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Paul Jarman
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Everything posted by Paul Jarman
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My condolences to his family and friends. RIP Jim. -
Excellent work so far. You do of course realize that once you have finished adding all these authentic details you are going to have to add the Titanic rivet pattern. Only around a million rivets.
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Looking good,I will follow along. I built the older version of this a few years ago.Looks like it has been improved quite a bit.
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- Sanson
- Artesania Latina
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Started adding the columns. To say this is a pain in the you know what is an understatement. 14 done around another 70 to do. Luckily one of the planks used later on in the build is the perfect size to get the measurements right.
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Hi, No still working on the hull. Have started adding all the columns along the bullwarks. Probably another year or so before I finish. Shame you couldn't get the mini brass photo etch, it does improve the model a lot. What stage are you up to? Could you post some pictures, or even better start a build log. How did you get on with the alterations to the bulk heads? Paul
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Bulwarks glued in place. I didn't think 80 stages ahead. I usually think at least 10-20 stages ahead knowing there may be problems.Once they where in place there was a gap along the first one above the yellow line. Not much of a gap,but big enough to bug me as I knew it was there. A cocktail stick and some very careful filling and it looks OK. Just need to do a bit of tidying up and repainting and it should look good.
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Bulwarks held loosely in place and ready to be fitted. The instructions call for the wooden strip that the photo etch parts are glued onto to be painted black or dark blue to show the depth of the port holes. I have found they look better being drilled out. Just have to add the 78 columns once they are fitted in place.
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The only known colour photo of Olympic. Gives a decent idea of what White Star Buff looked like.
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Funnels painted and ready for detailing. The representation of White Star Buff is RAL 1001 which is beige. Which is Peter Davies- Garner's suggested colour in the model makers manual. I have used a Humbrol sand undercoat which gives them a slight yellow colour without being too bright a yellow. They look far better when seen with the naked eye.
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One of the best kits for accuracy and detail is the Amati 1/250 kit. A bit over 3 feet long.Once you except the 5-6 bulkheads that need altering and you replace the colored card and some of the plastic parts with photo etch it builds into a nice model. If you are going with plastic then the Trumpeter kit is the best kit to go with. Paul
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Replacement photo etch windows completed. So much better the the coloured card. Glue the deck in place then onto the funnels.
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Looking good. I built this same model a few years ago. Only difference is I painted mine.
- 118 replies
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- sanson
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First coat of paint on photo etch windows. This will improve the look of the model so much better then using the coloured card That comes with the kit.
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Slipway done. Could make the cross pieces lighter in colour. But I'm happy with it as it is at present. Displays the model a lot better than on pedestals in my opinion. Also working on painting and detailing the photo etch parts that will replace the coloured card.
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Starting to make a slipway to display the model. I brought a floating shelf which was cheaper than buying a pine board. Bit thick but I can use it either as a shelf or ideally for a display case. I have removed the cutwater strip from the bottom of the hull so the hull will rest flat on the strips rather then cutting a groove into them and hoping it would run level with the bottom of the hull. This is more complicated than building the actual model. I figured I would just need to cut out the strips and glue them to the board. Not that simple. Each one has to be the correct size for the hull shape. And each one needs to be central on the board.
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About to start building the A deck cabin walls. Would have been nice if the instructions had been a bit clearer. Easy option is to add the coloured card. But I will be using the photo etch from Mini Brass instead. Will take a bit longer to paint in the details of the windows, but will look a lot better. Rather then cutting out all the walls for the deck I will build this in stages so I don't get in a muddle with so many pieces to add.
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I do like making work for myself with this kit. The more I kept looking at the hull the more I didn't like the port holes being out of scale. Trying to represent glass in the port holes is difficult at this scale. The glass was not level with the hull as I had it. It was receded into the port hole. I might be able to do something with the larger port holes but will leave the small diameter ones open. So I made the decision to strip the paint off and fill the holes in. Now that I have returned them to the 1.2mm below and 1.5mm above scale they look better and as they should be. Just a bit of tidying up and the hull will be completed and I will stop making alterations to it.
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As I dug out the flanges it caused around 30 of them to remove a bit of the wood from the port hole where they where glued. This has meant I've had to drill them out a bit larger diameter then they should be. 1.5mm instead of 1.2mm. It left me with the choice of having them slightly out of scale or striping the paint off above the waterline and filling them in and redrilling them to the correct scale. Which would have been a big ask. I tried mixing colour with the Kristal Klear but it didn't work out. So I have filled the port holes with straight Kristal Klear. And that has turned out very good and gives the effect of the port holes having glass in them. They look white in the photos, but they are actually clear and look quite good. That means l can put up with them being slightly out of scale.
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All the flanges removed from one side. Must admit I was a bit apprehensive on how it would look without them. But it looks a lot better. More in keeping with the way the hull should look. The line of port holes at the top are filled in with a mix of kristal klear and a blue/grey mix to represent the glass. Once dry it shouldn't look so pronounced. If it doesn't work I can push it out and paint over it. As always the photos don't really do it justice. It looks far better looking at it Normally. The hull above the waterline now looks a lot smoother. Just have do the same on the other side now. Should never have used the flanges in the first place. But we learn from our mistakes in this hobby. And at least it is easy to correct any little mishaps. I don't plan to use the pedestals that come with the kit to mount it. I will build a slipway for it, which should work better as a display base.
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Decided on a fairly major change to the hull. Have decided to remove all the port hole flanges so they look as they should. The two pictures show how much it will change the appearance of the hull. Should look more like the real thing.
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Hull painted and propellers added. The bottom colour is based on the colour used by Peter Davies -Garner from the modelmakers manual. it is RAL 3016 and is Coral Red. I could add a slightly darker red, but this looks quite good. I have started to glaze the smaller port holes with Kristal Klear. Although you can't see it once it is dry. I might add some blue to it and see if it will show up more. But not sure if I want blue port holes. just a few areas to touch up and then the puppet details to add. the yellow strip around the hull is the most frustrating part of this model. Most of it is painted free hand.
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Hull painted and propellers added. The bottom colour is based on the colour used by Peter Davies -Garner from the modelmakers manual. it is RAL 3016 and is Coral Red. I could add a slightly darker red, but this looks quite good. I have started to glaze the smaller port holes with Kristal Klear. Although you can't see it once it is dry. I might add some blue to it and see if it will show up more. But not sure if I want blue port holes. just a few areas to touch up and then the upper details to add. the yellow strip around the hull is the most frustrating part of this model. Most of it is painted free hand.
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First coat of undercoat. Don't see the point of building all the decks and funnels before painting. So will paint it before The next stage. The added photo etch stands out well. Good job I looked ahead of I would have added the cutwater strip after undercoating which would have made gluing harder than on bare wood. It doesn't actually look all wavey when seen normally. Photos never do these things justice. The smaller port holes look just fine.
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Don't really want to waste 900+ port hole flanges. Also want the port holes to look as they should. I have decided to add them and file/sand them down. Adds a huge amount of extra work but they will file down as close to the level of the hull as possible. They are not noticeable when looking along the side of the hull. On the plus side they make the port holes stand out a lot better and once painted will not be to noticeable. And more importantly they can be seen from a distance. And the hull will look neater. Now just got to add them all and start reducing them down. Then all the photo etch doors and bits to add. You have to think a few steps ahead with this kit as the instructions have the photo etch added after painting. The propeller blades are just held on with blue tac so I could get the orientation correct. I think they look alright.
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