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rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Wonderful That Richard McKay book is a must for any serious library. Rob
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- Flying Fish
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I think this product is what I’ll paint the houses with, prior to white highlights. Thanks Rich Rob
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I originally painted my bulwarks a similar pearl color and highlighted with white. The end result was IMV not very flattering. It could be the “pearl” I used was too dark. So I opted to go with a pearl that I imagined to be more of a aesthetic pearl, which is slightly bluefish in shade, Kinda opaque, then I highlighted in white and with blue waterways. I hope you can figure out a combination that works for you. Rob
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Mmmmm. Looks like an average of 1 1/2 degree rake. I knew the Sovereign nearly had vertical masts. I was in error. I’m not home but in Oregon for a funeral, so I’m going from bad memory. Good call. Rob
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Beautiful, just beautiful. Is this the final color you’re settling on? Rob
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I plan the mast out....but will not add them until the deck is furnished out first. Houses and all. I had originally intended to fully build my version. Masts, rigging...the who ball of wax......😁 Are you using the same dye method you used on your CS build......or are you trying something different? Will you be adding the chain plates and deadeyes as well....or just the channels? Rob
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Yeah...I found the angle inclination for the Great Republic....it was published. So I might conclude that the angle could be be similar if nothing comes available. I think it was Sovereign of the Seas that had a true vertical mast step, but I can't be sure. I do know several McKay clippers did. If McKay follows his own practice he might have mimicked some of his other designs, such as Flying fish or Lightning. Thanks for the help and for the homework project. Rob
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Yep....white on top and inside and black on the outside. Thanks for your fine comments....I'm just plugging along. Rob
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Thanks Rich. I beat myself up a bit...don't I? Any way, I'm glad you brought up the mast stepping issue, I'm not quite sure what the deck angle was for each mast. 1 or 2 degrees? Again...thanks. Rob
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Thanks Pat. I don't think you doubted, I think you hadn't opened your mind to other possible ways to do the task, but what you have had experience with. Nothin better then that *ahahah* moment. Your own mantra spells it out quite nicely. *There are many ways to skin a cat*. And I believe that too. Well, it's my mantra too. The details in the weathering as well...she's almost 10 years old by now. She needs to look it and not only does her structures need to look convincing..so does her weathering. Thanks for the fine comments and encouragements...you have been a great support from the beginning. Rob
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Everything is looking smart Vlad...your nameboards are looking amazing. Funny..my nameboards are about half your size. I'm surprised 1/72 is so different in scale to 1/96. One reason I think I prefer 1/96 is that finer details can be *blured*, if you desire...and if you're like me, you prefer to tackle them. Plus, space is at a premium. since you are not masting your model...you have more options for display. but if you did mast her...you'll need an entire wall space to display her. I just don't have that kinda space myself. Your progressing very fast and I'm quite impressed...great job. Rob
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Thanks a lot Tblack. Those are boxes that hold sheets of model transfers and decals
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My oh my …….Vlad. Great work. Love the mods to the ports. Great job on the railing too. You’re clipping along. Fine work. Rob
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Spent a little time working the fore, main and mizzenmast channels and chain plates. Rob
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Thanks Johnny for the fine compliments and encouragement and Advertisement. I appreciate it very much it’s so fun they have people comment and look back at what I’ve done and to be a good encouragement and I’m really blessed thank you very much.
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Thanks Rich. Mistakes abound(sic)...but as a whole, the channels and plates are coming along nicely. The real trick is establishing the correct cant of the plates to the correct angle that will align them with the backstay points on the invisible masts. I temporarily install a mast to scale and then project down....using a string to the channels and then mark out the location of the chain plates bisection to both upper and lower channels. It is crude....but when one compares to the actual ship from photographs...it can easily be determined that even they are not *Perfectly* aligned with the backstays. I feel good. Once they are located, I use a very long drill and drill down through both of them at the correct angle and depth from the hull. Last night I finished up making all the preventer plates for all the chain plates for both sides. I wanted to get them done as a small project, because they are tedious work to do. For the pic I took, I simply made 6 to work out the scale and construction process. Now that, that was figured out, I mass produced them. Tonight (Hopefully), I will finish up the fore mast and if all goes well, finish up the main. This is time consuming small delicate work. Each deadeye needs to be stropped to the plate and installed to the channel. Once each channel/chain plate is finished I will paint and weather them....leaving the deadeye unpainted until the shrouds are installed(Much easier without paint on them and in the tiny holes), then the lanyards and the deadeyes will then get painted. Rob
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Spent a bit of time working on the fore port chain plates 1/2 done
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I suppose I've worked with *Purist* modelers....modelers who are faithful to reproduce with wood and metal and are faithful to the actual practices of real ship building. I guess I'm overly critical of myself because of so many years of critiques by modeling masters. I skip past the formal approach and use less then acceptable techniques so as far as that particular crowd expects. Or maybe I'm so unorthodox in my approach and so ingenious in my applications that the *purist* is unable to comprehend....my, *There is always another way* attitude. Any way.....enough self loathing. These channels and chainplates will be correct aesthetically. Thanks for tolerating my attitude. Rob
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That would be Darby O'Gill's method.....however, as much as I would prefer to do it that way....I've chosen the more difficult, though less imaginative way. And that my friend is a trade secret. Like McKay, I will keep my shady technique to myself....though I will tell you that it includes the use of wire, bending of that wire, glue and paint. Not to mention the preformed deadeyes. I will, however, entertain any observations you may postulate. A *cheesy hack* never divulges his trickery. I'm sure skilled artisans such as Banyan and EdT would never consider the LOW road when calculating their next move in building their magnificent models. Where, as for me, that is a well traveled road. The best part is, it all turns out well. The prince wins the hand of the fair young maiden and no one is the wiser. Rob(there is a reason someone invented smoke and mirrors)
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Being so small I could not scrape them with my grooving tool, so I had to hand cut them with a cut-off disc. Keeping the cut straight was the tedious part. Rob
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Here are a couple of images of the gore lines and the transition from one group to another. There are three groups of plates on my Glory of the Seas
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You got me all figured out Rich. Now can you tell me how I’m going to do that? Heeheehee Rob
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Well Pat, I looked at these from several angles. Typically the kit supplied chain plates are laser cut and include mounting plates and nails. You would put on the channel, cut in a groove for the plate and then place a decorative trim to hide the work. Well I’m going a different direction. I’m going to add them like I did on the Great Republic but by drilling holes for the “round” chain plates to pass through. It will all come together, you’ll see. I’ll do the entire port side first, then jump over to the starboard.
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I’m not sure, but it is generally based upon the hull design. It’s curves and depth of hull.
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