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king derelict

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  1. king derelict
    Thank you for the kind comment Popeye. This is a great kit and I have enjoyed it a lot. Flyhawk put a lot of detail into a tiny tank. Alan
  2. king derelict
    Thanks Egilman I should have checked the dry fit and registered teh misalignment before gluing. Your solution would have then been an elegant fix. As it was I stumbled through it. I do need to learn that the kit manufacturer isn't always delivering a perfect kit. Flyhawk is so good generally that I get lulled into a false sense of security. Alan
  3. king derelict
    Thanks Patrick. I shaved a couple of the teeth and there was then enough room in the track links to accommodate the misalignment. I need to get in the habit of checking stuff like this before reaching for the glue. Alan
  4. king derelict
    Thank you very much OC. This is the most complicated ship I have attempted. First wooden deck, most complicated PE and first use of brass guns. I have learnt a lot, had some very useful suggestions on tackling the work which has made it a better model so many thanks to everyone for that. I'm reading up on diorama techniques to try to create part of a snowy fjord. Alan
  5. king derelict
    That is great. Raising the standard higher.
  6. king derelict
    Back to making some progress here after being focussed on HMS Penelope. I painted the rubber rims of the road wheels and built up the overlapping wheels. I found the wheels to be very tight on the axles and had to open them up with the next size drill. The first section of track was glued into place and I found another slight issue. The drive wheel / sprocket inner and outer teeth do not align. The inner and outer halves of the wheel are assembled with a square key so there is no scope for mis-assembly there and it is present on both sides. Dry fitting the first few single track pieces suggest that there is enough slack on the holes in the track to accommodate the misalignment and still have some scope to make the track run straight and parallel with the wheels. Some cleaning up and installation of the remaining track sections and probably some light clamping to get the track to sag onto the wheels are needed. The track pieces are very nicely moulded and seem to go together well. I departed a little from the instructions to move the long lower section forward to engage the first teeth of the drive wheel in order to ensure the following single pieces would engage also. The track guards and small details will go on and then weathering and another experiement with the Rust and Bare Metal Oilbrushers Thanks Alan
  7. king derelict
    The details condoned over the last few days. The railings were completed. For some reason I found the Flyhawk railings easier to install than my previous attempt using Eduard railings. The derrick and catapult were added with breath held! The Seafox was painted and the decals applied without losing any of them. A general clean up and removal of cat hairs and this morning with breath held even longer the Seafox was added to the catapult. It probably should have been further back on the catapult but the derrick was now in the way. There is a lesson in planning and I should have thought about this and angled the derrick to provide better access to the catapult. The 6 Ps in action!. I tried out the Rust Oilbrushers and was very impressed with the way it comes out. I think I was a bit heavy handed around the hawse holes and too light under the port holes but it was a first attempt and I don't think it ruined the model. There is a lot of pigment in one small dot of paint. This will be as far as I go for a while, You will note that the anchors are not present. I'm waiting to see how the diorama works out. If it comes together it will depict the ship at anchor. I have sent off for some 1/700 chain and hopefully that will take care of the foredeck and the anchoring of the ship. I made a start on the diorama base and determined the dimensions. The width of the diorama will be compressed putting the ship at anchor to the shore much closer than a careful captain would enjoy. I sent off for resin and the material to make a display case to go over it. The cost of the model pales into insignificance compared to the display case, teh diorama materials, weathering etc. But they all make it more fun.
  8. king derelict
    Craig Many Thanks for looking into this for me. Your brush looks just like mine. In the Mig video they show the brush as in the screenshot below Although later images with paint on it do make it look thicker. The video shows its use on larger scale model AFV and planes so that also makes it look smaller> Waving any brush at 1/700 hips makes the brush look big. Thanks again. I still think its a very convenient way to use oils. I think I will get a few more colours to go with the two sets I already have.
  9. king derelict
    The Rust set I got has the same brush too. Maybe I should contact spraygunner.com and see if Mig have made changes thanks Alan
  10. king derelict
    I received the Bare Metal and Rust Oilbrusher kits from Spraygunner today and had a little session of experimentation with them. After watching the Youtube videos I was a little disappointed to find the brush is not the fine point shown in the advertising but a square ended quite broad one. The bristle ring that is supposed to wipe off the excess paint as you withdraw the brush wasn't present either. Maybe Mig have made changes. The finer brush would be nice because my initial conclusion is that the paint is very strong and only a little is needed (like ordinary oil paint I suppose). I did work up the courage to attempt a little rust on HMS Penelope and I don't think I ruined it. I was using the applicator brush to transfer the paint to a palette and then picking it up with a fine brush (which sort of defeats the point). So from the initial experience I like them and will use them in preference to oil from the tubes. Many Thanks for referencing them Alan
  11. king derelict
    Thanks Craig. I picked up a Harbor Freight mini torch so I'll give it a try Alan
  12. king derelict
    I've not worked with stainless PE. How did you anneal it? Thanks Alan
  13. king derelict
    Very, very nice
  14. king derelict
    Thanks Craig. I'm looking at the 1/700 resin chain RGL used on Eskimo. From the website it is 0.15 mm which I guess is the link thickness. If so the link length is about o.75mm long (21 inches at full scale) instead of the 1.3 mm of the chain that I have. The links look narrower too. I might have to order some and see how it looks. Thanks Alan
  15. king derelict
    Progressing today with the details; sprayed the Seafox with the light grey, added davits to the ship and tidied up some paintwork as well as painting some parts that look like they should be part of the brown scheme rather than left light grey. I started scoping out the basics of the diorama. Its going to take up more space than just putting Penelope in the sdisplay case but I would like to do the fjord scene to put the camouflage in context so I think I'll give it a try. I have a question for the more experienced. The wooden deck was supplied with paint masks and anchor chain. The chain is quite nice but I think it is overscale. Using the Vernier I make the link length to be about 35 inch long at full size and the link thickness to be about 6.5 inches. The thickness looks good but I think the links are too long and fat. Any thoughts? I don't like the flat PE chain but I think I am stuck with it. My plan was to show her at anchor in the fjord so I might have to get creative. Maybe use the PE chain on the deck and the other chain from the hawse hole to the water? Thanks for the help Alan
  16. king derelict
    Thank you for the kind words OC. The camera is cruel but it is helping me rectify mistakes too. I'm looking forward to adding the catapult and the Seafox Alan
  17. king derelict
    That is spectacular. Its a very interesting subject and the final result is beautiful. Something to aim for. Alan
  18. king derelict
    Very tempting but likewise I have the deluxe Flyhawk kit. That's a great looking kit at a great price though. I need to reduce the size of the pile not increase it. Alan
  19. king derelict
    The detail work continues along with cleaning up the "completed" sections. The photos are ruthless at showing up the problems and the first part of the days efforts is tidying up the issues seen in the previous nights photos. The main deck railings were completed which is a major milestone for me. I think nice clean railings are one of the single most attractive upgrades but done badly they spoil the model. The ships boats were painted and mostly added to the ship. The six inch guns are on now and the four inch guns were tidied up a bit. I did find the extruded polystyrene I wanted for the fjord diorama (Lowes 24 x 24 x 1 inch for $5.95) so I will start thinking about that as well as finishing off the details and the Seafox. Masts, derrick and the catapult can then be added. Alan
  20. king derelict
    That looks like a great deal. Wood deck and everything! What is the detail like on the plastic parts? I'm going to enjoy watching this come together. Alan
  21. king derelict
    Slowly progressing through the details. Some of the parts have needed painting in my best guess of the colour scheme as I realise how they fit into the ship. The booms on the ships sides, ventilators etc. The PE railing is slowly going on. I finished the rear superstructure railings which are the last ones that have complex bends. There isn't much more PE to add now, depth chargers and and a few small details. I plan to use the plastic boat davits, they are quite nice and more three dimensional than the PE. I started painting the boats and the aircraft. The Walrus is nice but I like the Seafox better. It seems like I'm approaching the end but there are still a lot of parts left on the sprues, especially the searchlights, paravanes and small weapons. Useful for a lot of other kits where the detail is inferior. Its interesting, possibly because The Arethusa class was prewar but two quad .50 cal guns doesn't seem an exceptionally aggressive air defence system Thanks Alan
  22. king derelict
    The reviews and guides look convincing. I ordered the bare metal and rust sets from Spraygunner. The Aust F might be getting the treatment Thanks for bringing them to my attention. Alan
  23. king derelict
    Craig, Thank you very much for the praise; it is very encouraging from someone with your skills. For me this has been the most enjoyable build as well as the most complicated. I've enjoyed trying plot my way through the various stages of the build. I do tend to work on an element and then go and do something else for a while and maybe plot the next move. Alan
  24. king derelict
    Many thanks OC, praise from the masters is very encouraging Alan
  25. king derelict
    Hi OC, I think that is one of the things I am enjoying about Penelope. With the small destroyers you can't really break out the superstructure there isn't enough of it so you do the main build then primer, then wait, then first main colour, then wait, then mask and paint again. So there are days when it seems you can only work on it for an hour. With this build there are so many areas to play with. I still have a lot more details to add to the ship, the boats need to be painted and the Seafox needs to be painted too. Alan

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