cotrecerf
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Everything posted by cotrecerf
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Peter, check this link Kurbrandenburgische Marine – Wikipedia. The original yacht belonged to the Elector of Brandenburg at that time and there are oil paintings showing the yacht, the Brandenburg fleet giving you some idea of the colour scheme. I will scan the pages related to era colouring of the Hoeckel book soon. (They are in German language) Cheers- 55 replies
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Peter PvG Aussie, the plan is a true 1/100 scale, your model looks a bit smaller though. To me its very ambitious to build in 1/200, all this fiddling and tiniest parts to work. Congrats that you acheived to make a very convincing hull so far. greetings Joachim
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Peter PvG Aussie, I agree to Chapman's post #5, the plan you got is a derivate of the Hoeckel et al. plans. If you wanted to look further into ships of the 16th/17th century it might be worthwhile to get a copy of this book containing 11 plan pages with 22 drawings of ships of that era plus an article about colours used. FYI some pics of the book I have.
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Phil, thanks again for the hints to have a look to. Maybe that cutters were seen too unimportant at that time to record something pertaining to bells. I will see what I can find further in that question. Joachim
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Hi Phil, thanks for your input which leads me directly to ask: Were bell(s) mounted on 18th century Royal Navy armed cutters (at all) and if so, where mounted around 1760s? On the cutters up to the early 1800s shown in this here built gallery I have not identifed any bell. Were they not a neccessity at least for ocean going vessels of this size for indicating the resp. noon? greetings Joachim
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Looks good, I think serveral thin layers of paint would do the job without cluttering all details. With my cutter hull which I built in clinker fashion with a mere vivible plank thickness of 0.8 mm at each overlap I am not yet decided whether to apply "white stuff" as on the original vessel or leave it natural wood (plum wood) in order to keep the deatils. I guess, I will make a test planking and try to make out the best way to go. Joachim
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Superbe build, congratulations! The painting is really striking and the flag making tutorial is a great help. Thanks a lot and good luck for your U-Boat project. Joachim
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This is a very challenging task, especially with view on the hull shapes and tumblehome differing considerably; you are right, Christiania imho is based on French design. As you have researched a good technical basis with a lot of original drawings it will be interesting to see how much the kit conversion will speed up your built compared to a complete built from scratch. Good luck and I`'ll follow with keen curiosity. Joachim
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L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
cotrecerf replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Wow, you think of everything, Bravo. I haven't seen these before on a shipmodel. -
L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
cotrecerf replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
hi Marsalv, excellent framing, Chapeau! But what are the tiny black squares (holes?) for which appear between the frame ends and the setting grooves of the keel? Joachim -
Hello Valeriy, I recall having looked closely to your electro-forming excursus in your Varyag build log. Apparently in missed the other topic. Thank you very much for your lead. Joachim
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Hey Valeriy, super good look of the items. Especially the rudder being a quite massive part, looks very convincing. Could you achieve these results with your "hobby equipent" or did you use industrial facilities? If achievable by hobby equipment, would you be willing to share your production secrets of nickel plating with us and describe the process? I'm always keen on learning from masters. best greetings Joachim
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Hello Mark, thank you very much. I now understand the the inventory in some details much better avoiding any ambiguiance in the block matter. The pic helps too. I haven't been aware of the Kite's rigging warrant. I guess it can be found via NMM's homepage. Have a nice weekend Joachim
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Hello Mark, thank you very much for your detailed answer, very helpful for me! So, there is no general difference between a Quarter block and a QuarterED block ? All the best Joachim
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Gentlemen, thanks for your efforts so far. I've transduced that original Sherbourne Inventory into a xls-sheet showing in the end all measurements in metric in my preferred scale 1:50. Yet there still remains my need for illustrations or descriptions of a quartered block as mentioned in the inventory. Best regards Joachim Sherbourne 1763 Mast Rahen Rigging Blocks.xlsx
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Ferrus Manus = Ironhand, thanks for your action towards Isaiah, now I understand. Hopefully he can shed some light onto the matter. Thanks again. greetings Joachim
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Ferrus Manus, thanks a lot for your answer. Alas, I don't seem to be a good checker as I have not found any enlightening answers to my block questions under Isaiah's content. He is working on Sherbourne but now busy with planking. best regards Joachim
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Thukydides, many thanks for your input, whioch gave me some ideas of what the blocks might look like. I'll keep on searching for quartered block to know for sure. That's part of the fascination of our hobby, that there always pops up a new topic to looking closer into. I'll post the results, if any. Best regards Joachim
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Help needed: I am about to start making blocks for my af Chapman English Cutter and due to the lack of original block dimensions given for this special cutter I make use of the rigging list for Sherbourne 1763 (same period): There I find some blocks noted which are absolutely unknown to me so far: block, single, QUARTERED?? and block, single, ironbound, iron, PINED?? and block, double, brass, COAKED?? For the 2 latter ones I assume the sheave is either Iron or Brass and coaked seems to be brass rods inserted in the sheave to act like a ball bearing in connection with the brass sheave. If someone has got a description and favourably some drawings of pics, these ar most welcome. Thanks in advance for your expert help. Joachim
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Hello Ralf, welcome to the crew of MSW. I live in the northern Part of Rhineland-Palatinate (Trans-Rhenum) and love to be in the area from Neustadt to Herxheim. Best Greetings and "Alla Gut" Joachim
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Micha, best wishes to you. Not knowing what exactly is your severe shoulder problem I can say from my own experience that surgery might not be the best solution. My experience is that nowadays the medical system goes to surgery immediately denying any alternative "conservative" treatment by e.g. physiotherapy. In my case it took some time but my injured left shoulder performs now much better after that therapy than my right one in "natural" status. Of course I'm not a doctor knowitall. Maybe it's better to think twice before surgery., no offence meant! In any case, good luck. greetings Joachim
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Hello eapjr,
you have build a very attractive model. ....but something is puzzling me: how is the rudder hung to the stem when the pintles are not lying on top of the gudgeons? Greetings Joachim
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Hi Ron, I've only just now stumbled upon your build log; to express my admiration in words: excellent skills, super photos, textual explanations to the very point. I'm amazed and I'll follow this build from today on Thank you ever so much. Greetings Joachim
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you achieved very good results although working on some wood parts (judging from the pics) seem to be quite of poor quality (like cigar box soft wood) must have been very difficult...... A nice boat! greetings Joachim
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Hello Thukydides, thanks for your metriculous work; the sizes given for the breechings in your summarizing table are given in inches of circumference, aren't they? greetings Joachim
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