JerseyCity Frankie
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
TOPGALLANT MAST AND SHROUDS, YARDS
I installed the topgallant mast and worked on the upper shrouds. I used .018 black Syren rope for the shrouds, and .008 brown for the ratlines. I lashed the cherry staves as I did on the lower shrouds. I finished the starboard side and will finish the port side tonight.
The plans call for a pendant in the shrouds near the hounds to run the topgallant yard lift through. I decided to use a 3/32 single block instead.
I also spent the day getting the yards ready. I installed the stirrups, using fish hooks (great tip from this forum). I then primed and painted them with flat black paint. I will be seizing blocks, jackstays and the foot ropes next.
My thoughts are that I will pin the yards to the Foremast before finally attaching it to the deck. I have finally decided to leave the yards in their lowered position hanging on their slings and lifts. I should be able to do all of this running rigging before attaching the mast.
Right now, I have a spaghetti factory hanging from my foremast. I have seized every line I can think of, including some of the brace lines. I hope I can keep them straight when I start attaching them to the right locations.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
FOREMAST UPPER SHROUDS AND RATLINES
I worked on the upper shrouds of my foremast. I created a jig to set the correct length of the shrouds before I seized the deadeyes. Doing this on the bench had great advantages. After setting the length, I was able to mount the rope end into my vice to seize the deadeye.
I used .025 Syren rope for the shrouds, and the 3/32” deadeyes. I experimented with .012” and .008” rope for the lanyards, and found that the .008” looked much better in the small deadeyes. The .012 rope was too bulky, and bunched up.
I made my staves out of cherry strip wood. I initially glued them in place with a drop of CA to hold them in place while I lashed them.
I used .008” for the ratlines. I used half hitch knots on the ends and clove knots in the middle. I dabbed a spot of CA on the half hitches. After tying a few, I started to get into a rhythm. Tedious for sure, but much easier while lying flat on the bench. I was going to paint them black, but like the oiled natural look of the cherry.
Tonight I will finish up the topmast shrouds, install the topgallant mast and work on those shrouds. Then a few more stays, and perhaps, just perhaps, I will ready to step the mast. A monumental accomplishment.
Then I can finish rigging the jib, and then work on the lower foremast shrouds, a ton of ratlines, and THEN, start all over on the main mast.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to cdrusn89 in US Brig Niagara by cdrusn89 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/64 scale
Main course yard complete including the yard portion of the sling (and I made and installed the fore course yard sling too). Now on to the Topsail yards.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Canute in Need ideas for 1/250 scale davit tackles
I’ve used this technique a few times: I tape three pieces of thin thread parallel and equidistant from each other in relatively long lengths on a piece of glass. These will wind up representing the falls of the tackle. At intervals I white glue my blocks onto all three pieces of thread. In the photo I used punched paper discs. In absence of a punch cut with xacto. When dry you can cut two of the three threads outboard of pairs of blocks, leaving three between blocks and one emerging from either end.the example in the photo used only two threads but you get the picture.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Keith Black in Old model shipways USS essex (solid hull)
I agree with those recommending a new modern kit. The wood won’t be dry and splintery and warped, the contents will be intact, the plans won’t be stained with someone else’s coffee rings, etc. a fair comparison of the cost of a new kit over an old one should take into account the amount of unknown troubles the eBay kit could contain. And if you’re going to spend six months to a year completing the kit, the higher cost of the new kit will mean only a few more pennies each day of work. Pennies that are totally worth it.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Canute in Old model shipways USS essex (solid hull)
I agree with those recommending a new modern kit. The wood won’t be dry and splintery and warped, the contents will be intact, the plans won’t be stained with someone else’s coffee rings, etc. a fair comparison of the cost of a new kit over an old one should take into account the amount of unknown troubles the eBay kit could contain. And if you’re going to spend six months to a year completing the kit, the higher cost of the new kit will mean only a few more pennies each day of work. Pennies that are totally worth it.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Need ideas for 1/250 scale davit tackles
I’ve used this technique a few times: I tape three pieces of thin thread parallel and equidistant from each other in relatively long lengths on a piece of glass. These will wind up representing the falls of the tackle. At intervals I white glue my blocks onto all three pieces of thread. In the photo I used punched paper discs. In absence of a punch cut with xacto. When dry you can cut two of the three threads outboard of pairs of blocks, leaving three between blocks and one emerging from either end.the example in the photo used only two threads but you get the picture.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Sea Hoss in Old model shipways USS essex (solid hull)
I agree with those recommending a new modern kit. The wood won’t be dry and splintery and warped, the contents will be intact, the plans won’t be stained with someone else’s coffee rings, etc. a fair comparison of the cost of a new kit over an old one should take into account the amount of unknown troubles the eBay kit could contain. And if you’re going to spend six months to a year completing the kit, the higher cost of the new kit will mean only a few more pennies each day of work. Pennies that are totally worth it.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from ccoyle in Need ideas for 1/250 scale davit tackles
I’ve used this technique a few times: I tape three pieces of thin thread parallel and equidistant from each other in relatively long lengths on a piece of glass. These will wind up representing the falls of the tackle. At intervals I white glue my blocks onto all three pieces of thread. In the photo I used punched paper discs. In absence of a punch cut with xacto. When dry you can cut two of the three threads outboard of pairs of blocks, leaving three between blocks and one emerging from either end.the example in the photo used only two threads but you get the picture.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Old model shipways USS essex (solid hull)
I agree with those recommending a new modern kit. The wood won’t be dry and splintery and warped, the contents will be intact, the plans won’t be stained with someone else’s coffee rings, etc. a fair comparison of the cost of a new kit over an old one should take into account the amount of unknown troubles the eBay kit could contain. And if you’re going to spend six months to a year completing the kit, the higher cost of the new kit will mean only a few more pennies each day of work. Pennies that are totally worth it.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Gregory in Need ideas for 1/250 scale davit tackles
I’ve used this technique a few times: I tape three pieces of thin thread parallel and equidistant from each other in relatively long lengths on a piece of glass. These will wind up representing the falls of the tackle. At intervals I white glue my blocks onto all three pieces of thread. In the photo I used punched paper discs. In absence of a punch cut with xacto. When dry you can cut two of the three threads outboard of pairs of blocks, leaving three between blocks and one emerging from either end.the example in the photo used only two threads but you get the picture.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in When to use what glue?
Plastic model cement won’t work gluing plastic parts that are painted. The mating surfaces need to be naked plastic. White glue can be used to glue painted parts together but it’s not an ideal bond. I’m guessing you could get through an entire modeling career using only cyano acrylate (CA) and white glue, between the two of them you can glue nearly everything. But still I think you can never have enough verieties of glues.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from lmagna in When to use what glue?
Plastic model cement won’t work gluing plastic parts that are painted. The mating surfaces need to be naked plastic. White glue can be used to glue painted parts together but it’s not an ideal bond. I’m guessing you could get through an entire modeling career using only cyano acrylate (CA) and white glue, between the two of them you can glue nearly everything. But still I think you can never have enough verieties of glues.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Canute in When to use what glue?
Plastic model cement won’t work gluing plastic parts that are painted. The mating surfaces need to be naked plastic. White glue can be used to glue painted parts together but it’s not an ideal bond. I’m guessing you could get through an entire modeling career using only cyano acrylate (CA) and white glue, between the two of them you can glue nearly everything. But still I think you can never have enough verieties of glues.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from pontiachedmark in When to use what glue?
Plastic model cement won’t work gluing plastic parts that are painted. The mating surfaces need to be naked plastic. White glue can be used to glue painted parts together but it’s not an ideal bond. I’m guessing you could get through an entire modeling career using only cyano acrylate (CA) and white glue, between the two of them you can glue nearly everything. But still I think you can never have enough verieties of glues.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Gregory in Cleats
Hey Grandpa,
This is the best way I know of to make cleats from scratch..
Syren Ship Model Company ( There are several sizes. This is one example. )
OK, so not scratch.. But at that price, your time is worth a lot more.
As amateur mentioned, using the example from Syren, you could shape some stock to that profile, then slice of a piece and shape it accordingly.
Metal? Paint them accordingly and call them metal..😂
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to popeye2sea in Run of the Fore Tack
This lead for the sheets seems kind of odd to me. If you had sails set here the clews would be pulled off in the direction of the shrouds. Not very efficient.
Regards,
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from gerty in Putting a loop on block ends
Here’s some photos illustrating wire stropping used to mimic rope stropping. In the lower left of one shot are two thread stropped blocks, which took a considerably longer time to produce but would be considered more “literally” “authentic”, meaning they’re more of a true miniaturization of a real rope stropped block since their strops are made of fiber line. But the wire stropped blocks look very good in comparison despite “faking” the material used in a strop. The other photo illustrates how rediculously easy it is to form a loop in wire. I’m guessing you can turn out three or four wire stropped blocks in the time it takes to strop one fiber line stropped block.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Canute in Erebus
I just returned from the Mystic Seaport Museum and they’ve got a great Franklin Expedition exhibit that’s full of artifacts and this nice model.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from josh44 in Hello from New york!
You can use the search feature. Also you can post bottled ships to the scratchbuilt section using the suffix “bottle”.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from thibaultron in Putting a loop on block ends
Here’s some photos illustrating wire stropping used to mimic rope stropping. In the lower left of one shot are two thread stropped blocks, which took a considerably longer time to produce but would be considered more “literally” “authentic”, meaning they’re more of a true miniaturization of a real rope stropped block since their strops are made of fiber line. But the wire stropped blocks look very good in comparison despite “faking” the material used in a strop. The other photo illustrates how rediculously easy it is to form a loop in wire. I’m guessing you can turn out three or four wire stropped blocks in the time it takes to strop one fiber line stropped block.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to cdrusn89 in US Brig Niagara by Tom E - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale
Tom,
I think the anchor rode went into the fwd hatch. It would have cluttered up the deck too much running all the way back to the main hatch IMHO. Here is what I did. The hawse and these are painted gray to simulate the lead that was likely used to reduce abrasion to the anchor cables as they were handled.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Putting a loop on block ends
Here’s some photos illustrating wire stropping used to mimic rope stropping. In the lower left of one shot are two thread stropped blocks, which took a considerably longer time to produce but would be considered more “literally” “authentic”, meaning they’re more of a true miniaturization of a real rope stropped block since their strops are made of fiber line. But the wire stropped blocks look very good in comparison despite “faking” the material used in a strop. The other photo illustrates how rediculously easy it is to form a loop in wire. I’m guessing you can turn out three or four wire stropped blocks in the time it takes to strop one fiber line stropped block.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Gregory in Putting a loop on block ends
Here’s some photos illustrating wire stropping used to mimic rope stropping. In the lower left of one shot are two thread stropped blocks, which took a considerably longer time to produce but would be considered more “literally” “authentic”, meaning they’re more of a true miniaturization of a real rope stropped block since their strops are made of fiber line. But the wire stropped blocks look very good in comparison despite “faking” the material used in a strop. The other photo illustrates how rediculously easy it is to form a loop in wire. I’m guessing you can turn out three or four wire stropped blocks in the time it takes to strop one fiber line stropped block.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from tasmanian in Hello from New york!
I’m in Jersey City across the river, I build ships in bottles too.
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