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Heinrich der Seefahrer

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Everything posted by Heinrich der Seefahrer

  1. Next step is for Pirates and Dwarfs only - it is about gold! Thevwhit topped can is the basic ao what the other two shades of gold are placed onto. My personal main problem is the transom with some huge empty area where before the skull and crossed bones were located. As the skull and crossed bones were now removed and everything looks a bit lonely and lost there is deep need to change something - but how!? And as the area isn't enclosed towards the top it is not so easy to fill the picture as everything seems to be lifted towards the upper side. There it seems like a framed picture with the top bar left away for an ascension's painting. Shall there be a curved bar to enclose everything? So I think about some baroque painting to fill the empty space before the redbrown bull. So I left the survace carved as is is from the extinction of the given item and try to reuse the unflat surface for the clouds of the background. So we do start with the golden painting of the ornamentations, handrails and the little akanthus leaves.
  2. Thanks Jan, the giftpaper is a good idea!!! Shrouds and ratlines may be made from scratch - but this is not shure at the moment. I may build some half scratch solution shrouds and deadeyzs from the kit - all the ratlines from scratch. As the do not look very nice and detailled!
  3. Next ten steps to the hull und rigging (standing and running): The hull: I. pointing (not drilling through the hull) holes for the dowels, bolts and nails in 0,2mm and 0,4mm II. painting the "holes" in iron and darker wooden brown III. shadowing the red parts by inking them (topside darker red ink downside darkbrown) IV.a painting (Citardell Khrone red) the dreckspart's rest IV.b Adding the aft lamp from the Heller SOLEIL ROYAL kit on a bent lampbase V. Citardel Gold colours and inks for the decoration and ornamentation Prepare the rigging: Consulting the Ab Hoven's HEERMKRECK drawings!!! VI.a Glueing the masts and yards ready without rigging VI.b painting them with tanned sails VII. Testfit the masts deciding about the stays (without any staysails) VIII. Adding the running rigging to the masts and yards - (wait for the ordered blocks and lines!) IX. Drilling holes in the stem due to fix the bowsprit X. fixing the decksparts remember the stress of the running rigging! (Do not forget to ink them carfully before belaying) Hello specialists!!! Did I foreget anything?
  4. For the superstructure I use Citardel Khorne Red and here the last pictures of the day: the light is horribly but as it is 10 o'clock there is no sunlight any more.
  5. First coluring wood imitation and first redbrown (Tamiya Hull Red). Port side Starboard side Transom (upside down) The gap at the underwater part of the hull will be closed also the gunports will ne opened.
  6. First and second layer of paint rough as I only can do it: The light Sand colour is Vallejo "Pale Sand"; the darker brown is Revell Aqua "Dark Earth". That's it for tonight!
  7. Nothing very spectacular only a simple children's collier... The first step is done... Only a simple row of balls alled by some cheap childrens glas bread - glued by CA and filled with a drop of CAglue to fill the drill hole. Some were used as hand knob on the bulkwalk, some to "artificete" the back deck. the galion has also been refined by some glas bread. The clinker wood is usually the side cut of a tree - without bark but the cheapest wood. Here from Werner Jäger "Der kurische Reisekahn MARIA" (The Curonian travelling barge MARIA - a baltic sea merachand barge for open sea and canal use s.t. horse drawn) the clinker of the night house. And here what it looked like - the irregularities of the wood isn't as strong that you can see them... so everything is okay with the kit - I didn't have to change it again. Now the glue has to have time to dry so I can spray the last layer of primer to the hull. After this the upper parts are toairbrushed be airbrushed in Revell 88 Ocker and the decoration in gold. The rest is dry brushing and ink - without painting the bulkwalk red and adding some symbol on the gunport lids inner sinking dots to hide them.
  8. Hello friends, the website www.scalemates.com shows the development of nearly all plastic kits availible all over the world. So you can get some idea if the kit you want to buy is available under some other companies badge in a new box. By this you open the basket und you can see what dug is sitting inside - besides the loud box arts soundings. But often the kit is the very same - only the price differs massively. So I was able to caught my USS CONSTITUTION much cheaper as I bought the USS UNITED STATES kit! Paying not $ 100 - I payed $ 42. The difference in the kits are a changed transom and a two tier sidegalleries. As both will be rebuild at all there wasn't any reason not to buy the cheaper kit. Same with the Heller PREUSSEN clipper - if you want the full five masted ship you pay $100 - if you buy the CAP HORN you pay $30 less - by copying the fockmast once you can exchange the wrong mizzen mast and you get again a PREUSSEN. The saved money is easily spended in a good PREUSSEN set of plans for $20, detailings and paint... but you know how it runs usually.
  9. Due to the hot weather I only cut the roof parts out of a stripe of 2mm balsa wood - nothing else - without drinking cold water.
  10. This morning only some primer was added - little steps foreward make a walk. Next step: side galleries roof has to be rounded by adding some sanded balsa wood pices and little pearls in a row to give a more baroque impression. Memo to myself: Do not forget the prominent nailing marks to add.
  11. Great research you did, Marc! Very very helpfull to all of us here - thanks for sharing! The joining of transom and QG is the real test of concept. Why not some trial-/dry fit in paper and cardboard? P.S.: When I train the words K_eep I_t S_hort & S_miple everyday in the office for calls - why not using it here also for trials?
  12. Ahaaa another TITANIC... as a commission build it is always a question of time and money put in and pecuniary output on the other end. A too good dony model tends to give "black zero" as our managers tell us. Solokking foreward to your progress.
  13. Hello, here the result with the goods and malus... And the added parts on the hulls outside. And the clinkered bulkheads And what didn't work are the on both sides gaps at the back deck and the inner transom. The "shortcomings" of the deck. I want to close these gaps this night - I hope my technique of CA-glue to fix and plasticglue to weld the plastic parts. and the backdecks entrance - without any stairs towards the deck and the foremast.
  14. Hy Marc, that is the same obstacle to the buildings progress I rushed into, too. The problem I look onto is that we habe got on the QG yhe mid window that is 1:1 but the stemside windows and parts must be shorter in the drawing than they reakky were - due to perspective. So I binned the drawings I made and are strting to redo them by the use of a pair of campasses to take the real length from the top view. And take it into a side view so there we have got an "unrolled lateral surface" (pink in the drawing). That does not look very nice but is right. Hth - being in a hurry.
  15. Very last step... glueing the hull together sticked on the pair of tweezers. I am not really happy about this very last act. In particular due to the narrow keel where the cramps hadn't any grip. I think about adding a bit more keel to the hull later on.
  16. ...the clinker build is really a technic I am a stupid newby in. It is a complex to cut and build but beautiful to look on thing. Here is the next bulkhead. Model us yard closed for this night.
  17. And some little steps later we have got further details... ...nothing astonishing, but progress. I am still in work on the bulkheads detailing - thinking about typical Dutch clinker planking. But on the bulkhead breakhead I cant get any ide how to get a curved profile corresponding to the prototypes in vdV pictures
  18. Hello Manuel and Tanja, welcom a board! As me and my Admiral(ness) do also build shipmodels.it is a great thing to sit together on a table vis-a-vis and building differend models. We both want to start with AGATE a small whaling schooner of 1855 - but before scratch building we have to do some skill giving exercises. We want to build the whaler both from the same plan set copies. We want both to build in the same scale - but more ande more she developes more skills into wood and me into plastic. So our work will be completly differend. And she overtook me in wood in the first evenig we glued both a boat - she a working boat,me a whaling boat. So have fun and I hope to see some pictures...
  19. Thats a good start, you did and for $40 it is a good kit. Are you going to build TITANIC a second time? It has a plenty of advantages to stay with cardboard. Look at Doris ROYAL KATHERINE: So the invest in a good plan will make the work very much easier - and you do not depend on the producers work he handeld over to you. Or a little ship with a plenty of research work? The hole shipbuilding is standing to your decission - from a littel Babylonic Euphrat trading boat, Agyptian fishing boat to an ship of the line in its metamorphic way through the years 1600-1950 or an modern rocket cruiser. The parallel effect with the merchant shipping and pure passengerships establishing till 1850. There are kits from.all over the world to find at ebay, wonderful plans and pictures in the museum. And that's the other end of shipbuilding: the criminalistic path to your ship by doing everything on your own. Do the rest at the big TITANIC kit - and then try a smaller one. A better kit. There are plentys of passenger ships sunk. The biggest lost of life has had Germany 1945 with WIHELM GUSTLOFF and about 7.000 killed refugies from East- and Westprussia. There is OREGON, ANDREA DORIA and ships we never again listen from after ship and passengers left the safety of the habor... What is your line of ships? Passengerships? Wellknown ships? Little beauties of the sea?
  20. All the wales at place: Not really great art but the best I could mine out of the kit. Edit... The model yard is closing for tonight - this is the status quo for portside (also starboard) and the transom. The bull is not fixed yet.
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