Jim Rogers

Good Morning -
Just back home after a week away for a family wedding in British Columbia and we even managed to avoid all the smoke! We were in the famous Okanagan Valley which is stunningly beautiful, but I understand that even there the air quality had been poor due to smoke for much of the summer. Nothing but clear sunny skies for us though.
 
Here is an update of my progress just before I left last week. I had been working on the bulwarks.
 
The waterway is fairly easy to bevel and install, but it has an unusual profile at the bow where it meets the ceiling planks. It's not completely clear from the plans how this is achieved, but I think I interpreted it correctly as the ceiling planks ended up blending in just fine.

 
The start of the bow framing.

 
Here is the bow framing complete. It's a bit tricky as it spays outward, but actually easier than I have found on some other models because the laser cut parts fit very well.
 

 
The bulwarks is planked only at the bow on this ship and this requires spiling which is something I have never done before. You can see the cardboard template I've made. The only way I could manage this was through trial and error until I finally got one that fit the space more or less correctly. The planks up to the top of the template are thicker than the ones above it. The plans indicate to use 3/64" stock for the lower planks and 1/32" stock for the upper planks. I don't have 3/64", so I applied two layers of 1/32" for the bottom and a single layer of 1/32" for the upper planks. I opted to apply each section as one piece and then I will indicate individual planks by scribing them.
 

 
Here's the template for the upper set. The lower planking blends into the waterway pretty much as I think it's supposed to.
 

 
The port side framing is in place and you can see where I've quickly drawn on planks at the bow just to get the idea of how it will look. In actuality very little of this shows as the anchor deck covers much of it. I was nevertheless happy to have the opportunity to try my hand at spiling and the fact that it will not be front and centre on the finished model is a bonus!
 

 
Here the framing is finished and ready for planking.
 

 
One little area that caused my more trouble than I thought it ought to was the upper rail as it rises at the bow. It takes a very steep rise at about the point where the planking ends. I had a lot trouble making this a smooth transition; I did it over a couple of times because I kept getting a sharp angle at the transition point, but finally I managed it. The next piece that goes on is called the log rail and that plank lays on its edge. As soon as I was able to lay it on the rail without a gap at the transition point I was satisfied.
 
I've just started some upper planking and one little problem has become apparent. The plans call for a certain size stock for the top rail and the kit provided stock was either just under or just over that size (I can't remember the actual dimensions just at the moment.) I opted for the undersized one but should have chosen the oversized one. I spaced the rail carefully on the inside, but as you can see the rail is flush with the outer planning with no lip. Rather than pull the rail off, I've decided to sand it smooth with the planking and then add a 1/32" strip along its outside edge. I think that will work just fine and will make it easy to get a consistent depth of lip. Already I can see that I am going to have a bit of similar trouble with the planksheer, which also protrudes and I expect that I will be sanding it smooth and adding a small strip to it as well. I noticed in John's build log (charleswmorganmodel.com) that he had this problem with the planksheer as well and used that fix.
 
So that's where I'm at right now. I'm spending the day recovering from the effects of air travel (I hate it) and will be soon back in my shop.
David

I pour mine in a plastic container with a lid and use it over and over and over. No worries

Eugene the Phoenix I purchased through Model Expo has the instructions in English but no English name plate.

I pour mine in a plastic container with a lid and use it over and over and over. No worries

Trig,
I keep it separate so not to contaminate the "new" stuff.  I also do what Jim says..  use it over and over until it stops working.

I pour mine in a plastic container with a lid and use it over and over and over. No worries

Eugene the Phoenix I purchased through Model Expo has the instructions in English but no English name plate.

Eugene the Phoenix I purchased through Model Expo has the instructions in English but no English name plate.

On my build list. 
 
Greenstone would it it be possible to add a nameplate in English to your kits?

On my build list. 
 
Greenstone would it it be possible to add a nameplate in English to your kits?

On my build list. 
 
Greenstone would it it be possible to add a nameplate in English to your kits?

Here it is!
The first BOX of the new our kit "Tender AVOS".

Thanks Guys for your comments and likes. much appreciated. 🙂
@ Dave - I'm not averse to a bit of scratch building but if one of Chuck's mini marvels will do the job I am more than happy to go with that; I do have the set.
                 Thanks for the heads up on the yard dimensions, not sure yet if I am going to fully rig her (space issues) but that decision is a way off yet.
@ Martin - I do have steady hands, it's the eye sight that's my issue, but with this sort of item gentle hands are certainly required.
 
Post 38
A check around the exterior hull.
The wale has again been recoated using Admiralty Metal Black, hopefully for the last time.

2454

2458

2459
A very light sanding to the hull followed, and a further coat of wipe-on poly applied.

2448
The Horse shoe and Keel plates were added to complete my action on the outer hull for the present.

2450
Still having thoughts about the counter and whether to paint it.
The older I get the more  indecisive I seem to get! 🙄
I wonder how the real Cheerful would have been painted. Built post Trafalgar with the war grinding on, navy under pressure with patrol and blockade duties, and now in an era of austerity where elaborate decoration had given way to plain paintwork .
By 1780 the 'approved' colour for British Naval ships was Black wales, yellow painted sides, with a black ground to the topsides. Inboard Red Ochre was the order of the day, had been since 1715 but shortly after the start of the new century yellow ochre which had been used unofficially for some years became officially approved.
My own inclination is that Cheerful would have had painted yellow sides, black wales with the counter and capping rails painted black, and red inboard works throughout.
She may also have had her topsides painted black.
Cheerful was a small unrated vessel and as such I doubt  any Commander would have put his hand in pocket to 'personalise' the scheme.
In naval circles of the time to be appointed to the Cutter Service was not something to be particularly desired especially by those with ambition.
Still I am not trying to reproduce a working appearance, otherwise I would have painted or coppered her bottom and there was a fair bit of licence taken by even model makers of the day when it came to decoration.
I don't want an excess of paint to cover the natural wood but I have come to feel that the expanse of the counter did require something.
To my conservative eye Red was too much, and Blue too fancy for this small working vessel.

2466
I overlaid the counter with some black planks to gauge the look, and know what I like it.
So decision made black it is.

2475
Not particularly obvious on this shot I was also concerned that the plank lines showed thro' the paint I'm not really a fan of the solid sheet look.

2487
Thinned coats of Admiralty Metal Black were applied with sanding between coats.

2478
Moving on...………….
 
B.E.
03/09/2018
 
 

With the lower 2 wales complete, it is now time for the second layer of planks.  As noted previously, 1x5 mm swiss pear was used.  
First pic is shot from the bow with the first few planks placed.


A few more strakes placed.  I am working from the wales down and keel up.  The numbers on the lower layer denote frames (a few extra added to account for the butt joints) and the tick marks along each frame denote the plank  width.  I did not lay each plank the full length but rather used planks that are between 20-24 ft in scale (~4 inches)
 

This next photo shows what can be done with swiss pear a little water.  The curves at the bow are pretty extreme.

Next is a shot of the stern as the planking  progresses.  Calculations showed that the plank width at the stern is wider than the 5 mm I was using.  Rather than using stealers, I decided to use 1x7 mm swiss pear and trim to the appropriate size (white arrow)
 

 

Very nice shop.

Thanks for the liks and comments 
 
I yust finish the treenail on the dekk, I need some more later wen the hatches is in place 
I used #77 drill bit for this and some wood filler  (darker one) and I used 2 hull in one plank 
Soon I starts on the copper plates 😶 yeee. ....
 
Svein.erik 

Wel , I think I forgot the photo 😲

I finaly got the stamp to work, a little rebuild did the work.
so I made some sample to try on a boxvood sheet 
but it Seems to me that wen I take of the copper plates from the teip 
it kind of roll inn, so wen I put it on you can see its not Strait on the sheet, 
Maby this like this or it wil be better wen tones down?
 
Svein. Erik 

I don’t really sell them as of yet. PM me  the dimensions and I’ll see what I can do.

Number two is not an issue even if you cut through it still works. We are working on the clarity issue as we agree with you. We are thinking instead of 45 degrees going with 47 degrees to leave a small void that would get filled by the adhesive. In a large case the waste is not waste, it is used on other projects like small cases.

Standing rigging done today. 😀  On to the running rigging.  This is such a small boat, the running rigging won’t take long.
 
 
View from the bow.  You can easily see the block on the stem for the outhaul and the grapnel and swivel behind the forward stay.
 
 

 
View looking forward.  You can see the backstays tied off and the rigging lashed to the block and hook.  This was shown on the NMM Model and makes sense so I copied it.
 
 

 
 

 
 
Port side view 
 
 

 
 
Starboard side view
 
 

 
 
Standing rigging at the mast hounds
 
 

 
 
Overall view.  Now time to finish it up.  Boom and gaff next with the jib halyard on the bowsprit.
 

 
 
 
 

A bit of an update.  Deadeyes seized on the port side and starboard side forward. One more to go.   😃  I made a convenient jig to hold the deadeyes in place. I know this has been covered in other threads before but for those that haven’t seen it I show what I did. 
 
I used some 26 gage wire that just fit in the holes of the deadeye and cut some short pieces about 1.5 inches long. Then put about a 30-45 degree bent in the middle. The amount isn’t important but it should be enough to separate the ends when you put the two together.  I then soldered them together.  See pic.
 

 
Next I straightened them out and wrapped them around two small nails the distance I wanted between the deadeyes. 
 

 
 
This created the holding jig. I only made two, one for each side, but you could easily make more.  It only took t minutes to make them. 
 
 
 
 

 
A pic showing them in action. Very convenient. 
 

 
A few more
 

 

 
Then time to rove the lanyards. There are some good discriptions on how to set up the deadeyes in contemporary works.  One of them is “The young Sea officers sheet anchor” by Darcy Lever.  As the shroud cables cross each other and are seized at the top of the deadeye at the top, the short end should lay on the aft side port and the forward side starboard.  The stopped knot of the lanyard will be placed on the opposite side and reeve though the deadeyes and lashed to the shroud above.
 
 

 
The pic below is not finished on the starboard side.  The lanyard is only tight to check the tension and spacing.  But you can see the bottom deadeye hooked to the chainplate. These extreme closeups are very unforgiving. 😥
 

 
I also drilled another hole in the stem for the stay lanyard.  After close inspection of the NMM model I noticed there are three holes, not two.  Lanyard set up and seized to the stay.
 
 

 
A couple of other spare pics for setting up the deadeyes.
 

 

 
 
Enough for now.  Enjoy.
 
 
 

I forgot to mention for the rigging line and blocks I’m using parts from Syren Ship Model Company.  The stuff provided by Model Shipways in this kit are about the cheapest, crappiest stuff I’ve seen.  Definitely low grade nylon rigging line.  So it helps to upgrade these or make them yourself for a much better look.
 
Heres a pic of Syren upgrade items.
 
 

 
 
 

My favorite part is rigging.  My work table is nothing special, just a card table in the basement and a vise.  Most of the boat was made with this arrangement which goes to show that you don’t need much to build one of these boats. 😉
 
 
I started with the stays. With the forestay and back stays added it will hold the mast in place pretty well so I can seize the deadeyes in place without everything shifting all over the place.  I made most of the standing rigging off the model so I could slip them over the masthead in the correct order.  
 
The metal fittings and mast cap at the top are not fitted yet.....err perhaps I should say they were removed once I found out I couldn’t get the standing rigging over the mast head.  😟  I’ll add them later after I’m sure everything is in place.  All the lanyards are tied off temporarily until I get the deadeyes turned in and can adjust everything.
 
 

 
 
Below you can see the backstays hooked into the eyes of their respective chainplate.
 

 
Another view from the bow.  The belaying pins still need to be blackened.  The bowsprit is only sitting in place.  A block has been added to the horse aft for the main sheet.
 

 
 
 

 
Next I’ll turn the deadeyes into their respective shrouds and hook them onto the plates.  That’s all for now.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Finished it.  
 
I used model ship eyebolts to secure the HF antenna.
 
Overall, I’m happy with how it turned out.
 
Now to finish the Victory!