Paul Jarman
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Everything posted by Paul Jarman
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Slipway done. Could make the cross pieces lighter in colour. But I'm happy with it as it is at present. Displays the model a lot better than on pedestals in my opinion. Also working on painting and detailing the photo etch parts that will replace the coloured card.
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Starting to make a slipway to display the model. I brought a floating shelf which was cheaper than buying a pine board. Bit thick but I can use it either as a shelf or ideally for a display case. I have removed the cutwater strip from the bottom of the hull so the hull will rest flat on the strips rather then cutting a groove into them and hoping it would run level with the bottom of the hull. This is more complicated than building the actual model. I figured I would just need to cut out the strips and glue them to the board. Not that simple. Each one has to be the correct size for the hull shape. And each one needs to be central on the board.
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About to start building the A deck cabin walls. Would have been nice if the instructions had been a bit clearer. Easy option is to add the coloured card. But I will be using the photo etch from Mini Brass instead. Will take a bit longer to paint in the details of the windows, but will look a lot better. Rather then cutting out all the walls for the deck I will build this in stages so I don't get in a muddle with so many pieces to add.
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I do like making work for myself with this kit. The more I kept looking at the hull the more I didn't like the port holes being out of scale. Trying to represent glass in the port holes is difficult at this scale. The glass was not level with the hull as I had it. It was receded into the port hole. I might be able to do something with the larger port holes but will leave the small diameter ones open. So I made the decision to strip the paint off and fill the holes in. Now that I have returned them to the 1.2mm below and 1.5mm above scale they look better and as they should be. Just a bit of tidying up and the hull will be completed and I will stop making alterations to it.
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As I dug out the flanges it caused around 30 of them to remove a bit of the wood from the port hole where they where glued. This has meant I've had to drill them out a bit larger diameter then they should be. 1.5mm instead of 1.2mm. It left me with the choice of having them slightly out of scale or striping the paint off above the waterline and filling them in and redrilling them to the correct scale. Which would have been a big ask. I tried mixing colour with the Kristal Klear but it didn't work out. So I have filled the port holes with straight Kristal Klear. And that has turned out very good and gives the effect of the port holes having glass in them. They look white in the photos, but they are actually clear and look quite good. That means l can put up with them being slightly out of scale.
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All the flanges removed from one side. Must admit I was a bit apprehensive on how it would look without them. But it looks a lot better. More in keeping with the way the hull should look. The line of port holes at the top are filled in with a mix of kristal klear and a blue/grey mix to represent the glass. Once dry it shouldn't look so pronounced. If it doesn't work I can push it out and paint over it. As always the photos don't really do it justice. It looks far better looking at it Normally. The hull above the waterline now looks a lot smoother. Just have do the same on the other side now. Should never have used the flanges in the first place. But we learn from our mistakes in this hobby. And at least it is easy to correct any little mishaps. I don't plan to use the pedestals that come with the kit to mount it. I will build a slipway for it, which should work better as a display base.
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Decided on a fairly major change to the hull. Have decided to remove all the port hole flanges so they look as they should. The two pictures show how much it will change the appearance of the hull. Should look more like the real thing.
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Hull painted and propellers added. The bottom colour is based on the colour used by Peter Davies -Garner from the modelmakers manual. it is RAL 3016 and is Coral Red. I could add a slightly darker red, but this looks quite good. I have started to glaze the smaller port holes with Kristal Klear. Although you can't see it once it is dry. I might add some blue to it and see if it will show up more. But not sure if I want blue port holes. just a few areas to touch up and then the puppet details to add. the yellow strip around the hull is the most frustrating part of this model. Most of it is painted free hand.
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Hull painted and propellers added. The bottom colour is based on the colour used by Peter Davies -Garner from the modelmakers manual. it is RAL 3016 and is Coral Red. I could add a slightly darker red, but this looks quite good. I have started to glaze the smaller port holes with Kristal Klear. Although you can't see it once it is dry. I might add some blue to it and see if it will show up more. But not sure if I want blue port holes. just a few areas to touch up and then the upper details to add. the yellow strip around the hull is the most frustrating part of this model. Most of it is painted free hand.
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First coat of undercoat. Don't see the point of building all the decks and funnels before painting. So will paint it before The next stage. The added photo etch stands out well. Good job I looked ahead of I would have added the cutwater strip after undercoating which would have made gluing harder than on bare wood. It doesn't actually look all wavey when seen normally. Photos never do these things justice. The smaller port holes look just fine.
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Don't really want to waste 900+ port hole flanges. Also want the port holes to look as they should. I have decided to add them and file/sand them down. Adds a huge amount of extra work but they will file down as close to the level of the hull as possible. They are not noticeable when looking along the side of the hull. On the plus side they make the port holes stand out a lot better and once painted will not be to noticeable. And more importantly they can be seen from a distance. And the hull will look neater. Now just got to add them all and start reducing them down. Then all the photo etch doors and bits to add. You have to think a few steps ahead with this kit as the instructions have the photo etch added after painting. The propeller blades are just held on with blue tac so I could get the orientation correct. I think they look alright.
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Port holes drilled out on one side. Still a fair not of work to do on tidying up the hull. Some sanding down and filling to do. Have to make a decision on the flanges. I have painted one small area as a test. Even close up they disappear. Would probably get away with leaving the top line as is. But then it would look silly having the smaller diameter ones flanged. The trouble is, because of the scale it looks like the hull has wood worm in it. And anyone seeing the final model displayed would question what would appear to be the absence of port holes. So I will almost certainly use the flanges so that all that hard work can be seen.
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Start of the port holes. The flanges are not that bad. They sit very close to the hull. Viewing the model from a few feet away I can see the port holes with flanges. Those without disappear. Will probably use them for the effect.
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All profiles done. Just got to drill out 900+ port holes. Nearly made a bit of a mistake. I had not put the profile guides in the same place as the first side I did. If I had glued them on they would have been slightly out. Now after a bit of measuring each side is as close to identical as possible. Just got to decide whether to add the port hole flanges. I know that the port holes where flat on the hull. But at this scale they will be fairly small in diameter and may become invisible once the hull is painted. With over 900 being drilled out it would be a shame not to see the work that has gone into it. Therefore I may use artistic licence and add them for the effect. Maybe sand them down a bit so they are not so pronounced. But so that you can tell there are port holes on the hull. It is a lot neater then the photos make it look. Once all the port holes are drilled out and the paper removed and the hull is sanded and maybe filled in a few areas it should look alright.
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Profiles complete on one side. Stern needs a bit of work but should be ok once sanded. Would have have been far better if the plan sheet had been to scale rather than half scale. Not a brilliant way to do this. Would have been so much better with laser cut parts. Not to bad though, once all the port holes are drilled out and it is tidied up it should look alright. If I had followed the instructions to the letter the anchor would have overlapped the bow. I used the book Titanic in pictures to get an idea of where the port holes should be. There are some very good photos of her hull and port holes. Certain port holes line up with areas above especially around the well decks. So hopefully they are looking more like they should.
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First planking complete. Ignore the stern still needs a bit of sanding and filling to get it right. The hull has come out well considering how it could have looked had I built it straight out of the box. Now onto the hull profiles. And all the port holes to be drilled out.
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Brilliant job working at that scale. I Would find it far to frustrating putting that ammount of detail into the build. Oh,and I remember the Beatles, and used to go clubbing at the Cavern Club in Liverpool. Keep up the good work,looking forward to seeing your completed model.
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- Golden Hinde
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Looking for suggestions for a good pin pusher
Paul Jarman replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I personally Don't like pin pushers. I have used them before and ended up with to many split planks and bent pins. Its a bit long winded, and adds a bit of time to the job. But I use a drill slightly smaller than the pin and then use a toffee hammer to insert the pin. Makes for a much neater job than pushing pins in. Paul -
I only use CA glue in areas like the bow and stern where the wood tends to have to much spring in it. And even then as little as I possibly can. For gluing the planks to the bulkheads I personaly use Aliphactic wood glue. I find this gives a stronger bond than normal wood glue. Paul
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Starting the first planking. Considering the work that had to be done on the bulkheads, it is looking OK.
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You have been given plenty of good advice. I personly find plank benders to much trouble to use. My method involves using cups,glasses and jars. Anything with an open rim will do. I Don't use boiling water as I find it can make the wood a bit too soft. I just use water from the hot tap. Around 40 minutes usually makes the wood pliable enough to bend. I then clamp the plank around the rim and leave it overnight. I prpare around 12 planks at a time. Next day the planks are ready for use and I prepare the next 12 Which are usually ready for use by the time I have finished pinning the first lot to the bulkheds. Paul
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I can now take photos with the camera and transfer then to the tablet to upload. Not as good as using a PC. But it will do until I can afford a new PC. These are the photo Etched Windows that replace the coloured card that comes with the kit. Very small and time consuming to paint,especially with my shaky hands. I painted the background with a blue mix. Looks better when seen with the naked eye as you don't see the imperfections the camera shows.
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Taken on Amazon Fire. Still working on it.
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