells me that he received several images of a *Model* of Glory of her partially painted bow and one of her compared to the launching photograph of Her. Are those images of my version? He sent them along to Ron Haug for analysis and comparison. Hoping to see if any further refinement to his drawings can be produced.....I'm guessing. Do you know about this? I think you mentioned sending him images...but not sure. Rob
  11. I ran out of the left overs so I went and made some more for this side.......long and pressed ready to go.
  12. Spent a bit of time working on the plates......here are some beginning images.
  13. I’m planning on running three sections. Cutting them in in similar fashion as I did with my Great Republic shown here
  14. Well back from North Dakota...I spent a bit working out the plating....I removed the tape and began the work...... I'm using the remainder of what was left over and I will be making more in the next couple of days. Not much time today to work but here are some starter images.
  15. Fantastic job Vlad. She is taking form. Now we’re cooking. You’ll be caught up to me before I get back from North D.
  16. Super job Vlad getting the banding done was wonderful...did you use brass or copper...or something else? Love the topmast stay sheave too. Rob
  17. Moving along nicely.....you know...you just gotta do what you gotta do. Great application without a lathe....good move. Rob
  18. Rich..what you are describing is the topmast jib stay mounting. The stay comes down from the topmast to the bowsprit and goes through the topmast jib sheave(the bowsprit bees)....then back to the base of the bowsprit...where it terminates. What you are seeing is NOT an iron bar....but the stay itself...running along the underside of the bowsprit. Why..you ask? Because the jib stays are not mounted directly to the bowsprit and jibboom......but because of flexure and deflection they need to stretch and flex with the bowsprit and jibboom. A firm but flexible rigging. The royal and sky stays typically come down and go through sheaves in the jibboom and then back toward the martingale and then to adjustable bullnoses/reeving hearts fixed to the hull. Rob
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