rwiederrich
-
Posts
5,083 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by rwiederrich
-
One last thing Keith...Dependent on the exact location of the jackstays(sometimes they were farther forward on the yard then directly on top), the stunsail boom irons would have been on top making them far from interfering with sail function....and if the jackstays were on top the boom irons would have been slightly forward...again keeping them far away from the jackstays and sails. From photographs, it appears your booms are slightly on top if not forward...making the jackstays forward or aft of them. Just account for them when you decide where you want to place your booms...or in your case(Now that your jackstays are placed), adjust the booms, forward or aft. Sall goood. Rob
-
I was referencing the dock side image. One thing may be noted: the Tennessee was a steamer and it isn’t beyond comprehension to gather she stowed her sails and stun sail booms in unregulater fashion. And if indeed her booms were forward......the boom irons would have held the boom far away from the jackstays.....hence the sails
-
Keith. If you notice the irons for the stunsails are above the jack stays. Not interfering with the sail. In your ship image the stunsail boom is above the jackstay.
-
I spent some time reducing the poop house stanchions a bit and refining its contours. Still at this scale it is tedious work. Rob
- 3,560 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- clipper
- hull model
- (and 2 more)
-
Rick....thank you for following along....I appreciate your contributions. I tend to agree about the light grey/pearl. In many pictures of Glory..you can see the highlights and augmented grey shades that trim her houses and railings/gunwales. I'm thinking we are on the same track. Rob
-
Thanks Rich. Yes...I've seen those(without the hair of course). Good possibility for sure.....I'll look into it. Rob
-
Keith...the typical practice was to either(there were two of them), Mount the stunsail spar on top of the yard or hang it from under the yard. It never was to interfere with the action of sail furling and or function of the sail. Sails were bent to the jackstay which was typically mounted on the top of the yard. Stunsails booms were stored in their run-in positions (Over the yard...or under) and were run-out..when light to moderate breezes required their use. Stunsails have been used on ships for centuries and up to and exceeding the time period you are modeling...they have changed little from their inception. My Great Republic model modeled them under the yards..where they hung out of the way, when not in use. Dependent on the rigging and any interference they may have induced upon the sheets....I think what ever was typical for the model of vessel you are building...you would be safe to bet it is correct.
-
Wonderful work Druxey. Adhering to the prototype is fun when you have a clean clear example to follow. Nice clean work...great little boat. Rob
- 433 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- open boat
- small boat
- (and 1 more)
-
Yeah...she is structurally sound and beautiful to behold....too bad color imaging wasn't around then. Rob
-
I'm now considering the *Era* I want to build her in....at what stage of her modifications do I want to namely focus on...and I'm thinking modeling her after her 1877 San Francisco bay dock image. So many things that are on her that are not present on later year images and so many items are excluded on her that she retains in later images. Just a short list......It is clear she had painted stanchions...and the helm house has been extended. She has stars on the ends of her catheads(be they painted or a fashioned plate...I do not know). One intriguing item is the iron support bars connecting her naval hood to her bow. Not quite sure when that was added..but she does not have them in the 1877 image. Plus they relocated her name board to make room for its installation. This can easily be seen from comparing her 1877 image with the recent installed image of her bow close-up at dock in Tacoma. In the 1877 image she shows her additional 2 backstays added aft of her Fore/main channels/chain plates....in addition she had her spreaders removed to accommodate this change. In her fitting out image at McKay's yard you can clearly see the spreaders. I have yet to determine if her boys cabin and animal/chicken house had been added by the 1877 image....I'll research this fully. You can clearly see her highlighted constructed lower masts. I think the 1877 image is the best one of Glory in her finest...the peek of her career physically. IMV
-
Tiny little buggers...... After looking at my first model of Glory of the Seas and concluding that the generic after market stanchions were just not right....I made it my goal to replicate the real ones as best as I could. At the time of my first build I didn't go that far in the capture of the true design and scale of the house and aft stanchions.....I just used what was available. Thanks again, for your fine comments and encouragement. Rob
-
Now that's an idea.....I never thought about. Making many cutters from so many blade stock. Cool idea Bob. I'll stow that idea away for another day...since I'm finished with the stanchion project. In retrospect, I made these all by hand...since the numbers where not too staggering. Plus cutting and manipulation by hand was faster then if I had done this on my lather. I could *feel* the cut and compensate for any issues with the wood grain...where as, on the lathe it is far less forgiving to such delicacies. As usual...thanks for the great advice. Rob
- 3,560 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- clipper
- hull model
- (and 2 more)
-
And the collection of all........ It took me about 3 hours to make all of these...to include fabrication of the tooling(Cutter and reducer) prior to making them. Rob
- 3,560 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- clipper
- hull model
- (and 2 more)
-
I measured to make sure they were the correct height. As the other stanchions...they are slightly bulkier then the prototype..but that is normal what one wants to prevent a fragile disaster from happening. Still they are a good representation of the originals.
- 3,560 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- clipper
- hull model
- (and 2 more)
-
Next is an image of one stanchion still on its dowel.....note the reduced areas from the original dowel. I cut off the excess top and bottom.
-
Spent some time today fashioning all the stanchions for the poop cabin rail. I first stripped the dowel stock I used for the aft rail stanchions, by making a dowel reducing draw plate....that I ran the dowel through after I cut them in 1" lengths..put them in my dental handpiece and and ran them first through the sizer...then I went quickly to the handmade scribe/cutter I made for this purpose(Like the other one for the other stanchions). Originally the dowel was too big and the joints broke...but once I reduced the dowel...it worked fantastic. Here is the days work. First the finished cabin stanchion in comparison to the fantail stanchion. A third of those will still need to be modified by way of cutting their head and feet to allow the proper cant to be achieved....then the rest will follow along vertically around the stern. Note the height and size difference....? Rob
-
Very interesting story and images. Looks like they removed most of her canary equipement to make room for cold storage. Very interesting indeed......She sure held up to all the mods she acquired over all the years. Rob
-
I read this somewhere else I believe. I might do a bit more research concerning this if it can be found. It might look super. Remember she also have varnished main masts with white recesses and red bands...... What an eye catcher.... Rob
-
Interesting note Rich...I asked Mike about Glory's colors and he tells me of a gentleman who was on Glory as a youngster and played on her while she was being built and was there when she was burned. He built a model of her in the late 20's or 30's....and claims she had blue waterways and was painted pearl white on her houses and gunwales. I viewed his model at Mystic and he built a good model, however she is not to scale and he depicts her with only a single skylight fore the mizzen mast? This is evidence that even first hand recollections cannot always be accepted as accurate. Rob
-
Wonderful job...Space was a premium on clippers(well most ships), However, your example is stunning. I like the cut-aways in the walls and floor..very artistic. Rob
- 257 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- young america
- Finished
- (and 1 more)
-
The poop stanchions need to be cantered on the ends to accommodate the inclination of them....so leaving them a bit long is to provide material to be removed. My assessment is the poop stanchions are 2ft. Rob
-
I will fashion carriage house stanchions separately from the poop stanchions. The ones I made are more to the poop stanchions anyway. I'll make some thinner stock...or small diameter wood and then make another cutter to make the taller thinner stanchions needed for that application. They'll be like slivers...... Rob
- 3,560 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- clipper
- hull model
- (and 2 more)
-
Great rendering Rich. The poop rails stanchions look to be around 2ft in length and the Carriage house or poop house stanchions appear to be about 30" long. Because the poop rails are resting on top of the shallow stern rail..elevating the entire finished railing system...where as the poop house rail is probably just as tall....but requires taller stanchions. I always wondered why the railing systems around her decks and houses always appeared to me to be quite short. I assume the strengthening structures and math only allowed a certain height when using wood alone as your structures. Short is stronger. Railing that catch you at just above mid thigh seams a bit unsafe to me. As evidenced by this picture with the man hunched down to the rail.
- 3,560 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- clipper
- hull model
- (and 2 more)
-
Thanks Vlad. I'm used to working in tiny scales....and if I can get as much of the tedious work out of the way first...it makes the rest go faster. Waiting is great time to do these kinds of jobs. Rob
-
I plan on trying more ideas. The tool dulls even cutting wood and to sharpen it changes its form. Uniformity is key. Thanks for you advice.
Our Emblem ®
