cotrecerf
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Everything posted by cotrecerf
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Ferrus Manus = Ironhand, thanks for your action towards Isaiah, now I understand. Hopefully he can shed some light onto the matter. Thanks again. greetings Joachim
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Ferrus Manus, thanks a lot for your answer. Alas, I don't seem to be a good checker as I have not found any enlightening answers to my block questions under Isaiah's content. He is working on Sherbourne but now busy with planking. best regards Joachim
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Thukydides, many thanks for your input, whioch gave me some ideas of what the blocks might look like. I'll keep on searching for quartered block to know for sure. That's part of the fascination of our hobby, that there always pops up a new topic to looking closer into. I'll post the results, if any. Best regards Joachim
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Help needed: I am about to start making blocks for my af Chapman English Cutter and due to the lack of original block dimensions given for this special cutter I make use of the rigging list for Sherbourne 1763 (same period): There I find some blocks noted which are absolutely unknown to me so far: block, single, QUARTERED?? and block, single, ironbound, iron, PINED?? and block, double, brass, COAKED?? For the 2 latter ones I assume the sheave is either Iron or Brass and coaked seems to be brass rods inserted in the sheave to act like a ball bearing in connection with the brass sheave. If someone has got a description and favourably some drawings of pics, these ar most welcome. Thanks in advance for your expert help. Joachim
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Hello Ralf, welcome to the crew of MSW. I live in the northern Part of Rhineland-Palatinate (Trans-Rhenum) and love to be in the area from Neustadt to Herxheim. Best Greetings and "Alla Gut" Joachim
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Micha, best wishes to you. Not knowing what exactly is your severe shoulder problem I can say from my own experience that surgery might not be the best solution. My experience is that nowadays the medical system goes to surgery immediately denying any alternative "conservative" treatment by e.g. physiotherapy. In my case it took some time but my injured left shoulder performs now much better after that therapy than my right one in "natural" status. Of course I'm not a doctor knowitall. Maybe it's better to think twice before surgery., no offence meant! In any case, good luck. greetings Joachim -
Hello eapjr,
you have build a very attractive model. ....but something is puzzling me: how is the rudder hung to the stem when the pintles are not lying on top of the gudgeons? Greetings Joachim
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Hi Ron, I've only just now stumbled upon your build log; to express my admiration in words: excellent skills, super photos, textual explanations to the very point. I'm amazed and I'll follow this build from today on Thank you ever so much. Greetings Joachim
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you achieved very good results although working on some wood parts (judging from the pics) seem to be quite of poor quality (like cigar box soft wood) must have been very difficult...... A nice boat! greetings Joachim
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Hello Thukydides, thanks for your metriculous work; the sizes given for the breechings in your summarizing table are given in inches of circumference, aren't they? greetings Joachim
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Micha, you might have a look here on tons of figurines ( for Vikings you need to adapt to style): https://www.ebay.de/str/3drifter 3D-printed figurines on printing supports, unpainted greetings Joachim
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Mirabelle, thnaks for the pics. Interesting combination of anchor gears. I apologize for not having considered that as an expert you did your thorough study of all details of the vessel well before the actual build....kudos again. ;-)) Greeting Joachim
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Hey MIrabelle, very nice work on the ship and good looking smushroom anchor. In case you show (part of) the anchor chain, should it have stud links though? best regards and enjoy a sunny weekend in Glinde Joachim
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- Feuerschiff Elbe 1
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Hello George, I cannot contribute to your question of how the bowsprit was fitted to the stem resp. deck, but the pic here shows the dimensions of the bowsprit and other spars of the Bermuda sloop on plan LVII of af Chapman`s Architectura Navalis Mercatoria of 1763. The scale is given in Swedish, English and French feet. Maybe you are able to find the complete illustrated build log of a Bermuda sloop issued in Ships in Scale, if I remember right. Good luck Greetings
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I envy you your ample preesentation space for your superb models and the new workshop accommodating all your machines and tooling in one space and on the same level. Congratualations! salutazioni cordiali Joachim
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Christiano, I didn't mean to infringe on your artistic freedom in any way...of course follow your ideas! You're the master of your own ship.. Greetings Joachim
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Hello Cristiano, I refer to Allyaned's question, whether the hardware on hulls such as rudder pintles horseshoe brackets etc. were painted with white stuff as the hull was. Imho, these metal parts were always installed before the hull was payed with some stuff and nobody took the trouble of e.g. covering the metal parts or working meticulously not to touch the original colour of the parts or applying a layer of black on them later. These ships were fighting ships and nobody would waste time and effort in achieving "showlike" condition on parts below the water line.. Salutazioni Joachim
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Hello David, I have an ongoing POB scratch building project of the af Chapman English cutter based on af Chapman's plan. There I first cut the bulkheads without any bevel and placed then on their individual position according to plan with one face exactly meeting the line. From the 0 bulkhead the thickness of each bulkhead points forward to the bow resp. backwards to the stem. It is important to colour the true edge of each bulkhead and keep it untouched while sanding down to smooth the hull. Greetings Joachim
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Keep Brass Shiny
cotrecerf replied to SilversaxMan's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Hello SilversaxMan, to keep brass shiny (after polishing and degreasing) apply ZAPON-lacquer either by spraying or dipping. It is quite thin fluid and so does not build up too heavily. Have a look at Wikipedia: Zaponlack Zaponlacke sind dünnflüssige, transparente Nitrolacke auf der Basis hochviskoser Cellulosenitrate (Kollodiumwolle), die in leicht flüchtigen Lösungsmitteln wie Amylacetat, Ethanol und Ethylacetat gelöst sind. Sie sind meist farblos, können aber auch Farbstoffe enthalten.[1] Sie dienen meist zum Oxidationsschutz (als Schutz gegen Anlaufen) von Metallen wie Messing, Bronze oder Silber. Zaponlacke sind ungeeignet für die Anwendung bei Eisen oder Stahl, da sie keine rostschützende Wirkung haben. Sie dienen daneben als Firnis sowie zum Lackieren von Holz, Glas und Leder. Der Vorgang des Behandelns mit Zaponlack wird zaponieren genannt. Zaponlacke können gesundheitsschädlich wirken und sind meistens leicht entzündlich. Ein ähnliches Produkt ist Nagellack. Sorry, no translation available. greetings and a happy year 2024 to you Joachim -
Hi Valeriy, may only fhe sound of popping champagne accompany your days in 2024! All the best to you. Joachim
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The white stuff question is troubling me too. Here's a paint and colour recommendation I've just found: JoTiKa Ltd. ~ Admiralty Paints, Matt White. (jotika-ltd.com) Looking at the original ship paintings shown above, I do not go for the yellowish hue of Vallejo RAL 9001 out of the bottle but give it a definite light white cream colour. But as said above, there is no reliable original and it's up to the modeller's eye. Joachim
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As for the rivetting: I came across the following on youtube in a very informative channel Blondiehacks where she shows the making of a tool for producing uniform rivetting on items of a steam locomotive:
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Never mind, it gives a good clue to the actual size of your superb model. Carry on! gretings Joachim
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Valeriy, deep admiration,....as was not else to be expected viewing your work! Joachim
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This is what I bought from dictum.com a couple of years ago: www.dictum.com/de/europaeische-hoelzer-caa ;www.dictum.com/de/europaeische-hoelzer-caa/buchsbaum-sortiment-4-5-kg-520038 Present price offer: 54.00 € for 4.5 kg incl. VAT assortment of European Boxwood ; Buchsbaum-Sortiment, 4,5 kg. The rectangular piecves are like pen blanks and the wood chunks are not in the right dimensions for very large (long) parts as one-piece, but to make e.g. carved decorations for scale 1:48 or 1:50 it's fully ok. I do not know about shipment cost to the USA best regards Joachim
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