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king derelict

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  1. I hope that works out for you OC. It does seem a lottery buying from China via eBay. I'm in the same situation. I've generally been impressed with DSPIAE modelling tools and ordered their magnetic paint stirrer. It sounded like an interesting idea. You drop a small steel rod in the paint bottle and a motor on teh base spins the rod round extremely fast. Mine arrived and I gave it a try. It wouldn't even rotate the rod in the paint. Thinking the paint might be too thick I tried it with water and got a similar result. So far communication has been great and they apparently have a replacement on the way. We shall see. I should have listened to @Egilman about paint stirrers.😄 Alan
  2. A quiet Sunday morning and a bit more progress. I completed the turban, started the belts and cummerbund. I got brave and added the whites of the eye which I guess commits me to doing the pupils. Some touching up to do with the belts but I am happy with the face. I added a black wash to the beard and I like it. I need to decide on the next step. The guide picture shows a lot of fine detail patterns on the sash and the turban. Thin stripes of red and brown on the yellow. I'm inclining to just going with some broad stripes seeing as this is my first figure and I want to end up with something I feel okay with rather than a shameful mess. I suspect the guy that painted the figure for the guide might have done a few other figures before attempting that one I'm also looking for a bit of advice. I am wondering whether to try to use a wash to bring out the details and whether to spray a clear coat onto the figure before attempting the wash. Any thoughts or advice? I bought this rather odd-looking device after browsing the DSPIAE range. Its a hand stabiliser to try to control motion when painting detail or using tweezers on small parts. I'm still adapting to working with it and it seems very helpful. I will definitely be using it when I get brave enough to try to paint the pupils. Thanks you all for looking in and for the encouraging comments and suggestions Alan
  3. Thank you Craig. Its a big learning experience but its hugely enjoyable - and the finished product doesn't take up much room. But they are quicbker to complete so maybe they end up taking the same space as a complicated ship model. Alan
  4. Thank you OC. Let’s see how I do on the details! As I understand it Skinners Horse are the only British Army unit to have worn yellow. Very distinctive. I’ve just found that Art Girona has a lot of 19 th century Indian army subjects in their 70 mm range. That could solve birthday presents for a while (or frighten the credit card) alan
  5. Thanks OC. I bought the Life Colour RN Eastern Approaches set which has all three colors I need. Great suggestion. alan
  6. I managed to get a bit of time yesterday and today and got out the colours. About five coats of yellow on the tunic and I am not sure if its too much. I'm feeling my way with the glaze technique. Not too terrible so far. The first coat on the red parts of the turban and some black details. I'm still learning how to use the wet palette so this is all a bit learning experience. The paints are Vallejo Model paints and the BBs really make a difference to mixing them. The face and hands are using Mig Ammo flesh tones which I think are very nice. He may be a bit dark but I will see how he looks with the beard filled in. I'm a bit leery of the clamps after the earlier problem so I think I will glue him to a temporary base of some sort for the remainder of the work Thanks for looking in and all teh helpful comments and suggestions Alan
  7. The B-25 cockpit looks terrific. Great work. That ZM kit looks superb and reading the blog shows it to be a fantastic build. I look forward to seeing you work on it. Your kit choices are excellent. Alan
  8. As a postscript to the above I hauled out my stock of thinners and experimented. Reading around the internet a lot of people were claiming great results from Mr Color leveling thinners with AK paint. Mind you there were also people claiming great things about using Tamika acrylic thinner which at least for me is a guaranteed way to block the airbrush solid. I just learned that Mr Color leveling thinner causes the AK paint to congeal. Tamika lacquer thinner does the same. As a last shot I tried Mig Ammo acrylic thinner and it thinned nicely. Yet curiously MiG Ammo acrylics thin with Tamiya acrylic thinners too. so it looks like I can avoid using water as a thinner Onwards Alan
  9. This is hardly a progress report today. I sprayed the relevant sections of Zinnia with the AK MS3 paint and found it was hardly distinguishable from the light grey already in place and nothing like the colour chip I have for MS3. I mixed up a blend of IJN grey / green and dark green from Tamiya and used that. I liked the result a lot better so went ahead and added the dark grey. Today, a day later, I stripped the masking and found that the light grey had bled all over the red lower hull and over the dark grey deck. The dark grey had bled all over the grey / green and the light green. Its far too extensive to touch up. I haven't had anything as bad as this before. The grey green didn't seep anywhere. i think the problem was the AK acrylics which are water based and had to be diluted with water. They sprayed on very wet and I think that resulted in the seeping. The grey / green is Tamiya which I think has an alcohol base and dried fast. Sorry no pictures I was too disgusted. Its going to need to be stripped down and redone. I need to see if I can use something other than water with the AK paints - or dump them and use all Tamiya ones. Another day, another lesson learnt Alan
  10. Today was the day when the modelling gods decided I needed a good poking. I soaked the paper for the wet palette and soaked the sponge. Added BBs to the paint and got a good consistency. New brushes at hand and ready to go. I picked up the daffadar in the universal clamp and had a brushful of yellow paint poised and, to my horror, the figure fell out of the clamp. I guess I didn't clamp the base tight enough. The day being what it was the daffadar landed on the Nabopolassar figure which was lurking on the bench. Both heads detached and the soldiers base fell off. No obvious damage and the pieces were glued back in place but that shut down any painting plans for the morning. I turned my attention to removing the masking from my Flower Corvette and found that paint had seeped through the masks EVERYWHERE. I've never had a result as bad as this. Maybe stuffing teddies isn't a bad idea after all. Alan
  11. A spectacular result. One of the very best I have seen. I think the water running down the side of the ship looks impressively realistic. I may go and take up knitting. Alan
  12. This will be a spectacular model. It looks like a very tempting kit - the Mig also Looking forward to it Alan
  13. The figures make a great scene and take it beyond being just a model. A very beautiful model even so Wonderful Alan
  14. After all the great advice, the Copperhead BBs, wet paletta and nail art brushes have arrives. A couple of the brushes may be over long for me to use but the others look good and hold a point very well. I don't see any stray bristles in any of them. Now if only Amazon would deliver a couple of days away from the test stand I could get going. Thanks for all the help Alan \
  15. A minor update without pictures today. I tinkered with the seascape and after badmouthing the stuff yesterday I used the Vallejo foam / snow stuff to add white to the wave caps and foam. This time I knew what to expect - thick white paint and I dry brushed it where I wanted high lights. I'll see how it looks tomorrow and decide whether to try the snow powder or more foam / snow - or leave well alone. I finished masking Zinnia for the second hull colour, the grey green and then fell into the usual rabbit hole of what colour its supposed to be. Mirage call out RN colour G20 which is a mid grey / green. Their pictures show a green more like the IJN grey green I used for Spiraea in a different paint scheme. Its definitely not Western Approaches Green which is a whole other paint scheme too. Zinnia was only in service for about four months in 1941 which restricts the options and as best I can tell it should be MS3 (mid grey / green) which is very similar to G20 but an earlier rendition. I'll be using that along with 507A and 507C for the dark and light greys. By the time I had decided this and dug out the relevant paint it was time to strap on the safety boots and head for the test stand. So hopefully tomorrow Thanks for looking in Alan
  16. I have something similar and it is a big help when working with the foam. The High Eye guy uses one a lot too. In my hands at least it’s not a precise tool but it allows you to work on the foam in places where it is hard to get a knife. Sloping ground can be a case in point if it’s a large area alan
  17. Its a favourite of the High Eye Youtube channel that does dioramas High Eye Workshop - YouTube Alan
  18. Nice photos of Cornwall. I used to sail a 19' Hunter out of Carrick Roads down there. Very happy memories (well, apart from the day we got caught in a sea fog and couldn't remember which way was France) Alan
  19. I haven't tried that but it is generally very forgiving and tolerant. It doesn't tear up into little balls like expanded polystyrene. I used it as the base for Castle Loarre and the current seascape. Its nice and rigid too. Alan
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