Jump to content

Need ideas for 1/250 scale davit tackles


Recommended Posts

Okay, I have a problem. Several problems, actually, but I'll take them one at a time. I'm working on a 1/250 scale card model that has a bunch of ship's boats. The davits are laser cut, as are the blocks, but of course they're not all in one piece along with the lines. I have tried and failed several times to complete the davit assemblies (from which I'll eventually have to hang the boats, too) using wire or EZ Line. I'm out of ideas. Anybody have any new ones??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, I have not modelled with card so please take my suggestion with a healthy dose of salt :)

 

Have you tried making a jig onto which you can lay out and glue all the parts  (waxed ply or the like) and using small pins and strips of wood as the form etc.  With pins in the locations for the fall blocks etc would it be possible to layout the davit tackle/falls then use Mark's idea to set them?

 

cheers

 

Pat 

Edited by BANYAN
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have a copy of Lloyd McCaffery's book 'Shipbuilding in Miniature' ? He describes, together with a picture, how he constructs such tackles from twisted wire. The rope made from wire is shaped around a rig and paper discs representing blocks are glued to the sides. The whole thing than forms a more or less rigid assembly that is installed at the desired place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎11‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 11:29 PM, ccoyle said:

Okay, I have a problem. Several problems, actually, but I'll take them one at a time. I'm working on a 1/250 scale card model that has a bunch of ship's boats. The davits are laser cut, as are the blocks, but of course they're not all in one piece along with the lines. I have tried and failed several times to complete the davit assemblies (from which I'll eventually have to hang the boats, too) using wire or EZ Line. I'm out of ideas. Anybody have any new ones??

Sorry if I am thick, Chris but how exactly are you failing to complete the assemblies? What is gong wrong, and even better, what is going right?

 

Adrie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@wefalck: Thanks, I'll have to see if I can scrounge up a copy of that.

 

@Adrie: The problem is primarily one of scale. The blocks are only about 1.5 mm in diameter. Each needs to have two lines going upward to connect to a davit, and another line coming down to attach to the boat. I haven't yet found a material for the lines that is suitably thin, durable, and preferably rigid. I'm sure such a material exists -- I just haven't found it yet! In many card kits, a simplified version of the davit and block assembly is usually provided; it normally has the lines between block and davit printed. The modeler then has to decide whether to leave in the white space between the lines or (shudder!) try to cut it out. This model does not include that option, and not all of the boats have chocks, so some of them have to be hung from their davits or else omitted from the model entirely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To elaborate a bit:

- take copper or molybdenum (easy to find on ebay and stiffer than copper) wires of appropriate diameter and twist to lengths together, this is your (wire) rope; drill two holes of the distance of the blocks into a waste piece of wood and insert two pins of the diameter of your blocks; wind the wire rope you made around them to simulate the tackle - one end will begin at the lower block and the other end will run across the rollers on the davit; take the wire off the jig and stick paper roundels at the appropriate place to simulate the blocks; for double blocks you would actually need three roundels each; the top block will also need a short piece of wire or a loop attached to the davit; you can now attach the whole assembly to the davit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is dead easy and quite cheap to find copper wire down to 0.05 mm and molybdenum wire down to 0.03 mm diameter on ebay - bought recently a whole batch from various Chines sources. They often deliver within a few days, at least here in Europe.

 

wires.co.uk also sells pre-tinned copper wire that might come handy here. Not as cheap as simple copper wire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, wefalck said:

It is dead easy and quite cheap to find copper wire down to 0.05 mm and molybdenum wire down to 0.03 mm diameter on ebay

 

I know -- I'm just looking for some I might be able to pick up on the way home instead of having to wait several days for it. Call it impatience (a sad trait in a modeler, I know).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, FingerSticker said:

Test

Hmmmmm.

 

Ok, if this works now, then:

 

Chris, I would suggest using common sewing thread and a 50/50 mixture of PVA/water. Dry it under weight for a night (clothes peg will do for weight) and the thread will become surprisingly stiff. It is best to push the thread under the liquid level and to use your fingers to remove the excess liquid and also force the sticking out fibres to line up with the thread.

 

Adrie.

Edited by FingerSticker
Added additional information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen Shipyard sell rigging threads of 0.1 mm. Never seen them in the 'flesh' or used them, mind you. But perhaps someone here has? Oh, and not really sure what the thickness of normal sewing thread is, either.

 

Adrie.

Edited by FingerSticker
addition information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am making 'ropes' on my ropewalk from fly-tying thread. The the finest (16/0) gives a rope of about 0.04 mm diameter. This thread is available in many different colours, e.g. silvery grey for steel-wire, black, and beige.

Check out the building-log for my Zuiderzee-Botter, where I used these ropes. They can be stiffened with clear varnish - better than using glue, because the varnish can be softened with the appropriate solvent (not acrylic varnish !). The rope coils etc. on the botter-model are shaped with varnish.

Such rope would be an alternative to the twisted wire in the method described above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I’ve used this technique a few times: I tape three pieces of thin thread parallel and equidistant from each other in relatively long lengths on a piece of glass. These will wind up representing the falls of the tackle. At intervals I white glue my blocks onto all three pieces of thread. In the photo I used punched paper discs. In absence of a punch cut with xacto. When dry you can cut two of the three threads outboard of pairs of blocks, leaving three between blocks and one emerging from either end.the example in the photo used only two threads but you get the picture. 

 

19E139CA-EA70-4408-8040-DC1BDF1AB0DA.jpeg

Edited by JerseyCity Frankie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...