Paul Jarman
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Everything posted by Paul Jarman
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Silly me, I Hadn't coniderered that. Good advice I will check on that. Paul
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I'm using Chrome. I've been playing around with all the various settings but nothing. I've even saved the pictures to a files named MSW,msw and model ship world upper and lower case but that does not work either. I can only think that my phone has a fault on it stopping it sending pictures. Although I am able to send pictures to Facebook no problem. Paul
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I just tried to add a piture from my PS4 and get the message cannot use this feature. I think this may be a browser issue. On my mobile a screen pops up for a second then disappears. I have examined every feature on the phone to see if I had something turned off but can find nothing wrong. It is a cheap £54 Android so have always thought this was the problem. Wouldn't need an app would I? Good point with the tablet. Might have to wait untill summer when my bills drop down substantialy and try and get a cheap PC. Thanks for all the replies and information everyone. Paul
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Thanks for the quick response. I'm not insulted so don't worry. Actually untill I retired I've always worked with computers.I know my way round a PC quite well. I just don't use one that much. Looking at Laptops or a Tablet seemed like a good investment because of some of the advantages they have over a PC.. But didn't want to buy one if I couldn't upload pictures. When I try with the PS4 I get a message saying cannot use this feature. And my mobile will not upload at all. I was just hoping someone had experience of using a laptop or tablet to upload pictures so I could put my mind at rest on their use for uploading pictures.The problem at the moment is obviously cost. And I can pick up a tablet fairly cheaply. Paul
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Not sure if this is the right place for this. Feel free to move it if not. I am writing this on my PS4 and can'tupload pictures from it. I also can't upload from my sim only mobile.Same problem with my Xbox. Unfortunately my PC has packed up so need a new one.I only usue the PC occasionly for shopping and uploading pictures to here. I was looking at ivesting in a laptop or a Tablet. Not being familiar with a laptop or a tablet can I upload pictures to here with either one of these. Thanks for any help anyone can offer. Paul
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I completed this kit a while back.It builds into a very nice model. I obviously had the version with instructions. Unfortunately I no longer have them. But at least you can download them. Unfortunately a lot of kits are going that way. Both wooden and plastic. Which spoils it for anyone buying a kit who does not have access to a PC or smart phone. I painted my model rather than leaving it with bare wood. What you have done so far looks good. Will follow your log with interest. -
Well deck details and cabins under bow and stern deck. Mostly went together OK. Ignore the bow deck, have not clamped it down yet. The cabin walls how they would look with the coloured card. And the end result using the Mini Brass PE. Looks a lot better. I am using this web site for the colour references: Titanic Paint and Color Reference (archive.org) Also using RMS Titanic: A model makers manual by Peter Davies-Garner. And the book Titanic in Photographs by various authors. Paul
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Next set of PE from Mini Brass. I now have replacement PE for the plastic benches, plastic steps and ladders, extra railings and replacements for the ships boat covers instead of needing to cut out said covers from the sheet of plywood. Only the two sets of PE to replace the longitudinals instead of the flimsy laser cut ones and I have all the upgrades. Just a case now of cleaning all that PE.
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you should have the photo album, plans and the building instructions with the parts list on the back. there are a total of 94 written steps most of which refer to the photo album and the plans. You should have these instructions.
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Decal Solution Questions
Paul Jarman replied to hof00's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have never used Mark fit so don't know how good it is. Personally I use Micro Sol and Micro Set for decals. Once dry it makes the decal appear to have been painted onto the surface. It is a bit more expensive, but I would highly recommend it. Paul. -
Hi les, welcome to MSW. That's a nice job for a first time build. I have similar problems with these eyelets. You can buy drill sets on Amazon that go down that small and even smaller. I drill the hole slightly smaller then needed. I then use CA glue to hold the eyelet in place. I use a fine needle and apply a tiny ammount of glue to the hole. Or I apply a thin coat of glue to the eyelet and once it is pushed in that works fine with either method. The only problem I've had are the driil bits are so fragile at such a small size. I've lost count of how many I have bent out of shape applying to much pressue when drilling the holes. You might also want to consider starting a build log. You will find that you will get lots of good advice with any questions you may have. Paul
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I know,and I did serously think about adding them from inside but soon realized it would be to cramped to manage it. I then considered filing them flat,but that would take an age as well. I could leave them out for better realism,but that would seem like a waste. Paul
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Thanks Richardhd, Yes it was a subscription kit,but not sure myself if it was based on the subscription or not. It is a high quality kit. Such a shame Amati never corrected the bulkhead issue. The only other parts that let it down are the plastic lifeboats and benches. But the benches can be replaced with PE and there is PE for the lifeboat covers and rails. Paul.
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Had time to look through it all and compare it to the coloured card. And it dosen't replace all of the card only the main areas on the boat decks. So will still have to use some of the card.
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Thanks Gregg, Looks like a good model you have there. I have seen built logs for it on You Tube. Look forward to seeing you start a build log when you get started. This is the first set of PE that replaces all the coloured card and some of the other details. There is still a fair bit more to buy yet. This will of course add a lot more work to the kit. But will look a lot better then the card. Only downside to this is that there no instructions or code numbers to indicate what replaces what. Hopefully wont be to hard to work out. also some of the decks planked. Did consider making them a bit darker, but I like the way they look.
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Frames corrected. Photos don't do them justice. still look a bit out here and there. Although the alterations do line up with the templates. Maybe they will look better once they are glued in place and the straighteners are in place along with the decks.
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Looks like It's me next. I agree stick with the yellow ochre. The problem I see with the flesh Colour is that I have never seen a painting of Victory in anything other than yellow ochre. Surely all the artists of the time would be painting her true to life as they saw her. I am of the opinion that the flesh colour that was discovered was possibly an undercoat or the original Colour she was going to be painted untill someone realised how silly it would look. That PE looks very good quality. I will be following your build. I was building this kit myself some years ago. But have to admit that the instructions beat me and I gave up on it. Paul
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Thanks, just a shame Amati have never fixed the problem. The instructions call for a lot of the decks and fittings to be put in place before planking. But I might plank the hull before doing the decks. Paul
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Bulkhead 8 extended. Sanded down with the Dremel and covered with wood-filler for extra strength. not bothered about how untidy the sanding is it wont show once planked. 7 started. Looks like I will be able to make the correct alterations to the 6 needing to be altered. Bulkhead 8 now runs neatly in line with 9 give or take a few areas. I will do some more altering once I start the planking.
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Sorry about, they do quite a bit of PE for various scales but I didn't check to see if they had 1/300. But the card parts you have in your kit look way better than the Amati set.. They look to be made with self adhesive. Have you checked out the 36 part log on YouTube? Your kit looks very good and will make fine model. Paul
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Looks to be a very nice kit. I am currently building the Amati version. Will follow along with interest. I see that Occre are using the same Colour card for some of the detailing as Amati. I can replace all of mine with PE from Minibrass. You might want to consider doing the same if there are upgrades available. Good luck and enjoy building this version of this iconic ship. Paul
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The bulkheads and keel dry fitted. it is now fairly obvious how far out bulkheads 3-8 actually are. I don't have the tools or the skills to build new bulkheads. I do however have plenty of spare planks from unfinished kits. I should be able to build the bulkheads to their correct size by gluing strips along the edges and so build them to the correct size. All the strips have been cut out and trimmed ready for the second planking. Real shame that Amati allowed this to happen and never corrected it. At the very least they could have recut the bulkheads to the correct size and offered them to builders of this kit.
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Next project is the Amati Titanic. This is a museum quality model. The kit is very good quality. Will build into a very nice model of the Titanic. The instructions are very good. There is an 40 page colour booklet to go with the 10 pages of written instructions, which are very extensive. Plus there are 8 plan sheets. The down sides are the way the second planking of the hull needs to be cut from two sheets of ply using paper templets. The colour card cut outs to represent the windows and doors on the various cabin parts. Also the plastic benches are a let down. I will however replace all the card and benches with photo etch from Minibrass. I will start the build by cutting all the second planking parts out. I will then plank the decks before starting to put the kit together. I am unsure with the discrepancy with the 6 bulkheads. I have the template, but when I lay the bulkheads on it they are to small if I increase the size and to large a fit if I decrease the size. Will have to put them in place loose and see how the first planking sits on them. Have started by cutting the second planking out.
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Brilliant news, Welcome to MSW AL. Paul
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It is a matter of choice as John says,and I have debated the same question myself. It also depends how steady your hands are. I have shaky hands when I try to do fiddly bits and find it very hard to tie the rigging on. But I would also like to build a model of HMS Victory or any other sailing ship. Therefore rather than miss out on building a nice model of a sailing vessel I personaly would build with mast stumps. Paul
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